have you ever tried the MNKE imr's? i personally use aw imr's, but heard that the MNKE bats are better for higher amps.
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have you ever tried the MNKE imr's? i personally use aw imr's, but heard that the MNKE bats are better for higher amps.
I concour once you get a genny setup right ie get the airhole size just right for your preference make a kickin wick and wrap it just right vape nirvana. I think once you hit a properly setup genny with your favorite juice, and see how the flavor comes thru your done. After that moment of getting that great vape you actually see judt how muted cartos and clearos really are for flavor. I love the fact that I never have to worry about a bum carto or dry hitting clearos, and i am spending pennys a week if that to upkeep my atty.vapdivrr:8581165 said:
Never tryed those of all the research ive done the samsungs had the best C ratings and amp draw. I really dont notice a difference in the vape using the AW 18350 or the sammy 18650. Where the sammy really shines is on dual coils and just the fact of knowing your voltage isnt flucuating on a low ohm high drain setup.vapdivrr:8581196 said:
As always, use what works for you. I like the versatility of VV/VW, because I regularly change how I vape throughout the day. That isn't easy to do with a mech mod. But I don't need to "feel better" about a year-old Provari, and I do agree the vape is not the same as pushing 14+ watts. I tend to vape at 8-10 watts, so I'm not exactly in the "extreme vaper" category.
That's amazing battery life. I've never seen more than two days life from an 18650.
Well said.
The whole Genesis thing has happened in a year... It passed me by because I got hooked on HH357 atomizers (yeah at $20+ a pop) after fiddling with the coil/wicks...
I think a lot of vapers saw the $ savings in an rba in the long run, and the flavor was great when done right.
Yet I don't think they saw the potential of sub 1.0 Ohms at that point ( I may be wrong about that).
but in my case I was jazzed by the improvement in flavor I get from the HH357...I still love them, and VV VW has been the cats meow. There's another hybrid atomizer (AMG b/f) that i use modeled after the HH357, and the Aero... imo the best flavor you can get out of conventional atomizers.
The flavor and volume of vapor on a sub 1.3 Ohm genny wicking right is better.
I admit to being a hedonist when it comes to vaping gear, and thank God the VW Zmax's didn't cost too much; I've been through half a doz Provari's (sold most) in a few years, not to mention my Reo's.
I think a lot of vapers saw the $ savings in an rba in the long run, and the flavor was great when done right.
Yet I don't think they saw the potential of sub 1.0 Ohms at that point ( I may be wrong about that).
but in my case I was jazzed by the improvement in flavor I get from the HH357...I still love them, and VV VW has been the cats meow. There's another hybrid atomizer (AMG b/f) that i use modeled after the HH357, and the Aero... imo the best flavor you can get out of conventional atomizers.
The flavor and volume of vapor on a sub 1.3 Ohm genny wicking right is better.
I admit to being a hedonist when it comes to vaping gear, and thank God the VW Zmax's didn't cost too much; I've been through half a doz Provari's (sold most) in a few years, not to mention my Reo's.
For me the focus is on those low low resistances...
(When I first saw the Hybrids (Genny and Batt) I thought... why ? They don't have any VW regulation whats the point?)
Now I know why...
I think Hybrids are the current wave... and of course mechanical stand alone devices...
Is there a difference between say a Paps 22 and a Precise+ ? Is the Precise able to take the very low resistances?
When you price out the new mechanicals and a high end genny, you're talking big bucks.
(When I first saw the Hybrids (Genny and Batt) I thought... why ? They don't have any VW regulation whats the point?)
Now I know why...
I think Hybrids are the current wave... and of course mechanical stand alone devices...
Is there a difference between say a Paps 22 and a Precise+ ? Is the Precise able to take the very low resistances?
When you price out the new mechanicals and a high end genny, you're talking big bucks.
...a Provari?
I guess I'm just alone in this, but I can notice a clear difference in a battery drop of .1v on sub 1ohm coils, and it takes me an hour or two to get an 18650 down to 'trip to the charger' town.
I finally got a coil going on the Cobra; 4 wraps 32g 1.9 Ohms... at 4 volts its got good vapor... but the flavor is not as brilliant as what I'm getting with the iHybrid.
I think there may be other factors variables to consider (like how well the wick is wicking and if the coil is firing evenly) and i need a lot more work under my belt to say for sure though
I think there may be other factors variables to consider (like how well the wick is wicking and if the coil is firing evenly) and i need a lot more work under my belt to say for sure though
he was talking about a mechanical mod, rather than a provari.
Somewhat on topic, can anyone tell me about these new mechanical devices like the Poldiac, Gus, Caravella, etc.?
I wonder;
I assume they are different from what I know as "mechanical" like Reo, like Precise and fancy "3.7" devices that just shoot straight power from the batt without regulation ?
I also presume the newer ones for geni's have like brass material and stuff that makes it not mess up when firing ultra low resistances or having a short?
Oh, what about the GGTS? or other GG batts... can they handle ultra low?
I wonder;
I assume they are different from what I know as "mechanical" like Reo, like Precise and fancy "3.7" devices that just shoot straight power from the batt without regulation ?
I also presume the newer ones for geni's have like brass material and stuff that makes it not mess up when firing ultra low resistances or having a short?
Oh, what about the GGTS? or other GG batts... can they handle ultra low?
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ukeman, are you serious or just trolling?
a mechanical is... well.. mechanical.
i really dont understand the confusion, or the question behind the confusion.
a mechanical is... well.. mechanical.
i really dont understand the confusion, or the question behind the confusion.
i think for the most part a precise/caravela/poldiac/gus and ggts are fairly similiar, although the newer ones may be just a little more efficient. now they might be all measured in terms of getting to 100 percent efficiency from contacts. i do not own one of these devices as of yet, although i just won a lottery pic for the caravela. the mechanical mod that i have now is not in a class with any of the above mentioned. any mechanical mod can achieve super low resistances, but only the hi end quality ones can achieve this with greater efficiency.
Not kidding; I think I read somewhere that sub 1.0 Ohms fired constantly as a norm at 3.7 volts is going to cause big problems electronically and I'n not talking about an amp limited VV like a Provari or other VV VW which has protection shut offs...No one ever considered that a SB or a whatever was going to be used that way... the lowest they could go is dual coil cartos and the like..Anyway that's what i thought.
Like i said in the OP I never paid attention to Geni's until now (after flubbing my first attempts a yr ago) and stood with VV and hybrid atomizers (HH357) ... lowest would be 1.5 Ohms.
We're talking a different ballgame.
Like i said in the OP I never paid attention to Geni's until now (after flubbing my first attempts a yr ago) and stood with VV and hybrid atomizers (HH357) ... lowest would be 1.5 Ohms.
We're talking a different ballgame.
so really? a Precise would handle it? a GG?
Lots of folks called these over priced when you could get the same effect from a sub hundred dollar device and a conventional atomizer.
I mean these newer devices cost hundreds of dollars... not to mention a high end geni... I am thinking they are designed to handle and power ultra low resistance geni's.
I may be missing the boat here...
As mentioned before, yes, they can handle it. They're mechanical. They don't care what resistance your coil has... they just shoot voltage through it. Any mechanical will do that with any coil; the only difference will be that, given the same batteries, some will push very slightly more voltage through it than others.
No mechanical is "designed to handle and power ultra low resistance geni's." They're all just designed to stream voltage from the battery to the other end of the mod.
You're thinking in terms of mods with electronics in them, with their wattage limitations and voltage ceilings and resistance minimums. That stuff just doesn't apply at all to mechanicals.
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Yes I know.. that's why the question...
i.e. for the sake of discussion, you take a mechanical like a Reo, a good solid dependable "3.7" device... if you were to imagine it were a tube and put a DID on it with a coil at say .8 Ohms, which is what is going on a lot today, but on like a Gus or Caravella...
would it - 1.handle the load? 2. have the built-in variables that a Poldiac has i.e. that may (because i don't know about these things) optimize the vape.. like silver coated brass thingies etc.?
You are asking the wrong questions about mechanical's, it's not if it can handle it, it's if the battery can handle it! The battery, and it's protection circuit, or lack thereof, can handle it. With a mechanical it's all about what the battery can do, nothing more, nothing less! If you overload the battery, you've got problems because there isn't anything else to limit what it can do!
Some mechanicals will transfer a little more of that 3.7 volts to the atty, because of the resistance of the mod itself. That's going to be the only difference between mechanicals as far as power to the atty goes.
The difference between an expensive mechanical and a cheap one is going to be things like workmanship, looks, and possibly features like air control. They're all going to push approximately the same voltage to the atty, and no mechanical is going to have "built-in variables that ... optimize the vape," other than to possibly have lower internal resistance, allowing more of that 3.7 volts coming from the battery to make it to the atty. And the difference there between the cheapest full mechanical and the most expensive is going to be very small.
As Sawlight said, they can handle the load. A single wire could handle the load of carrying 3.7 volts a few inches; it's not going to be a problem for a mod.
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A true mechanical mod has no wires, no circuits and the button is integrated mechanically as part of the mod. So because of this, the only limitations in the mod come from the battery itself.
The materials used for the mod can only add resistance of the power from the battery. Better materials and tighter connections to these materials can decrease this resistance to a minimum. you wont get this benefit from a cheaply made mod with inferior plated metals and loose threaded connections.
The Super-T sub forum, has many threads explaining the science behind all this, and why the Precise was designed the way it was, even down to the rhodium coated contacts.
A mechanical mod is only as good as its weakest link. In my opinion that's why hybrids were made, to eliminate that 510 connection, one less link in the chain.
The materials used for the mod can only add resistance of the power from the battery. Better materials and tighter connections to these materials can decrease this resistance to a minimum. you wont get this benefit from a cheaply made mod with inferior plated metals and loose threaded connections.
The Super-T sub forum, has many threads explaining the science behind all this, and why the Precise was designed the way it was, even down to the rhodium coated contacts.
A mechanical mod is only as good as its weakest link. In my opinion that's why hybrids were made, to eliminate that 510 connection, one less link in the chain.
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