What about the new DNA modders board
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first thing that came to my mind when i saw the e-bay posting
I think the one on ebay is 110mm long, I have this one and use it external, at 90mm it is still large, I guess I could gut it and reduce the size some.
HobbyKing R/C Hobby Store : Turnigy 7 in 1 Mega Meter
I've been into RC's for almost a decade and have never seen those..... well, i dont do flight Rc's...
This one would have been perfect , but the min. 6V requirement seems iffy...
HobbyKing PO Wattmeter 100A
This one would have been perfect , but the min. 6V requirement seems iffy...
HobbyKing PO Wattmeter 100A
From the video I saw from evolv they recommend and use in the video a 11.1v lipo pack for the dna. I don't have a darwin but I think it uses a 11.1v lipo so the 6v min shouldn't be a problem. Sure would like to find a mini watt meter though. I don't have the electronic knowledge to build one.
I've been using Two Li-Po's 20c 1000mah in parallel. They look smaller than the Tenergy you linked to. Don't remember where I got them, some hobby store.
This dna sucks a lot of power to make my old reliable Trustfires drop drastically. I've used them on a variety of DC-DC converters, Boost and Bucks and never seen this happen before.
two 128x32 oled's ebay $6.50 a piece 2pcs 128X32 OLED LCD LED Display Module White 0.91" | eBay
But then you need a programmed smart chip to run the joker
But then you need a programmed smart chip to run the joker
yeah you would need to interface it to a microcontroller, code it and have fun connecting the FFC/FPC connectors
Datasheet info on the dna........not 11.1 volt lipo....just pointing this out so no one will try to power the DNA at 11.1 volts.....
http://evolvapor.com/wp-content/uploads/dna12.pdf
http://evolvapor.com/wp-content/uploads/dna12.pdf
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What you saw in the vid was probably 2-3 cell li-po running parallel....
like retird mentioned, the data sheet doesnt lie
Your right, thanks....What you saw in the vid was probably 2-3 cell li-po running parallel....
like retird mentioned, the data sheet doesnt lie
Let me add this to the conversation of the DNA system (and to cut down on the PM’s) for all the new modders thinking of doing a DNA:
Variable Voltage mods vary the voltage to the atty/carto. We set the voltage for a specific ohm rated atty/carto. We obtain our “sweet spot” vape. So we decide to use a different ohm rated atty/carto, so we again adjust the voltage to get to the “sweet spot” again. That’s the jest of Variable Voltage.
Now to the Variable Wattage (DNA-12 system). Variable Wattage allows you to adjust the wattage to a specific ohm rated atty/carto to obtain that “sweet spot” vape. So we now want to use a different ohm rated atty/carto, we just remove the atty/carto and screw on the new one(different ohm rated), and the DNA automatically adjusts the voltage to maintain the wattage that you were using with the previous atty/carto. You still have your “sweet spot” vape without needing to adjust anything. There is another advantage to Variable wattage. As we vape, the ohm rating of the atty/carto changes with use, and here again, the voltage needed to maintain the wattage setting is automatically adjusted.
Hopefully this is clear as mud….kinda just a short introduction into variable wattage….in a nutshell….
Variable Wattage (DNA) automatically adjust the voltage to maintain the wattage setting you set. ALMOST ANY atty/carto you choose to use (within the rated parameters of the DNA) can just be screwed on and vaped without the need to adjust anything. Some vapers like to adjust the wattage up or down anyway, and you certainly can do that also….
So, with that said, I wish all you new to modding well....and have fun modding.....
Variable Voltage mods vary the voltage to the atty/carto. We set the voltage for a specific ohm rated atty/carto. We obtain our “sweet spot” vape. So we decide to use a different ohm rated atty/carto, so we again adjust the voltage to get to the “sweet spot” again. That’s the jest of Variable Voltage.
Now to the Variable Wattage (DNA-12 system). Variable Wattage allows you to adjust the wattage to a specific ohm rated atty/carto to obtain that “sweet spot” vape. So we now want to use a different ohm rated atty/carto, we just remove the atty/carto and screw on the new one(different ohm rated), and the DNA automatically adjusts the voltage to maintain the wattage that you were using with the previous atty/carto. You still have your “sweet spot” vape without needing to adjust anything. There is another advantage to Variable wattage. As we vape, the ohm rating of the atty/carto changes with use, and here again, the voltage needed to maintain the wattage setting is automatically adjusted.
Hopefully this is clear as mud….kinda just a short introduction into variable wattage….in a nutshell….
Variable Wattage (DNA) automatically adjust the voltage to maintain the wattage setting you set. ALMOST ANY atty/carto you choose to use (within the rated parameters of the DNA) can just be screwed on and vaped without the need to adjust anything. Some vapers like to adjust the wattage up or down anyway, and you certainly can do that also….
So, with that said, I wish all you new to modding well....and have fun modding.....
Question - If I wanted to wire a status LED that would light when the atty was fired.. I assume that would screw with how the dna detects the resistance and make it all wonkey, wouldn't it? How could I avoid that? I'm going to put one in a Boge Revolution V2 and there are LEDS ALL OVER and it would be kinda sad to let them all go to waste. Any way I could avoid that?
In addition, would this be ok to use with the dna, and would the 500 mA usb board I'm buying match up with its charge rate? The specs sheet says that it has a maximum charge rate of 2C, and I have no idea what it means. It seems that quite a few mods use 20c for discharge rate, so I'm good there, but.. What about the charge rate? Sorry, I know I'm asking questions about this elsewhere, but it ended up being a massive post and I'm pretty sure no one wants to read a short novel to get to my questions.
In addition, would this be ok to use with the dna, and would the 500 mA usb board I'm buying match up with its charge rate? The specs sheet says that it has a maximum charge rate of 2C, and I have no idea what it means. It seems that quite a few mods use 20c for discharge rate, so I'm good there, but.. What about the charge rate? Sorry, I know I'm asking questions about this elsewhere, but it ended up being a massive post and I'm pretty sure no one wants to read a short novel to get to my questions.
Brandon can best answer your questions...just go to Evolv web site and click 'contact us" and ask....please post back here what ya find out....others may have the same questions...
OK, here is my layman's attempt at building a DNA w/ usb charging board.....
Thanks to Evolv for building the boards and to Mamu for pointing me to the enclosure..
This mod uses 2- 800 mah li-mn batteries in parallel. It has a 10k potentiometer and usb port on the base of the enclosure. An on/off switch is included to the left of the atomizer 510 connection on the top of the enclosure. The red led light on the usb charging board indicates it is charging, turns green when charging is complete, and is orange when no battery is detected....way cool feature IMO...
Initial test showed 11.9 watts, but there was still a little adjustment on the pot wheel, so 12 watts will be no problem to obtain. However, 8.4 watts is my sweet spot, so all is good.
picture shows the mod next to the Darwins for comparison....
UPDATE: max setting on pot gives 5.8 volts with a 2.8 ohm cartomizer, thus equals (ohm's law) 12.01429 watts.....
Thanks to Evolv for building the boards and to Mamu for pointing me to the enclosure..
This mod uses 2- 800 mah li-mn batteries in parallel. It has a 10k potentiometer and usb port on the base of the enclosure. An on/off switch is included to the left of the atomizer 510 connection on the top of the enclosure. The red led light on the usb charging board indicates it is charging, turns green when charging is complete, and is orange when no battery is detected....way cool feature IMO...
Initial test showed 11.9 watts, but there was still a little adjustment on the pot wheel, so 12 watts will be no problem to obtain. However, 8.4 watts is my sweet spot, so all is good.
picture shows the mod next to the Darwins for comparison....
UPDATE: max setting on pot gives 5.8 volts with a 2.8 ohm cartomizer, thus equals (ohm's law) 12.01429 watts.....
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Nice mod retird. I love that case Mamu used to make the Lexi's. It was a great find.
Your mod looks cool Retird, I actually have a pm in to mamu asking where she sources those boxes, after seeing the discussion about screens for the dna I did a little searching and came across this, it isnt tiny but isnt as large as some other power meters. It also does not have a reading for ohms but it has all the other stuff, and I think it even has a battery reading, although I do not know much about electronics so I have no idea if that could be incorporated or not. I guess I am just posting this to see if the pros think it would work as a screen for the dna. It is 25 bucks but to me it would probably be worth it to have a screen, that is, if it would work and not be too complicated to do. Here is the link, anyone have any idea if it would work?SKYRC RC Model WM-010 High Precision Battery Watt Meter BK210 | eBay
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