What the hell. New to vaping HELP.

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rmk_kelly

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Apr 4, 2014
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I have only been vaping about a month and Kanger tanks have been working great for me. Just fill and vape with consistent clouds and really no issues with the three aerotanks i have been using.

I use the Kanger Protank Mini 2 and they are easy to disassemble and reassemble for rinsing between flavors. I also have different heads for each of my flavors.
 

69CamaroSS

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Vaping vs analog draw style is something that you'll figure out quickly. If you want more throat hit or vapor, you simply hit longer not harder like with an analog. I often double hit (think hot-boxing an analog). I'll be blowing the first hit out of my nose while taking a long slow second hit through a fully heated coil which greatly increases TH and vapor production while eliminating the need to turn yourself blue sucking too hard and risking flooding the coil or drying the wicks out as easily. ;)
 

edyle

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I asked the Brick and mortar clerk about the ceramic coil and was told they take a long time to warm up so if your using an ego style battery you have to hold the fire button for 4 seconds or so then release it and then fire and puff. The eGo style stick batteries usually have a 7-10 second max fire time to protect against shorts. Also in cold weather they are harder to get warm enough to vape.
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ceramic wick is still new, and not in commercial production

the b&m guy didn't know what you were talking about and he 'improvised' - sales pitch.

you can hold the button down to start warming up the coil before you vape; depends on your setup. it's not some kind of norm or anything; on a high resistance coil, it might be appropriate; warm up the coil because big coils might take longer to warm up.

eGo type batteries and tube mods have a 10 second cutoff timer in case of accidental firing like if your battery is in your pocket and you sit down some where and the button unintentionally gets pressed down continuously; don't want to get a rocket in your pocket pants.

If you are in colder weather obviously a coil needs more power to get hot.
 

edyle

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I'm starting to think dual coils are more of a marketing scheme than anything, they just burn more juice and make you buy new tanks and so on. My PT2 works just as good if not better than my PT3

A tank might cost $5 to $30 and last indefinitely.
The replacement coil for the tank will cost a dollar; if you replace the coil every 3 days and toss the old one, that means you're spending $100 a year on coils.
Then people started rebuilding those coils instead of tossing them!
So now they start making dual coils; pretty hard to rebuild both coils by hand; but heck no problem, people just rebuild 1 coil out of two anyway; no big loss; in fact the dual coil heads are bigger so they're easier to work with I guess - more space, less risk of wire shorting out on the sides etc.
 

Tom Fuller

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ceramic wick is still new, and not in commercial production

the b&m guy didn't know what you were talking about and he 'improvised' - sales pitch.

you can hold the button down to start warming up the coil before you vape; depends on your setup. it's not some kind of norm or anything; on a high resistance coil, it might be appropriate; warm up the coil because big coils might take longer to warm up.

eGo type batteries and tube mods have a 10 second cutoff timer in case of accidental firing like if your battery is in your pocket and you sit down some where and the button unintentionally gets pressed down continuously; don't want to get a rocket in your pocket pants.

If you are in colder weather obviously a coil needs more power to get hot.

That's one of the more frustrating parts of being a vape noob. Folks just make sh?$ up.


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Tom Fuller

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As I have been learning more and experiencing more with these machines. I found an issue with the pin on the bottom of the heads. Or better described the oring securing the pin and the leads from the coil. The flooding issues I was experiencing had nothing at all to do with how I was vaping but more to do with the moving tip and getting lucky when screwing on the tank.

I replaced the atty head again but this time used a cotton swab to apply a abut if e-juice to the oring around the pin at the bottom of the head. This has resulted in being able to draw as hard or soft as I want and have zero flooding. I found the dry oring was gripping the leads so that installing it on a battery meant the pin rotated and created a gap to allow flooding.


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Tom Fuller

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All 3 of my tanks had the exact same problem with the oring at the bottom of the head. All three work very well now. I wish the folks selling this stuff would be required to know what they are selling in order to be a distributor. I was given soo soo many different stories by B&M clerks. Anyway. I have spent near 150.00 on tanks before figuring out there was just dry orings on the head. Is the carto just a big wick?


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Caridwen

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All 3 of my tanks had the exact same problem with the oring at the bottom of the head. All three work very well now. I wish the folks selling this stuff would be required to know what they are selling in order to be a distributor. I was given soo soo many different stories by B&M clerks. Anyway. I have spent near 150.00 on tanks before figuring out there was just dry orings on the head. Is the carto just a big wick?


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Pretty much. It's batting around a coil that hold approx 1-1.5 ml of liquid. The tanks surrounding the cartomizer can hold 3-5 ml of additional liquid depending on size.

I find them very easy to use. Depending on the liquid you use and pg/vg ratio the cartomizer can last 5 days to a week or two. I happen to vape high PG clear liquids so my cartomizer lasts longer than many before it needs to be changed.
 
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