When should you consider a repair kit?

[Rictic]

I ask because I recently purchased a voltage indicator from RTDvapor after purchasing a 14500 tube mech mod. I had also decided to remove the kick from my Grand and go back to mechanical simplicity since I've gotten pretty good at building coils with pretty consistent results/resistances. When I checked my Grand, under load with an RM2, I was getting a consistent 3.5 reading with a fresh and relatively new AW IMR high drain 18650 battery. My little tube mod was giving me a 3.7 with a fresh 14500 AW IMR, also with an RM2 load. Checked the voltage indicator with a Provari and I was getting accurate voltage readings under the same load.

So when I considered my grand, I had just cleaned it out with warm water and mild dish detergent. I also used a file to gently scrape the positive contact before wiping it down again and applying a dainty dab of noalox. It was clean.

My Grand is my baby/go-to mod, so ever since I got it back in January of this year I have been cleaning it at least every three weeks the same way described above.

I know a 0.2 voltage difference isn't much, and I honestly am still loving the hell out of the vape I'm getting out of it without the kick, but could this indicate I may need to get a repair kit soon? Or is this normal and I'm just ranting a wasting time ? (if the latter is the case I hadn't been on the REO threads in a while and just wanted to say hi to you all ).

 

[darkzero]

That's a good question I'm curious too. I've been meaning to order rebuild kits for both my mech Reos just to have on hand. I've purchased extra springs & a button but it doesn't seem like I will ever need them, probably the same for the rebuild kits. My only guess is if tbe 510 connection ever leaks. I'm not sure if the 510 seals can deteriorate over time for certain juices but it doesn't seem like any of mine would fail anytime soon. I've only had mine for a few months now so maybe those who've had theirs for a long time could add their experiences.

 

[Bob57]

I haven't needed a kit but have one just in case.
About every mechanical mod you test for load voltage drop you will get a different reading, I've done a few test with a good meter at the terminals of the RM2 on 3 Grands. Your gonna have some drop compared with a no load test of the battery and the lower the resistance of the coil the more drop depending on the battery. Other factors are the types of metals the mod and the contacts are made of. A near perfect mod would be made up of silver for all electron flow including the switch contacts / firing pin "or tab" as on the Grand.
Anyway for the heck of it I just tried a Grand that only a couple weeks old and never been cleaned to see what it would do.
Battery no load 3.96, coil 1.6 ohm, voltage at terminals under load 3.62, so 0.3 or 0.34 drop.
Retested after cleaning the contact and applying a dab of goop,, 3.65 under load or 0.31 drop.
Wow I gained 0.03 volts!

I don't think you need to rebuild yet,,






And hello!

 

[unloaded]

If you are using the tank type voltmeter I assume you need an adaptor screw it on the Reo? If so are you using it on the other mods too? I wouldn't be surprised if it adds to the loss.

 

[Awkwardly Awesome]

If you are using the tank type voltmeter I assume you need an adaptor screw it on the Reo? If so are you using it on the other mods too? I wouldn't be surprised if it adds to the loss.

The adapter does cause more voltage drop. I tested the theory out on my Sigelei 19. Without the adapter, I was getting 3.7-3.8v under load with a 4.1v charge on the battery. With the adapter, I was getting 3.55-3.6 under load with a 4.1v battery. My REO was reading out at like 3.5-3.6 under load and it concerned me but this REO I am using is 1.5 years old, and never had a rebuild done. Once I cleaned the contacts it felt like it was hitting stronger, I just never tested it again with an inline tester.

 

[fullsleeve]

im kinda weird so I ordered a rebuild kit when I ordered my reo. figured it couldn't hurt to have one on hand as a back up

 

[redeyedancer]

A rebuild kit is nice to have . I see people rebuilding there mods after a short from rbas . its not needed in most cases a spring and a button is all that is needed . You only need to rebuild the mod if you have broken your gasket . The buttons in most cases can take two shorts before you need to toss them . If you have a short and melt your button remove it clean the button with a razor knife. pull the pin or push it through turn it 180 degrees and reinstall it .

 

[NicoHolic]

I also bought a rebuild kit, a couple of o-rings, four extra bottles, and a couple of RM2 post screws when I bought my REO and RM2. For me, that's the time to buy.

 

[chohan]

I check my V-drop at the posts of the rm2 with a multimeter.
Hold the prongs straight down on the Phillips screw slots on the top and press the fire button.

For mine, running a 1.2Ω coil
fresh battery 4.17
underload 3.79
V-drop .38

aw 18650/1600

I find that quite respectable for a mechanical mod and it's puts me right in the wattage range I enjoy.
I vape from 12w down to 9w. Still a satisfying vape, usually pull the batt at 3.7 volt. At work the other night I noticed that number actually went lower to .35 vdrop when my batt was at 3.9. I don't know what's up with that but I wasn't complaining.

As for the repair kit, for me that's more for peace of mind. I ordered one with my reo along with some other goodies like spare tube kits, etc. since that's just the way I roll.

 

[dhomes]

I'm buying a reo this week (actually, just waiting for robert to rep,y to my PM)

Im getting a repaird kit but only becuase i intend to 24k gold plate all metal parts, that should certainly help with the voltage thingy

I dont live in the usa (im in latin america), gold prices and service are cheap so i should be able to do all this for below $20 bucks

 

[ltrainer]

Could you explain how this helps. The firing pin will be coated with gold but the stainless will still be there. The electricity will be following through the gold but won't it also be flowing through the stainless. And being that the stainless will be magnitudes great mass than the gold won't the improvement be very, very little. I'm asking here because I don't know anything about electricity. I'm just going by whats in my head intuitively. If it was solid gold then I can see how it might help. And gold being so soft won't the contact area of the pin just wear through very fast. Help me out with this. Thanks.

 

[malkuth]

Could you explain how this helps. The firing pin will be coated with gold but the stainless will still be there. The electricity will be following through the gold but won't it also be flowing through the stainless. And being that the stainless will be magnitudes great mass than the gold won't the improvement be very, very little. I'm asking here because I don't know anything about electricity. I'm just going by whats in my head intuitively. If it was solid gold then I can see how it might help. And gold being so soft won't the contact area of the pin just wear through very fast. Help me out with this. Thanks.

When I was taking electronics classes, they told us that the electrons flow on the OUTSIDE of the conductor, not the inside. Therefore, if something is plated with gold, you would have the conductivity of gold, not the underlying material.

 

[NicoHolic]

When I was taking electronics classes, they told us that the electrons flow on the OUTSIDE of the conductor, not the inside....

That's called "skin effect," at it happens at higher frequencies, not DC (except during on/off rise/fall times).

 

[ltrainer]

That's called "skin effect," at it happens at higher frequencies, not DC (except during on/off rise/fall times).

\

So what does that mean for this application?

 

[NicoHolic]

It means metal not on the surface of the switch also conducts direct current. Don't discount the total gold plating though. Although it's thin, there's more than you think there because of the area on the outside of the strip.

 

[Awkwardly Awesome]

I say if it is only going to cost him $20-30, let him do it. I just hope he tests the voltage under load before and after to see what the result it. It would be interesting to see if it helps or not.

 

[_more_]

I have a Mini repair kit and next will be a Grand repair kit. I do like being prepared...

 

[FeistyAlice]

I like to keep a repair kit for each type metal REO. But back when we were using Resurector cartos we did have occasional spring collapses so I like to have extra springs for just in case. Besides the very first Mini from very early mid 2010 run, I picked up on classies, and not hitting as well as it should have and first Grand, first run, I had an atty short on that melted button, but still usable (That's back when we were using xxxxfire batteries, too. IMRs just coming on the scene.) (Those two went to REO spa as no rebuild kits back then.) the few rebuilds I've done have been on REOs I've gotten from classies. I'm not sure just why MY REOs, purchased new, hold up so much better; maybe it's how I use and clean them. I'm not a button masher btw. That action can eventually make the firing plate lose springiness or bend out of shape. Also screwing down attys/cartos too tightly can deform or break fitting gasket.

A few attys/cartos that have been known to cause gasket issues, including ver 1 ERA, luckily I knew about the issues before using them and either didn't use or did simple modification, like o-ring on ERA post to keep from cranking in down too far.

DH is more of a button masher and cranker downer than I. There does seem to be a bit of difference in the old REOs he used for weeks to months. I imagine they would need more frequent rebuilds if he used them a lot for many months. He carried Woodvils a lot. Not much affected by button mashing and gasket less prone to damage from cranking down atty carto.

I used my most used Mini for almost two years before I ever knew about filing the firing pin. But it and others got frequent baths and renoaloxing. I'm using my "most used" right now. It never gets put in cabinet. It still has everything original including hex spring screw, skinny tube, bottle, cap, and cap o-ring. It's old by REO standards. And there is no reason to rebuild it. (DH has hardly used it.) The original bottle is getting really soft.

Feisty Alice

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 2

 

[FeistyAlice]

BTW..... I most usually give Metal Anodized Mechanical REOs a finish dip in high percentage isopropyl, canned air blow out, and dry in sun or rice. A few that I didn't do that for and just let air dry have formed a little rusting around spring foot. Those get spring removed, spring and screw cleaned and noalox under spring and screw hole.

I guess some of my posts sound arrogant. I stay at Drury Inns. (Makes me almost as smart as if I stayed at Holiday Express.)

Feisty Alice

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 2

 

[supertrunker]

I have a rebuild kit - springs - screws - buttons galore and everything! I make gaskets all day - if i cannot make one then i will silently walk outside and hang myself from the nearest tree!

I have melted a few pins - but thru sparking from the firing pin and not shorts in an atty. Now i just Noalox the crap out of them and don't worry about it!

T