The description says it all but I want some advice please . Im vaping on a rta and the vape is hot at first . The vape will pop then settle and is nice . Im running just a simple single coil , 0.5 ohms , at 23 watts . It will give me 3.5 volts and a nice vape . The problem was that I noticed the volts jumped from 3.9 , 3.7 , then 3.5 repeatedly . The ohms stayed the same . It also would pop loud and if you don't blow a puff to exhaust then inhale vape it will be very warm . I dont like warm vapes , I like mine rather cool and flavourful . I can do this on any mod and at any wattage , same reaction . It does this at any wattage regardless of preset . I took the rta and checked all my connections , checked the wires for any tabs maybe sticking out touching anything , and rewicked it in the process . Still the same . Am I doing something wrong ?
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You don't say what tank this is with. I would say is something in your method of wicking that's the source of your mild flooding. As to the fluctuating voltage which I assume you're reading of the display of your regulated mod (which mod?) I would ignore it. It's pretty much useless and distracting information that never seems to help.
How big and how many wraps is your coil? Popping happens when expanding steam is trapped somehow, or something is so hot that a large amount of juice instantly vaporizes.
Thanks for the replies . It is a kanger subtank mini using the rba . I have been vaping clearomizers since 2014 and just started building a few months ago . My wrap is 2.5mm with 5 twist on 26 gauge kenthol equaling .7 ohms . I changed the coil from the first one that I posted . It is still doing the same though , although now I use 16 watts . It reads 3.6 volts then goes down to 3.4 or 3.3 volts. I use it on a Hana modz box mod with DNA 30 and a kbox mini . Both read the same ,
If the resistance of the coil is stable then the voltage should not change. Strip out the wicking and put the atomizer on an ohm meter. Tap strum and manipulate the coil to see if the resistance changes. If it does then make sure the coil is seated properly and tighten your leads. If the volts the mod displays still changes then I suggest your mod may be faulty.
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/b...ckle-pop-and-spit-hot-juice-on-my-tongue.7929
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/b...ckle-pop-and-spit-hot-juice-on-my-tongue.7929
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My first suspect would be a bad electrical connection that only becomes apparent with heat expansion.
Make sure your leads are properly trapped by the screws in the RBA head. Try to get your lead wire to connect on the left side of the grub screw so that as you tighten, the coil lead is pulled in by the screw rather than pushed away.
Also make sure that the head is properly screwed into the base of the tank. Finger tight only--use just enough torque to seat it with no wiggle-wobble.
Since you're using a simple single round wire, there is no need for preheat. Round Kanthal will get to the "right" temp for your vape pretty quick.
Wicking the Subtank RBA is... fun! For a 2.5mm coil, I use about a quarter of my Muji cotton pad, with tails cut abut 2mm above the lip of the chamber cylinder that screws down (not the top piece that screws down over the build). Then I just fluff and tuck the wick tails in to cover the wicking holes.
If you do all this and you're still getting popping, increase the wattage a bit and close the airflow a bit. Just a little on each.
Make sure your leads are properly trapped by the screws in the RBA head. Try to get your lead wire to connect on the left side of the grub screw so that as you tighten, the coil lead is pulled in by the screw rather than pushed away.
Also make sure that the head is properly screwed into the base of the tank. Finger tight only--use just enough torque to seat it with no wiggle-wobble.
Since you're using a simple single round wire, there is no need for preheat. Round Kanthal will get to the "right" temp for your vape pretty quick.
Wicking the Subtank RBA is... fun! For a 2.5mm coil, I use about a quarter of my Muji cotton pad, with tails cut abut 2mm above the lip of the chamber cylinder that screws down (not the top piece that screws down over the build). Then I just fluff and tuck the wick tails in to cover the wicking holes.
If you do all this and you're still getting popping, increase the wattage a bit and close the airflow a bit. Just a little on each.
When a Coil heats up from Room Temperature, the Coils Resistance Increases. So to maintain a Fixed Wattage, the Voltage the Mod Outputs would have to Increase as the Resistance of the Coil Increases.
Exm:
3.39 Volts at 0.5 Ohms = about 23 Watts
3.86 Volts at 0.65 Ohms = about 23 Watts
Could what you are seeing have More to do with what the Board Displays? Verses what it is Physically Doing?
The ohms stayed the same as does the wattage but the volts start higher then level lower like what I had set it for . I changed the coil , the same . I switched between mods , the same again . Idk . I don’t have any problems with flooding or excess juice leaking and no problems chain vaping for hours , but still the same thing either the popping and voltage changes when first fired .
That is Strange.
Because if anything, the Direct Opposite should be happening. Voltage getting Lower as you take the Hit in Wattage Mode.
Didn't see anyone ask this...on your mod, is there an option to lock the resistance?
And/or...your rba is loose...(and I mean that in the most minuscule way possible)
And/or...your rba is loose...(and I mean that in the most minuscule way possible)
I don't really have an answer for you, but I've had the same problem. Just once in a while. I've had popping like that on a Lemo. Just one or two loud pops when I started using it from cold. I would rewick it and it would go away. I tried giving it some power without inhaling until it popped. Then it would be fine. Never checked the voltage though.
I did read a bunch of posts about popping. One theory is that there wasn't enough wick in the coil and small pools of juice built up between the wick and the coil. Then when you apply power that juice would evaporate explosively. Once it was gone you would be fine until you let it cool down and the juice pool would build up again.
I use rayon and now I'm careful to get the wick in tight. I haven't had that popping recently.
I did read a bunch of posts about popping. One theory is that there wasn't enough wick in the coil and small pools of juice built up between the wick and the coil. Then when you apply power that juice would evaporate explosively. Once it was gone you would be fine until you let it cool down and the juice pool would build up again.
I use rayon and now I'm careful to get the wick in tight. I haven't had that popping recently.
I thought that too with the possibility of arcing happening from something not touching correctly but I couldn't find anything . Everything is secured , the pin is touching the rba , the pin on both mods are pushing securely on the atti . The juice being superheated at first was my thought but rewicking , new coil made , different mods , all with same result . lol , it has stumped me . I see many vapers videos exhale into the atti before inhaling the vape so I just do that . I have a GS Air that does the exact same thing on every coil .
I thought kanthal was specifically engineered to have stable resistance under heating?
Is it possible you got one of the new hip hop tanks? They do a lot of popping and locking.
Both Kanthal and NiChrome 80 have a Low amount of Resistance Change over the Temperatures Ranges that we use.
But from what the OP has said, this Doesn't sound like Resistance Change is playing a role in what He/She is seeing. Because it is Doing the Direct Opposite.
Sounds like it is More something to do with the Board than the Coil. But that's just kinda a Best Guess.
Check the centre pin on the tank Base, it has to be free of oxidation at both sides.
Check the centre pin of the Mini RBA, it has to be free of any oxidation.
Check the threading of the Mini RBA, it must be gunk-free.
Check your Kanthal wire, it must look uniform and without stretches and bumps.
Stretch your wick in the coil, traveling it back and forth for several times, to make sure there are no empty pockets in it.
If else fails, and it still happen on other mods, your e-liquid composition is probably to blame.
Check the centre pin of the Mini RBA, it has to be free of any oxidation.
Check the threading of the Mini RBA, it must be gunk-free.
Check your Kanthal wire, it must look uniform and without stretches and bumps.
Stretch your wick in the coil, traveling it back and forth for several times, to make sure there are no empty pockets in it.
If else fails, and it still happen on other mods, your e-liquid composition is probably to blame.
I'm making a new batch today of juice so maybe that will be it . The currant one is a mix of two others made earlier ( one made back in October the other made around Christmas time ). One was blackberry at 80/10/10 VG ,water ,PG and the other was 80/20 VG/PG .
On my dna and yihi mods you can clearly see wattage starting low, then climbs to set wattage, at the same time the volts change ...this is normal . I believe your just seeing a normal process of the board. As for spitting, could be a slight flood which until that juice burns, it does create a hotter vape....if you have juice control, close it down a bit. Also excessive popping can be from insufficient wicking material, next time try slightly more...you can also try raising or lowering coil , sometimes too high or too low can cause it to be a little hot
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