The KX models have what almost looks like a chunk of styrofoam on top of it, tweezer that out and there's a screw holding a small plastic piece with the usb board glued into it.
Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread
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I doubt that the TC version of the Infinite flasks have the same breakout board as the regular wattage model. The DNA30 used a common ground for the buttons, the DNA40 has a dedicated ground for each button, and the various ChiNA40 clones have copied this as well.
I have a kangxin vf v3 Clone. The brass 510 is a nightmare... My friend change for FD v3 but we dont have a short version, so take a nut under the top, and put a plastic piece top of the positive battery post, under the 510 positive post. Its work, but When we attach a longer center pin atty, it was fire automatically cause the positive battery and the 510 positive post reach each other. We make a harder plastic piece betwen the 2 positive piece. And now i attach any kind of atty the mod sais atomizer open... Every button works + - but its not fire. We check the soldering on the 510, and everything good. Maybe something burn on the board?
Don't let that hex looking "nut" fool you, on mine the hex "nut" had no threading in it, it's just press fit on the brass section that does have threads to screw into the blue plastic thingy. So I guess when I cranked it down, I loosened the "nut" and it came right off. (bad design or user error.... Could go either way I guess) I would suggest "sweating" it with solder... Hold it with a pliers, heat the "nut" (I used my soldering iron), and touch the solder to the nut and let it flow into the gap but not on the threads that way it still threads into the blue retaining plastic thingy. [emoji106]
Really. I should have just pulled up on that thing... But I didn't have a small enough 1a charger anyway. Did the KX model have a 1a charger? (please say yes)
If I'm understanding you..... The 510 shorted on the positive of the battery, and now doesn't read an atty? I would think any failure or error after a short means a problem with the chip.... Sorry.
of course I could be wrong.
That makes sense. The RAYN board is even similar to the dna40 layout. Solder pads and stuff. I still don't know what function that battery board does?
You know... Even at 400ma per battery, that's faster than the Nitecore charger.... Which I think is 375ma per slot (I think)
If I'm understanding you..... The 510 shorted on the positive of the battery, and now doesn't read an atty? I would think any failure or error after a short means a problem with the chip.... Sorry.
sorry for my bad english, but u undestand
my friend how change a 510, made(build) a several mod, and he cant imagine this little "short" which was between the 510 and the battery could kill the board/chip or something. tomorrow i go to the service, and i hope he can dig out the board from the hot glue cemetery unfortunetly i cant find a kx-40D board on the net... but if the board came out we will clever whic parts burned... :S
You might check the 510 connection itself. Maybe the short jarred something at one of the connection points of the 510 or the center pin.sorry for my bad english, but u undestand
(and yeah, hot glue cemetery sounds spooky and hilarious at the same time)
The boards are sold under another name...Evolv DNA 40Dsorry for my bad english, but u undestand
I don't think it's more than 500 ma. but not sure.
What was I thinking? I'm going back to bed, it's too early for me to get up, no coffee yet.
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So I got to thinking about those pictures of Willie's Rayn board and sure enough it says v3 while Phone Guy's clearly says v4 (got coffee)
I fixed the battery drain issue on my kanxin today... I capped off the one battery connection and soldered a bridge from one positive to the other.... risky I know but, its working... I didn't kill it couple hours from now i'll check each batt with a volt meter and see if they are draining evenly. in theory they should be now, I think lol
but, its working... I didn't kill it couple hours from now i'll check each batt with a volt meter and see if they are draining evenly. in theory they should be now, I think lol
I have to take a little break here and think what I'm doing. I seem to have taken an interest in putting one of my Evolv boards back into my empty Cana box. I just cleaned it up and it's ready. I have got to think on this, I really don't like Hana style boxes that much but it's sitting here looking at me.
@TheBloke
Have you tested SS wire on your new toy? If you haven`t, but want to test it, you should use thicker wire - sth like awg24 304 SS 12x3mm. This works on my Hcigar but the Waidea switches back to VW mode. I hope it will work perfect, if you use the Nickel Purity setting at 10.
Btw.: There is an interesting new wire. Resitherm NiFe30 ( Fe 30%, Mn 0,5%, Al 0,6%, Cr 0,3%, Ni balance ). The resistance is 3,67 times higher than Ni200 and the temperature coefficient is a bit higher than the half of Ni200. And it is easier to build and rewick. The new Pipeline Pro V2 has been optimized for this wire. But 13€ is a bit high for 10m
Dicodes Wire Resistherm (NiFe30) für den PIPELINE PRO 2 - für eZigaretten
http://www.abcpol.pl/download/druty-oporowe/9-resistherm.pdf
sorry, german only
Have you tested SS wire on your new toy? If you haven`t, but want to test it, you should use thicker wire - sth like awg24 304 SS 12x3mm. This works on my Hcigar but the Waidea switches back to VW mode. I hope it will work perfect, if you use the Nickel Purity setting at 10.
Btw.: There is an interesting new wire. Resitherm NiFe30 ( Fe 30%, Mn 0,5%, Al 0,6%, Cr 0,3%, Ni balance ). The resistance is 3,67 times higher than Ni200 and the temperature coefficient is a bit higher than the half of Ni200. And it is easier to build and rewick. The new Pipeline Pro V2 has been optimized for this wire. But 13€ is a bit high for 10m
Dicodes Wire Resistherm (NiFe30) für den PIPELINE PRO 2 - für eZigaretten
http://www.abcpol.pl/download/druty-oporowe/9-resistherm.pdf
sorry, german only
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