Weekly Contest #57 Win a FREE Tank!!

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Zipslack

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4 -8/25

Anybody here ever see a wire-manufacturing process? Used to be a company about 15 miles up the road that made copper wire (magnet wire) and resistance wire. It's amazing how they can start with 1-inch thick copper and end up stretching/pressing it to make 32 AWG. Impressive automation systems. It was amazingly hot and loud and smelled nauseating (enamel coating for the magnet wire), but they tell me you get used to it after awhile. Wish they were still in business - I knew one of the technicians there and could have gotten handfuls of scrap resistance-wire for free.
 

Uncle

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08/25 Entry #3 . . .


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Most of the technical conversations so far today . . .

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Then again, it's nothing new, since most of the time when it comes to the more advanced "Stuff" about these things (even all the different batteries) I'm like . . .
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So. . .
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glowplug

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5. 8/25 - Ray said it perfectly, but Lithium batteries (in regards to vaping) can be a complicated subject. Some mechanical mods don't have room for a protected lithium battery, almost everyone uses Li-Mn in this case. Li-Mn is "safer", but all batteries are storage containers for condensed energy, like a pack of Mentos in a glass bottle of diet Coke. It's scary when you think about it.

The continuous amp output rating is very important; if you ask the battery for more amps than it can provide you're in the danger zone. Some protected batteries have a low amp limitation, making them unsuitable for the buck-boosting circuitry in many APVs, but not necessarily unsafe. Batteries with protection will simply stop functioning when they go over their limit. Unless you are going for coils under 0.5 ohms (stupid :facepalm:), any Li-Mn battery rated for a continuous 10 amp draw should be OK. This is strictly going by the numbers and not accounting for defective products and poor QC. When buying Lithium batteries, it would be wise to avoid anything with "fire" in the name. AW and Efest are the best bets as well as a few others that may require you do some research as to the application like Panasonic, Sony, MNKE ($$), Orbtronic ($$$), Sanyo, and even Samsung. Anything but XXXXX-fire.
Efest 18650 2600mAh Li-Ion Flat Top Battery
There are others on the market, but 2600mah is very good for a Li-Mn battery. Like many Li-Mn batteries, it's 10C rating is hefty.
I can't address the 2-wraps on mesh, it depends on the wire resistance. Sounds icky, I would go with thicker (lower gauge) Kanthal and make more wraps. JMO, YMMV...



The Eh batteries are OK. More mah is just that, they will last longer. I have the Efest 2600 mah batteries from VVV and EH 2000 mah as well, there is definitely a difference. The longest lasting batteries I have used in my APVs are NCR18650PD 2900mAh (hybrid), rated at 10 amp continuous discharge. There are batteries with higher mah ratings, but not by much.

There are battery protection units like the Vape Safe fuse, Short Stop, 2 cents for safety, and others. Like wearing a helmet while riding a motorcycle, the safety issues are up to the user.

Thank you so much. This is information I can use and understand a little bit. I now know I have acceptable batteries and that I can get a better battery from Ray. I also know what to order.

Now I will have to worry about size. I was going to buy one extra battery at a B&M and tried it in my ZMax. It was just a wee bit too big in circumference. I read somewhere about removing the wrapping to make a battery fit, but I would really prefer not to remove anything from a battery if I can help it. I am going to *guess* that the EFest 2600mAh batteries at VVV will fit? Or do I need to measure? It will be a very tiny discrepancy and I don't know if I have anything that will measure that accurately. If the mAh is higher, is the battery larger? I would think it would have to be. My eGo type batteries are different sizes dependent on the mAh rating. I just hate sending anything back and would like to order the right one. I have no idea how I lucked out with these two batteries. I read, read and read some more then I took best guess when I ordered these. They fit but I want one more. They take forever to charge off my inverter in the truck. It is a 2000watt inverter and powers the microwave as well as charges my laptop with no problem.
 

jac1766

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#2 wow you guys really know how to make a fella feel dumb who knew vaping could be so complicated!!! lol

Vaping can be as simple or as complicated as you wish to make it...
A cpl 1100mah twists, cpl VVV poly pros and mini PTs are a hell of a vaping set up...
Then there are those that chase...The Perfect Vape... who will never stop adding and fiddling with their gear.
I have, perhaps unfortunately, chosen my path...:facepalm:
 
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glowplug

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ICR = LiCoO2 (also called LCO)
IMR = LiMn2O4 (also called LMO)
IFR = LiFePO4 (also called LFP)

If you take away one thing from this thread, remember this: The term "IMR" simply indicates that LiMn2O4 is a major component of the cathode. It does not necessarily indicate that a cell has exceptional rate capability or improved safety characteristics, properties often incorrectly associated with cells with the IMR designation.

From:What exactly does "IMR" mean?
Thread in the CandlepowerForum

They go on into more detail about the differences between the three...

edit: and Schnarph is here with experience on his side. :D
I always seem to get caught posting... :lol:

Thank you as well. This is really helpful too. Now I know what I am buying. And I know I should get IMR instead of ICR. At this point, I am going to leave the P alone. Maybe later. LFP just looks like it would mean something like "left wing party" and I just can't do that. :facepalm:
 

glowplug

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#5 for 08/25

This has been great for me. I have learned so much from you folks today and I am very grateful. I have copied and pasted much of the information so I can review it the next time my fibro fog fills my head and I forget which end is up (luckily my ZMax has protection to keep me from blowing up if I insert the battery upside down). It finally makes sense to me. If I can just figure out why some batteries are too big around for my little PV, then I will feel as though I have this part whipped.

I am not looking for the next bigger and better bright and shiny APV. I want what I have to work consistently so I don't go grab a stinkie in frustration. My clearos do not offer that for the most part. I am replacing them with a few of Ray's tanks. My batteries/APV are just fine for the time being. When something breaks, I will replace it. I will keep reading, asking and learning.

Oh, and I want a Billet Box someday. By the time I can afford one, they will be obsolete. I want one because it is tough, handles abuse and is very simple. It provides a day of vaping and takes very little babysitting. They seem to be so well built. I think I better settle down.
 

somejerk

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So... what's the upside/downside of Ekowool, compared to silica?
It burns at a lower temp... I like the braid (assume it holds form better?)
I'm about to add some 28g kanthal and am curious about wick for my RDA...

I've been wanting to try it!!
supposedly it wicks better.
 
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jac1766

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#5 ... 8-25


I just built a 1.7ohm coil, not sure what size wire 32 I think, 3 wrap around 3mm eko-wool. The flavor is really good but not the vapor clouds I thought. Does the coil need to break in or something?

I know that it's recommended to torch (blue-flame) silica. I don't know if it's the same for Ekowool (which is 95-98% silica)
I have also (from very limited experience) found if I'm running on too low a voltage I get flavor w/o much vapor...

Edit: also... have you checked for hot-spots? (Though that should give more of a burnt-flavor)
 
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