Why am I getting NO airflow from protank 2 on VAMO 5!?

[Bob92985]

I've got 2 protank 1s and 2 protank 2 and they work fine on my iTaste VTR and HAD been working fine on my VAMO 2 (until about 3 months ago) and I though the answer to this might be to get a VAMO 5. I just took it out of the box and slapped a protank 2 on it and its WORSE! Zero, and I mean ZERO airflow. Why is this happening? It used to be that I thought the protanks were a bit airy (and this was on VAMO 2s) But now its like they are completely blocked off. I've tried cleaning out the threads on both the mods and the tanks thinking that there was some buildup causing a blockage but that didn't help a bit.

How can I make these things work again?

 

[Bob92985]

I just tried putting a iClear 30s on the VAMO5 and it works perfectly so it must be the tanks if that helps.

 

[Rickb119]

These will take care of the problem. Kanger Airflow Control Valve

 

[Bob92985]

Will those fit protank 1?

 

[Bigflyrodder]

I know that if I crank my PT3 down on my Vamo V5 the draw is very tight as the air intake holes are at the top of the 510 post. I can still snug the tank and it works fine but if I crank it down...not so much.

 

[Rickb119]

Will those fit protank 1?

I would think so. If you click on the reviews, #5 states using them on both Protanks and Protank2's..

 

[Bob92985]

I would think so. If you click on the reviews, #5 states using them on both Protanks and Protank2's..

Ty much. I've just ordered a couple

 

[Rickajho]

What coils do you have? Are they the newer replacement coils with the clear-ish color center post insulator? If they are that's the source of the problem. They are made of a softer material than the original white center post insulators and it's easy to compress them and completely block air flow.

How do you know that's the problem? Take the PT off and draw - normal air flow right? Mount the PT on the VAMO - completely blocked.

Air gets into a PT through that hole in the very center of the coil assembly, on the bottom. Air gets to it by passing between the coil and the inner wall of the PT base. And what fits in there? The coil - with the center post insulator. All it takes is screwing your PT onto any PV too tight, the center post insulator gets compressed by the center post, and the flow of air is completely blocked.

First, try pulling the metal center post out a very small amount to decompress the insulator. DO NOT twist - that slot in the center post isn't meant for a screwdriver. Twisting the center post will only break the coil legs. Try it again on the VAMO, being careful to not screw the PT on too tight.

If it's still a problem you need to remove the coil from the base and take a look at it. Run your fingernail over the base of the coil. If it's cacthing on the insulator it's still a problem. The insulator shouldn't be any "fatter" than the coil assembly it goes into or the center post fitting into it. You may need to shave any excess insulator off with an X-Acto knife.

 

[Bob92985]

What coils do you have? Are they the newer replacement coils with the clear-ish color center post insulator? If they are that's the source of the problem. They are made of a softer material than the original white center post insulators and it's easy to compress them and completely block air flow.

How do you know that's the problem? Take the PT off and draw - normal air flow right? Mount the PT on the VAMO - completely blocked.

Air gets into a PT through that hole in the very center of the coil assembly, on the bottom. Air gets to it by passing between the coil and the inner wall of the PT base. And what fits in there? The coil - with the center post insulator. All it takes is screwing your PT onto any PV too tight, the center post insulator gets compressed by the center post, and the flow of air is completely blocked.

First, try pulling the metal center post out a very small amount to decompress the insulator. DO NOT twist - that slot in the center post isn't meant for a screwdriver. Twisting the center post will only break the coil legs. Try it again on the VAMO, being careful to not screw the PT on too tight.

If it's still a problem you need to remove the coil from the base and take a look at it. Run your fingernail over the base of the coil. If it's cacthing on the insulator it's still a problem. The insulator shouldn't be any "fatter" than the coil assembly it goes into or the center post fitting into it. You may need to shave any excess insulator off with an X-Acto knife.

Yeah they seem to be the newer kind with the clearish rubber ring. I do notice how they expand a bit but I've already tried easing some of the tension of it so they dont expand and it didnt help. I'd rather not take a knife to it and risk slicing that ring and have to pitch that head for ruining it. I appreciate your advice but I dont want to tinker with things. I'm at the point now with vaping that I just want stuff that works rather have to rig things. If the Airflow bases don't work I think it's time to look into new tanks.

Speaking of which. Any recommendations that aren't carto tanks? I'm not a fan of carto tanks at all. Tried em, too much of a headache worrying about keeping em wet and not enough juice getting pulled into the carto on my draw. Yes, I've also tried the little punch tool that widens the holes. Just too much of a pain hehe>

 

[Skauth]

Yeah they seem to be the newer kind with the clearish rubber ring. I do notice how they expand a bit but I've already tried easing some of the tension of it so they dont expand and it didnt help. I'd rather not take a knife to it and risk slicing that ring and have to pitch that head for ruining it. I appreciate your advice but I dont want to tinker with things. I'm at the point now with vaping that I just want stuff that works rather have to rig things. If the Airflow bases don't work I think it's time to look into new tanks.

Speaking of which. Any recommendations that aren't carto tanks? I'm not a fan of carto tanks at all. Tried em, too much of a headache worrying about keeping em wet and not enough juice getting pulled into the carto on my draw. Yes, I've also tried the little punch tool that widens the holes. Just too much of a pain hehe>

For my money, iClear tanks blow Protanks out of the water performance wise. Particularly the 30S tank, though it is plastic. If you're really into glass and/or bottom coil, check out the Aspire Nautilus, also head and shoulders better.

Worthy of note that I haven't tried the latest Kanger, the Aerotank.

 

[Bob92985]

For my money, iClear tanks blow Protanks out of the water performance wise. Particularly the 30S tank, though it is plastic. If you're really into glass and/or bottom coil, check out the Aspire Nautilus, also head and shoulders better.

Worthy of note that I haven't tried the latest Kanger, the Aerotank.

You know I've got a 30s but i dont think it out performs the protank. I've heard people say the same thing you have but mine doesn't seem to hit as good. What wattage do you vape yours on?

 

[TaylorPlayer]

I have had luck when I get a bad wick just flipping the rubber gromet over on the metal pin so it is facing the other direction. Works great and let's just enough juice into the wick for better flavor and a MUCH better hit. I do not have to do it on all of the wicks, just certain ones. If I get more than a couple bad hits, I flip it.

 

[coalyard]

For my money, iClear tanks blow Protanks out of the water performance wise. Particularly the 30S tank, though it is plastic. If you're really into glass and/or bottom coil, check out the Aspire Nautilus, also head and shoulders better.

Worthy of note that I haven't tried the latest Kanger, the Aerotank.

Well I own both, and I will agree. The Iclear 30s does blow a PT2 with stock coils out of the water. Rebuilt PT2's, it isn't even close; not even the same ballpark. I got 2 KFL+ clones and a couple of drippers recently. I am keeping my PT2's. I am PIFing my Iclear tanks to my brother.

 

[Skauth]

I vape my 30S at 9.5 and occasionally up to 12 watts, with 40/60 fruit liquid. I also changed the tip to a slightly wider bore.

Also, yeah, rebuilt coils are another story. This for me was more of an out of the.box battle.

RBAs > all

 

[Bob92985]

I have had luck when I get a bad wick just flipping the rubber gromet over on the metal pin so it is facing the other direction. Works great and let's just enough juice into the wick for better flavor and a MUCH better hit. I do not have to do it on all of the wicks, just certain ones. If I get more than a couple bad hits, I flip it.

Can you explain flipping the gromet please?

 

[Rickajho]

Can you explain flipping the gromet please?

That doesn't fix completely blocked air flow. It only fixes complaints some people have about the coil running dry during a hit. Flipping over the silicone cap on the center post changes liquid flow to the coil, but won't correct this kind of blocked air flow problem.

 

[Bob92985]

That doesn't fix completely blocked air flow. It only fixes complaints some people have about the coil running dry during a hit. Flipping over the silicone cap on the center post changes liquid flow to the coil, but won't correct this kind of blocked air flow problem.

We're talking about the iClear 30s in that respect.