What tools you use for wrapping coils (coil jig, or metal rods, or etc.)
- Thread starter snackwitch
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
I use the Hobby Lobby Artistic coil winder myself. It's also available from Amazon. I bought my Micro Torch from Harbor Freight and will go back there for the ceramic tweezers mentioned in this thread.
Absolutely, you don't need to wind directly off a spool. Good imagination there. My motto, have pin vise will travel (well, along with the Dremel).
I love twisted small gauge…and large. I can jig it, yeah. But winding as close to the origin of the wire gives you lots more control over the precise amount of tension (and angle) you apply. For the wind to be efficient, it needs to be uniform. If not effectively shorts and it gets hot on ya. Heat to the air is not vapor my friends. And it's really cumbersome to pull away from a jig. For heavy gauges I use a small vise grips clamping one end of the wire, sit comfortably forearms on my legs and just place the vice grips under one knee. Pull slightly away steadying the screw driver or pin vise with both hands as you wind and you get all the tension that you need. Lots more than a gizmo and the awkward ergonomics that requires.
Don't understand why make things more complicated than they need to be.
Also I don't get why so many people are still torching. It's been written about everywhere here that this degrades the wire since super_X started tension winding. Annealing the wire just starts the oxidation process. Regardless we end up pulsing anyway. Why not do it with the virgin wire and get it right the first time?
All I'm sayin' folks. Don't have to be made more difficult.
After you try one of these and get the point of adhesion down and consistent end to end you will notice a radical coolness take over your vape. That's juice cooling the coil.
Straight up explanation — VAPORIZATION.
Electrical efficiency. And that's what ya want.
Thanks skimmer.
Good luck.
Last edited:
I tend to use a small screw driver like the one that Riptrippers uses, that or a poker thing from a hobby knife set
Thanks CMD. School of hard knocks. We're all on the curve somewhere. Just tryin' to spare the folks.
Good luck.
I'm pretty much fed up with buying vape ready atomizers. Kanger and Aspire are both creating heads with faulty silver solder connections to non-resistive legs. 8 hours of vaping and a coil is toast. The solder joint breaks down and finally reads open. I just sent an email to Kanger outlining the problem. I'm sure they are aware if they have any vapers in house. Maybe they want us to replace a coil every day. It's more revenue for them.
Not me. I have a Genesis RSST and just ordered a Kayfun 3.1. I have 100 or so Kanger used heads in zip locks that I can micro coil. I have a spool of 28ga and a spool of 32ga Kanthal and the coil winder. There are several vendors who sell post insulator grommets in bags up to 100. I can replace them every time I recoil to prevent burning.
Not me. I have a Genesis RSST and just ordered a Kayfun 3.1. I have 100 or so Kanger used heads in zip locks that I can micro coil. I have a spool of 28ga and a spool of 32ga Kanthal and the coil winder. There are several vendors who sell post insulator grommets in bags up to 100. I can replace them every time I recoil to prevent burning.
Last edited:
I found this coil maker on Amazon and am waiting for it to arrive. In the meantime, I use my old steel vintage crochet hooks and knitting needles (really tiny ones used for lace making).
Also I don't get why so many people are still torching. It's been written about everywhere here that this degrades the wire since super_X started tension winding. Annealing the wire just starts the oxidation process. Regardless we end up pulsing anyway. Why not do it with the virgin wire and get it right the first time?
I do it to burn off whatever contaminants from manufacturing are present on the wire so I am not inhaling whatever that is nor getting it into my juice. Whatever it is, it's nasty.
So many are caught up in the technical arrangements of how to put something together, but forget to think if it's healthy or not. Maybe it doesnt make sense from a technical point of view, but it makes sense from a health perspective.
And you know this how?
One of the main reasons I'm here. Always concerned about my own neck nasca, for sure. But I also write and post though to help others with their technical concerns. And technically correct would have to include this issue, being pulsing should evaporate off any indicental contaminants as effectively as annealing wire without adding any combustible residuals to the wire (carbonized hydrocarbons) while you're at it.
It is that carbonization which would interfere with optimal electrically induced surface bonding that's the technical concern I was talking about. To gain electrical efficiency that inhibits shorts, dry burns and a bad vape (I won't say bad health unless one is inclined to keep avoiding healthier alternatives).
But burning the wire does nothing much but damage it and introduce well, contaminants. At least that would be my informed take having often spoken with the manufacturer Sandvik and distributors frequently. I always recommend due diligence regarding products that we use. Perhaps that should apply to information sources. Myself included.
I can live with just the alumina oxide layer. I wouldn't ask anyone to do anything I wouldn't do myself. The method I introduced doesn't forego annealing anyway. It's just done more directly and in a way benign and beneficial to outcome of the wind (tension winding).
So I'll do a mythbusters here to add that Temco Industrial Power, the most well known supplier to vaping, as well as the manufacturer do not add or use any lubricants or other additives to the raw surface of Kanthal A.
Kinda makes you wonder nasca why all these videos proselytizing on the benefits of burning the crap out of resistance wire? When a simple phone call from any of them would answer the question that it's not necessary. Furthermore, that they don't report how pre-oxidation may compromise the wire.
(I am amused at times nasca that some video makers acknowledge that it's not necessary, but that they do it regardless.)
Just sayin'.
Good luck nasca. And thanks for your thoughts.
I'm going to just use a Q-TIP to wrap. Its what my friends use and it works fine and nail clippers lol
And you know this how?
One of the main reasons I'm here. Always concerned about my own neck nasca, for sure. But I also write and post though to help others with their technical concerns. And technically correct would have to include this issue, being…pulsing should evaporate off any indicental contaminants as effectively as annealing wire without adding any combustible residuals to the wire (carbonized hydrocarbons) while you're at it.
It is that carbonization which would interfere with optimal electrically induced surface bonding that's the technical concern I was talking about. To gain electrical efficiency that inhibits shorts, dry burns and a bad vape (I won't say bad health unless one is inclined to keep avoiding healthier alternatives).
But burning the wire does nothing much but damage it and introduce…well, contaminants. At least that would be my informed take having often spoken with the manufacturer Sandvik and distributors frequently. I always recommend due diligence regarding products that we use. Perhaps that should apply to information sources. Myself included.
I can live with just the alumina oxide layer. I wouldn't ask anyone to do anything I wouldn't do myself. The method I introduced doesn't forego annealing anyway. It's just done more directly and in a way benign and beneficial to outcome of the wind (tension winding).
So I'll do a mythbusters here to add that Temco Industrial Power, the most well known supplier to vaping, as well as the manufacturer do not add or use any lubricants or other additives to the raw surface of Kanthal A.
Kinda makes you wonder nasca why all these videos proselytizing on the benefits of burning the crap out of resistance wire? When a simple phone call from any of them would answer the question that it's not necessary. Furthermore, that they don't report how pre-oxidation may compromise the wire.
(I am amused at times nasca that some video makers acknowledge that it's not necessary, but that they do it regardless.)
Just sayin'.
Good luck nasca. And thanks for your thoughts.
I'd rather burn that crap off --whatever it is-- it's smells foul and tastes horrible. I cant imagine that it's healthy to inhale. I have not noticed any drawbacks to doing so. I can wrap coils just fine after torching. only takes all of 30 seconds. I'm in this game for harm-reduction, so I'll do what I can to reduce the chances of harm. I also use glass and organic cotton and avoid polycarbonate and brass for the same reasons, even if the internet echochamber says "it's fine."
Whatever your rationalization is, that's fine for you. But not for me. I'm not exactly trying to start some speculative debate, I'm just stating a reason that people like myself prep their wire before use.
Last edited:
I just want to add that a binocular headband/magnifier is really awesome for getting in close to see what you are doing no matter which way you coil/wick/etc. I got these from American Science and Surplus (love that site.. its fun to browse and the descriptions are hilarious: BINOCULAR HEADBAND MAGNIFIER
I don't rationalize. When I state an opinion, I state it as such. When I state a fact, I state its source.
I urge everyone to exercise due diligence.
I don't ask anyone to do anything I wouldn't ask of myself.
I encourage everyone here to attempt to make a proper electrical coil. As best as nature and man's science knows how to make. I believe (opinion) this is the best approach to enjoy the best vape (and the least risk to us).
Opinions may vary. Facts don't.
I respect every person's right to decide for themselves.
I wish you good luck.
You know you can recoil the kanger heads...right? I chose not to go with NR-R-NR, and just stick to straight 32 gauge kanthal... one solid piece of wire with no soldiers. The only two issues that people have with that is 1) it raises the resistance a bit, and 2) the heat could go to the bottom insulators. I found that kanthal heats from the center out... even for non micro coiled. When I build a coil with an RSST using silica, I always see the heat start at the coils themselves, and I've never seen the coil legs get red hot unless there's a short. So, the heat issue isn't really a problem.
Now, I rebuild my kanger heads with cotton and 32 gauge kanthal. I have only one kanger mini protank, and I've had the same two kanger heads for about 4 months. When they get worn, I rebuild. if you have a whole ziplog bag full of used kanger heads, you should be set for life.
So I'll do a mythbusters here to add that Temco Industrial Power, the most well known supplier to vaping, as well as the manufacturer do not add or use any lubricants or other additives to the raw surface of Kanthal A.
Kinda makes you wonder nasca why all these videos proselytizing on the benefits of burning the crap out of resistance wire? When a simple phone call from any of them would answer the question that it's not necessary. Furthermore, that they don't report how pre-oxidation may compromise the wire.
(I am amused at times nasca that some video makers acknowledge that it's not necessary, but that they do it regardless.)
Just sayin'.
Good luck nasca. And thanks for your thoughts.
You should burn it off for many reasons. Even if they don't use lubricants on their Kanthal a-1, you're subjecting yourself to whatever is used in their factory. During transportation, spooling, sitting in a warehouse, etc. You dry burn it for the same reason you wipe off the top of a Coke can. Sure, Coca-Cola doesn't contaminate their cans at the factory, but I've heard of supplyers warn ALWAYS to wipe off the top of the Coke Can. You know how many times I've went to a store and saw a sticky can of soda? That wasn't done at the factory, that was done after it was canned and shipped. I've also heard stories of refrigerant leaks in the delivery trucks, people taking breaks on a pallet of coke and "passing gas" and just laughing about it.... It altered my thoughts about sanitizing just a bit before use.
As far as torching it goes.... Torching reduces the tension of the wire. It makes it less springy. IT makes it easier to coil. Also, it makes it not bend as much when it does get hot. Take a straight piece of kanthal, and torch it.. you will see it bend slightly. let it cool down, straighten it, then try the same test.... it won't move. I did this test again just now. I used 24 gauge kanthal. a higher gauge might move due to gravity, but the initial heat does warp the coils a bit. When I wrap a coil, I like to torch it first... if it moves while it's in the atomizer, it might cause uneven heating, sagging, or who knows what inside of your atomizer.
Thanks for the tutorial. Appreciate the effort. No sarc. Thanks..
I don't want to complicate this discussion. But none of this things you just mentioned are necessary to creating a proper electrical coil that just works and will give you a great vape.
However, torching a wire will make getting that more difficult. Perhaps even unattainable if the wire is too degraded. Or it may prematurely kill your coil. Don't take my word for it. The effects of torching wire are pretty well documented on this forum. Also the urban legend of why we must do it.
Short answer: The real reason torching became essential and extremely popularized is so that we can create microcoils which are orders of magnitude more efficient than the hand winds being discussed on this newcomer thread.
You need it to induce the super efficient effect of a pseudo-continuous-short characterized by a microcoil when it approaches efficiency. Breaks in that perfect wind such as caused by imperfections in geometry or deformation of the wire induced by torching itself could cause those hot sections you refer to and reduce wind efficiency. Yes, you're right Neal, heating up the vape. Why some lowΩ cloud chasers think they make great coils.
Second answer: There is an straightforward way to make a virtually perfect microcoil using the physics principle of tension. The method I illustrated above and which may be accomplished with some greater difficulty on a jig. However, both may be severely compromised by pre-torching.
I have no problem if people prefer to whack their wire. That's their prerogative. But, as a consumer I'm going to need the facts. And so far I haven't heard any.
Help me ease my doubts what specific residues of the common examples you mention like dust, etc would not be vaporized by pulsing? Some no doubt would be carbonized onto the wire but nothing approaching the amount induced by simultaneous combustion by torching (relatively clean) or worse by a lighter, say.
To say otherwise would mean real contamination by the producer. And I saw no evidence of that provided on this thread.
My question, are we really burning anything away? Or, adding to it?
If the wire is that soiled that its obviously contaminated then that is not a normal production. And again not the typical supply from a responsible supplier of Kanthal.
And suppose it was, the wire, covered in goo. You spilled your shake on the spool. What's so much a big deal that an alcohol wipe couldn't resolve in seconds. What justifies damaging the wire by torching it?
Again, are we adding or taking away, really?
Like I said, I'm I consumer too and I'd really like to know.
Thanks.
Good luck.
I micro torch my coils for the same purpose that NealBjr stated. Sometimes, I torch before using the coil winder and sometimes I torch it in tweezers or pliers after it's coiled. Either method stabilizes the wire and keeps the coil from springing outward. The legs stayed aligned for insertion into the atomizer.
I have a 100' spool of Temco 32ga Kanthal wire that's bright and shiny and squeaky clean. I also have a spool of 28ga Kanthal wire that's darker silver and dull. Who knows what is used in the factory to promote wire handling or reduce machine part wear.
My 28ga 100' spool from Lightning Vapes has the brand name Yuaze heat stamped on the spool. If you rub your finger on the wire in the spool you come away with a silicone feel as you rub your fingers together.
I'll continue to anneal with the torch for dual reasons.
I have a 100' spool of Temco 32ga Kanthal wire that's bright and shiny and squeaky clean. I also have a spool of 28ga Kanthal wire that's darker silver and dull. Who knows what is used in the factory to promote wire handling or reduce machine part wear.
My 28ga 100' spool from Lightning Vapes has the brand name Yuaze heat stamped on the spool. If you rub your finger on the wire in the spool you come away with a silicone feel as you rub your fingers together.
I'll continue to anneal with the torch for dual reasons.
Last edited:
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
