What problems are you having with your Pro tank?

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ByeByeCoffinNails

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Mar 4, 2012
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After 20 days in transit (!), my Protank arrived from the US and it lasted a week. I vape 50/50 juice and the VG didn't seem to be getting through. I'd vape about half a tank and find the other half of the tank was a gloopy liquid. I tried removing a top wick but nothing changed. This was the least of my worries as the glass began to separate from the metal and the tank began to leak. I wonder now if perhaps the 'gloop' left in my tank I was trying to vape was a mixture of juice and glue!

I will order another Protank sometime and if it fails, never buy another. I'm sold on the Evod though.
 

ruff

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I think I have one with a vacuum leak as well, good call, I wasn't paying attention to that. Someone here re-glued their protank when the seal came apart. I wonder what kind of glue was used or what kind should be used.



I do the shake as well. I found that a good fling of the mouth piece toward the ground is a good way to rid excess juice in the tube while out and about.


I remember reading that thread about the glass separating from the mouthpiece and if memory serves correctly they used JB Kwik J-B Kwik | Quick-Setting Steel Reinforced Epoxy i think this is what was used
 

daventura

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I vape a 50/50 mix. I have tried the kicked GLV at both 7 and 8 watts. So far...like I mentioned, I have trimmed the silicone cap to fit better around the wicks. I also have tried to "untighten" the atty a bit from the tank.When I dont tighten all the way, their is a gap between the tank and the base (you can see the threads). The problem I have noticed, to get the tank flush with the base you have to really screw it in. So when tightening the base and the tank so they are flush, I think it really puts too much pressure on that silicone cap and wick. I dunno, I am adding this to the list of clearo types that I just dont like.

I think you're throwing too much voltage at it for one.

If I go anywhere above 6 watts, I get burning.

I am also using 50/50.

Why does the base need to be screwed ALL the way in?
Just finger tight is fine.
It just needs to be tight enough NOT to leak.
 

kas122461

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That is the info I have been searching for, tonight my bottom piece started to turn on me, its not leaking yet, but I am going to have to re-glue it at some point my top piece still is in place though. I just read that the top piece, is only held in place with some dbl sided sticky tape.


I remember reading that thread about the glass separating from the mouthpiece and if memory serves correctly they used JB Kwik J-B Kwik | Quick-Setting Steel Reinforced Epoxy i think this is what was used
 
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MsComptrtchr

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No leaking, no burning (this is starting to sound weird . . .) HOWEVER, here's the problem I am having - about 50% of the time, my APVs (eVics and MVPs) will not recognize my Protank(s). I can't determine if it's just one or both (I get them mixed up.) I have tried:

- pulling up the little thing on the end (of the head) with pliers
- I have REPLACED the heads
- I have used airflow controllers
- I have used less juice (I thought it happened when I overfilled it)
- I've adjusted the head and base as well as messing with tightening and loosening
- I have tried all 3 APVs

It seems random - I can't figure out a specific event that is causing it not to be read, but it's driving me nuts. Oh and I'm using EVOD heads to reduce the airy draw. Why are my protanks not recognized half the time? Arggg!
 

New2vaps

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It seems random - I can't figure out a specific event that is causing it not to be read, but it's driving me nuts. Oh and I'm using EVOD heads to reduce the airy draw. Why are my protanks not recognized half the time? Arggg!

I have that issue as well. If I place an EVOD coil in the Protank my mod will not read it. Now what's really interesting is I have a PuriTank which is made for the EVOD heads. First EVOD I placed worked like a champ. Then I replace it for another EVOD coil so I can clean the first one and it will not work any more. The only way my PuriTank will work on any of mods is with a ProTank coil.

I am beginning to think the bases of both the ProTank and the PuriTank are just made for the protank coils.
 

MsComptrtchr

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But a lot of people are using EVOD heads with Protanks. What's weird is now I'm having the exact same problem with my new Kamry X9. The first head wouldn't read (the original head) so I replaced it with an EVOD head and it won't read either - on all 3 of my APVs! But the same heads work in my EVOD tanks just fine. I am so frustrated with these Protanks and X9s - there must be SOMETHING in them that is causing the batteries not to have contact with the head. Grrrrr. The only difference I can see in the Protank-style heads is that the pin is longer. How would that make a difference?

I have that issue as well. If I place an EVOD coil in the Protank my mod will not read it. Now what's really interesting is I have a PuriTank which is made for the EVOD heads. First EVOD I placed worked like a champ. Then I replace it for another EVOD coil so I can clean the first one and it will not work any more. The only way my PuriTank will work on any of mods is with a ProTank coil.

I am beginning to think the bases of both the ProTank and the PuriTank are just made for the protank coils.
 

devaspawn

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Oct 31, 2012
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I had to remove one of the flavor wicks and SLIGHTLY lift the rubber ring on the coil head to allow the juice to flow easier. Before that I got burnt juice. It definitely has an airy draw. I really like my high capacity clearomizers and I like my homemade Green Apple. Green Apple kills some plastics though so pyrex seems like the natural solution. Grimm Green has a video that shows how easy it is to rebuild the coil head so it seems like the direction to go. It's inexpensive as far as "rebuildable" glass tanks concerned so it's worth it.
 
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