Why Mechanicals? Is sub ohm THAT big a deal? Why are these so big lately

[RedhatPat]

I'm not advanced enough or brave enough to use mechanicals yet, let alone sub-ohm vaping. I don't think anyone, even the heaviest smokers, would say sub-ohm vaping is needed to keep them off the stinkies. I hope to get into it for the neato factor once I have completed a ton of vape homework & research, as a reward to myself for increased IQ. Otherwise I'm cool with just looking at others do it.

Besides which - there is no need to use those unless you are a cloudhound with some technical expertise.



RHP

 

[SissySpike]

Hanging out in the RBA forums I get the impression that the sub-ohm aficionados aren't really using them for their all day vape. They'll build a coil, post about it, and then toss it. What I hear a lot is that while SLR coils put out a lot of vapor the vaping experience isn't as enjoyable because they get so hot.

I think the cloud chasers are moving more towards micro-coils in the 1.0 to 2.0 ohm range as these can produce just as much vapor as a sub-ohm without the stress on the battery and the vape is much more enjoyable.

Just my perception.

I keep a RBA dripping atty with a .4 ohm dual coil set up I vape it on a regular basis. In fact Ive been vaping this all evening. Lots of flavor and vapor whats not to like?

 

[Baditude]

I keep a RBA dripping atty with a .4 ohm dual coil set up I vape it on a regular basis. In fact Ive been vaping this all evening. Lots of flavor and vapor whats not to like?

Not questioning you use of a sub ohm, but is it really that better of a vape than a higher resistance coil could provide you? I know you are an experienced vapor and understand about battery and mod safety, and likely know how to recognize the red flag warning signs should something go wrong with that setup. But can't you get just as good of a vape experience with something made with higher resistance? Maybe with micro coils?

Just asking, because I still believe you're taking more risks than you need to be.

 

[Baditude]

I'm not advanced enough or brave enough to use mechanicals let alone sub-ohm vaping. I don't think anyone, even the heaviest smokers, would say sub-ohm vaping is needed to keep them off the stinkies...Besides which - there is no need to use those unless you are a cloudhound with some technical expertise.

"Just because you can, doesn't mean you should." - PBusardo

 

[NicoHolic]

IMO, it's hard to find a safer sub-ohm mechanical setup than a REO Grand with a 1600 mAH AW IMR 18650 and Reomizer 2 (RM2) RBA sporting a micro coil. That's one of several reasons so many micro-coilers are buying them.

The micro coil wraps are already touching the adjacent ones, so resistance isn't going any lower by spaced coils touching.

The RM2 posts are widely spread, not one in the middle and one close to it.

The RM2 base is ceramic and the coil isn't going to short out if it touches it.

The REO has a hot spring that acts like a fuse, disconnecting one end of the battery in the event of a short.

The REO is designed and specified for use with safer chemistry AW IMR batteries, such as the 1600 mAH 18650 rated at 15C (24 amps) maximum CONTINUOUS current. We pulse it when vaping.

A 0.5Ω micro coil will only draw as much 8 amps, 33% of that battery rating, and that's if you can get as much as 4.0V across the coil. Compare it to shifting at 2,000 rpm out of a 6,000 rpm redline.

And no--I've found no super-ohm coil that gives the same thick, heavy 60+ ring-gauge cigar vape. Most of you come from light cigarettes and don't have the perspective of a 5+ fat cigar a day habit..

 

[dr g]

Not questioning you use of a sub ohm, but is it really that better of a vape than a higher resistance coil could provide you? I know you are an experienced vapor and understand about battery and mod safety, and likely know how to recognize the red flag warning signs should something go wrong with that setup. But can't you get just as good of a vape experience with something made with higher resistance? Maybe with micro coils?

Just asking, because I still believe you're taking more risks than you need to be.

The answer is yes, right now there's nothing* that can push enough power through a higher resistance coil setup to do what a low subohm RBA can. We're talking 30+ watts.

But here's the thing ... you're actually little safer vaping at high-ohms, high-power with a booster than low-ohms, high power mech, as far as the batteries go.

* There actually are but they are not in common use.

 

[Baditude]

But here's the thing ... you're actually little safer vaping and high-ohms, high-power with a booster than low-ohms, high power mech, as far as the batteries go.

I found this a little confusing to understand. Can you go into more detail please? Thanks for the response.

 

[dr g]

I found this a little confusing to understand. Can you go into more detail please? Thanks for the response.

With a booster circuit, on the battery side you are pulling the wattage out of the battery's voltage. So let's give an example ...

A mech mod with a .5 ohm coil pulls 30.42 watts out of a typical 3.9v at the coil with a fairly fresh battery. That's 7.8 amps.
As that battery drops to 3.5 at the coil, output drops to 24.5w, 7 amps.
At 3.2 at the coil, 20 watts, 6.4 amps, you get the picture.

A boosted mod with a 2 ohm coil set at 30 watts will always be hitting the battery up for 30 watts of power, so at 4.2v fresh charge you're looking at 7.14 amps.
At 3.9v you're up to 7.69 amps.
At 3.5v you're at 8.57 amps.
At 3.2v you're at 9.38 amps.

You get the picture.

 

[chadsmo]

As far as micro coils go I usually run dual coils of 6/7 28g in my Nimbus. It usually meters around .55 ohms. Say what you will about sub ohm vaping but my mango that I've got in there right now tastes amazing. The only small issue I have with them is that after three back to back big inhales the vapour is getting quite hot. And really at the end of the day I'm a vapour guy and like more of it.

While certainly not the most 'impressive' vapour out there this is that setup in particular.

http://youtu.be/s8YgvqEtoYE

I'm under the amp limit of the 18650 and I change it probably more often than I have to for a fresh one. I meter all my coils and make sure there is no way of it shorting out.

 

[B4DJ1N64N]

Sent from my mind using the Force, or mindmelt, or whatever..

 

[D. Waterhouse]

Think of it this way, what did we have before VV? Straight 3.7 volt. You adjusted the wattage of your vape by buying low , standard, or high res. attys, if they were available. I still remember the thread when someone figured out that 510s hit harder on a boxmod because they run at 2.2 ohm and 901s run at 3.2 ohm.

 

[MarKa]

TBH because of my circle of friends, I've always associated going mechanical with building sub-ohm from the start. Getting more into ECF and a couple other forums has changed that assumption. I still build sub-ohm, but I have a battery that I know can handle it. The clouds are just phenomenal. I guess that's why they're a big deal.

 

[tj99959]

To start with the very first "mod" offered for sale was a mechanical (Screwdriver made by Trog). So there is nothing new about mechanical PV's. They were around for years before anyone even thought about sub ohm vaping, and many of us still use them with the same old atties & cartos that we always have. RBA/RDA's have simply added to the versatility of the mechanical is all.

My reason for buying a mechanical in the first place was that I wanted a backup PV that would work no matter what. IMO if you can't use your backup PV for a hammer, and still vape it .... it isn't a reliable backup.
That first mechanical that I bought (a Mako) even fell out of a duck blind, and spent a week at the bottom of Ogden Bay (it was found & retrieved by my dog). I still have it & still use it. Try doing that with your VAMO.

The only thing to keep in mind when using a mechanical is YOU are the safety features. The PV will not do those things for you, and you have to get it right 100% of the time ..... it only takes once, and Huston has a problem.

 

[Crash Moses]

To start with the very first "mod" offered for sale was a mechanical (Screwdriver made by Trog). So there is nothing new about mechanical PV's. They were around for years before anyone even thought about sub ohm vaping, and many of us still use them with the same old atties & cartos that we always have. RBA/RDA's have simply added to the versatility of the mechanical is all.

My reason for buying a mechanical in the first place was that I wanted a backup PV that would work no matter what. IMO if you can't use your backup PV for a hammer, and still vape it .... it isn't a reliable backup.
That first mechanical that I bought (a Mako) even fell out of a duck blind, and spent a week at the bottom of Ogden Bay (it was found & retrieved by my dog). I still have it & still use it. Try doing that with your VAMO.

The only thing to keep in mind when using a mechanical is YOU are the safety features. The PV will not do those things for you, and you have to get it right 100% of the time ..... it only takes once, and Huston has a problem.

Sooo....how much for your dog?

 

[dmska]

I like mechanicals for the form factor, also think they they have more to offer in the overall looks than vv. Don't get me wrong, I use vv and mechanicals, but I don't do sub ohms.

 

[tj99959]

Sooo....how much for your dog?

Sired by 2xNAFC-2xNAFTCH(Canada) Ebonstar Lean Mac, and out of NAFTCH(Canada) Raindancers Lonesome Dove ......... A LOT!
but she's 12 years old now, so maybe less than I paid

 

[NicoHolic]

I like mechanicals for the form factor, also think they they have more to offer in the overall looks than vv...

You can get mods that don't make you look like you're sucking on a dildo in vv as well.

 

[upsetter21]

Dr G has a very good point. Ohm's law: voltage is inversely proportianal to current. Raise the voltage and same watts with less current. It is safer to draw less current.

Also two small batts are less dangerous than one beast battery, because there are two wrappers and less energy stored individually.

 

[_more_]

IMO, it's hard to find a safer sub-ohm mechanical setup than a REO Grand with a 1600 mAH AW IMR 18650 and Reomizer 2 (RM2) RBA sporting a micro coil. That's one of several reasons so many micro-coilers are buying them.

The micro coil wraps are already touching the adjacent ones, so resistance isn't going any lower by spaced coils touching.

The RM2 posts are widely spread, not one in the middle and one close to it.

The RM2 base is ceramic and the coil isn't going to short out if it touches it.

The REO has a hot spring that acts like a fuse, disconnecting one end of the battery in the event of a short.

The REO is designed and specified for use with safer chemistry AW IMR batteries, such as the 1600 mAH 18650 rated at 15C (24 amps) maximum CONTINUOUS current. We pulse it when vaping.

A 0.5Ω micro coil will only draw as much 8 amps, 33% of that battery rating, and that's if you can get as much as 4.0V across the coil. Compare it to shifting at 2,000 rpm out of a 6,000 rpm redline.

And no--I've found no super-ohm coil that gives the same thick, heavy 60+ ring-gauge cigar vape. Most of you come from light cigarettes and don't have the perspective of a 5+ fat cigar a day habit..

I agree and also feel safe with my REO and RM2 because to me they are built for safety.

 

[Jerms]

To start with the very first "mod" offered for sale was a mechanical (Screwdriver made by Trog). So there is nothing new about mechanical PV's. They were around for years before anyone even thought about sub ohm vaping, and many of us still use them with the same old atties & cartos that we always have. RBA/RDA's have simply added to the versatility of the mechanical is all.

My reason for buying a mechanical in the first place was that I wanted a backup PV that would work no matter what. IMO if you can't use your backup PV for a hammer, and still vape it .... it isn't a reliable backup.
That first mechanical that I bought (a Mako) even fell out of a duck blind, and spent a week at the bottom of Ogden Bay (it was found & retrieved by my dog). I still have it & still use it. Try doing that with your VAMO.

The only thing to keep in mind when using a mechanical is YOU are the safety features. The PV will not do those things for you, and you have to get it right 100% of the time ..... it only takes once, and Huston has a problem.

Some good points there. As far as mods go, mechs are as old school as there is. A regulated mod with safety features, variable power, and ohm and volt meters, was the new tech that has some very cool features. Mechs were still around and loved by many, but the popularity of variable power overtook them a bit. I do think RBAs and sub-ohm building gave mechs boost in popularity. The sub-ohm crowd wanted mechs to bypass the amp limits that regulated mods have. Now it seems with that boost from the RBA and sub-ohm users, others are seeing the benefits that mechs always had and are getting into them too. Add that quality mechs can be gotten for much cheaper (the clone wars) than before has also boosted the popularity.

I had a VW device before a mech. My first mech was mainly to have a really solid back-up mod. Turned out that I liked it so much I've been using mechs more than my VW.

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