Why is my provari telling me I have low battery @ 3.7v?

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Baditude

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Maybe I missed something but the OP included a bit of information that said his voltmeter read 3.73v but the Provari wouldn't fire using a 1.5 ohm atty. Unloaded and loaded voltages vary wildly depending on the battery. I suppose that this same battery would perform poorly in a flashlight, too.

He didn't say what the voltage reading was when using the Provari menu selection to read it. I'm thinking that it should have been blinking at some point and there was no mention of that, just dead and no vape.

I'm prescribing new IMR batteries. Didn't he also say these were Li-ion (which will work, but have much lower performance at high current loads)?

illitirit said:
If anyone could help me understand this that would be great. Im either guessing its my batteries ( efest 18500 1100mah v2)

Efest IMR's 18500 1100 mAh are what he stated. I think he meant 18490. Efest makes an 18500 IMR but the Provari won't accept it because its a flat top battery and the Provari only accepts button tops.

Efest also makes a Protected Li-ion 18500 but it is 1500mAh. I can't really tell if its a button or flat top.

http://www.rtdvapor.com/online-store/batteries
 
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Coastal Cowboy

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Keeping it simple for novices who ask simple questions is a good idea. Most of the time, a one paragraph reply with perhaps a link to a chart or graphic is enough to get the message across and answer the question.

However, when relative novices start asking questions about advanced topics surrounding sub-ohm coil building, battery chemistry/capability and how mechanical devices are able to produce such massive vapor clouds, keeping it simple is no longer an option.

I can't count how many times that an eager vaper with limited experience and almost no technical knowledge has asked such questions. Similarly, I can't count how many times Baditude has had to post his in-depth shpiel on unprotected IMR batteries, the pictures of the batteries that vented and the list of high quality, high drain batteries.

A day or so later, another eager beaver comes along with similar questions. Lather, rinse, repeat.

There have been people using coils built by others without the slightest idea of what the resistance of the device is, or even what effect that resistance level has.

What scares me is that someone with limited experience and technical background never finds ECF, but finds all the cool big cloud, sub-ohm videos on YouTube and wants that for himself. So, he sticks the wrong batteries in the wrong tube, connects the wrong atomizer to his system and mashes the fire button.

I have no reason to doubt that these folks can learn and master the technical details of advanced personal vaporizing systems. I just worry about those who don't know that they really need to know all of this mathy, sciency stuff.
 

RaceGun59

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I know this has to do with something like voltage sag or voltage drop, but I am not certain the reason or causes for it or even know what these terms mean.

I have a provari v2.5 and a RSST with a 1.5ohm coil

On a fresh battery charge, that my xtar vp1 tells me my battery is @ 4.18.

When i put the fresh battery in the provari with RSST, the battery reads 3.9 / 4.0 sometimes, but mostly 3.9.


When my provari will absolutely not fire anymore, as in the battery is completely dead and the provari just wont work....I put that battery in my Xtar vp1 and it shows 3.73v

Isnt the battery termination of the provari like 3.2v?

If anyone could help me understand this that would be great. Im either guessing its my batteries ( efest 18500 1100mah v2) or my RSST.

When i was on carto tanks i never noticed these things.

It appears you have a very serious issue with your Provari. Since I am now an unoffical and unauthorized Provari service center you need to send them to me right away. I should have them fixed in about 15-20 years.:D
 

dice57

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Well I just checked battery on my Provari with the Russian mounted read 3.6 volts, with nothing on it read 3.6 volts. I've disabled the low battery warning flash which also disables the fire light, find this gets me longer vape time. I usually replace it when the voltage reads about 3.4, but sometimes when chain vaping, in mid vape it cuts off, so it's nice to know I've only run the battery down to 3.4 volts actual, and not 3.2 volts. I use the recommended AW IMR 18490 batteries that provape sells and never had a problem.
 

DaveP

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My Provari starts flashing slowly at 3.5v and speeds up as it approaches cutoff. I'm thinking that his batteries just aren't up to the task and are flat lining under load. If he's depending on the Xtar charger for voltage readings all bets are off. The Provari battery check would reveal the true loaded voltage. A 1.5 ohm coil is going to stress that battery sufficiently and tell more of the truth about his battery health. The Xtar charger is probably pulse charging and reading unloaded voltage in between.
 

Baditude

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There have been people using coils built by others without the slightest idea of what the resistance of the device is, or even what effect that resistance level has.

What scares me is that someone with limited experience and technical background never finds ECF, but finds all the cool big cloud, sub-ohm videos on YouTube and wants that for himself. So, he sticks the wrong batteries in the wrong tube, connects the wrong atomizer to his system and mashes the fire button.

I have no reason to doubt that these folks can learn and master the technical details of advanced personal vaporizing systems. I just worry about those who don't know that they really need to know all of this mathy, sciency stuff.
I can count at least 3 cases within the last 5 weeks of threads here on ECF of novices receiving their very first e-cig from a number of Southern Californian vape shops. It's always a mechanical mod with a sub ohm coil between 0.1 -0.3 ohms on a Rebuildable. No instruction or cautions, just go home, enjoy it, and make some clouds. One semi-experienced member bought an RBA from one of them and asked for a 1.0 ohm coil, and the sales tech made a 0.3 ohm coil anyway. This appears to be commonplace according to that member.

Then they get home and either find their fire button, mod, or batteries become too hot to touch, or their hot spring melts and the mod won't fire. "What's wrong with my mod?" When asked what the ohm is currently reading, they don't even know what a multimeter is.

Its like the guy I had a runaround with here in another thread this morning. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/new-members-forum/478751-newb-looking-bigger-thicker-clouds.html He's telling a new vapor about how to make big clouds and to not listen to my "fear mongering" about battery safety. I'd seen him post before. He's a new vapor, too. He's had recent posts about hot fire switches and mods, admits he makes sub-ohm coils at home without a meter, and here he's telling some other noob to get an RBA and make sub ohms too.

We'll have the blind leading the blind if the veterans don't speak out against this practice. What those Californian vendors are doing is pure negligence and its only a matter of time before a catastrophe happens and casts a bad light on the entire vaping community. We especially don't need this happening now with the FDA scheduled to make a decision within the next month. It's always a few bad apples that spoil things for everyone.
 
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ScandaLeX

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.....I think some of the stuff you write is the most understandable, for the layman. I also try to write to the level of the OP but I also don't believe in dumbing things down too much. There's as much danger of condescension as there is of writing over someones head, and neither does them full justice.

I think you're saying that I do tend to write over peoples heads. I've noticed for some people the technical explanation is best, but others don't have the background, but they are usually pretty easy to spot. I'll take the criticism on board and try to do better. :oops:
I was a new vaper 2 months ago and in one weeks time I went from an eGo > Zmax > Mechanical.
Why? Because a simple question never gets a simple answer.
All I wanted to do was quit smoking; not power the space shuttle to the moon.

By week 3 I was building my own coils (something I said I'd never do).
Why? Because a simple question never gets a simple answer.

He wasn't using a volt meter. The 3.7v reading was what showed when he put the battery in his Xtar charger.

ETA: While he didn't say how he set it up, if you turn the LED off on the ProVari it won't blink when the battery gets low.
Mine is off and blinks when the battery is too low.

Although it's been said more times than I can count how consistent the vape is from beginning to end- I don't get that experience.
My vape is not consistent.
As a matter of fact, it's so bad I know it's time to change the battery before it starts blinking.
 

ScandaLeX

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Keeping it simple for novices who ask simple questions is a good idea. Most of the time, a one paragraph reply with perhaps a link to a chart or graphic is enough to get the message across and answer the question.

However, when relative novices start asking questions about advanced topics surrounding sub-ohm coil building, battery chemistry/capability and how mechanical devices are able to produce such massive vapor clouds, keeping it simple is no longer an option.

I can't count how many times that an eager vaper with limited experience and almost no technical knowledge has asked such questions. Similarly, I can't count how many times Baditude has had to post his in-depth shpiel on unprotected IMR batteries, the pictures of the batteries that vented and the list of high quality, high drain batteries.

A day or so later, another eager beaver comes along with similar questions. Lather, rinse, repeat.

There have been people using coils built by others without the slightest idea of what the resistance of the device is, or even what effect that resistance level has.

What scares me is that someone with limited experience and technical background never finds ECF, but finds all the cool big cloud, sub-ohm videos on YouTube and wants that for himself. So, he sticks the wrong batteries in the wrong tube, connects the wrong atomizer to his system and mashes the fire button.

I have no reason to doubt that these folks can learn and master the technical details of advanced personal vaporizing systems. I just worry about those who don't know that they really need to know all of this mathy, sciency stuff.

That's just it- the one paragraph replies have gone by the wayside.
The thread fills up quick with every would-be Einstein making it their mission in life to tell the world they're smarter than the average bear.

For the most part, relative novices don't have to ask about sub-ohm coil building; they're going to be told about it anyway. :facepalm:

As long winded as Bad can get I actually soak in every word because he has a way with them.
Bad can let you know that not only did you do something dumb, but I'm going to help you not kill yourself.
He educates and scolds in the same breath and by the time he's done you feel empowered, enriched and enlightened.

"What scares me is that someone with limited experience and technical background never finds ECF"..........
Try as I might I cannot imagine someone not finding ECF.
Every Google search and I mean EVERY Google search I did related to anything vaping bought up a thread here at ECF.
 

eltranced

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My rant about variable wattage vs.

variable power was just me rawring, I'm not including any of that in

my new vaper info. They are just going to get the very basics. One

kitty blows up a balloon, the other kitty squeezes it. :)

in laymens terms to keep people from thinking its two different

performance devices


vw is a vv (that switched to more practical unit of measurement)


VW AVP is THE variable voltages device hardware wise as VV AVP, but

upgraded with software to keep presets in watts... the advantage

is purely an astethic convienience for users dialing into the

right voltage quicker (or not having to memorize volt ranges) when

using many different resistence atties.... as the software has a

memory bank for all voltages (to resistence ratios) to switch to on

the fly


which should leads to the next noob question, will the same

favorable watt setting actually produce same result on different

atties... no (because atties aside from electricity will have

different coil / wick / air / juice configurations) the practical

aspect of adopting watts measurement comes in handy if youre dealing

with alot of different resistence atties and /or dont want to

remember to recalibrate to right volt ranges thereby with watts

having to readjustment minimally



the lastest like eVic lets you choose if you want use uw or vv measurement
 

Coastal Cowboy

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Its like the guy I had a runaround with here in another thread this morning. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/new-members-forum/478751-newb-looking-bigger-thicker-clouds.html He's telling a new vapor about how to make big clouds and to not listen to my "fear mongering" about battery safety. I'd seen him post before. He's a new vapor, too. He's had recent posts about hot fire switches and mods, admits he makes sub-ohm coils at home without a meter, and here he's telling some other noob to get an RBA and make sub ohms too.

I saw that thread. The guy has had several close calls due to unsafe, unadvisable practices and since he's lived to see another day, anyone who discourages following those footsteps is a fear monger. :facepalm:

I like the way you handled it, and it appears that the OP in that thread was able to get the message despite the low signal-to-noise ratio.

We'll have the blind leading the blind if the veterans don't speak out against this practice. What those Californian vendors are doing is pure negligence and its only a matter of time before a catastrophe happens and casts a bad light on the entire vaping community. We especially don't need this happening now with the FDA scheduled to make a decision within the next month. It's always a few bad apples that spoil things for everyone.

Agreed. I'm technically still a relative newcomer. However, I'm an eager student. This forum has been and invaluable repository for me. I come here to learn as much as I do to share what I've learned.

I've solved some of my own problems through trial and error, but many more issues I've had were resolved simply by using the search facility and aiming my browser at the right ECF forum, sub-forum or blog.

Back in June, I didn't know that I really, really needed to know all this stuff. Now I do, and when I can I try to help folks understand that sooner or later, they'll need to know it, too.
 

suspectK

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I think subohm builds should only be allowed to be discussed in the rebuildable threads. If someone is curious in them, and they find the rebuildable forum, I would hope they know about safety or have picked it up from the few good people that try to beat it into their heads. A new user switching from a cig-a-like, or none at all, and they're not satisfied with their vapor production. They see "OMFG! Huge clouds melting my face off..." type of thread, and blam..maybe a quite literal BLAM! and melting their face off.
 

ItTechy

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I try to read all of a thread before I chime in an many times I add some sarcastic or humors twist on sometimes otherwise long dissertations.

Please be aware that this forum was started for not only education and social purposes, but also a way for us all to share one common goal, uniting us all so we have the information and the freedom to use electronic personal vaporizers.

We took an invention, refined it and we are all perfecting it, it is a work in progress that is currently being threatened by our government.

We cannot ignore what is taking place my friends!

The fact is we are debating ohms vs. volts, Kanger vs. Boge, Provape vs. Vamos, on and on , and if we do not focus on the BIG picture we will soon be vaping VG / PG with flavoring!

This is October my friends and the only reason there are not FLASHES splattered all over this forum yet is because the government is in a holding pattern over "Affordable Health Care Act", aka Obama Care!

There are a few threads regarding what the FDA has up it's proverbial sleeve, no doubt funded and motivated by lobbyists stuffing money into someones pockets!

By all means we need to keep up what we are doing and discussing things as we do, we all learn this way, but let us not forget we may soon be unable to use nicotine in our PV', APV' without paying a hefty tax, fee, and or needing a Rx to even buy the raw base to mix DIY liquids.

Please, Please look up the threads regarding up coming FDA hearings, suggested actions regarding contacting your legislation, you elected officials, etc.

We cannot sleep this one out my brothers and sisters!:2cool:
 

suspectK

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"
Quote Originally Posted by Pavlov:10943585


'My ADV is currently Black Menthol which I source from Vaping Cobra in the form of a tripler. I have some Jaffa Cake, Creaming Soda, Bubblegum and a few other flavours steeping.'

"I believe they are poisonous . . . I don't see any good in them at all."

"No one really buys an e-cigarette in bubble gum flavor as an adult."

....."

I thought that was really funny. I read that e-mail, and I said to myself...hmmm I haven't actually seen anyone vaping bubblegum.
 

crxess

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eltranced, Sooner or later you are going to Proof read what you have typed and realize between your Jargon and typos, 1/2 of what you are expressing is lost on most. Even if it makes perfectly logical sense to you.

Example:
VW AVP is THE variable voltages device hardware wise as VV AVP, but upgraded with software to keep presets in watts... the advantage is purely an astethic convienience for users dialing into the right voltage quicker (or not having to memorize volt ranges) when using many different resistence atties.... as the software has a memory bank for all voltages (to resistence ratios) to switch to on the fly

aesthetic:
1. concerned with beauty or the appreciation of beauty.

Memory Bank - No, it uses a Calculation algotythm to balance Volts against resistance to maintain preferred watts through sampling and re-sampling of resistance.

Both Volts and Watts are user adjustable and Both balance the end result.
When adjusting Voltage you are adjusting the devices Final Wattage output setting
When adjusting Wattage you are Seeing your Final Wattage output setting.

VW Devices are designed to simply place you in your desired vaping range. it is then up to you to tweak to preference for best experience with the particular delivery system/e-liquid.

Over simplification of any answer can mislead as to intent of design and/or use.
 

fabricator4

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I was a new vaper 2 months ago and in one weeks time I went from an eGo > Zmax > Mechanical.
Why? Because a simple question never gets a simple answer.
All I wanted to do was quit smoking; not power the space shuttle to the moon.

You could have done that with a couple of egos. I don't know what to tell you since I don't know what the original question was, however I *never* tell someone they have to upgrade. Sometimes the "simple" answer is to go out and buy a Zmax or something else, when a slightly more complicated answer might have yielded better results.

These are the interwebs, you have to run everything through the reality filter before you jump tracks.
 

ItTechy

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Do realize what you just posted?

How can you set wattage; I have a McIntosh home entertainment system that feature direct reading dual RMS watt meters to show me how much wattage in sound is being pushed out to my speakers...

My power amplifiers are capable of 1000 watts RMS each, now then my speakers are rated at 500 watts @ 8 ohms , my pre amp is capable of either a 4 ohm or 8 ohm output to the speakers.....

Likewise all vaping heating elements are only capable of handling SO much wattage, period, fin, finito, THE END....(Just like my speakers).....

It doesn't matter my friend what the heck you set your device to, be it in watts or Volts, the end result is the receptor, be it speakers or a heating element can only withstand so much load before it is destroyed!

Using watts or volts does not really matter as much as understanding the means to the end; in another few months we will debating or discussing how we are getting our nicotine, the ridiculous taxes or laws on it, and or where to buy it outside of the United States!

I see your point, but right now we are splitting hairs over nothing essentially!

Lets focus on how our government is about to infringe on our rights to do something to our own bodies that is less harmful than eating some of the processed foods we buy at the supermarket!

My :2c: worth!

eltranced, Sooner or later you are going to Proof read what you have typed and realize between your Jargon and typos, 1/2 of what you are expressing is lost on most. Even if it makes perfectly logical sense to you.


VW Devices are designed to simply place you in your desired vaping range. it is then up to you to tweak to preference for best experience with the particular delivery system/e-liquid.

Over simplification of any answer can mislead as to intent of design and/or use.
 
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crxess

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Can't believe you just tried comparing Amp output running Fixed cooling coil speakers to an APV or Mech Mod. Especially to a person that Spent 25 years in high end Car Audio:D

At least I got your attention and you took time to post clearly.

Now, just for reference - Yes everything has limits. Even you and I.:)
That said, a Dry coil may be popped by a 6 watt load while the same coil may easily take 15 watts running a well saturated wick.
Yes 20 watts may still pop that coil, but obviously Conditions also come into play. Cooling in this case.

Also, while Distortion could trash your speakers at 3/4 rating, crisp un-distorted music properly filtered(crossed off) could be played at 2x the rated output without damage. Been there / done that:thumb:
 

ScandaLeX

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You could have done that with a couple of egos. I don't know what to tell you since I don't know what the original question was, however I *never* tell someone they have to upgrade. Sometimes the "simple" answer is to go out and buy a Zmax or something else, when a slightly more complicated answer might have yielded better results.

These are the interwebs, you have to run everything through the reality filter before you jump tracks.

Ya think?!!

There's nothing to tell me- it's an old post- that ship has sailed.

The point I made is to show more times than not the simple answer gets missed or just isn't there.
If your question is about an eGo you're told to get a Zmax, Vamo, Mech.....etc....etc.

Very often you have to sift through 100 replies in hopes of finding an answer related to your specific question or you get so overwhelmed with reading nonsense that you just stop reading.
 

ItTechy

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You just gave yourself away!

In your example you are stating watts, I.E. cause and effect, ok Eisenstein elaborate, AC, DC, 3 Phase AC , Floating ground DC?

How many volts ?

Lets just stop, PLEASE :blink:

This is why I have been here since 2009 with only a few hundred posts!

This topic really isn't so important!


barfing.gif





Can't believe you just tried comparing Amp output running Fixed cooling coil speakers to an APV or Mech Mod. Especially to a person that Spent 25 years in high end Car Audio:D

At least I got your attention and you took time to post clearly.

Now, just for reference - Yes everything has limits. Even you and I.:)
That said, a Dry coil may be popped by a 6 watt load while the same coil may easily take 15 watts running a well saturated wick.
Yes 20 watts may still pop that coil, but obviously Conditions also come into play. Cooling in this case.

Also, while Distortion could trash your speakers at 3/4 rating, crisp un-distorted music properly filtered(crossed off) could be played at 2x the rated output without damage. Been there / done that:thumb:
 
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