VV REOS Part VI
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I've been vaping @ 5v with a Cisco 2.5Ω atty its my sweetspot. I normally use LR 1.5Ω @ 3.7v but LRs tend to die quicker so this way I get the same results and feel the atty life will live longer.
I've been vaping @ 5v with a Cisco 2.5Ω atty its my sweetspot. I normally use LR 1.5Ω @ 3.7v but LRs tend to die quicker so this way I get the same results and feel the atty life will live longer.
Awwwww! we have the same sweet spot
1.8ohm bridgeless (the three-hole jobs) on a 4.8v batt is the shizzle for my nizzle.
thats Az hot there my friend your the only guy I know that runs it hotter then I do
When the 4.8's first come off the charger (usually around 5.6 or so), it's too hot to vape, and I have to fight through it. About 5.2 thru 4.7 or so, it's just jake.
Well the spacers that come with the Pila go on the pos side of things but it really makes zero difference.
What ever end you can get the best fit is the way I would go.
Tomorrow....
Tomorrow....
I'll vape ya'.....Tomorrow.....
They're only a day away.
Tomorrow....
I'll vape ya'.....Tomorrow.....
They're only a day away.
I'm just recently switched from cartos to atomizers when using my Reos. I ordered a Custom HH.357 Cisco Spec Hybrid 510 Atomizer at 1.5 ohms. After reading your post a was also going to order a Cisco Spec SR510 2.5 ohm Atomizer, just so I can try both out and see which I prefer. But I read this warning posted with this atty and wanted to get your opinion:I've been vaping @ 5v with a Cisco 2.5Ω atty its my sweetspot. I normally use LR 1.5Ω @ 3.7v but LRs tend to die quicker so this way I get the same results and feel the atty life will live longer.
"There is a learning curve inherent with SR atomizers running @ above standard voltage of 3.7v and you need to understand how to use them properly and not damage them. I don't recommend these atomizers for users who are new to vaping unless they understand the proper use. There is no warranty on these atomizers, every atomizer is metered out and is guaranteed to not be DOA."
Should I wait until I have more experience with atomizers before I try out the 2.5 ohm attys? These are only around 9 bucks instead of the $24 or $25 I spent on the custom Cisco atty. I've spent a lot on these VV mods and want to use a high-quality atty.... so I went with what I've heard was the best.
Just curious if you think 2.5ohm atomizers are harder to use for newbies. Do I have to keep the voltage above a certain point when using a 2.5ohm atty? I change my voltage depending on the juice I'm vaping. Would the 1.5 be more versatile in vaping at different voltages?
No not at all imo but you'll want to use a higher voltage for better results. It allows aa greater range of voltage to use without compromising the atty.
The ramping higher of voltage thru a LR 1.5Ω atty increases the shortness of life that of the atty. There are reasons/usage for LR, SR & HV attys.
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Woot! My Reo is in NY. Short plane away, customs visit (hopefully not long), then to evil Canada Post
Yeah, my light stays on even after I put the stinking cap back on. It's a Camry. Did it with a Mitsubishi I owned too.Maybe it's a Japanese thing?
Good Day Fine REO Folk. Hope all are safe and feeling good or getting better.
DH's car, where the gas tank cap light is finicky is a 2002 Acura TL. The light doesn't do it all the time but often enough. I didn't disconnect battery as I have to take the air filter scoop off but oil was low, so put some in. I suspect other fluids may need attention. A couple months ago the hand brake light started popping on while driving. A light tap on brakes makes it go off so I'm wondering if maybe brake fluid is low, too. Car manual, PT Cruiser Limited 2003, says to go ahead and make several short trips before taking it in and to not stop driving it unless the engine light is blinking. It's time for oil and fluids, etc., dropping it off today as DH is off work. Then big Lostco run and
VV Woodvils and Trippy Tips that have been hanging around UPS store for days. YIPEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
Hugs, Feisty Alice
My first VV Bug, '65, was "The Turd" that had been totaled and fixed once before I got it and while I had it my sister totaled it and another car, fixed it and good as new..... almost. Among the many wonderful things about it, I could push start it, myself, wearing heels, on a decline of only a few degrees. I mean, if you didn't have great spacial aptitude you would have to get out a level to tell there was any decline. Only reason I didn't keep it forever was because I loaned it to some friends to drive from KY to TX. They didn't watch the oil, as instructed, and burnt up the engine on highway coming back. They left it there and someone stripped and burned it. IDIOTS.... my friends.
Feisty Alice
Very good advice. Thanks. I'm glad I was lazy and didn't disconnect the battery. I remember, a few years ago, the shop had to do something, minor, and they said it had to be driven a certain number of miles before whatever reset. I can't remember what it was though. One thing I had wrong with PT KwickKar had the code but didn't know what it meant so I took it to dealer. Can't remember what that was either.
DH's car has a process, from inside car, to reset and does involve inserting ignition key and taking it out during process, if I'm remembering right. It's about 4-5 quick steps but we have to get the manual out every time because we forget.
PT is long, long, overdue for oil and fluids, by time, but not by miles driven. I probably haven't done it in 2 years but haven't put much over 2K miles on since last "formal" check up. I check some fluids every once in a while.
Hugs, Feisty Alice
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Thanks Dave, for the suggestion about AutoZone. I need to pick up a rear window blade so I'll stop there first to see if they will do a check.
Hugs, Feisty Alice
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