sure! you can call it what ever your want! its still speed.. and Speed is distance over time.. it takes 1 volt to push 1 amp though 1 ohm
Why is my provari telling me I have low battery @ 3.7v?
- Thread starter illitirit
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
sure! you can call it what ever your want! its still speed.. and Speed is distance over time.. it takes 1 volt to push 1 amp though 1 ohm
Just seems to me it would have been nice if the OP had mentioned What brand/type battery was in use.
Just seems to me it would have been nice if the OP had mentioned What brand/type battery was in use.
He/she did, it's a ProVari 2.5.
Just seems to me it would have been nice if the OP had mentioned What brand/type battery was in use.
He/she did, it's a ProVari 2.5.
He did, in the first [still unedited] post:
I didn't draw it. I'm working on a series that will illustrate watts as well...and I'm using
kitties!
*work in progress*
kitties!
*work in progress*
Is that a statement that shot two birds with one 6.8 SPC round? Or do am I just imagining the passive aggression?
*work in progress*[/center]
You could do wicking with the different bases, battery cycles, and a lot of stuff outside of vaping... I just want to see more.
Is that a statement that shot two birds with one 6.8 SPC round? Or do am I just imagining the passive aggression?
That must have been one of the lyrics Lennon discarded.
This is what I think is going on. The ProVari needs to fire the battery in order to check the resistance of the coil and the remaining battery charge. So, the remaining battery charge will likely be related to the electronics' calculation of remaining battery life if used with that coil resistance.
Another item of note: The OP is not using the batteries recommended by the manufacturer. When they say they ONLY recommend AW IMR high drain batteries, they're saying that for a reason.
Efests are good batteries, but they're a step down from the AW IMR cells recommended by ProVape.
You spelt it wrong.. it's Lenin..
Quote this to give me a science lesson..
That will have to wait, this one is hard enough as it is. I'm trying to give very new vapers an overview of Ohm's Law that doesn't rely on equations.
When a person asks what VV/VW refers to, I think it's a cheat (and a disservice) to post V²/R=P and expect them to grasp it in one post, plus not bothering to tell them that for a great many vapers, you don't need to know anything beyond the basic concepts.
The Xtar is a battery charger, not a voltmeter. All it's telling you is the terminal voltage while the battery is under charge.
Of course it's going to read higher than it did when it came out of the Prothingy. If you want to know the actual state of the battery use the Provari to measure it before you take it out, or use a multimeter. The charger is just telling you how the charge cycle is going.
Last edited:
You spelt it wrong.. it's Lenin..
I'm sorry, I was distracted imagining there was no heaven.
With V2.5 Provape recommends only IMR batteries that can take deep current loads. The cutoff is 3.5 amps. With a 1.5 ohm coil at 4.7 volts you are pushing 3.13 amps and 14.72 watts. You may be approaching the limit and Li-ion batts aren't supplying what you need for reliable operation. Try some IMR batts.
Provari cautions against using Li-ion and urges IMR (Lithium Manganese) only. That said, you should be getting an error code in the display if you are hitting a pre-programmed wall in the software.
I'd start a service ticket with Provape and see what they say as others have suggested..
Provari cautions against using Li-ion and urges IMR (Lithium Manganese) only. That said, you should be getting an error code in the display if you are hitting a pre-programmed wall in the software.
I'd start a service ticket with Provape and see what they say as others have suggested..
Last edited:
Bravo! I didn't catch he was using the Xtar to try and measure the remaining charge. Well done!
It's not science as much as it is QC testing. AW IMR's are regarded as higher quality cells because they're tested more rigorously than others, and users have consistently found that AW batteries perform closer to spec than other brands.
That doesn't mean the Efest cells won't work in the ProVari. They obviously do. But the manufacturer doesn't recommend it and it's usually a good idea to follow their advice.
I'm going to hazard a guess and say the problem isn't the ProVari or the RSST but your batteries.
I haven't done any testing other than what I can discern when I use either AW IMR or Efest.
As it stands now, I no longer use Efest because the performance is....for lack of a better word.....iffy.
The Efest batteries ( mine anyway ) tend to need recharging almost every 2 hrs whereas the AWIMR's every 5-6 hrs.
Give me a min & I'll edit this post with what a fresh battery reads on my ProVari/RSST.
EDIT: Fresh battery (Efest & AWIMR) both read 4.2.
Doing this allowed me to remember why I don't use the RSST (I only put it on for this post).
My RSST is 1.6Ω per my Ohm checker (I always check my coils immediately after bldg) and Segelei Zmax but when on the ProVari I get the OP error.
Last edited:
Well how about:
Variable voltage is one method, and uses voltage readings directly, which you need to change based on the ohms of the device. More ohms require more voltage.
Variable wattage is one method and when a wattage is selected it really changes the voltage, BUT it does not require changes by the user for different ohm devices.
Seems simple enough, without throwing Ohm's Law at them? What do you think?
- Status
Similar threads
