What's the secret to bigger puffs?

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JulesXsmokr

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:laugh:

Very amusing because it's true. You either stay at step 5 and proceed to 5a, b, c, etc. or move to step 6. I'm probably at 5b right now. Enjoying it immensely and not sure if I will end up at 5z or step 6. I'll probably continue on step 5 for a while as I want to leave no stone unturned, and frankly have a nice investment in the "right" gear for step 5, and remain super curious about all aspects of rba's and rda's. Thank you for this most excellent explanation.

Step 5r, is when you get to name the coil you made after yourself.:vapor:
 

Ryedan

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I've been vaping for a couple of months now and I basically love it but I really want some bigger clouds of vapor. Not insane clouds necessarily, but bigger than what I'm getting now.

I understand that more volts == bigger vapes but ... anything above about 4.2 v results in big clouds of nasty burnt taste.

I have several Vision Spinners and also a Vamo V3. The Vamo goes all the way up 15 watts but ... anything about about 6-6.5 watts tastes like I'm smoking rubber insulation.

I vape with Kanger Evods and a Kanger Protank.

It all depends on how much more vapor you want. I've never used a Protank, so I don't know exactly what you're getting out of it now. I've used a few different clearos though and from you saying this one doesn't go past 4.2V I think I get the idea.

Have you ever tried a cartomizer? In your situation if I had not I would. You don't even need to have a tank to try it. Just get a plain carto, say a Boge 2.0 ohm, but any one will do as long as it's below about 2.4 ohms. Baditude has a great tutorial on carto tanks here. Just take the info on cartos and leave out the stuff on tanks. If you don't like the filling method he uses, check out Pbusardo's videa through the link on that page. You have to fill them properly or they will burn right a way. I can go up to almost 5.5 volts typically with catros and they put out noticeably more vapor than clearos do. This would be a really cheap experiment too. If you like this then you can get into tanks which means you don't have to refill it often.

If that does not do it for you the next step is RDA's. You don't need to go really low ohms to get what you want as you are not after ultimate clouds. I have the feeling micro coils would do you just fine. I use them on a IGO-L at a bit over 1 ohm and it makes very good vapor.

HTH.
 

DaveP

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Before I started spending a couple of hundred dollars on hardware, I'd look for a vendor who lets you pick the mix and order a juice I liked in 50pg/50vg, 60pg/40vg, and downward toward 100% VG and vape it. You can blow a super cloud with a Protank and 100% VG. It's much cheaper to do it in software than in hardware.

Vaperite does 50/50. Maybe that will give you what you are looking for. Most vendors don't offer pick your mix features anymore.
https://www.vaperite.com/
 

Ryedan

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I have a 1.2 ohm micro coil with a cotton wick set up in a Kayfun Lite. It's on a ProVari Mini set at 3.7 volts. I like heavy VG juices...usually 70/30 or 80/20. The build is very simple and I don't have to worry about any battery mishaps. The taste is amazing and there's more vapor than I care to exhale....

Now that's what I'm talking about :thumbs:
 

dustinmj

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Try these, you won't regret it...

For 50/50 juice (I was using baker juice at the time):

32 gage kanthal 8 wraps microcoil on a 1/16" drill bit with peaches and creme okra cotton yarn with one strand removed trimmed and fluffed after all put together. I vape this at 8 watts, any more and I scar the rubber insulator. The coild ends up being 2.8 - 3.2 ohms.

For 100% VG (My tanks all have Virgin Vapor Absolute line in them right now):

30 gage kanthal 10 wraps microcoil on 1/16" with the same wick as above. I vape this at 12 watts. The coil ends up between 1.8 and 2.2 ohms. I can crank the vamo all the way up to 15 watts on this though I don't stack batteries so not really hitting the 15 here. I've hit the amp limit on the provari plenty of times with this setup without scarring or burning the insulator.

In my experience fat coils (eg 28 gage with mass wraps) take way too long to heat up for me (on a vv), and just don't produce the vapor. Personally I think it's a wicking issue. I can either use less wick which produces less vapor longer, or more wick and have it get gummed up really quickly. 3 strands of the peaches n creme cotton seems to be the perfect size to wick well in the protank heads if fluffed correctly, but with wider coils I don't think the inner portion of the coil is getting much juice.

I also spent plenty of time playing with lower ohm, duals (yes in a kanger head), and piggyback (one coil inserted into another with twisted legs) and my vv devices just aren't capable of pushing the amps needed to make anything like this perform worth a darn.

When I wrap a coil I make sure to pinch with tweezers and torch it first until it's glowing then let cool or quickly quench it by dipping it in water. Then I put it back on the 1/16" bit and use the bit to line up the coil in the kanger head (the 1/16" bit sits perfectly in the kanger head slots). The additional plus here is that I can keep the legs a bit long so that I can pull them tight and wrap them around the drill bit to keep them taught while I replace the insulator and nipple.
 

Mad Scientist

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So ... the secret is to achieve the lowest possible resistance/ohms?

It's no secret. More power in contact with more juice + more air = more vapor.

Power is easy. Up the wattage on a VW device or lower the resistance of the build on a mech. More juice in contact with the applied power is a combination of a larger wick, good wicking performance and a good build (thicker wire or close wraps or both, and remember you can use more wire of the same diameter with nichrome over kanthal and end up with the same resistance). More air is a right sized air hole in the right place.

To "get it" can take some experimentation as you get a feel for how build parameters affect performance. Only way to move forward is to start trying. As a start, try to rebuild some of your kanger coils using 30 AWG wire on a 3mm wick and you will see a difference right away.

Once you get that down and can modify to suit your tastes, try an rba and go from there. The sky's the limit lol.
 

arilen

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Try these, you won't regret it...

For 50/50 juice (I was using baker juice at the time):

32 gage kanthal 8 wraps microcoil on a 1/16" drill bit with peaches and creme okra cotton yarn with one strand removed trimmed and fluffed after all put together. I vape this at 8 watts, any more and I scar the rubber insulator. The coild ends up being 2.8 - 3.2 ohms.

For 100% VG (My tanks all have Virgin Vapor Absolute line in them right now):

30 gage kanthal 10 wraps microcoil on 1/16" with the same wick as above. I vape this at 12 watts. The coil ends up between 1.8 and 2.2 ohms. I can crank the vamo all the way up to 15 watts on this though I don't stack batteries so not really hitting the 15 here. I've hit the amp limit on the provari plenty of times with this setup without scarring or burning the insulator.

In my experience fat coils (eg 28 gage with mass wraps) take way too long to heat up for me (on a vv), and just don't produce the vapor. Personally I think it's a wicking issue. I can either use less wick which produces less vapor longer, or more wick and have it get gummed up really quickly. 3 strands of the peaches n creme cotton seems to be the perfect size to wick well in the protank heads if fluffed correctly, but with wider coils I don't think the inner portion of the coil is getting much juice.

I also spent plenty of time playing with lower ohm, duals (yes in a kanger head), and piggyback (one coil inserted into another with twisted legs) and my vv devices just aren't capable of pushing the amps needed to make anything like this perform worth a darn.

When I wrap a coil I make sure to pinch with tweezers and torch it first until it's glowing then let cool or quickly quench it by dipping it in water. Then I put it back on the 1/16" bit and use the bit to line up the coil in the kanger head (the 1/16" bit sits perfectly in the kanger head slots). The additional plus here is that I can keep the legs a bit long so that I can pull them tight and wrap them around the drill bit to keep them taught while I replace the insulator and nipple.

Sorry I ment to quote you, that is how I vape except I use cotton balls, flavor and vapor is awesome with a micro coil, I have use 28g but it heated to slow , I went to 30g, and life is good :beer:
 

stumpfreeman

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The newer Aspire tanks and heads produce better vapor than Kanger devices. Maybe try those before you go sub-ohming. And you don't necessarily have to go sub ohm to get better vapor, a 1.5 ohm coil will do just fine for most applications. Micro coils are also a great way to get better vapor without going sub ohm. Whatever you do, do your research. Just building a coil can be dangerous if you end up with a hard short the first time you fire it up.
 

abstractcousin

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i have been in your situation here is my oppinion and i am not completely sure about this but here it goes!..

you wont get clouds out of a vamo, or most vv/vw devices. its just a fact of life. No matter how good the VV/VW device is, it has an ohm limit, and you need lower ohms to vape at higher wattages. but there is more to the story than this..

lets say you have a 1.3 ohm kanger head on a vamo where you can vape at 5v. you are lookin at 19 watts. thats pretty good and should produce a large cloud right? well it doesnt because airflow and amps have a lot to do with cloud size. if there is more air flow to the coil, there will be a bigger "cloud". now, too big of an airflow hole is also a problem but that is another story. clearomisers and cartos can only supply a limited airflow due to design. also more amps will increase the amount of heat, so with the right airflow you will get a bigger cloud than the same setup at lower amps. a 1.3 ohm 5v setup will have about the same wattage as a 0.6 ohm 3.7 setup (around 19.5w).. HOWEVER, the first setup mentioned will have 3.8 amps, and the second one will have 5.2 amps. This is why people run mechanical mods that can only produce about 3.5v with a sub ohm rebuildable atomizer.

now, some people try to run micro coil RBA's on vamos and they encounter problems. the vamo doesnt work well with RBA's because of its regulation in the circuit board that causes regular errors.


if you want to get a big "cloud" you will need higher amps, more airflow to the coils, and consistent power.

i had a vamo, and all i can say is.. its a wonderfull VV device, but if your lookin for clouds, your gonna be a lot happier with an RBA that reads out at about 0.6 ohms (do not go below 0.4.. its not too safe) with a good amount of airflow hitting the coils, and a mechanical mod powered by a safe battery.

hope this rambling helped:/ !!
 

DaveP

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I have to say that I'm not into big clouds of vapor, just like I wasn't into big clouds of smoke when I was hooked on tobacco. If I get as much or a little more vapor than I got from my ultra lights I'm happy. It's more about taste and sufficient vapor to reproduce that experience for me.

If I'm out, I'm likely to reduce my wattage a little for stealth.
 
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