This seems absolutely silly, I wanted a small unit like the BB, with 3.7 and 6v capacity
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errr, ummm, that's exactly what the new/current does? What are you looking at?
get the Silver Bullet it isnt that much bigger and gives you everything 3.7v - 6v - 7.2v - 7.4v and you can run it over with a truck and it wont hurt it, plus Chads work is so custom and so clean and lastly for $85 it's simply priced right and you cant go wrong with it plus it performs awesome.!!!!!!!!!!! Reason I own more than 1
The BB V1.1
*The Switch: 200,000 clicks electrical/1,000,000 mechanical
*The Size: 3.5" (L) about the size of a nickel in Diameter.
*Coating: Black, Purple, Pink
*The batteries: 14500 (3.7v Protected)
*Longer Bottom
The *Longer Bottom will accommodate 2 CR2's for 6 volt vaping if one wants to roll the dice and gamble and the possibility of reversing the polls of the earth and causing inevitable doom for mankind... etc...
*The Switch: 200,000 clicks electrical/1,000,000 mechanical
*The Size: 3.5" (L) about the size of a nickel in Diameter.
*Coating: Black, Purple, Pink
*The batteries: 14500 (3.7v Protected)
*Longer Bottom
The *Longer Bottom will accommodate 2 CR2's for 6 volt vaping if one wants to roll the dice and gamble and the possibility of reversing the polls of the earth and causing inevitable doom for mankind... etc...
ssssshhhhh! Be vewy vewy qwiet.... you don't want to offend the battewy safety nutz.
The *Longer Bottom will accommodate 2 CR2's for 6 volt vaping if one wants to roll the dice and gamble and the possibility of reversing the polls of the earth and causing inevitable doom for mankind... etc...
Not so much of a roll of the dice either since the longer bottom accomodates those protected cr2s available now.
The Magic word is deffinately PROTECTED here.!!! One thing however I dont get is why all pv makers are not putting a fuse link is in all these PV's which would be simple to do.!!
Doesn't work (for protection). You have to have a pcb for each cell in a stacked configuration. Same thing for sealed, multi-cell battery packs.
Well, lol, nvm then, was on ecigarette-mods.com and it said something along the lines that BB will no longer support anything other than 3.7 after Jan1.
Quick question, how big is the SB compared the the Chuck?
Is the SB size awkward in your hand? Does the button fire off easily? In your pocket maybe?
THanks for all the responses btw, Altsmoke forums are very helpful.
Edit: The new BB can run 2 protected 3v's, so why are they saying otherwise? Very confusing lol
Quick question, how big is the SB compared the the Chuck?
Is the SB size awkward in your hand? Does the button fire off easily? In your pocket maybe?
THanks for all the responses btw, Altsmoke forums are very helpful.
Edit: The new BB can run 2 protected 3v's, so why are they saying otherwise? Very confusing lol
Sorry for double post, does the SB work with 510 atties at 6v?
I know the BB works only with certain ones, just curious.
People speak of PCB or something tripping (no idea what this is)
Sorry for sounding stupid..
I know the BB works only with certain ones, just curious.
People speak of PCB or something tripping (no idea what this is)
Sorry for sounding stupid..
I got my BB when it first came out & have yet to encounter a 510 atty that doesn't work. HV, LR & regular 510's all.
(PCB) Protection Circuit Module/Board is a circuit that controls the output of a battery so as to avoid over discharging (which causes the boom effect). It will make a 3.0V battery that can actually charge higher let out only 3.0V & never more during use. If something were to trigger more volts to be run out it would activate the PCB & disrupt the electrical flow. This is why they don't work with LR atties, because the lowered resistance of them (1.5-1.8oHm) makes the battery work harder which trips the PCB & disrupts electrical release resulting in the device not activating. (There's also no real need to use a LR atty @ 6V as this would defeat the whole purpose of using the LR atty in the first place, but just a valid example.)
I find the SB very comfortable in the hand. With the recessed button, activating it in your pocket wont happen. Though I don't own a chuck I'd imagine with the type of button used pocket activation would be a far greater risk than with the SB.
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I think what they mean by..will no longer support anything besides 3.7V is that it's more like a disclaimer...
kind of like we made this for a 14500 battery and 3.7V...now we all know that you're gonna drop in whatever battery you can find to get it to whatever voltage you want be it 6V or 7.4V...but you do so at your own risk...we intend for it to be used at 3.7V...
That kind of thing...
kind of like we made this for a 14500 battery and 3.7V...now we all know that you're gonna drop in whatever battery you can find to get it to whatever voltage you want be it 6V or 7.4V...but you do so at your own risk...we intend for it to be used at 3.7V...
That kind of thing...
No offense intended but this part is wrong. The protection does not regulate voltage. In fact, my 3.0v protected batteries charge (with a charger putting out 4.02v to 3.8 -3.9v. That quickly drops off to about 3.5 to 3.6v shortly after the batteries come off the charger. The battery operates down to around 3.2 or 3.1v when the pcb disconnects. I would have expected the circuit to let it discharge a bit lower but that's where it seems to cut off. The pcb is mainly there to regulate current (discharge rate -- like a short circuit) and will also disconnect at some max and min voltage to prevent overcharge or undercharge, but it does not regulate voltage within that range. The 3.0v batteries that are Li-Ion (a Li-Ion cell operates at 3.7v) will/should also include a voltage regulator to cut down the voltage but that's not really part of the "pcb". When batteries are listed as being some voltage batteries that's the nominal voltage. They will operate at some voltage above that and, usually, down to or maybe below that. Your 3.7v 14500 batteries usually come off the charger at 4.2v. A load/resistance will "draw" a certain amount of current at a particular voltage. If the supply is not capable of providing that amount of current then you will see a voltage drop until it satisifies the ohm's law equation.
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I don't know. Maybe because people start threads with titles like this one? and then other's just pass it along as fact?
Was that a current posting or from a long time ago? Might be worth clearing up the misconception. Got a pointer?
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Current post, Sorry, I am new to the Mod scene, and want a SB or BB to be my first, heard they were built to withstand everything but a nuclear blast, i want durability, just confused about the 6v disclaimer.
This has all been cleared up though, thanks to All of you guys, Very informative and nice to boot.
My next question (yes i am full of them lol sorry) is:
The 6v option will not work with most 510 atties from what I hear, some kind of discharge from the batteries, also don't want a fire (i know they burn hot at 3.7)
SO ... i will use an adapter, but 510 atties are all i have used thus far, which atties are similar to the 510's: 901 or 801? And which work best at 6v
Also, does the BB PT run at 5v?
OK im done, no more questions, i know im killing you guys with em
This has all been cleared up though, thanks to All of you guys, Very informative and nice to boot.
My next question (yes i am full of them lol sorry) is:
The 6v option will not work with most 510 atties from what I hear, some kind of discharge from the batteries, also don't want a fire (i know they burn hot at 3.7)
SO ... i will use an adapter, but 510 atties are all i have used thus far, which atties are similar to the 510's: 901 or 801? And which work best at 6v
Also, does the BB PT run at 5v?
OK im done, no more questions, i know im killing you guys with em
The SB is approx 1/2" shorter than the Chuck, but the SB is about as thick as a D cell battery. With the Chuck it WILL go off in your pocket and you risk snapping the button off. The SB on the other hand is extremly sturdy and is next to impossible to go off in your pocket. The SB works great at 6v with any atty just make sure you use a HV atty.
I find the 901 atomizers to be closest to the 510. Both in form factor and overall vape. They do tend to have slightly more of a draw (you need to suck harder/slower than with the 510s). The 901s usually come in right about 3.1 - 3.3 ohms and, for me, are perfect for a 6v configuration. So are the KR808D cartomizers. They measure at 3.0 - 3.2 ohms
The BB PT will run at whatever voltage you feed it. It is a true passthough. You get the bottom barrel with the battery contact. It weighs about the same as a bottom barrel with batteries in it. The bottom of the barrel is fitted with a 2.5mm female jack. It comes with a cable that has the 2.5mm male jack on one end and a USB jack on the other. If you use the USB cable then it's the USB port/power supply that determines the voltage and amps. I use the Enercell, voltage selectable, 2Amp power supply from Radio Shack (with the 2.5mm tip) that you plug into a wall socket. switch selectable 3v, 5v, 6v, 6.5v, 7v, 7.5v. I believe the passthrough bottom can handle whatever voltage and or current you could reasonably feed it.
The BB PT will run at whatever voltage you feed it. It is a true passthough. You get the bottom barrel with the battery contact. It weighs about the same as a bottom barrel with batteries in it. The bottom of the barrel is fitted with a 2.5mm female jack. It comes with a cable that has the 2.5mm male jack on one end and a USB jack on the other. If you use the USB cable then it's the USB port/power supply that determines the voltage and amps. I use the Enercell, voltage selectable, 2Amp power supply from Radio Shack (with the 2.5mm tip) that you plug into a wall socket. switch selectable 3v, 5v, 6v, 6.5v, 7v, 7.5v. I believe the passthrough bottom can handle whatever voltage and or current you could reasonably feed it.
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