"voltage drop" rant

[Fury83]

i don't necessarily recommend it, but my current personal vaping preference is a dripper around 35-45 watts. once you get around this range (right around a .4 ohm coil on a mech), the conductivity of the mod starts to become noticeable.

granted, a lot of the high-end gear is still pretty close, even with resistances this low. the difference may not be drastic, but it can still be noticeable, even between to very conductive high-end mods.

There is that but you're also going to get a bit of battery sag at that point I would think.

 

[vapo jam]

There is that but you're also going to get a bit of battery sag at that point I would think.

i take it you're referring to the internal resistance of the battery?

either way, you are indeed correct. assuming your coil is 100 ohms and "everything else" (mod, connections, battery, springs, etc.) is 0.1 ohms, almost all of the voltage is going to go to your coil, and the voltage going to "everything else" is so low that it might as well be zero.

if, on the other hand, your coil is 0.1 ohms and "everything else" is also 0.1 ohms, only half the voltage will go to the coil, and the other half will go to "everything else." in this case, any source of resistance (including the internal resistance of the battery) will make a noticeable difference in the vape.

 

[Chelonian]

hmmm... not sure if i'm correctly envisioning what you're describing, but i might tend to lean away from gears directly connected to the dial on a rheostat.

this might be making it overly complex .... this would allow the tilt to be dependent on the actual temperature of the ceramic plate, as opposed to relying on a particular voltage setting to provide a particular temperature.

... just really like using bridges to make simple sense/response systems

You have the idea, right down to the plane of the plate being steeper for higher temps to keep an even burn.

What I should've made clear was that I am trying to keep in mind that this would be a product for the masses, not for techs.

Therefore, I would keep the frame of reference for the end user the same as it would be in a VV device, and at the same time keeping it as mechanical as possible.

Were I to go the other route, I would just control current, pitch, and juice flow with a simple 27512 EPROM