You forgot plumb [emoji1]I have mechanical OCD , Square , level, flush , parallel is a must. I kind of like cosmetic wear and tear on things, If i havnt used it enough to wear then i havnt had enough use out of it and that annoys me too.![]()
You forgot plumb [emoji1]I have mechanical OCD , Square , level, flush , parallel is a must. I kind of like cosmetic wear and tear on things, If i havnt used it enough to wear then i havnt had enough use out of it and that annoys me too.![]()
I actually sanded down the connection on my authentic omega to make it sit flush on the flask.
Hees....what is up with your luck? I now have two DNA40 devices and a third on the way....not one garble. Are you showering with it?
Sorry about your luck Hees, Do you know if it's one of the more recent boards? Does it have the Celsius option?
I will repeat one here just to see if anyone else has encountered it. I have approx. 0.22 ohm 30 Ga. coil on it. When I put it on cold it reads ~0.26 and over time inches up to about 0.35 ohms. Now here is the strange part the Vapor production and "Cruise Control" temp stays right around 350 - 380 (TP @ 450). Now what is with that? IMHO that shouldn't be possible.
The only thing that is bothering me is that the light on the charging port does not turn green, it stays red even when I know the batteries are done charging. I'm using a brand new pair of LG HE2's that were charged on a Pila before going into the Flask. Is this a know issue with the Flask? I don't really care about the light not changing as long as the Flask is not overcharging my batteries. Sorry if this has already been covered but I'm late the the Flask party and don't have time to read this entire thread.
The charging port on all of mine turns green when the batteries are fully charged. You've got a bad USB board.
I actually sanded down the connection on my authentic omega to make it sit flush on the flask.
Great!!! And I thought I had avoided all of the QC issues with my Flask. Guess I was wrong... I'll shoot them an email and go from there. At least I found this out while the Flask is still new. Unfortunately, the darn thing fits my hand so well I really don't want to part with it for any length of time. Thanks for letting me know what's up.
How long has it been charging? Did you try different batteries? If they aren't matched batteries it can read one not fully charged
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
They are a pair of brand new LG HE2s that were charged on a Pila before going into the Flask. At one point, they were charged for about 7 hours with the Flask showing about 75% charge before being plugged in and still the light was red when I woke up in the morning. At this point the battery indicator was full.
Last night was the first time I took these batteries out of the Flask since I got it/them two weeks ago. Batteries were charged to 4.2 volts on the Pila, left to rest for 30 minutes and put back in the Flask. I then plugged in the charge cable which turned on the red charge light. I was hoping it would have been green after externally charging the batteries.
Some batteries also need to cycle a few times to truly reach full charge... Try putting a single fully charged older battery in it (the flask will run with one battery in it) and see if you get a green light
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I picked up my VF on the post office yesterday. I was rather worried when I put the batteries in, but there have been zero glitches running in TP mode (knock on wood).
The screen is straight. The USB is wobbly, but not as wobbly as I had expected. It seems to work just fine. Initially the buttons were even, and I thought "hah, supposed to be uneven my backside". But after a couple of hours of use, the upper button sank in a bit. Oh well.
The threads are OK, not silky smooth, but not exactly bad either. The screws on top seem to be a bit off center, but whatever. It doesn't bother me.
So far I'm happy with it.
Good idea I'll try that. Of course the question is do I have any old batteries that will actually fit in the Flask? Maybe my MNKEs, but all of my other batteries are AW or Panasonic button top; I only started buying vape gear after a year off because of all this cool new tech so all my old batteries are as old school as the rest of my gear.
When charging your Flask does the battery indicator change real time as it's charging? Mine does not; the battery indicator only changes after I unplug the charging cord.
No the battery level will change after u fire it
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks. That's how my Flask behaves.
I'll have to do some experimenting with an older battery when I get home from work to see if I can get that green light to come on.
I'm sure it's my "lack of building skills" but I think I'm pretty much done eff'ing with TC mode.
Way too much frustration for me
Maybe I'll mess with it again when the technology gets a little better...Ok, who am I kidding? After this I don't think I will be buying any more regulated mods period.
Yeah I know people are having success but way too many aren't for this to be ready for mainstream.
Tore out the last of many, many Ni200 failures, slapped in a 1.1 kanthal micro coil and am happily vaping away on Death by Chocolate
I'm still happy with the Flask, I just have come to HATE TC.
Haha! No freakin kidding!It's not Temperature mode; it's "Tempermental Mode"!!!![]()
I don't really have a variety of atty's to mess with. I have 5 Spheroids and a Heron...that's it. I highly doubt the Spheroid will work well since it's such a confined area and retains heat and the Heron hasn't worked so well for me either.I am pulling my hair out too with TP. If I build anything below like .14, then it hits TP almost instantaneously. I have to keep my nickel builds up around 1.8ish for it to work properly.
The Lemo is the only atty I have that's successfully vaping nickel right now. I tried it in my Squape R and my Hobo RDA, and both attys hit TP way too quickly......think I am just going to slap a Kanthal build back into the Squape......
I will continue to mess around with it some more, but it's definitely tempermental.....you REALLY have to be on the ball with your coil wrapping for it to work properly.......