Why mods? Why 6v?

[roxics]

I understand the desire to go to a higher voltage device when all you had were high resistance atomizers and cartomizers. It would take more power to push more out of them.
However now that there are low resistance atomizers and cartomizers, isn't using one of those on a standard eGo battery the same thing as using a HR on a 6V?

Going LR on a 6V just seems like a good excuse to burn off all your flavor and liquid in a few minutes. What's the fun in that?

I've never tried a mod. Just trying to wrap my head around them.

 

[Automaton]

No, using an LR on an eGo is equal in wattage to vaping at 4.1v. It's a far cry from 6v.

Vaping at 5v with a regular atty is 10 watts. Vaping an eGo with an LR is only 6.8 watts.

Why 6v? No idea. It's way too much for me. But some people like it. Some people also find HV atties last longer.

Why mods? Well, because stock batteries, like eGo's, can't really handle LR's.

Its safer to use an LR on an eGo than it is a regular 510, but they still don't have enough amperage to safely run an LR, and the switch can't handle the heat. I have killed eGo batteries by using an LR on them.

So for me, the reason I'm going to mods is because my eGo's can't handle the strain. And this is true of all stock batteries. If you want to run an LR without risking destroying batteries, you really have to go to mods.

 

[cskent]

I just got my first mod, the Maxi Roughstack from Madvapes. I also ordered the batt's to make it a 6v device. I just got it yesterday and tried it out after charging the batt's. It heats up the atty instantly and yes I get a burned flavor on every hit. I've got to try it with some other juices to see how they do. I do see the advantage though, a 1 second hit gives lots of vapor. I've used LR's on my eGo and it can't compare in that department. Maybe some experienced modders will chime in with some advice. In the meantime I'm thinking about ordering the batt's to run it at 3.7v, they're cheap at around $4 so no biggie there. The unit itself is built like a tank and should give years of service. I just have to figure out how to get the best out of it.

 

[roxics]

Why mods? Well, because stock batteries, like eGo's, can't really handle LR's.

Its safer to use an LR on an eGo than it is a regular 510, but they still don't have enough amperage to safely run an LR, and the switch can't handle the heat. I have killed eGo batteries by using an LR on them.

Wish I would have learned this before ordering all those 2 ohm cartomizers for my new riva. Yikes!

 

[Automaton]

Wish I would have learned this before ordering all those 2 ohm cartomizers for my new riva. Yikes!

2.0 ohm *should* be ok. It might stress your batts a little, but not as bad as I was. It's better than an LR atty, which is 1.5 ohm. That's what I was using on my eGo.

Just don't chain vape with it. That's how I killed my eGo - it overheated the switch.

A lot of people use LR's on eGo's and Riva's without problems, but I killed a $20 battery within a week, and I'm not alone. Perhaps the amount I vape has something to do with it. Just be careful.

3.7v mods can be had for cheap. You can get a RoughStack of $45, the cost of an eGo/Riva kit, and you can use higher amp batteries that can handle the load of an LR safely.

I'm going for a GGTB, which is all-mechanical and $75.

I'm sticking with 3.7v because I'm afraid of stacking batteries (which is how you get higher voltage). So 3.7 with an LR is it for me.

 

[Strigoi]

i like that they use "regular" batteries that aren't e-cig specific. there will be no worries about finding them in the future.

i've found i don't like the small size of standard e-cigs and prefer the larger body of a mod like my SB as well. it's just more comfortable to me. i have no desire to vape with something that is close in size to a cigarette and got over that pretty quickly when i first started.

 

[TL1000RSquid]

I've been using a 1.7 LR atty on my ego so far I haven't killed it but I really need to decide if I want to order a maxxi rough stack or preorder the provari. Drains my 650 battery in about 3 hours, and I don't want to risk my more expensive 900 or ego PT.

 

[Vaporologist]

I would just like to add a little bit to this conversation.

We are all trying to achieve finding that "sweet spot" where we can get the best combination of flavor, vapor and TH. The sweet spot is found in the right wattage (heat) which for many vapers seems to be in the mid 10 watt range. A simple formula for calculating wattage is: voltage x voltage : ohm = wattage.

The most watts you can get from a 3.7V setup is when paired with a LR 1.5 ohm atty which will deliver 9.13 watts. That's plenty for some people but not enough for some of us. So, the next option is to go 5V with a standard 510 atty rated at 2.3 ohm. The problem is that some of us don't use electronic devices and like using all mechanical PVs. Our only options are 3.7V or 6V. Now, using a standard 510 atty at 6V is way too much IMO. You are getting well over 15 watts and that's where the juice can taste really burnt and where atties can easily pop. The solution is found in atties rated between 3.0 - 3.5 ohm. Using 3.5 ohm resistance against 6V of power provides almost the same wattage as running a 2.3 ohm atty at 5V. For some of us, that's a true sweet spot.

 

[cskent]

Thanks Vaporologist for providing that information. I am not really familiar with anything but LR's and standard atty's. I knew there was a solution though. I ordered batt's to run my Maxi Roughstack at 6v and with standard atty's I'm getting that burned taste every hit. I'll order some 3.0 and 3.5 ohm atty's in the near future and give it a shot.

 

[dragginfly]

Hey roxics!

How are we doing so far? You wrapping your head around this?

Low resistance (LR) running at a lower voltage can only 'simulate' HR at higher voltage.

It can NEVER duplicate it in every aspect.

As you said...

It would take more power to push more out of them.

You hit the nail on the head.

Power is exactly what we're after. The power converts to heat which vaporizes the liquid.

If you want more vapor, you need more power.

But... it's not as simple as adjusting power by playing with resistance.

You can get higher power from a low voltage (assuming battery can take the strain) and
STILL not have the same vape experience.

It's not JUST about power.

Delivery also depends on the ability of the carto or atty to convert the liquid to vapor.

We don't see this very readily because a LR carto can look just like an HR carto. They
may be the exact same size.

But from an electrical viewpoint, they are NOT at all the same size.

A 3.4 ohm carto is TWICE as big as a 1.7 ohm carto in terms of resistance.

Given more power, a bigger carto can produce more vapor.

Put that much power into a 'smaller' carto and you can overload it just as
you would be straining the battery to produce more current.

Make sense?

Look at it like a length of wire.

Run 8 watts through a 2 inch wire.

Now run 8 watts through a 1 inch wire.

Which wire is hotter?

All of the power converts to heat in both cases. But heat does not equal temperature.

In the short wire, the heat is concentrated and the temperature is higher.

My 5v PT with a 3.4 ohm 'cool' carto builds awesome vapor and
excellent flavor. The delicate flavor is presumably due to the
lower operating temperature in the carto.

Power consumption: ~ 7.4 watts (@ 1.47 amps)


My 3.7 KR808 with a 2.5 ohm standard carto builds a ton of
vapor, but it is much warmer and the flavors are sharp. Some
of the delicacies are lost. The shell of the cartos also gets
much, much warmer.

Power consumption: ~ 5.7 watts (@ 1.48 amps)

Less power, hotter operating temperature.

To hit the 'sweet spot' with the 3.7v battery, I need to reduce
the power delivered by increasing the resistor.

I propose that the 'sweet spot' is found in a fixed ratio of
power to resistance, and also varies based on delivery of
air and liquid to the vaporization point.

From a logical perspective...

Assuming the 'sweet spot' for flavor and TH is achieved in both
the HR and LR conditions, the HR will deliver more vapor.

My little 3.7v battery with its little resistor produces a little vapor.

My 'big' 5v PT with its big resistor produces bigger vapor.

 

[Jp Infante]

Started out with the blu cigs then with the 510.. Now have the Prodigy v3.1 6 volts and theres no going back.. Vapor, throat hit and flavor come to life!

 

[McCordRM]

The reason for "Why Mods" is simple: something different.
Each mod offers it's own reasoning. For example, a bottom feed
mod allows you to vape longer without the need for dripping, while
A Chuck allows you to customize with your own artwork.

 

[candre23]

theres no going back.

Absolutely agreed. After several months vaping exclusively at 5V with 2.5ohm 510 attys, I am unsatisfied by 3.7V + LR setups, let alone "standard" 3.7V + 2.5ohm setups. Once you get used to a high power setup, anything less seems weak and cold.

The joker and buzz are both about $100, and both worth every penny. Get some good AW IMR batteries to power them and you will have vaping perfection. Before I got a joker, I was constantly looking at (and occasionally buying) new mods, always wondering what I was missing. Now I know what I was missing. And now that I have it, I have no desire to shop for anything else.

 

[Vapenstein]

Why mods? Better battery (repeat that 100x). Sexier hardware. More voltage options. Choice is good.

Why HV? HUGE TH. Steam bath vapor. Some juice is great with it, some isn't.

The Chinese stuff wouldn't do it for me. Wimpy, fails relatively quickly. I think standard 510 is a gateway to better hardware. eGo and clones are a huge improvement, but even they are just a stepping stone to better hardware. Get a Copper, Precise, Prodigy, etc and you won't think about hardware any more (well, except to buy more mods because this is a hobby too) because you're already there.

 

[roxics]

Thank you so much everyone for your information. I understand now. In which case i will now need to check out some of these mods. Any further recommendations and places to purchase from?
The only thing I'm not clear about is that some of you said you prefer mechanical mods. What is that?

 

[Vapenstein]

A mechanical mod has no electrical or solid state parts. All mechanical. Mechanical things may fail eventually, but they are far less likely to, and can be fixed if they do. Electrical is prone to failure and may not be user serviceable.

 

[Automaton]

Thank you so much everyone for your information. I understand now. In which case i will now need to check out some of these mods. Any further recommendations and places to purchase from?
The only thing I'm not clear about is that some of you said you prefer mechanical mods. What is that?

I've been looking at mechanical because of its longevity. With basic cleaning, it will last a damn long time. Even if something breaks, it's a relatively easy fix. And you can have a mod that basically lasts forever.

Electrical mods often fail within a couple years of regular use, and often less, and if you plan to try to fix them, you better know something about soldering. And if it has chips or something, don't even bother.

I wound up landing on the GGTB, because of its price point, simplicity, and construction quality. I'm not concerned about juice feeding, vari-volt, or other extras. I just wanted a good, pocket-able mechanical mod at a fair price with safety features. And the GGTB fits what I'm looking for.

Now if only VaporKing would come back in stock!!

I'll letcha know what I think when they stop torturing me.

 

[roxics]

I wound up landing on the GGTB, because of its price point, simplicity, and construction quality.

Now if only VaporKing would come back in stock!!

So just out of curiousity, why did you land on this GGTB over something like an in-stock and less expensive Rough Stack?

 

[Automaton]

So just out of curiousity, why did you land on this GGTB over something like an in-stock and less expensive Rough Stack?

It was basically one big reason. I have a repetitive stress injury, and my thumb is weak. Top switches are out of the question. Which is also the same reason I eliminated the Omega.

The Roughstack is also not fully mechanical, though I understand the circuit board is easily replaced.

 

[wv2win]

No, using an LR on an eGo is equal in wattage to vaping at 4.1v. It's a far cry from 6v.

Vaping at 5v with a regular atty is 10 watts. Vaping an eGo with an LR is only 6.8 watts.

Why 6v? No idea. It's way too much for me. But some people like it. Some people also find HV atties last longer.

Why mods? Well, because stock batteries, like eGo's, can't really handle LR's.

Its safer to use an LR on an eGo than it is a regular 510, but they still don't have enough amperage to safely run an LR, and the switch can't handle the heat. I have killed eGo batteries by using an LR on them.

So for me, the reason I'm going to mods is because my eGo's can't handle the strain. And this is true of all stock batteries. If you want to run an LR without risking destroying batteries, you really have to go to mods.

i like that they use "regular" batteries that aren't e-cig specific. there will be no worries about finding them in the future.

i've found i don't like the small size of standard e-cigs and prefer the larger body of a mod like my SB as well. it's just more comfortable to me. i have no desire to vape with something that is close in size to a cigarette and got over that pretty quickly when i first started.

Two excellent points here. For me, 5 volts with the 3.0 resistence of an 801 atomizer or cartomizer is the ideal combination to vape. Being able to get batteries that only cost $2.50 and are not proprietary is another big plus for using a mod. And I also DO NOT want anyone to think I am smoking an analog, so using a mod solves that problem, also.