Can you take a picture from the other side of the board?
is that good?Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread
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is that good?
I might look around for the hana/cana kit with th sled and wires etc. I don't think there that expensive. Just so the board don't collect dust. There is a site that is selling the Rayn V4 board. There just out of stock at the moment. Emailed them and they said sometime in the next few weeks they should have them in.
I
(I don't know why anyone would buy a VS rDNA with screen on the bottom, but apparently people do
lol. Just ordered one!!
D40 (DNA40 Clone 40W Temperature Protection Module, Support .1ohm Coil) I was looking a few days ago noticed they had the Rayn V3 for $31.99. It was out of stock so I emailed them - sales@desire-ecig.com and was told a few weeks they'll be available. I would take that response with a grain of salt. Who knows. Hope this helps you guys out.
I ordered the $104 VS DNA 40 with a shark skin last Thursday. Should be here tomorrow. Yay!! I'll get to have my very own glitching DNA 40! LOL I don't care if it glitches. I hear the screen glitch doesn't affect the performance.lol. Just ordered one!!
lol. Just ordered one!!
Fair enough
I didn't realise they were so much smaller than the Zero, and yes I guess battery changing is more of an issue on a single battery mod.The price is especially good too.
That could be some sort of diode you burned out when the hard short happened. Maybe try desoldering it from the board, solder in a tiny little jumper in place of it and see if the board will come to life again. Worth a shot. Maybe that tiny little diode(this is purely a guess) sacrificed itself instead of the entire board frying.
The 2L0 component is a 2mOhm current sensing resistor. I think if you short a jumper across its terminals the regulator will try to pump all the current it can in order to get the same voltage drop reading across the jumper as it would if the resistor was there. That might not be good.
Hmm...the jumper idea might work though if you can get a piece of wire that measures out to 2mOhm. Problem is that copper changes its resistance hugely as it heats up. So you'll need a large enough piece of wire to not heat up, at all, and that will probably be too big to fit in there.
@Thorpapa, can you measure the size of that resistor? I might be able to send you a replacement.
[edit] Oops, might be wayyy too expensive to send a 7-cent resistor to Budapest though.
@Thorpapa, can you measure the size of that resistor? I might be able to send you a replacement.
[edit] Oops, might be wayyy too expensive to send a 7-cent resistor to Budapest though.
LOL, someone who knows their stuff. Maybe don't try what I said Thorpapa. mooch obviously knows circuitry better than me. Thanks for helping out mooch.The 2L0 component is a 2mOhm current sensing resistor. I think if you short a jumper across its terminals the regulator will try to pump all the current it can in order to get the same voltage drop reading across the jumper as it would if the resistor was there. That might not be good.
I thought it could be a diode too until I checked out the photo closely. They often use diodes to force a fuse to blow (for reverse polarity protection) and if the diode is not spec'ed carefully it can also blow even if there's no reverse polarity.
I just checked the one on my v3 non working board and it was open. So I checked an Evolv board (appears same) and it was closed. it's not a diode.
Ohms reading on the one on the Evolv board was zero.
Ohms reading on the one on the Evolv board was zero.
That's the Rayn board? It's a pretty good bet, but is it confirmed do you know? ie that it's not yet another new one.
EDIT: Duh, sorry, it says right there on the board that it's Rayn. I wasn't zoomed in enough. It's the v3, not the v4 - did we ever work out the difference? v4 doesn't say TP perhaps, where v3 does?
Interesting, the data sheet says the welcome message is "Hollo!"
I wonder if it actually says Hollo or if that's just Chiglish for "it will give a welcome message" which might be DNA 40 or so.
I thought diode cause of the color and position on the board in relation to the atty out pin. I recently back fed positive voltage into the atty out wire on a DNA 40 that was goin/ into my flask clone. Board is at evolv for repairs/replacement and the flask is in a zip lock bag in pieces.
http://rohmfs.rohm.com/en/products/databook/datasheet/passive/resistor/chip_resistor/pml.pdf As close as I could come to ID
The Ryan V4 board that came out of my silver VF flashed "temperature protection". I'm guessing that some flasks maybe had firmware glitches and did not flash the TP message?That's the Rayn board? It's a pretty good bet, but is it confirmed do you know? ie that it's not yet another new one.
EDIT: Duh, sorry, it says right there on the board that it's Rayn. I wasn't zoomed in enough. It's the v3, not the v4 - did we ever work out the difference? v4 doesn't say TP perhaps, where v3 does?
Interesting, the data sheet says the welcome message is "Hollo!"
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