Why is my provari telling me I have low battery @ 3.7v?

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illitirit

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I know this has to do with something like voltage sag or voltage drop, but I am not certain the reason or causes for it or even know what these terms mean.

I have a provari v2.5 and a RSST with a 1.5ohm coil

On a fresh battery charge, that my xtar vp1 tells me my battery is @ 4.18.

When i put the fresh battery in the provari with RSST, the battery reads 3.9 / 4.0 sometimes, but mostly 3.9.


When my provari will absolutely not fire anymore, as in the battery is completely dead and the provari just wont work....I put that battery in my Xtar vp1 and it shows 3.73v

Isnt the battery termination of the provari like 3.2v?

If anyone could help me understand this that would be great. Im either guessing its my batteries ( efest 18500 1100mah v2) or my RSST.

When i was on carto tanks i never noticed these things.
 

eltranced

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Your batteries should measure out at 4.1 - 4.2 volts coming off the charger. The Provari begins blinking at 3.5 volts to advise a battery change. Anything different then either the Provari's ohm meter is off or the charger's is off. My bet would be the charger's is off, but its hard to say with full confidence.

why not suggest a multimeter for full confidence!! and also remind them about the safety so that their jaws dont get blown away... mkkk?
 

The Ocelot

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Your batteries should measure out at 4.1 - 4.2 volts coming off the charger. The Provari begins blinking at 3.5 volts to advise a battery change. Anything different then either the Provari's ohm meter is off or the charger's is off. My bet would be the charger's is off, but its hard to say with full confidence.

Fresh off the charger both of my minis read 4.2v, but 4.0v to 3.9v under load, usually the latter. I wish I didn't know what that meant. i started vaping to quit smoking, not become a rocket surgeon.

ETA: I just did an experiment. Two minis, each have a Protank on them.

#1 (Her name is Blemini Cricket)

Without anything on top, the battery charge read 3.6v
Her Protank read 2.7Ω and she was set at 4.7v
With the Protank on, the remaining battery reading fluctuated between 3.4v and 3.5v, before settling at 3.5v (I imagine she will blink rather soon)

#2 (Her name is Bounce)

Without anything on top, the battery charge read 3.8v
Her Protank read 2.5Ω and she was set at 4.3v
When I put the Protank on it read: 3.7v

I'm not consuming a whole lot of power with my set-ups. I don't know anything about smart stuff, but I wonder if it's possible that when the ProVari checks the resistance of what's attached, the battery check reading would reflect the remaining charge if you continued to use the device with the resistance of what it just checked, if that makes sense.

Moving down the path of I have no clue what I'm talking about: Could it be that if you have a device on it that puts a (relatively) big load on the battery the ProVari says, "I'm blinking now, because I don't have enough charge left to do what you want." But when you take off the topper, the battery charge is higher, since it doesn't have to factor in how much power it will have to produce. I don't know how your's (OP) being dead would fit into my sieve theory.

Feel free to laugh at me, I'm going to go play with the pixies.
 
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happydave

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fresh off the charger it should read 4.1-4.2 volts. fully discharged it should read about 3.7 volts. This is for PROTECTED batterys. the provari has some built in protection and that might be set at 3.2 volts. but if the battery is protected then the manufacture programmed it to cut off at 3.7 volts. its not really a bad thing, it will improve the life spawn of the battery and you don't get much after 3.7 volts anyways unless your running a variable voltage system but even then the battery wont last long from 3.7 to 3.2 volts. remember E over I - R so if your running a battery at
4.2 volts on a 1.8 ohm coil = 9.8 watts of power
3.7 volts on a 1.8 ohm coil = 7.6 watts
3.2 volts on a 1.8 ohm coil = 5.6 watts

basic run down of ohms law.. you have a garden hose and there is water going though it. the water pressure in the hose is like the Voltage. the speed the water is moving in the hose is the Amps. and the Resistance or Ohms is back pressure caused by friction. if you know the 2 of variables like the V and A you can calculate the R. much like how you can calculate one side of a triangle if you know the length of the other 2 sides and the angle at which they meet. the other thing i see a lot is that people talk about WATTS like its a unit of heat.. this is incorrect the watt is a unit of power the joule is a unit of heat however thanks to the metric system they convert directly.
1 watt = 1 joule/sec
or
1 joule = 1 watt.sec

One joule is approximately the energy required to heat one gram of dry, cool air by 1 degree Celsius

so when we are using ohms law to figure out watts what we are really looking at is POWER over TIME and this is what really matters. below 3.7 volts the battery can not supply enough power over time to make it worth your while so your better off recharging it and getting a longer life spawn. Fun Fact: 7.9 watts is 0.01 Horsepower! think about that next time your having a vape!
 
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Baditude

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fresh off the charger it should read 4.1-4.2 volts. fully discharged it should read about 3.7 volts. This is for PROTECTED batterys. the provari has some built in protection and that might be set at 3.2 volts. but if the battery is protected then...
Provari's use IMR unprotected, high drain, safe chemistry batteries. Right, illitirit ??
 

happydave

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ever owned a provari so i cant tell you why the battery voltage would change when you change the atomizer.. not really a fan of variable voltage anyways most VV systems cant handle a 1.5 ohm coil. 4.2 volts at 1.5 ohms means the Amps is 2.6. Speed is distance over time. and we think of the Amps like the Speed... so your putting 4.2 volts of pressure though 1.5 ohms of friction at 2.6 amps of speed. amps is the speed which the battery is discharging the pressure and some battery's cant handle loosing pressure this fast and get real hot and "vent" (vent that means they burst open and off gas) the circuity inside of the VV devices may also not be able to handle that much pressure at that amount of speed and you may catch the circuit on fire. luckily there is a breaker installed in the VV devices that cut power before you catch the thing on fire. (just hope that breaker works... they don't always work) 2.6 Amps does not sound like a lot. most house hold outlets you can pull about 20 amps from with out issue. but people have been killed by as little at 2 milliamps or .02 amps. and its not uncommon to see e-cigs run at well above 2.0 amps.
 

suspectK

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You can be killed in microamp measurements.. voltage, skin quality, and CNS resistance will be what determines the minimal amperage that will kill you..even what you eat and drink will play a role.

The Ocelot:10938418 said:
i started vaping to quit smoking, not become a rocket surgeon.
I love that..unfortunately, I already knew related topics before vaping, so I look like I have that much less of a life, other than primarily being on ecf and acting like ecf has created a 'real life' app.. like people are the threads and so forth...
 

The Ocelot

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ever owned a provari so i cant tell you why the battery voltage would change when you change the atomizer.. not really a fan of variable voltage anyways most VV systems cant handle a 1.5 ohm coil. 4.2 volts at 1.5 ohms means the Amps is 2.6. Speed is distance over time. and we think of the Amps like the Speed... so your putting 4.2 volts of pressure though 1.5 ohms of friction at 2.6 amps of speed. amps is the speed which the battery is discharging the pressure and some battery's cant handle loosing pressure this fast and get real hot and "vent" (vent that means they burst open and off gas) the circuity inside of the VV devices may also not be able to handle that much pressure at that amount of speed and you may catch the circuit on fire. luckily there is a breaker installed in the VV devices that cut power before you catch the thing on fire. (just hope that breaker works... they don't always work) 2.6 Amps does not sound like a lot. most house hold outlets you can pull about 20 amps from with out issue. but people have been killed by as little at 2 milliamps or .02 amps. and its not uncommon to see e-cigs run at well above 2.0 amps.

I prefer to think of amps as current.
 
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