*I was going to write this as a reply to a thread here (Google search had it as the first link) but I can't comment there so I'm writing it up here for anyone having the same issue.
My swag had a loose 510 (I drop it quite a bit), where it would jiggle and move around no matter how tight the tank was on it. Decided I mine as well take it apart to see if I can fix it since they're cheap and I had a backup. Sorry, no pictures, didn't think I'd be doing a post or anything like that. NOTE: this only works if your issue was the same as mine, where the 510 separated from itself. Seems it's a pressed together type that can do that.
What you'll need:
Small Phillips head screwdriver and very thin flat head (to peel up the covers that are over the crews)
Needle nose pliers
1. Take your battery out and tank off
2. take the thin flat head and start working it into the gap that goes around the fake carbon fiber insert on the sides of the mod. You'll have to do a bit of it before you peel it up enough to get your fingers in there to pull it all the way off. I went slow pulling it and no bends or cracks plus the glue was still sticky enough that slapping them back on after I was done worked fine.
3. Take off the other insert, same way.
4. Unscrew the 4 screws under the inserts near the top of the tank.
5. Pull up on the base plate of the top of the mod, it'll slide out. BE AWARE OF THE BUTTONS. They either slide out still attached or stay in the case but they're not glued on or anything, just placed in the case before the internals get put back in.
6. Take out all screws on the front of the internals around the display. You'll need to move the display down and out of the way to get the pliers in there. Should be enough slack in the wires to do it.
7. Before you use the pliers to squeeze the 510 back together, make sure it's seated as low as it can go into the base plate. I had to twist it a bit and play with it until it was almost all the way down. Mine was slightly raised but that went away after the next step.
8. Take your pliers and, being careful of the soldered on wire at the base of the connector, place them with one side underneath the base of the 510 and the other at the top. I found doing it a little bit on each side, moving back and forth, tightened it up considerably and then once it was snug in place, I put a little more force on the last two and then it was good. Once it clicked, once it didn't so if it's snug, I wouldn't worry about it.
9. Reassemble. The only annoying part was putting the buttons back in their places then trying to slide the internals back in without knocking them out. Took a few tries.
My swag had a loose 510 (I drop it quite a bit), where it would jiggle and move around no matter how tight the tank was on it. Decided I mine as well take it apart to see if I can fix it since they're cheap and I had a backup. Sorry, no pictures, didn't think I'd be doing a post or anything like that. NOTE: this only works if your issue was the same as mine, where the 510 separated from itself. Seems it's a pressed together type that can do that.
What you'll need:
Small Phillips head screwdriver and very thin flat head (to peel up the covers that are over the crews)
Needle nose pliers
1. Take your battery out and tank off
2. take the thin flat head and start working it into the gap that goes around the fake carbon fiber insert on the sides of the mod. You'll have to do a bit of it before you peel it up enough to get your fingers in there to pull it all the way off. I went slow pulling it and no bends or cracks plus the glue was still sticky enough that slapping them back on after I was done worked fine.
3. Take off the other insert, same way.
4. Unscrew the 4 screws under the inserts near the top of the tank.
5. Pull up on the base plate of the top of the mod, it'll slide out. BE AWARE OF THE BUTTONS. They either slide out still attached or stay in the case but they're not glued on or anything, just placed in the case before the internals get put back in.
6. Take out all screws on the front of the internals around the display. You'll need to move the display down and out of the way to get the pliers in there. Should be enough slack in the wires to do it.
7. Before you use the pliers to squeeze the 510 back together, make sure it's seated as low as it can go into the base plate. I had to twist it a bit and play with it until it was almost all the way down. Mine was slightly raised but that went away after the next step.
8. Take your pliers and, being careful of the soldered on wire at the base of the connector, place them with one side underneath the base of the 510 and the other at the top. I found doing it a little bit on each side, moving back and forth, tightened it up considerably and then once it was snug in place, I put a little more force on the last two and then it was good. Once it clicked, once it didn't so if it's snug, I wouldn't worry about it.
9. Reassemble. The only annoying part was putting the buttons back in their places then trying to slide the internals back in without knocking them out. Took a few tries.
