I don't know if it's only me but I just started using the temperature control on the rdna40 now that I got some coils to use it with. I have used it for like 5 or 6months now in v/w mode with regular coils. But since I started using the temp control it seems to fire weirdly and draining my battery way way faster than normally. I know obviously there is going to be a difference in how it works but I don't think it is working right. Am I supposed to adjust the wattage also or just set the temperature I want it at and let it do the work? I have tried changing the wattage to see if it made a difference but it doesn't, at least nothing noticeable. Anyone having this problem or know what I'm doing wrong maybe.
vaporshark rdna40 temp control
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Because temperature control currently requires very low ohms in the 0.1 ohm range, any extra contact resistance of 0.1 ohms inside your connector ends up wasting half your power.
are you sure you are not just confusing the different behavior of the battery meter under TC? The dna battery meter reads under load, which varies with TC and can give a different reading if not read consistently at a comparable point in firing (e.g. after a normal draw vs after a quickly aborted fire).
with the dna40 you can adjust the temperature and leave watts set to max, or you can adjust the watts if you want to adjust the overall power profile.
utter nonsense
with the dna40 you can adjust the temperature and leave watts set to max, or you can adjust the watts if you want to adjust the overall power profile.
utter nonsense
make your coils to .28 or above and set your wattage between 24 to 30 watts and i believe you will see a difference not only in batt life but quality of your vape just my 
Hi all,
My dna40 almost always ramps up the wattage in the initial stage, making for a hot and unpleasant vape, and I need to "blow" out the 1st few puffs..
From my understanding it is for the temp of the coil to get to the desired setting ASAP.. But it is unpleasant..
Anyway I can get around this?
My dna40 almost always ramps up the wattage in the initial stage, making for a hot and unpleasant vape, and I need to "blow" out the 1st few puffs..
From my understanding it is for the temp of the coil to get to the desired setting ASAP.. But it is unpleasant..
Anyway I can get around this?
So try to be above 0.28 ohms?make your coils to .28 or above and set your wattage between 24 to 30 watts and i believe you will see a difference not only in batt life but quality of your vape just my
I just made my first it came out to 0.18, and I can't really tell any difference between TC and traditional kanthal, but I guess that's a good thing?
My current build is .14 and I have my power set to 17watts. One of the things I love about the Flask is if I want to see what's going on when I hit the Fire button and vape - I just need to look down. I see my watts ramp up when I first hit the power. More so if it's sat for awhile. But never enough that I get a hot vape.
It ramps up quickly to get your coil to within 100 degrees of your set temp. But I don't think it should be creating an unpleasant vape. My temp is set to 450 but at the end of my pull my temp only hits about 420 - 430. Not unpleasant or hot at all.
What temp are you set at and what wattage/power are you throwing at it? I find that 17 to 20 watts is usually plenty for me. You don't need to throw a lot of power at it to get a great vape.
It ramps up quickly to get your coil to within 100 degrees of your set temp. But I don't think it should be creating an unpleasant vape. My temp is set to 450 but at the end of my pull my temp only hits about 420 - 430. Not unpleasant or hot at all.
What temp are you set at and what wattage/power are you throwing at it? I find that 17 to 20 watts is usually plenty for me. You don't need to throw a lot of power at it to get a great vape.
I can't tell a difference either. I have 4 different tanks sitting in front of me, all filled with different juices sitting on top of 4 different mods. One of them being my DNA 40 mod. They all vape the exact same way. They all give me a nice warm flavorful vape. Other than one of them is supposed to offer a safer vape because it keeps my juice below a certain temp.So try to be above 0.28 ohms?
I just made my first it came out to 0.18, and I can't really tell any difference between TC and traditional kanthal, but I guess that's a good thing?
Honestly, if I closed my eyes and someone else pulled the trigger - I wouldn't know which one was which.
I guess I like my vapes a certain way, so I build all of my tanks to my satisfaction.
I like the idea of using temp control because of the preconceived health benefits. But beyond that, I see no difference in vape quality as you
Funny you mentioned the VF.. My VF vapes ok too. When it ramps up it is rather 'gentle' and acceptable, I have another 2 VS that's harsh, both in fact. Even when using the same tank..??
Will try lowering the temps on the VS and see how it goes..
I would have thought since both being DNA 40s that it would have been similar. And that's why I mentioned it. But obviously it's not. Interesting and curious.
Assuming the chips in each mod (VF and VS) are genuine DNA40 - they should perform the exact same way - I would think. The chip is doing the heavy lifting, the enclosure is nothing more than a shell. The only variable I could potentially see being ANY kind of issue is the 510 connector, but AFAIK they both (VF and VS) use good quality connections... I believe the VS uses a spring loaded 510 pin connector, and depending on which VF you have, series, clone, authentic, it may or may not be spring loaded. That might be the issue? Might check that out and report back to us. (I know I'd be curious to know)
actually the build of the device can have a significant effect. the 510 connection is absolutely critical and the source of many if not most hardware-based issues. then grounding issues have been fairly common and affect performance as well.
this is one of the problems i've had with certain reviews of the chipset by non-modders. they seem ill able to sort the difference between chip behavior and mod behavior.
this is one of the problems i've had with certain reviews of the chipset by non-modders. they seem ill able to sort the difference between chip behavior and mod behavior.
Sometime I switch rtas between them.. So mostly the same. Happens more on VS.. VF yes also, but seems less often and it doesn't go to the max wattage(39.9), like the VS does.. Maybe up to 27 or so. Btw I mostly set to around 20W for my mods..
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just picked one up today rdna40 w/large screen upgrade, man i love it , the small form factor is awesome and it hits just fine; i love it.
edit: i bought a shark-skin & a blk mini freak-show and a blk N22 to go/w it (waiting) also running a .28 Ti single coil on a silver mini freak-show rite now and she's hitting like a champ....man-o-man such vapor coming out of such a small device....awesome!...i'm really impressed with this device.
edit: i bought a shark-skin & a blk mini freak-show and a blk N22 to go/w it (waiting) also running a .28 Ti single coil on a silver mini freak-show rite now and she's hitting like a champ....man-o-man such vapor coming out of such a small device....awesome!...i'm really impressed with this device.
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Some personal observations here..
Just tried another Ni200 build at 0.15ohms on the VS, and it seems to vape better, as in more stable without the horrible ramping up of wattage. I read somewhere the optimum resistance for the dna40 is at 0.4, which is high and not practical to get, so can I assume the next best thing is to build as high as possibly can? Quite the opposite of the SX(0.065)...
Just tried another Ni200 build at 0.15ohms on the VS, and it seems to vape better, as in more stable without the horrible ramping up of wattage. I read somewhere the optimum resistance for the dna40 is at 0.4, which is high and not practical to get, so can I assume the next best thing is to build as high as possibly can? Quite the opposite of the SX(0.065)...
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