Vapor Flask

[brickfollett]

I have through this entire thread, and I'm glad I waited so long to order a DNA40 device. I ordered the Flask in the "clear option from vaperev the other day, and it's scheduled to show up tomorrow. Because of this thread, I know what to look for and what to expect, so thanks all. I did note that while it seems like lots of people are having trouble, most of these pages are posts from just a handful of authors, who continue to post throughout the entirety of the thread. While I know its true that the people who have trouble with it will be the ones who are going to speak out more frequently, I'm glad that the information is there.

I intend to primarily use titanium wire, depending on how well it does with my setups, but have 28, 30 and 32 gauge nickel already. First test will be with my Kanger subtank rebuildable deck, which I built a 15 wrap or so 30 gauge ni200 coil and wicked up with koh gen do. I have a kayfun 4 and a fogger v6 that I plan on playing with as well. Fogger v6 will probably be challenging being a dual coil, but we'll see how it goes. Overall I'm excited.

I did note on this thread that late December and throughout january, most people who received their flasks had no issues with them, so that makes me feel better. It would appear that most of the kinks have been worked out and Vaporflask is able to focus on production units more so now. Fingers crossed...

I'm also happy that I'll most likely be receiving the most recent board too. 6 month warranty makes me feel safe with all this, and I have my mechs and my reo's as backups

 

[HolmanGT]

I have through this entire thread, and I'm glad I waited so long to order a DNA40 device. I ordered the Flask in the "clear option from vaperev the other day, and it's scheduled to show up tomorrow. Because of this thread, I know what to look for and what to expect, so thanks all. I did note that while it seems like lots of people are having trouble, most of these pages are posts from just a handful of authors, who continue to post throughout the entirety of the thread. While I know its true that the people who have trouble with it will be the ones who are going to speak out more frequently, I'm glad that the information is there.

I intend to primarily use titanium wire, depending on how well it does with my setups, but have 28, 30 and 32 gauge nickel already. First test will be with my Kanger subtank rebuildable deck, which I built a 15 wrap or so 30 gauge ni200 coil and wicked up with koh gen do. I have a kayfun 4 and a fogger v6 that I plan on playing with as well. Fogger v6 will probably be challenging being a dual coil, but we'll see how it goes. Overall I'm excited.

I did note on this thread that late December and throughout january, most people who received their flasks had no issues with them, so that makes me feel better. It would appear that most of the kinks have been worked out and Vaporflask is able to focus on production units more so now. Fingers crossed...

I'm also happy that I'll most likely be receiving the most recent board too. 6 month warranty makes me feel safe with all this, and I have my mechs and my reo's as backups

brickfollett,

Even in the heyday of problems I never ever heard anyone say that they had any problems getting a replacement (or three).

By the way on the titanium wire are you aware you can buy tempered Ni200 from Stealth Vapor and that stuff is tougher than Kanthal. I pulled off a turn or two from the spool let go and it snapped back stuck me in the hand drawing blood. If I had done that with annealed Ni200 it would have hit the tabletop like limp spaghetti.

 

[brickfollett]

I'll have to pick some up. How is the price on that? Can't wait till tomorrow lol

 

[HolmanGT]

I'll have to pick some up. How is the price on that? Can't wait till tomorrow lol

Well Brickfollett,

I am embarrassed to say I really don't know its in British Pounds but I think the last time I calculated it that the price was about the same as Lightening Vape only you get 75' instead of 100'.

I bought 28, and 32 from them and their 30 gauge is out of stock but due in at the first of next week. He has other sizes also but take a look at his site.

Nickel ni200 DNA40 Wire

 

[Pocha]

If I remember correctly it was around $10 shipped for 25m tempered (to california).

 

[puffon]

I'll have to pick some up. How is the price on that? Can't wait till tomorrow lol

I got 2 rolls of 28awg, 25m, for $18.02 shipped.(no tracking shipping)
Took about 6 days.

 

[brickfollett]

I got 2 rolls of 28awg, 25m, for $18.02 shipped.(no tracking shipping)
Took about 6 days.

Spendy stuff lol, I'll try standard NI200 and experiment with the titanium. If I'm not able to get a handle on that, I'll pick up some tempered, which, knowing me, I will anyway lol. Question for all of you:

My flask is showing up tomorrow, and a set of samsung 25R batteries is scheduled to arrive as well. I didn't read the thread before I ordered the flask otherwise I would have purchased HE2's. In the event that either A. My batteries don't arrive alongside the device or B. The batteries don't fit, would it be acceptable for me to run my used VTC5's in the device until a new set of batteries is acquired? Also, is it acceptable to run it with a single battery? I know it can be done, but I don't want to induce any problems by either running mismatched batteries or a single battery. If the 25R's don't fit, I'll try the sanding trick, but I have to be able to play with my new toy lol. I'll post pictures of how it looks (hopefully without defects!)

 

[Croak]

Single battery would be fine in the Flask.

And before you get all worked up on tracking down titanium or tempered nickel, you ought to try a twisted coil with some of that 30 or 32ga Ni200 first, you may be surprised at how much easier/better it is than single strand Ni200 to work with. I gave my 28ga Ni200 to a friend, I prefer to use twisted 30ga (and 30ga is always in stock too).

 

[brickfollett]

Single battery would be fine in the Flask.

And before you get all worked up on tracking down titanium or tempered nickel, you ought to try a twisted coil with some of that 30 or 32ga Ni200 first, you may be surprised at how much easier/better it is than single strand Ni200 to work with. I gave my 28ga Ni200 to a friend, I prefer to use twisted 30ga (and 30ga is always in stock too).

Already have the titanium on the way, it equates to 24 gauge I believe. I plan on twisting some up and doing a lot of experimenting. I wouldn't mind doing one of those kanthal/nickel twist combos too, seems like an interesting experience. The 30 gauge build I prepped for my subtank mini RBA head went pretty well, 15 wrap contact coil for .28 ohms. It's gonna be a heck of a ride, but I've had my eye on the temp protection theory since the DNA40 board was released, just wanted to wait until a lot of the bugs were worked out. Seems like that was a good call after reading this thread and a decent portion of the DNA40 board thread. Gonna be majorly stalking the postman tomorrow lol

 

[jaxgator]

I have through this entire thread, and I'm glad I waited so long to order a DNA40 device. I ordered the Flask in the "clear option from vaperev the other day, and it's scheduled to show up tomorrow. Because of this thread, I know what to look for and what to expect, so thanks all. I did note that while it seems like lots of people are having trouble, most of these pages are posts from just a handful of authors, who continue to post throughout the entirety of the thread. While I know its true that the people who have trouble with it will be the ones who are going to speak out more frequently, I'm glad that the information is there.

I intend to primarily use titanium wire, depending on how well it does with my setups, but have 28, 30 and 32 gauge nickel already. First test will be with my Kanger subtank rebuildable deck, which I built a 15 wrap or so 30 gauge ni200 coil and wicked up with koh gen do. I have a kayfun 4 and a fogger v6 that I plan on playing with as well. Fogger v6 will probably be challenging being a dual coil, but we'll see how it goes. Overall I'm excited.

I did note on this thread that late December and throughout january, most people who received their flasks had no issues with them, so that makes me feel better. It would appear that most of the kinks have been worked out and Vaporflask is able to focus on production units more so now. Fingers crossed...

I'm also happy that I'll most likely be receiving the most recent board too. 6 month warranty makes me feel safe with all this, and I have my mechs and my reo's as backups

I think you're going to be pleasantly surprised with the Flask. It is an awesome device when the board works. The scrambled screen issue has been resolved and as far as I can tell, VF is only using the latest board revision in their Flasks. Absolutely perfect ergonomics.

Re: Titanium wire - Remember that the board is programmed with the known resistance fluctuations of Ni200 and not Ti. For this reason, you need to set your temp lower than you would with nickel. Rossum stated he was running his Ti right around 350F IIRC.

Enjoy your Flask!

 

[jaxgator]

Yesterday's vape mail.

 

[brickfollett]

I think you're going to be pleasantly surprised with the Flask. It is an awesome device when the board works. The scrambled screen issue has been resolved and as far as I can tell, VF is only using the latest board revision in their Flasks. Absolutely perfect ergonomics.

Re: Titanium wire - Remember that the board is programmed with the known resistance fluctuations of Ni200 and not Ti. For this reason, you need to set your temp lower than you would with nickel. Rossum stated he was running his Ti right around 350F IIRC.

Enjoy your Flask!

Yep, I took note of that, thanks for the reminder. It's out for delivery! Will be waiting in my locked mailbox : no signature confirmation required

 

[HolmanGT]

I think you're going to be pleasantly surprised with the Flask. It is an awesome device when the board works. The scrambled screen issue has been resolved and as far as I can tell, VF is only using the latest board revision in their Flasks. Absolutely perfect ergonomics.

Re: Titanium wire - Remember that the board is programmed with the known resistance fluctuations of Ni200 and not Ti. For this reason, you need to set your temp lower than you would with nickel. Rossum stated he was running his Ti right around 350F IIRC.

Enjoy your Flask!

Yep, I took note of that, thanks for the reminder. It's out for delivery! Will be waiting in my locked mailbox : no signature confirmation required

Brick,

Not to beat a dead horse but if you have any 28 Ga Ni200 (and an Atty it will fit in ) give it a try. The softness of Ni200 is not as frustrating with 28 Ga. The only reason I am bugging you about this is that everything in the DNA40 is designed around Ni200 and to right off try some metal that it isn't calibrated for just seem to me to be a great way to end up disappointed.

 

[Ariel_MX]

Hi guys,

a new VF owner here

I really wanted a Black Tie Edition, but in absence of it, I choose a black one.

 

[brickfollett]

Holman I appreciate the feedback and the sound advice. Here's the flask!





Quite a device. I scored a couple VTC5's from a B&M today, which appear to be authentic. I'll also note that the Samsung 25R's fit very nicely as well, no struggle to get in, although the VTC's slide in and out with easy and the Samsungs have a slight hiccup right when first inserted (giggity) then no trouble at all. As you can see the board is perfectly aligned, no chips, and the up and down buttons are near perfectly flush, with the bottom one protruding a fraction of a millimeter. I can feel it but I can barely see it.

Battery caps are nothing to write home about as far as threading goes, to be expected though. I took an earlier posters advice and applied vaseline to the caps to catch stray metal shards, then I'll run Noalox on them following that.

Performance? you betcha.

The build I had ready on the Subtank mini with the 15 wrap contact 30 gauge ni200 was a fail. I fired it in temp control mode at 5 watts and observed one side of the coil light up pretty good, then it smoothed out. Wicked it with koh gen do and it had sort of a nasty burnt taste. I put my K4 on with the 26 gauge kanthal build until I got the motivation to rebuild the subtank.

Second build is a major success. I twisted 30 gauge kanthal and 30 gauge ni200 together and did 9 wraps around 2.5mm bit. Believe it was 9 wraps. I left slight spacing, and to be honest, after wicking there's probably a couple parts that are touching but oh well. It's easy to work with and looks pretty sharp. I didn't snap build pics though, wish I did.

Initially had it set to 410 and watched it reach that mark at 28 watts and noticed a bad taste (burning). I then realized that I have to back off the temp control, so I set it to 370 and it's divine... Very warm vape for sure, and it was handling that at around 22 watts, which is fine with me.

Then I set the flask down for 15 minutes or so, picked it back up again for a vape and it hit temp control almost instantly. Figuring that the resistance settled a bit being that it had time to cool off, I unscrewed the subtank, screwed it back on, selected new coil and its good to go again. I noticed the temp wasn't spiking up to 370 as easy, so I backed it off to 350, and it still hasn't hit the TP mark quite yet. Overall very very satisfied with this thing, and the unorthodox builds I'm doing on it. Working like a dream with twisted kanthal and nickel.

P.S. Think I'm going to pick up a Jwrap for it and spruce it up a little =]

 

[brickfollett]

Hi guys,

a new VF owner here

I really wanted a Black Tie Edition, but in absence of it, I choose a black one.

Somewhat envious of the black... I went with the bare look because I know that in the long run, the finish will show alot less marks, scratches, dings etc. Can people post some pictures of their flask wearing jwraps? I really want one of those patina finishes, but the stone and wood ones look pretty classy as well. Of course, nothing wrong with carbon fiber tough... Little too mainstream for me, although my old mvp2 just looked fantastic with a carbon fiber wrap

 

[Major911]

Here's my VF V1

 

[jaxgator]

Brick,

Not to beat a dead horse but if you have any 28 Ga Ni200 (and an Atty it will fit in ) give it a try. The softness of Ni200 is not as frustrating with 28 Ga. The only reason I am bugging you about this is that everything in the DNA40 is designed around Ni200 and to right off try some metal that it isn't calibrated for just seem to me to be a great way to end up disappointed.

I found twisted 30g worked for me best. Once twisted, the nickel is no longer quite as soft and it's a helluva lot easier to wick without destroying the coil.

Congrats brick!

Quite a device. I scored a couple VTC5's from a B&M today, which appear to be authentic. I'll also note that the Samsung 25R's fit very nicely as well, no struggle to get in, although the VTC's slide in and out with easy and the Samsungs have a slight hiccup right when first inserted (giggity) then no trouble at all. As you can see the board is perfectly aligned, no chips, and the up and down buttons are near perfectly flush, with the bottom one protruding a fraction of a millimeter. I can feel it but I can barely see it.

I have several Flasks and have found that the later versions have had the battery holes widened ever so slightly. I the the VF folks finally realized that it was a rather silly decision to limit the Flask to 2 different makes of batteries.

Battery caps are nothing to write home about as far as threading goes, to be expected though. I took an earlier posters advice and applied vaseline to the caps to catch stray metal shards, then I'll run Noalox on them following that.

Yeah, the battery caps are definitely a bit on the crunchy side. I think it's because it's hard brass into soft aluminum but certainly could be wrong. They definitely get much better with use. ECF member tchavei uses toothpaste and a toothbrush on crunchy threads with great success although I would be fearful of scratching the outside of the Flask using that method.

Performance? you betcha.

The build I had ready on the Subtank mini with the 15 wrap contact 30 gauge ni200 was a fail. I fired it in temp control mode at 5 watts and observed one side of the coil light up pretty good, then it smoothed out. Wicked it with koh gen do and it had sort of a nasty burnt taste. I put my K4 on with the 26 gauge kanthal build until I got the motivation to rebuild the subtank.

Second build is a major success. I twisted 30 gauge kanthal and 30 gauge ni200 together and did 9 wraps around 2.5mm bit. Believe it was 9 wraps. I left slight spacing, and to be honest, after wicking there's probably a couple parts that are touching but oh well. It's easy to work with and looks pretty sharp. I didn't snap build pics though, wish I did.

Initially when I started building for the DNA40, I used 30g contact coils but didn't dry fire them as I had heard that's not very good to do. I kept getting pretty nasty hits (hot coils/legs). Then I tried dry firing 30g contact coils at 10w with TP off. This worked better but I ended up getting black gunk leeching into the tank before I had vaped even a half of the first tank. I then started using 28g spaced coils without dry firing. Eureka! This was it. After destroying several coils when wicking I tried 30g twisted spaced coils without dry firing. Perfection.

Initially had it set to 410 and watched it reach that mark at 28 watts and noticed a bad taste (burning). I then realized that I have to back off the temp control, so I set it to 370 and it's divine... Very warm vape for sure, and it was handling that at around 22 watts, which is fine with me.

Then I set the flask down for 15 minutes or so, picked it back up again for a vape and it hit temp control almost instantly. Figuring that the resistance settled a bit being that it had time to cool off, I unscrewed the subtank, screwed it back on, selected new coil and its good to go again. I noticed the temp wasn't spiking up to 370 as easy, so I backed it off to 350, and it still hasn't hit the TP mark quite yet. Overall very very satisfied with this thing, and the unorthodox builds I'm doing on it. Working like a dream with twisted kanthal and nickel

Typically, hitting TP early in the draw relates to one of two things: hot coil/leg and/or poor wicking.

 

[Major911]

I tried using twisted 30g. Definitely easier to work with but ohms out like 26g. I couldnt get the resistance where I needed it. I use 28g for single coil setups and 30g straight for duals. Have to be very gentle wicking those 30g coils they are buttery soft. Lol

 

[jaxgator]

I use a 3mm mandrel when wrapping coils. 8 wraps ohms out to .13 - .14Ω for me.

I tried twisted 28g at first but it was .08 - .09Ω with 10 wraps so I started using twisted 30g instead and have been pleased with it ever since.