Why did my T3S leak?

[Maylar]

I bought some of the T3S upgrade heads for my T3 tanks and installed one Monday night with a tank of my favorite juice. It worked perfectly Monday night and all the next day. Tues night I unscrewed the tank to charge the battery (eGo 650 mah), then reassembled before going to bed. This morning I wake up to find the clearo had spewed its entire contents all over my nice wooden PV stand

I had done absolutely nothing to disturb the atty head other than remove and reattach the clearo to the battery. This isn't rocket science (well, it shouldn't be anyway)... what the hell happens to these things, and how do I prevent this catastrophy?

Grrr.

 

[State O' Flux]

This isn't rocket science (well, it shouldn't be anyway)...

Some days, it seems to be don't it? As a big fan of the 'S', looking forward to your determining the problem, and cure for same.

C

 

[djezewski]

It could be that little stem came loose. Mine comes loose all the time when I change juice.

 

[LeoRex]

Remember that there is a hole in the bottom of that tank. The only thing between you and a mess is that sealed tank. If the seal is broken (base loose) the pressure equalizes and drip drop goes your juice.

Take a look at the wicks... are there any gaps at all between the wicks and the side of the coil? Even a tiny gap can let air from the coil chamber (which is exposed to air from both the top and bottom) bubble in.... and juice out.

 

[State O' Flux]

If Mylar doesn't mind, I have a quick add-on T3S question for anyone that knows. What are the 3 little blind holes in the T3S base for?

Thanks,
C

 

[LeoRex]

Ventilation. They allow airflow to the base of the coil. Without those holes, the coil will be choked off.

 

[State O' Flux]

Ventilation. They allow airflow to the base of the coil. Without those holes, the coil will be choked off.

That would make perfect sense, if the holes went through the base, but they don't. This T3S is a very hard draw.

 

[SAG]

Could it be from unscrewing your base from the tank that the coil (which is screwed into the base) loosened? With mine, I check to make sure the coil is screwed in tight to the base before attaching to the filled tank. Hope this helps.

 

[LeoRex]

Could be a defect... one of the characteristics of the T3s is the light, airy draw.

 

[Alter]

I assume there is not enough wicking in the coil and/or too short of flavor wick(s). Once the silicone cap goes back on there will hole between the bottom of the cap and wick causing it to leak through the bottom. Replace the flavor wick with a longer 1mm wick off a old top wick atty. I just cut the old wicking and keep it but throw away just the coil so I can replace the flavor wicking. A lot of people throw heads away not realizing that it could just be the flavor wick that needs to be changed. If it still leaks then try 1.5 or 2mm flavor wick.

 

[Maylar]

Could it be from unscrewing your base from the tank that the coil (which is screwed into the base) loosened? With mine, I check to make sure the coil is screwed in tight to the base before attaching to the filled tank. Hope this helps.

The thing is, I only unscrewed the base from the battery. The base to tank was not touched.

I assume there is not enough wicking in the coil and/or too short of flavor wick(s). Once the silicone cap goes back on there will hole between the bottom of the cap and wick causing it to leak through the bottom. Replace the flavor wick with a longer 1mm wick off a old top wick atty. I just cut the old wicking and keep it but throw away just the coil so I can replace the flavor wicking. A lot of people throw heads away not realizing that it could just be the flavor wick that needs to be changed. If it still leaks then try 1.5 or 2mm flavor wick.

This was a brand spankin' new T3S coil/head fresh from the package with one day's use. Wicks don't fail that quickly.

I'm wondering if screwing the base to the battery could somehow change the way the coil assembly seals to the tank? I need to examine this thing under a magnifier I guess...

Grrr...

 

[djezewski]

I'm not an expert but I have never seen it happen. I know you have the T3s but when I got a couple brand new T3's (the whole clearomizer) both of them leaked. Luckily I had bought spare coils and put those in. The poster who mentioned putting a flavor wick from an old top coil is correct. I did it to one of them that was leaking and it owrked..the other one unfortunately tore apart and ruined it as I tried to use cotton yarn to top it off...unfortunately I ruined the later as I burnt the coil in it trying to dry burn. learned later on don't try to dry burn cotton.

 

[Alter]

The thing is, I only unscrewed the base from the battery. The base to tank was not touched.



This was a brand spankin' new T3S coil/head fresh from the package with one day's use. Wicks don't fail that quickly.

I'm wondering if screwing the base to the battery could somehow change the way the coil assembly seals to the tank? I need to examine this thing under a magnifier I guess...

Grrr...

Gezzz....These things are made by the millions and the quality control isn't there. It doesn't matter if its brand new..I've got attys that are brand new and have had the coil mangled into a lump of wire. There is rarely a new atty I get that doesn't require you to clean it, repair to align the coil nicely or tighten it up properly. People who assume these coils are plug and play are in for a rough ride of hotspots, burnt throats and just general nastiness. I don't even bother with using the stock coils anymore cause they are poorly made and chitty, I just rewick it from brand new before I put myself through the agony of wasting good juice on a lousy stock wick.

 

[Maylar]

Well I looked at the T3S under a magnifier and it looks to be perfect. The wick is plainly visible and full like any of the other heads that I have. All the seals are good. I'm gonna fill the tank with one of my "less precious" juices and see what happens.

 

[Maylar]

Gezzz....These things are made by the millions and the quality control isn't there. It doesn't matter if its brand new..I've got attys that are brand new and have had the coil mangled into a lump of wire. There is rarely a new atty I get that doesn't require you to clean it, repair to align the coil nicely or tighten it up properly. People who assume these coils are plug and play are in for a rough ride of hotspots, burnt throats and just general nastiness. I don't even bother with using the stock coils anymore cause they are poorly made and chitty, I just rewick it from brand new before I put myself through the agony of wasting good juice on a lousy stock wick.

The average vaper isn't going to disassemble a new part fresh out of the package and change the coil and wick. Expecting that this will be necessary should be unaceptable.

I work in the world of high volume manufacturing and I can attest that if a company's quality control is so poor that the customer has to rework a product before using it that company won't be in business for long.

 

[State O' Flux]

I work in the world of high volume manufacturing and I can attest that if a company's quality control is so poor that the customer has to rework a product before using it that company won't be in business for long.

Yet, for some reason, it seems to take a while for the majority of end users to figure out that a product is bad. I'm guessing people unable or unwilling to identify and bring to the vaping public's attention, a low quality product - or bad copy of a quality product.

 

[rasmith1959]

Another common problem with the T3 is that the center tube from the mouthpiece may not have a good seal either. A fix for this is to take a scratch awl (or an ice pick) and insert it into the tube at the mouthpiece end and roll it around to flare (enlarge) the end of the tube. The tube is straight when manufactured, but if a flared tube was used there wouldn't be any chance of an air leak as it would have a better seal.

 

[State O' Flux]

Another common problem with the T3 is that the center tube from the mouthpiece may not have a good seal either. A fix for this is to take a scratch awl (or an ice pick) and insert it into the tube at the mouthpiece end and roll it around to flare (enlarge) the end of the tube. The tube is straight when manufactured, but if a flared tube was used there wouldn't be any chance of an air leak as it would have a better seal.

That idea seems like it might serve to loosen the tube from it's press fit in the top of the tank. Wouldn't using a drill bit to countersink the ID to the edge of the OD be a better idea? But then again, that might only serve to make the edge so sharp that it cuts the seal on the coil head. Perhaps allowing for a, oh... say a .010"~.015" flat edge would be a good compromise. Your thoughts?

 

[Maylar]

So, I cleaned and reassembled my first T3S and filled it with juice. Once again it leaked out overnight. Put a second one on and this one gurgles badly. <Sigh>

I bought 4 of the upgrades and a pack of extra coils. Dunno if I'm just unlucky that the first 2 are buggered or what but it's mega frustrating. I do have a plan though...

MT3, a T3S head, and the cure for a leaky clearo.. to be administered at 8 yards.

 

[Susaz]

So, I cleaned and reassembled my first T3S and filled it with juice. Once again it leaked out overnight. Put a second one on and this one gurgles badly. <Sigh>

I bought 4 of the upgrades and a pack of extra coils. Dunno if I'm just unlucky that the first 2 are buggered or what but it's mega frustrating. I do have a plan though...

MT3, a T3S head, and the cure for a leaky carto.. to be administered at 8 yards.

What keeps T3 from gurgling, flooding and leaking are the top wicks. Pop the shaft from the head and remove or add wicks until it stops leaking.
Personally I love the Vapeonly BCC. Since the connector is sealed, it has no chance (or very little) of leaking.
A PBusardo Review - The Vape Only BCC - YouTube
This video shows how to remove wicks, but adding is exactly the same in all bottom coils. If you don't have silica you can use boiled butchers thread.