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I read here for about 6 months and still didn't know what to get. I finally posted and asked questions and it all made sense and I ordered right way. Some people can read and figure out what to get, others might need more one on one help.
That's why it's a forum and not just a website.
That's why it's a forum and not just a website.
I read here for about 6 months and still didn't know what to get. I finally posted and asked questions and it all made sense and I ordered right way. Some people can read and figure out what to get, others might need more one on one help.
That's why it's a forum and not just a website.
I need both. I have a head like a rock, so I've been told lol. I was all over google untill I found ECF. Now, well lets say I think I found a home.
I would read here until I got a headache and smoking the whole time! All the numbers and types ran together and I didn't know what was what.
I finally posted, told about myself, asked for a suggestion. Mlinky gave me a little shopping list and I ordered everything on it. That was it! Now if only I could follow her to Reo-land I'd be in heaven!
One of these days!
I finally posted, told about myself, asked for a suggestion. Mlinky gave me a little shopping list and I ordered everything on it. That was it! Now if only I could follow her to Reo-land I'd be in heaven!
One of these days!
The general answer to volts and ohms and batteries, relevant to single coil atomizers and cartomizers
For typical voltage batteries which are around 3.4 to 3.7 ohms:
Slim batteries - the general rule is nothing LR on these. Use 2.5 to 3 ohms only. If TW ships an LR atty with slim 510 I have no idea why. But they also gave me an Ego cable with my 510 (which damaged 5 510 batteries before I figured that out) so who knows.
Fat battery models and mods 450mah+ - these can use standard resistance or LR stuff. However mass produced fat battery model (Ego, Riva 510, etc) may be damaged or killed by extreme LR by which I mean stuff under 1.7ohm and some people won't go below 2 ohms on these.
---
For mods - Mods come in different voltages and some are variable voltage. Typical voltages are 3.7, 5, 6, 7 and variable. Mods use removable industrial protected Lithium Ion or AW IMR batteries which look similar to flashlight batteries. With these you choose your ohms relative to the voltage. As a simplistic explanation, for single coils, you will get this effect - for ohms of each of these amounts less than the voltage you get the following effect (ie 1 less than voltage, 1.5 less than voltage etc)
.5 barely warm
1 warmer
1.5 hotter
2 even hotter
2.2 even hotter and beyond this you may damage something
So a 3 ohm atty is barely warm at 3.7v, very hot at 5v, and will probably pop and die at 7v
---
dual coils - these are different. A 1.5 ohm dual coil is 2 3 ohm coils. The amount of current 1.5 ohms draws may damage some fat batteries and is best used on mods. But it's really just 2 standard resistance coils, so rather than being hot it's a double amount of somewhat warm vapor.
For typical voltage batteries which are around 3.4 to 3.7 ohms:
Slim batteries - the general rule is nothing LR on these. Use 2.5 to 3 ohms only. If TW ships an LR atty with slim 510 I have no idea why. But they also gave me an Ego cable with my 510 (which damaged 5 510 batteries before I figured that out) so who knows.
Fat battery models and mods 450mah+ - these can use standard resistance or LR stuff. However mass produced fat battery model (Ego, Riva 510, etc) may be damaged or killed by extreme LR by which I mean stuff under 1.7ohm and some people won't go below 2 ohms on these.
---
For mods - Mods come in different voltages and some are variable voltage. Typical voltages are 3.7, 5, 6, 7 and variable. Mods use removable industrial protected Lithium Ion or AW IMR batteries which look similar to flashlight batteries. With these you choose your ohms relative to the voltage. As a simplistic explanation, for single coils, you will get this effect - for ohms of each of these amounts less than the voltage you get the following effect (ie 1 less than voltage, 1.5 less than voltage etc)
.5 barely warm
1 warmer
1.5 hotter
2 even hotter
2.2 even hotter and beyond this you may damage something
So a 3 ohm atty is barely warm at 3.7v, very hot at 5v, and will probably pop and die at 7v
---
dual coils - these are different. A 1.5 ohm dual coil is 2 3 ohm coils. The amount of current 1.5 ohms draws may damage some fat batteries and is best used on mods. But it's really just 2 standard resistance coils, so rather than being hot it's a double amount of somewhat warm vapor.
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Ohm mah mah..... Cigs were never this complicated (that we knew about). lol.
Ohms.... it's a measure of resistance.... like plugging a portion of a water pipe. The bigger the number the bigger the plug, the more "friction"/resistance. Bigger resistance = less electricity per second. Smaller # = more current flow (hotter). As you've probably gathered from all the above.
I just wanted to mention (to everyone reading this as well as the OP), that you can deal with watts easily enough. You've been dealing with watts for years with light bulbs, even if you don't know how to define it exactly, you still use it. True with e-cigs too. You need 2 things battery voltage, and ohms (resistance) of the atty/carto.
Volts * Volts / ohms = watts.
watts = heat
This works for any e-cig, any voltage, any atomizer. Even dual coil stuff (but divide by 2 to get watts per coil since there are two). Once you know what wattage you like, the rest can be worked out. It gets you in the ballpark.
So V*V/R is a magic formula that let's you work it out no matter what devices you have or switch to. Too bad they don't mark the atomizers with ohms. That would be too easy. Only way to tell is to know what you purchased, or use the multimeter things and measure it.
Good Luck!
Ohms.... it's a measure of resistance.... like plugging a portion of a water pipe. The bigger the number the bigger the plug, the more "friction"/resistance. Bigger resistance = less electricity per second. Smaller # = more current flow (hotter). As you've probably gathered from all the above.
I just wanted to mention (to everyone reading this as well as the OP), that you can deal with watts easily enough. You've been dealing with watts for years with light bulbs, even if you don't know how to define it exactly, you still use it. True with e-cigs too. You need 2 things battery voltage, and ohms (resistance) of the atty/carto.
Volts * Volts / ohms = watts.
watts = heat
This works for any e-cig, any voltage, any atomizer. Even dual coil stuff (but divide by 2 to get watts per coil since there are two). Once you know what wattage you like, the rest can be worked out. It gets you in the ballpark.
So V*V/R is a magic formula that let's you work it out no matter what devices you have or switch to. Too bad they don't mark the atomizers with ohms. That would be too easy. Only way to tell is to know what you purchased, or use the multimeter things and measure it.
Good Luck!
word. So now what's the general rule for battery life?
for example....a LR atty 1.5 ohm on a 18650 2400mah?
so forth and so son.
for example....a LR atty 1.5 ohm on a 18650 2400mah?
so forth and so son.
Maybe a shot "over the bow". But it was selfish and rude, please accept my apology.
You just seemed very lost, as I was and some are, and I thought that a quick read could get you where you want to be.
I think I need not post here any longer.
You just seemed very lost, as I was and some are, and I thought that a quick read could get you where you want to be.
I think I need not post here any longer.
I don't know because you didn't say what voltage an 18650 is - I am assuming 3.7v? If 3.7v then I would not go hotter than 1.5ohm (2.2 less than voltage) and at the other end 3.2ohms would be barely warm (3.2 is .5 less than voltage)
If you mean using that battery in a Provari or something to create multiple voltages, then it depends what voltage you have it set to.
A consumer would never buy an air conditioner with a prerequisite of understanding thermal dynamics, nor a Auto purchaser need to understand concepts of internal combustion, or hydraulic fluid dynamics. As a self proclaimed audiophile, you don't need my knowledge to buy a stereo.
So why is this different?
yeah its the 18650 2400mah 3.7 for my RS v2...I've also noticed that when the battery is weak or about to die you don't get that same amount of massive vape as if it was fresh.
first to the OP.... really what you have is pretty much indicated by manufacturer really... for example you said that you have a TW tornado... I know that that translates to a joye made product.. so that's a 3.7V battery (virtually all stock ecigs are going to be 3.7V)... and joye's standard resistance 510 model atties are 2.2 - 2.5 Ohm (knock off 510 atties such as SLB are 3 - 3.5 ohm) ... but you said you were using LR so that varies by who made that atty....LR atties first came out to simulate higher voltage vaping because a LR 510 on 3.7v produces the same wattage (read heat) as a standard joye 510 atty at 5V... it was commonly referred to the 5v sweet spot which is really between 8 to 10 watts.
in reality there is much more going on... the truth is no stock ecig battery can suppy the needed amperage to support a LR atty (in truth not even a standard atty) without overdraining and causing damage to the battery and killing it as well as experiencing voltage sag so it doesn't even really run at 3.7v...
stop reading here unless you want to be confused even more.
@ematic... depends on the manufacturer of the battery, resistance of the atty and your vaping habits...
but if you take the voltage (3.7V) divided by the resistance (1.5 ohm) you get amp draw... on this case 2.47A
your battery depending on manufacturer has a C rating which translates to the max drain rate the battery can handle (for example 2C (for aw batteries) so a 2600mAh battery with a 2C rating can supply 5.2A in 30 minutes (2* the mah rating but that hour divided by 2 as well)...
** this is why the stock batteries fail with LR...because a generic battery with a 1.5C rating and 1000mAh can't supply that 2.47A without overdraining and damaging the battery**
but we have to get the actual drain rate...so you take that amp draw (2.47A in this case) and divide that by the mAh rating of your battery ( I used the 2600mAh aw in this example so... 2470/2600=.95 (the 2.47A converted back into mA) and this is your C rate of discharge...
divide 60 minutes by that and that'll give you continuous minutes of discharge (63 minutes in this case) multipy by 60 (3789) and that gives you continuous seconds...
then it's all about how you break that up with your vape habits...ie that's 757 5 second long button presses... and if you press the button once a minute every minute thats 12 1/2 hours...
I try when I can....
try and keep it simple to follow but it IS math and all factors seem to be dependant on one another...
doing the math and seeing the time bump going from 1.5 ohm to 1.7 or 1.8 or even 2.2 is eye opening...
lol... a 1.6 ohm on the 3100mAh battery I'm using and with my vape habits (which are pretty heavy) lasts me about 56 hours
Cool Drozd. Yeah, like he said.... depends on how long you hold the button down each hit. lol.
Its like a gas tank in the car. More mAh = more "gallons". How fast you drive and engine size/fuel efficiency determines your MPG tho (how long it will last). Just 'cuz you have a bigger tank doesn' t mean you can calc total miles properly without knowing other factors.
So just know that 2400 mAh is twice the capacity of 1200 mAh. If you know that 1200 lasts you xx hours, you can assume about 2xx hours with 2400.
Its like a gas tank in the car. More mAh = more "gallons". How fast you drive and engine size/fuel efficiency determines your MPG tho (how long it will last). Just 'cuz you have a bigger tank doesn' t mean you can calc total miles properly without knowing other factors.
So just know that 2400 mAh is twice the capacity of 1200 mAh. If you know that 1200 lasts you xx hours, you can assume about 2xx hours with 2400.
except that that 1200mAh battery depending on which manufacturer and which atty you're using is hitting awefully close to having the max drain rate of the battery exceeded...thus damaging it and causing it's capacity to dwindle (often quite quickly)..
that's easier to see comparing something like 14500 size batteries though:
let's say you have a trustfire 900mAh battery(1.5C)
a AW 750mAh battery*2C)
and an AW LIMN high drain 650mAh battery(8C)
so the trustfire is capable of a max 1.35A drain, the AW a max of 1.5A, and the AW high drain a max of 4.8A...
so even with a standard 2.2 ohm atty at 3.7V you;re looking at a drain of 1.68A (2.47A for a 1.5 ohm atty)...
it's pretty clear which ones are going to experience voltage sag and not perform as well as they could and in which order they're going to die in, as well as start to fail in their ability to hold capacity...
so even if we move up to a 1200mAh battery they're not going to support running a LR atty (1.5 or 1.8)
the *fire brands have a 1.5C rate so that's 1.8A max
AW ICR have a 2C rate so that's 2.4A max (would cover the 1.8 ohm atty and be real close on the 1.5)
that's why for actual real satisfaction and little to no headache I do not use or suggest (for longterm use) ANY stock model battery... but a mod..
and even then only a very few of those batteries... ie any 16650 with 2400mAh or more
or AW IMR high drain LiMN batteries in sizes smaller than 18650 (except fo 10440 (no battery in that size cuts it))
It really wasn't that bad. I know I've said worse and I'm not going anywhere. I hope you don't either.
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