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I think I will still install contact points but make them so that I can take one of those small meter units and just plug it into the side of the PV so it's readable while vaping. I will just have to make a custom casing for it.
Still waiting impatiently for USPS... I think the electronics will arrive long before the batteries.
Wow the digi key order is already here.... I didn't realize digi key was located here in MN... Yea!!! Now waiting for my batts from MadVapes.... USPS sucks...
The variable resistors are a lot smaller than I was expecting... I guess with a name like thumb wheel I wall expecting something a little bigger. Oh well I will play with it a little and see how sensitive it is...
They are small, but work nicely. I have the connector, switch, regulator and trimmer all in one slot of a 3-AA battery box. I have to remove the cover to adjust the voltage, but that's ok with me, I don't do it that often.
I am currently working out how I want to mount the POT... I don't want to have to open up the body to adjust. I think I will widen out the existing LED window hole and mount it there. I just need to figure out how to secure it as I cant just glob epoxy on the back side because the center shaft goes all the way through and would get glued into one setting. Unfortunately these don't have any mounting strategy other than soldering the 3 leads to a board. I may cut a small piece of board to mount it to just to have something solid for it to sit against. This would also give me something to glob the epoxy onto...
I will take some pictures of where I am at latter today.
I will take some pictures of where I am at latter today.
Sorry, I got side tracked last night trying to mod some Vortex's and cutting my 24mg juice with VG... I will be home alone this weekend so I will get back to the Weller this weekend and take pics of my progress as I go along. Hopefully my batteries will be in today or tomorrow so I will have more incentive to get moving on this thing. I think I have my strategy figured out. I will have to do some creative epoxy molding to get things the way I want them...
Ok, here are some photos of my progress... My heat shrink tube is way to big... Don't have the batteries yet so I can't test anything before securing it all in place...
My batteries have finally made it to the local post office.. Should have them in a couple of hours..
All right,,, I finally got it working. I had to re-do the trimmer circuit. I had an intermittent short somewhere and it kept jumping up to almost 7V on me! Talk about a nasty taste...
Everything is pretty much as pictured. I haven't completely secured everything in place yet because I still want to add a couple of led's and some voltage test points. But for right now it is rocking great plumes of vape. It even brought some of my clogged up cartos back to life by burning through the gunked up coils...
I love the factory switch on this thing... Slide it back and it can't be turned on by mistake.
I will be adjusting the position of the POT as I want it recessed a little because it is to easy to turn.
Everything is pretty much as pictured. I haven't completely secured everything in place yet because I still want to add a couple of led's and some voltage test points. But for right now it is rocking great plumes of vape. It even brought some of my clogged up cartos back to life by burning through the gunked up coils...
I love the factory switch on this thing... Slide it back and it can't be turned on by mistake.
I will be adjusting the position of the POT as I want it recessed a little because it is to easy to turn.
As my heat shrink was to big I just removed every other one from the regulator and shortened up some of the wires.
Looking good! I really like the Okami regulator. I have another on order from Digikey to rework my 18350 box mod.
I should have read the spec sheet on the regulator a little closer.. The control pin on this model is open = on, I should have looked for the one the the control pin is open = off. This would allow integration of a tactile switch without a mosfet. The setup I am using doesn't really matter as I am switching the main power but for future mods I am going to look for the other version.
Read the data sheet again. It seems you can use some crappy tact switch with this, but note anytime control/enable/inhibit pins are involved you will need to use your master switch to prevent the current leaching they incur. Remember the regulator is now always powered, just not enabled.
So basically to turn it off you need to pull the pin the ground, a standard 'pulldown down' resistor approach should do it. Probably any value from 1k to 10k or so should work. The value you choose will also determine how much current the tact will need to handle. Although I have no idea how to figure this as I don't use control pins.
Now how do we turn the reg on? Again from the datasheet.
So basically we just need to hit the pin with more than 2V to enable it.
Should work. Right? Am I quoting from the model you have?
As far as caps, although I have no hard evidence, it seems that an input cap may in fact help out your batteries and vape times a bit. In this case kind of a little cushion as the PWM circuit pounds away at the battery.
As far as caps, although I have no hard evidence, it seems that an input cap may in fact help out your batteries and vape times a bit. In this case kind of a little cushion as the PWM circuit pounds away at the battery.
I think you sum it up pretty good. My concern initially was how much power would be getting drained when not in use. I will use the control circuit in the future but will add a master power switch. The weller is set up where you don't need the secondary switch as it has a dual action switch so you don't have to worry about it firing in the off position.
With the model regulator I have you would need to use a normally closed switch as it requires a positive voltage to turn it off. This means that there would be an even higher voltage drain when not in use.
With the model regulator I have you would need to use a normally closed switch as it requires a positive voltage to turn it off. This means that there would be an even higher voltage drain when not in use.
I'm confused. Post the exact # of your reg.
I assumed it's this one:
OKR-T/3-W12-C Murata Power Solutions DC/DC Converters & Regulators
If so you could use a more common, readily available, low amp rated N.O. switch wired as per my post.
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