Wick materials. Safe vs dangerous.

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ProRo

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Update after two tanks of juice of 3ml (mainly PG) each:
Both stil going strong and even.

The gauze:
The gauze in which I use a sweeter juice is now brown (not burned), no color change on the liquid in the tank.
I made the coil first around a 3mm drill. The wickhole in the DID is 3mm. Then I rolled a piece of gauze and stuck it through the coil in the wickhole. Easiest way to set up. Can put a new gauze wick in without distroying the coil.
Wicking is still perfect after 6ml and no crud on the coil.

The Yarn:
I took mij DID apart and filled the wickhole (3mm) with 9 pieces of yarn #12 and 3 inch long from the bottom. The idea was if the wick becomes less, i can pull a new piece of wick through the coil.
Then I put a 1,5mm nail in the wickhole and wrapped the coil, removed the nail afterwards.
In this I use a less sweet juice and after 6ml of juice the wick is caramel colored. No crud and wicking is still awesome.

I think the outcome will be equal and highly depends on what juice you use as to longivity of use.
BTW. I tried Bobas Bounty also but the wicking on braided cotton yarn was no good, I braided a wick from the yarn to tight I think.
Have to try the Bobas on the yarn strings and the gauze.

Keep you posted on results!

After more than 30ml each and two weeks of use I received the Kir Fanis "Clear Windows" for mij DID's so I'm going to rebuild the wicks/coils. Both yarn and gauze still work 100%, no crud on the coils. Little preference for the yarn in terms of wicking but the difference could be tightness of the wicks.
I'm fully on to cotton now, no more SS or silica. I rebuild a Vision with 4 strands of #12 yarn (long wicks) working great with my Halo Torque 56 liquid.
I also got a new ViVi NoVa that I rebuild straight away (still with the pics of the silica pieces in mind) with also 4 strands of #12 yarn (long wicks) where I'm using my AVE Gorilla Juice (100%VG, thick juice) in. Works flawlessly.
All juices tast better with cotton, no more silica dryhits. You know when you are low on juice with a lesser flavor but not those awfull scratchy silica or SS dryhits.

So, conclusion for me: Cotton Rules!
 

MickeyRat

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Cool_Breeze

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I'd like to investigate the use of various juices with cotton wicks.

I'm concerend that the darker, particle laiden juices clog cottons wicks (perhaps all wicks) in rather short order when compared to light, clear juices.

To further investigate, I've started a thread over in the eJuice forum to discuss cotton wick use relative to particular eJuices. I think this discussion may be a bit off the general thrust of this thread. (I hope this isn't interpreted as a hijack attempt, but rather a focus on the types of ejuices in interaction with wicks.)

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...uices-work-well-cotton-wicks.html#post6720339

I hope many of the participants here will post over there. It may help to broaded the exposure to the cotton wick concepts as well.

Thank you!
 

TomCatt

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Tom - Do you know the difference between Type A Kanthal and Type D?

There's been posts around pointing out the differences; but not sure where at the moment :unsure: I don't think that there's much difference; I think a slight difference in the composition, maybe a lower melting point (which makes no difference for our use).

A think the main difference in resistance wires is between Kanthal and NiChrome. Kanthal is a Iron-Chromium-Aluminium alloy while NiChrome is a nickel-chromium alloy. Scubabatdan says that kanthal is more durable than nichrome.

I have kanthal A because it was available on eBay when I went looking for it.
 

MickeyRat

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I'd like to investigate the use of various juices with cotton wicks.

I'm concerend that the darker, particle laiden juices clog cottons wicks (perhaps all wicks) in rather short order when compared to light, clear juices.

My DIY juice is on the dark side. In my Penelope with a cotton wick, it doesn't seem to clog the wick but, it does gum up the coil to the point that only part of it is firing. That kind of sucks because I can't do a dry burn to get rid of the gunk. I actually tried pulling the wick to do a dry burn on the coil the last time this happened but, that's going to take some practice. About the time it was firing it's whole length, it burned up. I think I might be able to get it right with practice though.
 

Flyer

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I've been re-wicking stock CE2s. Just remove the silica wick and thread a cotton wick through the coil. I've removed the cotton wick, dry burned the coil and threaded a new cotton wick through the coil.


Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk

I've never tried just replacing the wick. The damn coil wire is so fragile, I don't know how you accomplish it. Would be nice not to have to recoil.
 

Tarkvemada

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After trying Cotton, Bamboo yarn and ceramic I'd say that bamboo gives me the best results so far.. Creamy tobacco juices tastes ugly with ceramic wick. Cotton I got gives pretty weak taste.. I use bamboo yarn from Michael's, 7-8 layers ( it's pretty thin). haven't experienced burning taste at all..
 

Youssefa

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There's been posts around pointing out the differences; but not sure where at the moment :unsure: I don't think that there's much difference; I think a slight difference in the composition, maybe a lower melting point (which makes no difference for our use).

A think the main difference in resistance wires is between Kanthal and NiChrome. Kanthal is a Iron-Chromium-Aluminium alloy while NiChrome is a nickel-chromium alloy. Scubabatdan says that kanthal is more durable than nichrome.

I have kanthal A because it was available on eBay when I went looking for it.

Nichrome tends to POP when heated, IF there is any tension on the wire.

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 2
 

MickeyRat

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Of course you can use SS on penelope and oddy

Only by wrapping the part of the wick under the coil. You can't use it for the wick itself as you can in a genesis unless there's something I don't know about. If I'm wrong, I'll thank you for a little education.

Bluegrasslover has posted about good results he's gotten by putting a thin cotton covering over an SS wick in a genesis. I thought that was probably what he was referring to.
 

Roxxette

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Only by wrapping the part of the wick under the coil. You can't use it for the wick itself as you can in a genesis unless there's something I don't know about. If I'm wrong, I'll thank you for a little education.

Bluegrasslover has posted about good results he's gotten by putting a thin cotton covering over an SS wick in a genesis. I thought that was probably what he was referring to.

Im planning on doing it these way: wrap mesh on the wick so it feeds the mesh BUT ive seen people that use mesh only using the method that does not cover the wick channels, apparently it feeds with no issue either fiber wick or mesh.

I also plan on trying it U wick style with mesh, i dont think it should be a problem.
 

bluegrasslover

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I can do that to a point but, the Penelope isn't a genesis style. I can't use SS in it. So, there's nothing but cotton.

I'm just saying to try making your wick a bit smaller in diameter. No need for SS. I only used the "qtip" in my GTUS but I prefer just cotton.
 

bluegrasslover

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I'm just saying to try making your wick a bit smaller in diameter. No need for SS. I only used the "qtip" in my GTUS but I prefer just cotton.

Clarification...I'm not talking about changing the size of the coil, just the wick. And, not saying that this will fix your problem but I was having similar issues and I believe that making the wick smaller helped me.
 
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