Volts, Attys, Different Batts - Please give a breakdown

[DcMagic]

I have a "stock" joye 510, and im looking into getting a mod, Like a chuck or screwdriver, or silver bullet, ect...

I know that the 2 things im looking for is vapor production and Batt life.

Now all these issues come up as if I want 3.7v, 5, 6v, 510 atty, 801, 901.. ect....

Im guessing that I want a 6v mod, with the biggest batts I can find, or the ones that last the longest at 6v. but what atty to use? 510 burns up? Not enough vapor production with 901?

Im starting to get confused.

Is there a simplified breakdown of the performance of different volts, and then the what the differences are when using different attys at the different voltages? and the life of the batt when running that the different volts, using the different attys...

Any help would be great.. Thanks

 

[DonDaBoomVape]

I’m not one of the more technically astute “experts” here, but why don’t I at least begin with a very general, layperson’s understanding.

Any of the battery mods are likely to perform more effectively (e.g., deliver more throat hit and vapor) than an unmodified e-cig with a skinny battery.

By “battery life,” I assume you don’t mean how long the battery will last before giving up the ghost entirely, but how long you can vape it prior to it needing to be recharged.

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If so, battery life can be gauged, not by voltage, but by mAh (milliamp hours). For example, the VP1 uses a 360 mAh 10400 battery … the Protégé a 900 mAh 14500 battery … and the Chuck, either an 18650 battery (which can be as high as 3,000 mAh) or two CR123 batteries (750-880 mAh)*, etc.

* [NOTE: Although the voltage (3.0V) of those two CR123 batteries in series is added to deliver 6.0, the mAh of each battery is not.]

And even among the “skinny” (cigarette-shaped) batteries, a 380 mAh KR808D-1 extra-long battery will last longer (before needing to be recharged) than a 280 mAh Joye510 mega battery, which will last longer than a 150 mAh Joye510 regular battery or a 100 mAh super-mini.

All other things being equal (that is an important qualification), the higher the voltage, the more powerful the vaping experience (and the greater the strain on the atomizer). So a 6V GG likely will deliver more vapor and greater throat hit than a 3.7V Screwdriver.

But higher voltage is not necessarily better. Devotees of the 5V Prodigy (which uses a resistor to tame its two 3.0V batts down to 5V) claim that 5V is the “sweet spot.” Others swear by their 6V or even 7.4V devices ... or devices that can run at all of those, as well as at 3.7V. I happen to prefer a (very effective) 3.7V experience, such as is delivered by a 14500 (e.g., Bartleby†) or 18650 battery (e.g., Juice Box†)… but not so much by my penstyle battery – all of which are rated 3.7V. But that, like favorite e-liquid flavor or nicotine level, is strictly personal preference. Electronic cigarettes can be very effective at any of these voltages (as long as the device is using the voltage for which it was intended).

† [CAVEAT: I have not yet used these; I just lust after them, based on the video and written reviews.]

Any of the atomizers you mentioned (510, 801, 901), as well as the KR808D-1 or GreenCig cartomizers, can be used effectively with virtually all battery mods at voltages between 3.7 and 6.0, as long as they’re kept moist with e-liquid. [I haven’t heard enough about 7.4V to comment on that level.] Which is “best” is in the eye of the beholder. Each delivers a different vaping experience.

To learn more, check out the Battery Mods forum (especially The ABCs of batteries thread), the Electronic Cigarette Reviews forum, and the relevant ECF Approved Suppliers forum (in most cases, a specific battery mod is sold by only one supplier).