Very Irritating Experience (Kanger ProTank II)

[S1LV3R]

Im gonna have to second the BDC's. I was a pt and pt2 user for many months. They worked pretty good. i never recoiled but i did have to take out a wick to get them to work right. Some heads worked, some didnt. I agree problems can be user error mostly. But there is the occasional "bad batch" that comes outta the factory. I just recently got the anyvape Davide BDC glassomizer cuz i was lookin at the pt3 and didnt like what i was reading. This tank is most definitely the pt killer IMHO. The vapor production of the dual coils is way better and the taste is on par if not better than the protanks. Im on week 3 of the same head and its still powering along greatly. ive pif'ed my pts and pt2s away except for one. Backups for the backups.

 

[edyle]

the coil tends to get flooded.

Hold it horizontally when you use it; even tilt it upward.


My tank is usually upside down; when I want to use it I give it a flip or a shake to wet the coil area.

 

[WarHawk-AVG]

Pictorial howto on the anti gurgling/leaking protank/EVOD coils

How to prevent Kanger T3 and eVod gurgling and leakingSun-Vapers.com

I use a strip of rolled up cotton instead of the silica flavor wick

 

[MacTechVpr]

If the protank draw is very much tighter on the battery than it is off it, then there's a problem with the base not working on that device. It's a problem that occurred on the early Protank 2s that was supposedly fixed. Try not tightening it down all the way and see if it's any better.

The leaking could be a combination of factors. Sometimes the head is loose in the base, or is missing the o-ring that is supposed to seal it to the base. A very hard draw can also turn them into a juice staw - the low pressure in the center sucks juice in from the tank as the airspace expands. Protanks work best with a very light draw. It does sound like the flavour wicks were not distributed properly in the head though, and this can make them leak quite profusely.

All devices have their idiosyncrasies and some people have more trouble with these than others. That thick rich vapour is what is normal for a Protank though, and why so many of us love them. Run them at 6 - 6.5 watts once they are warm.

Don't know what the dud firing is all about, but it sounds like the coil is not working. If you tighten the clearo down hard on the battery all the time, it can push the center pin in so it doesn't make contact. In the worst case you can push the center pin on the battery device in, requiring repair. For 510 devices, just do them up tight enough to make contact and not be too wobbly. Any more will cause you these sorts of problems.

Back in the '70's the pharma co's were studying some of the baffling anomalies regarding the effectiveness of contraceptive foams. One such study finally arrived at some startling explanations, i.e. improper filling, the subjects were eating the product.

Sometimes the answer is as simple as the wrong orifice.

Good luck!



"Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler." —.Albert Einstein.

 

[BreatheCream]

Haven't gone through every reply here, so my apologies if it's been said already but - I've found that sometimes if the battery's socket has some juice (or juice residue) in it, it will sometimes perform like OP is describing - likely "shorting" within the 510 cup, so no power actually gets to the coil. Wipe it out throoughly with a cotton swab or just some fabric or absorbant paper folded to a small point, over and over until it comes away clean. Remove the head from the PT2 base and also wipe out the inside of the base's threaded area as well, and the outside of the bottom of the head - if there's juice between the bottom of the head and the base where it threads onto the battery, the same thing can happen.

Another potential cause is that the head is not screwed in far enough into the PT2 base, causing it to sit too high to actually make contact with the positive pin on the battery, compared to the grounding ring around it. Try taking the base of the PT2 off, then screwing the head down a bit tighter so that it will be more flush relative to the threaded ring around it.

 

[Razorback]

Addt'l Note: I've found that my older batteries that I've used the Vivi Nova on don't tend to work with the ProTank. If you lift the contact on the top of the battery slightly, they then work just fine. My

 

[FearTX]

If you screw the protank on too tightly it will stop the airflow. The little rubber or silcone insulator gasket on the bottom of the coil will bulge out and press against the sides of the 510 connector well.

On my MVP I screw it down loosely just until it fires, I take a few puffs and start unscrewing the beauty ring of the MVP till it makes contact with the bottom of the PT2. I wind up with a solid connection, stable tank, no chance of compressing the insulator gasket or pushing the battery connection in the 510 connector down.

As for your other issues there are some good suggestions here.

I sincerely hope your experience improves.

 

[Sane Asylum]

Yep. Vaping using a PV is not always easy and I understand why some people give up. I have no interest in rebuilding heads and sometimes it gets frustrating figuring out why your liquid is tasting so great one day and the next you're having problems. In my short time being a vaper, I now realize that atomizer heads should be cleaned often, when you fill your protanks be careful that you don't get liquid in the hole, don't screw your tank on to the battery too tight, make sure your battery is clean where it attaches to the tank (hold upside down and stuff with a tissue until you don't see any liquid), let it sit a couple minutes before you vape and check your volts. If I follow my own guidelines, I usually have no problems. I do like the mini II's more than the regular protank II. The regular has to be screwed on just right to get the 'sweet' spot for the best vape.

 

[BreatheCream]

So much to consider, so much potential for personal modifications and tweaks... Vaping is a bit like the linux of nicotine ingestion!

 

[Nightcall]

Sick of the Protanks myself. It's not user error on my part, they're just not designed that well. Truthfact. I've been rebuilding them lately as well, still gurgle sometimes. My most trouble-free tanks have been The Aspire ET-S, and I have a feeling the ET-S is the best one. And the Vision V-Fate Mini. Both glass. Almost never flood, gurgle or leak.

Drawbacks, of course:

The flavor on the Aspire is sometimes good, sometimes vapable, but sometimes a little iffy. I go back and forth on it.
The V-Fate is top-coil so you have to turn it upside down often to wet the wicks. It's worth it though. The single coil V-Fate has light but true flavor. The dual coil has more flavor. Recommend trying both.

 

[Sweetab]

The iclear30, or 30s is better. Made by the same company as the mvp2. Great flavor. Dual coil. Will drink up juice faster, but produces full flavor.

 

[r111]

I saw a tip on ECF that cured my protank gurgle/flooding.

Take a second silicon cap from your spare coils. Add it to your coil chimney by inserting it 180 degrees facing upward and opposite to your existing silicon cap. When you insert the base and coil back into the protank, it will provide a second layer of seal.

I used to have major flooding whenever it was 1/2 full. Now i can vape to the very bottom of the protank every last time.

 

[r111]

Now that I've solved the gurgling problem, I'm now faced with burnt taste when i vape. i had to prime my vape every 3-4 drags. Plus I was seeing burn marks on the flavor wicks.

Now that i've solved my flooding issue with a second cap, i thought i'd remove 1 of the two taste wicks to see how it goes. Oh wow! the draw is now more flavorful right away. And the burned taste is gone.

Give these two combos a try. It works for me.

 

[AgeAgainst]

I've only had two issues with my Protanks leaking/gurgling and I have two of them. Happens when I overfill the tank or when liquid gets too low. There's an easy solution to the latter but with the former I use a pipe cleaner down the center post and it gets rid of the gurgling. I also use a pipe cleaner down the center post whenever I clean my tanks to get rid of any excess water.

Oh, I had my Mini PT leak once when I unscrewed the wrong part of the tank from my battery. Only made that mistake once. Judging from what I've heard and read, it seems like it's a right of passage for some people with the Mini PT.

 

[dekkert]

i run 7 protanks currently and use knockoff atty heads. they work better than kangers (in my eyes). reguardless i have been tinkering with rebuilds with ss mesh and if i can stop the flooding then that will be my answer. best vape i have ever had out of a tank.

 

[petecarlucci]

I think he already has that tank as it comes shipped with the MVP2. I tried it but found myself back on the PT2minis. That's the combo that works best for me, Innokin case (VV & MVP2) with Kanger tanks.

 

[japa91]

ya I love bdc its awesome. but I used to have so many problems with my pt2 I changed to dripper set ups. fatter clouds

 

[patrao_n]

ya I love bdc its awesome. but I used to have so many problems with my pt2 I changed to dripper set ups. fatter clouds

Well thank you for my protank back lol. Btw look up baditude and the blogs about batteries.

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

 

[dekkert]

if you think that the protank 2 is bad try the aga-td on a itaste 134. i have built this thing like 50 times and can't get it to not overheat.

 

[MacTechVpr]

Walter, I had the same revelation you and virtually every vaper on this forum has experienced. Atomizer tank technology is not perfect! And often the expectations formed at retail and by the industry itself about expected performance are ultimately overstated.

Haven't gone through every reply here, so my apologies if it's been said already but - I've found that sometimes if the battery's socket has some juice (or juice residue) in it, it will sometimes perform like OP is describing - likely "shorting" within the 510 cup, so no power actually gets to the coil. Wipe it out throoughly with a cotton swab or just some fabric or absorbant paper folded to a small point, over and over until it comes away clean. Remove the head from the PT2 base and also wipe out the inside of the base's threaded area as well, and the outside of the bottom of the head - if there's juice between the bottom of the head and the base where it threads onto the battery, the same thing can happen.

Another potential cause is that the head is not screwed in far enough into the PT2 base, causing it to sit too high to actually make contact with the positive pin on the battery, compared to the grounding ring around it. Try taking the base of the PT2 off, then screwing the head down a bit tighter so that it will be more flush relative to the threaded ring around it.

Reviewing this thread today, Happy New Year all, the above is some of the soundest advice given. Two key things often omitted when we're sold our first kit. And good advice for those who continue to rely on factory stock supply. Yes, routine maintenance is required even if you don't rebuild including a proper refilling and drying procedure. However, most commenting have not been vaping enough time or not enough (ex light smokers) to realize that with time we vape more steadily and with more frequency as nic levels are reduced. Consequently, we see higher failure rates with increased use.

At the end of the day vaping is far closer to cooking. Some of us will be satisfied with fast food takeout and suffer all its shortcomings. Others will decide they want the gourmet meal and make it themselves. When that day comes they'll need the skills to build a proper electrical coil and the techniques to install it precisely as explained here…

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/tips-tricks/463771-protank-cotton-rebuild-way-i-do.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/clearomizers/486794-protank-microcoil-discussion.html

Rebuilding is not just about making our clearo's work. It's about understanding and availing ourselves of the far broader opportunities and rewards of vaping. Those who think a clearo with a cartridges wick can deliver that, they simply have no idea. And won't unless they try.

The wicking systems we are paying good money for use coils discarded at the dawn of electronics. That they work at all is a hit-or-miss proposition for reasons well explained throughout advanced threads on this forum and the above. Increasingly, the shoddiness of the supply will be hidden as some manufacturers are already doing with their products and we'll be deterred by such integration from rebuilding.

Your choice. But soon, no choice. Learn while you can.

Those who can, do;
those who ca-can't do,
carts do.

Just sayin'.

Good luck.