ok, so there isn't a problem with the older kx 40 boards? just wanna be sure before i cancel my order with focal...
Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread
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Try the local one with a Ni200 build if possible and check what Croak suggested before cancelling the FC order. I wish I could find a unit in Toronto area for $50 lol
Then you haven't read the rules lately. Suppliers have numerous restrictions about where (and what) they can post.
There are differnet standards in place depending on a poster's affiliation (see above). Enforcing those standards is dependent on people being honest about who they are, what they represent and/or whom they are associated with.
question for people who recieved theirs already:
what kind of NI200 AWG do you use? I was about to order a vapemail and realized that i didn't know what kind of wire to get. Steam engine says I need 18 wraps AWG 29 (0.3mm dualcoil) wire to get the 0.16 ohm for the chip to function. does it actually start working from .16 or can i wrap at .1+?
what kind of NI200 AWG do you use? I was about to order a vapemail and realized that i didn't know what kind of wire to get. Steam engine says I need 18 wraps AWG 29 (0.3mm dualcoil) wire to get the 0.16 ohm for the chip to function. does it actually start working from .16 or can i wrap at .1+?
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I am using 28 and wrapping ten to get .15 now and it vapes great. I would rather use some 30 if I can some. Mine vapes fine at .09.
Yep you are right the supplier forum is different than the general forum.. the general forum was what I was referencing....you want to parse words....I haven't posted in the supplier forum in years (best I remember)......
as for your second quote response I have no clue what affiliations and etc you speak of... please be more specific with your accusations and personal attacks...who is it that you say is not being honest about who they are and what their affiliation is....
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18 wraps sounds too much. What coil id? It's not uncommon 2.5mm and up especially with ni builds.
I get 0.14 with 10 wraps of 28 Awg on a 2.5mm bit (spaced).
I like stealthvape's hardened ni but probably just a personal preference. The hardened is stiffer than kanthal.
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
I get 0.14 with 10 wraps of 28 Awg on a 2.5mm bit (spaced).
I like stealthvape's hardened ni but probably just a personal preference. The hardened is stiffer than kanthal.
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
It's the same way with pints of beer, ours are smaller so we have to drink more of them.
As far as I know, there are only two types of resistance: one is measured in Ohms and the other in Time that one takes to face and embrace my superiority
None of them can be called metric as far as I know
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
None of them can be called metric as far as I know
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
sry I edited my post afterwards. I was talking about dual coil builds so it effectively doubles the number of wraps which is around 18-20,
edit: and ohms are SI measurements it's the same value everywhere in the world so we don't have to talk about metric or not
We are just messing around, don't worry.
I was told a few times that I'm no expert in a few things but I think dual coils and TC is going to be a little hard.
Both coils need to be absolutely equal and wicked the exactly the same way and even then... Remember that the board reads the average resistance of the coil to estimate a temperature. It's bad enough with only one coil. Two would double the margin of error.
But that's just how I see it. I'm probably wrong
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
I was told a few times that I'm no expert in a few things but I think dual coils and TC is going to be a little hard.
Both coils need to be absolutely equal and wicked the exactly the same way and even then... Remember that the board reads the average resistance of the coil to estimate a temperature. It's bad enough with only one coil. Two would double the margin of error.
But that's just how I see it. I'm probably wrong
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
They have changed the wording on 3fvape for both #2834/2806. Where as before it said you have to adjust you're atomizer to make a connection. Now just states non spring loaded. But in the specs further down it say fixed pin?
You only said "free to post wherever they want". I apologize I didn't get that you meant 'wherever they want (in the general forum)'. Although I believe the supplier restrictions are applicable to the general forum as well so I am not sure that distinction is relevant to my statement.
I never made any claims about your posting habits, Not sure why you are bringing that up.
I was referring to business affiliations (since the context was posters who have a financial interest in what they post)
I don't understand why you are being so defensive about this. I tried to correct a statement you made about the rules of this forum, nothing more. I did not attack anyone personally and there are no accusations in my post.
So I've been messing around with a Kayfun V4 clone, and just for ....s and giggles I decided to do a tootle-puffer build, put the stock 2.2mm airflow tube back in, then wrapped a 2.5mm 2.0 ohm Kanthal coil. It ended up being 2.09 ohms, my fault because I used all four screws on the deck and that gave the coil extra long legs.
Worked fine on my Cloupor Mini at 10-14 watts. Well, it worked, but it's a crappy vape. Not for me, too cool, too restrictive. Luckily, with the 2.7mm 4S kit installed, it's tolerable airflow, and about the same flavor with a sub-ohm build.
Anyway, when I moved it over to my K-Flask, it read the ohms correctly, 2.08 to 2.11, but every time I went to fire it, I got an "ohms too high" message. It fired ok, and it felt like it was putting out close to the watts I asked for, but flashed that message.
Long story short, the programming seems spot on, since it's rated at 2.0 ohms max, and soft-limits just like you- know who's board does.
Worked fine on my Cloupor Mini at 10-14 watts. Well, it worked, but it's a crappy vape. Not for me, too cool, too restrictive. Luckily, with the 2.7mm 4S kit installed, it's tolerable airflow, and about the same flavor with a sub-ohm build.
Anyway, when I moved it over to my K-Flask, it read the ohms correctly, 2.08 to 2.11, but every time I went to fire it, I got an "ohms too high" message. It fired ok, and it felt like it was putting out close to the watts I asked for, but flashed that message.
Long story short, the programming seems spot on, since it's rated at 2.0 ohms max, and soft-limits just like you- know who's board does.
I also mentioned an emotional investment. And for the Evolv beta crew (or at least the ones that post here regular, two in particular that I've dubbed the "Beta Justice Warriors") there's a question of propriety. Can they tell it like it is? Or are they cheerleading so they can insure they keep getting the new toys from Evolv and their partners first?
You only need to ask each beta tester those questions concerning their personal motivations as I cannot answer for them.. (there are over 30 of them).... my answer is YES and NO...if I wanted to follow this line of questioning and scrutiny I could ask a few questions also for you and a few others but not gonna as it serves no relevant positive purpose for me (what I call a VIRUS being spread throughout the Temperature Control Sub-forum)...which detracts from what really should be of interest to those coming to the Temperature Control Sub-forum....
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