No, that's not how it works MJTP. Don't worry about it. Just know that when you set 8 watts, you will be getting 8 watts and if you set 4 volts you will get 4 volts. There will be inaccuracies for a variety of reasons, but it will be close enough.
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That's not how regulated devices are designed to work. This is super simplified, since I'm not going to get into unregulated batteries or other factors.
Variable Voltage device: With a carto that has 2.0Ω resistance and I set the volts at 4.0, I will get 8 watts. If I make no other adjustments, when the battery can no longer consistently produce 4.0 volts, it will blink that the battery needs to be charged.
VV/Variable Wattage device: With a carto that has 2.0Ω resistance and I set it at 8 watts, it will automatically adjust the voltage to 4 volts. If I make no other further adjustments, or change cartos, when it can no longer consistently produce 8 watts it will blink that the battery needs to be recharged.
In either case, you find your "sweet spot" and stay there, unless you feel it needs a bit of fine tuning.
VW is often called set it and forget it, since, for example: if you set it at 8 watts you can screw on a different carto with 2.2Ω resistance, it will detect the difference and automatically adjust the voltage to ≈ 4.2 volts to give you 8 watts. For some people having the voltage automatically adjusted is a benefit, since they change toppers frequently; for others, like myself, I don't see much of a difference since I fine tune every new topper I put on, no matter what the resistance.
ETA: Watts and Voltage and Resistance are adjusted in different increments because they are a measurement of different things.
Changing power (watts) by .1 increments would take a very long time pressing buttons to notice any difference.
4 volts x 4 volts / 2.0Ω = 8 watts
4.1 volts x 4.1 volts / 2.0Ω = 8.4 watts
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I'm sure this has been said. But rebuildable coils aren't a "VV/VW thing". Plus VV/VW isn't that difficult to get the hang of 
It will bring you way more customization and if you get VW it will be especially easy since you won't have to change your setting very often. No burning. Plus the real goal is to have a device that regulates your power output. You will be so happy once you realize how solid a hit you get from a APV. APVs can put out so much more vape! Which equals so much more flavor!
It will bring you way more customization and if you get VW it will be especially easy since you won't have to change your setting very often. No burning. Plus the real goal is to have a device that regulates your power output. You will be so happy once you realize how solid a hit you get from a APV. APVs can put out so much more vape! Which equals so much more flavor! 
I don't know about the rest of you but it DOES matter to me. I like just having to dial an forget my wattage.
OP, it sounds like VV/VW would be important to you since you’re interested in multiple juices and you’re picky about the flavor. If you had one juice and you knew it tasted perfect with a 2.0 ohm coil on your eGo battery, you would have very little need for VV/VW. But, juice flavors change at different settings. And one juice may taste great at 8.5 watts while another may not. So, being able to turn the heat up and down will give you the flexibility needed to discover the “sweet spot” for whatever particular juice you happen to be vaping.
I'm sure this has been said. But rebuildable coils aren't a "VV/VW thing". Plus VV/VW isn't that difficult to get the hang of
Rebuildable coils are great on VV/VW devices until you get lower in resistance than they can handle. Lot's of people do this and it's the safest way to go too.
its rather easy
Pick a wattage you want to shoot for from the chart (safe is in green area in my previous chart)
If you have a fixed voltage unit, then you have to shoot for a specific Ω of your coil in your atomizer/cartomizer/coil to get that specific watts
I have a Totally Wicked Tornado RCS, it has a 2.4Ω coil, it pushes 3.7vdc (regulated), so I am getting around 5.7~ watts...I found that I hit the button (and hold it down), puff once and there isn't much vapor, puff again more vapor, puff again alot of vapor, let go of button (it took it a second or two to really heat up the coil and get rocking) If i had a 1.8Ω coil I would be pushing around 7.61 watts, I would probably be able to hit the button and almost IMMEDIATELY get the big puff, but if I held button down I could possibly burn the juice and get that crappy burnt/chemical taste...
If I put that same 1.8Ω tank in say a 5v (regulated) rig it would probably smoke the coils
With a VV I can then take the resistance of coil and dial up the voltage to get that same 7.6~ watts (remember the chart?), in a VW system..I tell it I want 7.6~ watts and it reads the Ω of the coil with an internal Ω meter and self adjusts the voltage thru its own regulator (no need for chart [except if you cranked up the wattage over the safe zone of the coil])...
All said and done...if you REALLY want to get a rig that is "jack of all trades" where you don't have to worry about the chart or Ω this and that...get a VARIABLE WATTAGE rig...drop some good money and buy ONCE and not have to do what many beginners do and keep chasing that perfect vape by throwing money at it time and time again...unless you like having a box full of mods and tanks and coils sitting in the corner
If you are a tinkerer like me and some others and are looking for the perfect vape...rock a VARIABLE VOLTAGE rig...then you can check your Ω's and tweak your volts (you can always go crazy and build your own!)
If you are on a budget then get a decent cheap rig (ego..yadda yadda), refer to the chart, get stock cheap coils and a good juice and aim for that perfect vape
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A simple answer would be... Yes, it absolutely matters. Weather or not it matters to you is something you have to find out for yourself. You can find a VAMO for roughly $35-$40. IMHO that is not a lot of money to spend in order to find out if you would like a VV/VW mod.
Really, its very simple at the end of the day.
Variable Voltage gives you the ability to tell the device to give you X Volts under whatever circumstance. YOU need to know the resistance, or ohms, of the thing you screwed on, to make the right decision as too what voltage setting you will use.
Using Variable voltage, you have the ability to very easily set way too high a voltage and blow the coil, or set way too low a voltage also.
Its a direct setting. You tell the device to give you X volts, you GET X VOLTS. Whether or not you will blow the coil or not, is really up to you. YOU are doing the thinking. YOU are saying to yourself, "Hmm, OK, so the tank is a 1.5ohm single coil. Ill start at 3.7 and adjust from there."
Personally, I prefer VV. I screw on a device, check the ohms, and set the voltage accordingly. More Ohms, More Volts/Less Ohms, Less Volts.
Variable Wattage, makes the device do the math.
The end result of how much juice the device is giving the coil, is not a constant with variable wattage. With VV, the voltage and the resistance are independant, whereas with VW, the Watts and the Resistance work together.
8Watts for a 1.5ohm Atty and a 2.5ohm Atty, will be two different voltages.
5Volts for a 1.5ohm Atty and a 2.5ohm Atty, will ALWAYS be 5volts.
When you're in Variable Wattage mode, the Device is adjusting the Volts for you. So, if you were vaping a 1.5ohm Atty at 3.7volts, and then screw on a 2.5ohm Atty, the device will say, "OK, so he likes the vape of 3.7 volts on a 1.5ohm device. Since he just screwed on a 2.6ohm Device, we're going to need to pump up the voltage to give him a similar vape experience"
When you're in Variable Voltage mode, and you unscrew that 1.5ohm and put on a 2.5ohm, you need to adjust the voltage up from 3.7volts on your own, to get a similar vape experience.
I prefer to use Variable Voltage myself.
Variable Voltage gives you the ability to tell the device to give you X Volts under whatever circumstance. YOU need to know the resistance, or ohms, of the thing you screwed on, to make the right decision as too what voltage setting you will use.
Using Variable voltage, you have the ability to very easily set way too high a voltage and blow the coil, or set way too low a voltage also.
Its a direct setting. You tell the device to give you X volts, you GET X VOLTS. Whether or not you will blow the coil or not, is really up to you. YOU are doing the thinking. YOU are saying to yourself, "Hmm, OK, so the tank is a 1.5ohm single coil. Ill start at 3.7 and adjust from there."
Personally, I prefer VV. I screw on a device, check the ohms, and set the voltage accordingly. More Ohms, More Volts/Less Ohms, Less Volts.
Variable Wattage, makes the device do the math.
The end result of how much juice the device is giving the coil, is not a constant with variable wattage. With VV, the voltage and the resistance are independant, whereas with VW, the Watts and the Resistance work together.
8Watts for a 1.5ohm Atty and a 2.5ohm Atty, will be two different voltages.
5Volts for a 1.5ohm Atty and a 2.5ohm Atty, will ALWAYS be 5volts.
When you're in Variable Wattage mode, the Device is adjusting the Volts for you. So, if you were vaping a 1.5ohm Atty at 3.7volts, and then screw on a 2.5ohm Atty, the device will say, "OK, so he likes the vape of 3.7 volts on a 1.5ohm device. Since he just screwed on a 2.6ohm Device, we're going to need to pump up the voltage to give him a similar vape experience"
When you're in Variable Voltage mode, and you unscrew that 1.5ohm and put on a 2.5ohm, you need to adjust the voltage up from 3.7volts on your own, to get a similar vape experience.
I prefer to use Variable Voltage myself.
Ultimately, it's power (watts) that matters to the quality of your vape. It corresponds directly to the temperature of the atomizer and how the liquid is vaporized. Too low of a temperature and the flavor and volume of vapor is unsatisfactory; too high and the juice tastes burnt and the vapor is uncomfortably hot. Higher still and the atomizer coil, wick, etc. burn up.
The relationship between power, voltage, current and resistance is spelled out in Ohm's Law. The short story is that you can vary the power used to heat the coil by changing the voltage across it, the current through it, the resistance of the coil itself or any combination thereof. Your safe range of adjustment is limited by the maximum allowable discharge current ("C rating") of the battery and the amount of heat the coil can dissipate before it burns up.
For a given coil resistance, raising the voltage across it (as in a VV device) will increase the current through the coil and the power (W) dissipated. So raising or lowering the voltage also raises and lowers the watts, but you need to do the math to hit a particular target wattage while staying within the safe range mentioned above. (It's wise to not depend too heavily on a battery's protection circuitry to save it -and you - from a wildly inappropriate load).
A VW device adjusts output voltage and/or current on its own to achieve a given power and saves you the trouble of doing the math. It's a convenience. The net effect is the same.
I hope this helps.
The relationship between power, voltage, current and resistance is spelled out in Ohm's Law. The short story is that you can vary the power used to heat the coil by changing the voltage across it, the current through it, the resistance of the coil itself or any combination thereof. Your safe range of adjustment is limited by the maximum allowable discharge current ("C rating") of the battery and the amount of heat the coil can dissipate before it burns up.
For a given coil resistance, raising the voltage across it (as in a VV device) will increase the current through the coil and the power (W) dissipated. So raising or lowering the voltage also raises and lowers the watts, but you need to do the math to hit a particular target wattage while staying within the safe range mentioned above. (It's wise to not depend too heavily on a battery's protection circuitry to save it -and you - from a wildly inappropriate load).
A VW device adjusts output voltage and/or current on its own to achieve a given power and saves you the trouble of doing the math. It's a convenience. The net effect is the same.
I hope this helps.
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Here's the end all/be all question that any newbie would want to hear the answer to:
A eGo Twist's maximum output is 4.8 Volts. The lowest resistance you can buy a ProTank II in is 1.5
If a newbie randomly bought this combination, would 4.8 on a 1.5 cause any damage to the tank, battery, or person inhaling?
A eGo Twist's maximum output is 4.8 Volts. The lowest resistance you can buy a ProTank II in is 1.5
If a newbie randomly bought this combination, would 4.8 on a 1.5 cause any damage to the tank, battery, or person inhaling?
Simple answer: no.
Check this video (chart around the 12:00 mark): A PBusardo Review - eGo Twist - OvaleUSA - YouTube
At the 4.8v setting with a 1.5ohm topper, the twist doesn't put out much more than 3.7v. The twist battery just can't keep up with the power drain. So, with a 1.5ohm topper, there isn't much difference when setting anything between 3.7v and the max 4.8v.
VV is great I have 2 different vv batteries, I find that depending on the clearomizers I use weather it's single or dual coil and the resistance on the varying wicks higher or lower voltage is needed. If you don't want that burnt taste when you put in a new wick or use a brand new tank with a wick let the e juice soak in for about 10 mins and vape on a low or the lowest setting in the beginning to break in the wick. Also dual coils will help with not having the burnt taste but some don't always work well with lower set voltage batteries.
The scenario is rather a stretch. A person would have to specifically buy a 1.5Ω head, that resistance is not included in the tank kit - and then what? They put the head in the Protank, forget what the resistance is, screw it on the Twist and crank it? Crank up the voltage to see what will happen? The Twist voltage adjustment knob has to be turned manually. It's unlikely it would somehow accidentally get turned all the way up to 4.8v. It's a bit like asking what if a random newbie tried to stick the USB cable directly into a wall socket.
What? You haven't converted your plugs yet?
Yes. They make wall plugs that also have USB plugins.
OK, I guess I'm REAL SLOW . I still don't see why a device needs 2 controls to do essentially the same thing, and that's maintaining
a constant temperature of the coil. If one only has a VW device, if it's adjusted for 8 watts with a 2 ohm coil, that's going to keep the voltage at 4 volts, as long as the battery can supply this.
With a VV device, if the same setting is desired (8 watts), then (4 volts) with the same coil (2 ohms) does the same thing until
the battery can no longer supply the voltage to maintain the 8 watts.
a constant temperature of the coil. If one only has a VW device, if it's adjusted for 8 watts with a 2 ohm coil, that's going to keep the voltage at 4 volts, as long as the battery can supply this.
With a VV device, if the same setting is desired (8 watts), then (4 volts) with the same coil (2 ohms) does the same thing until
the battery can no longer supply the voltage to maintain the 8 watts.
BTW, thanks for all the informative replies. I guess I'm trying to read too much into this or something, but why does Provari only
have VV ?
Have faith, I'll get there
have VV ?
Have faith, I'll get there
As you pointed out, why have two functions that reach the same result? Really comes down to what you are more at ease with mentally. I prefer VV to VW, don't see a need for VW when I already have a Provari that I can adjust to any delivery and juice I care to use.
In the end, read reviews, ask owners of the devices for pros and cons, and decide what's right for you, but being able to adjust the power for the delivery device and juice you have on it does make a huge difference.
In the end, read reviews, ask owners of the devices for pros and cons, and decide what's right for you, but being able to adjust the power for the delivery device and juice you have on it does make a huge difference.
I see your point and somewhat the same thing I know people have there opinion but if you get your vv/vw
Device to produce great vaper and taste I think it's good. But what is good for someone may not be good for another. I read that you don't cook at one set temperature range therefore with different types of e liquids (pg/vg)% they don't always vape the same on the same volt/ watts Thanks just my opinion
Device to produce great vaper and taste I think it's good. But what is good for someone may not be good for another. I read that you don't cook at one set temperature range therefore with different types of e liquids (pg/vg)% they don't always vape the same on the same volt/ watts Thanks just my opinion
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