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Cotton wick after two weeks.
That's just nasty. It had to taste bad! Since it takes about 2 minutes start to finish I'm changing wicks after a few days.
I'm not so worried about the juice feeding or bending it but, I have a hard time believing that the oxide coating will stand up to the ring that holds it all all together. Thinking about it though, it might be possible to put a layer of cotton or something under the SS on the positive side. That might keep it from shorting.
Thanks for the clarification. I wasn't sure that's what you meant given some of your previous posts.
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I give you guys some brave props trying q tip sticks hahaha man this will be crazy if it works hahahah!
Interesting twist this thread has taken.
I played with these a while back but never implemented them because they are made of wood. But if you ever have looked at them they have Many tiny tubular substructures within the tube itself.
=http://scentdeals.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=129
However with the advent of cotton to insulate the wood from burning, I could see this (picture this) cutting the reed on several slants or conical shaped underneath the cotton batten rolled Q tip type set-up. The reed would effectively replace the syringe as the capillary tube.
Thoughts?
I played with these a while back but never implemented them because they are made of wood. But if you ever have looked at them they have Many tiny tubular substructures within the tube itself.
=http://scentdeals.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=129
However with the advent of cotton to insulate the wood from burning, I could see this (picture this) cutting the reed on several slants or conical shaped underneath the cotton batten rolled Q tip type set-up. The reed would effectively replace the syringe as the capillary tube.
Thoughts?
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Interesting twist this thread has taken.
=http://scentdeals.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=129
However with the advent of cotton to insulate the wood from burning, I could see this (picture this) cutting the reed on several slants or conical shaped underneath the cotton batten rolled Q tip type set-up. The reed would effectively replace the syringe as the capillary tube.
Thoughts?
Hmmm, those may actually work, instead of making cuts to make an outlet to the cotton, maybe just take a pair of pliers and kind of crush/crack open/pulp up the little reed tubes just under where you plan on wrapping your cotton?...
You know this is getting pretty "Hippy" right?
I was thinking more along the lines of steam punk. 
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The juice may have to be thinned out a bit. Those micro tubes 'are' small.
Maybe I'll start a franchise like Scentsy. I'll call it Vapesey Sticks. lol
The juice may have to be thinned out a bit. Those micro tubes 'are' small.
Maybe I'll start a franchise like Scentsy. I'll call it Vapesey Sticks. lol
But then you'd have to start mixing and selling juice optimized for the Vapesy Sticks
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Roxxette, if you can manage an oxidized SS wick on a Peneolope, I bow in awe at your electrical prowess. For me it was an exercise in frustration. I never had it go for more than a few seconds without shorting.
After spending hours on that failed attempt, I unrolled part of it and wrapped it around a cotton wick just under the coil. So far, the flavor's a bit muted but, it feels like it's breaking in. Time will tell if it will help the coil last longer.
If anyone's had success re-wicking the vivi nova with cotton I would love some pointers or better yet a video. I've made several attempts, had some success the first time, but since then have been getting bad flavor, week vapor and gunked up chard coils within a day of re-wicking. I've used batton and cheese cloth and have been getting the same poor results each time. Oh, and I'm using Kanthal 32A with five wraps, usually about 2.4Ω, tries doubling the legs and also just single legs off the coil.
Pretty please, and thank you!
Pretty please, and thank you!
Make your wick thinner your coil isn't being feed enough juice. Cotton plumps up when it absorbs juice and chokes off the wick where it goes into the head. I use cotton yarn and I just cut of a length (the yarn is made of 4 twisted strands) at first I was using all 4 but with some thicker juice's it is to many strands I pulled out 1 strand and it doesn't choke anymore.
qtip in a defcon.
Thats it, Pretty much what I had in mind.
You should be able to pull that one out when done and drop a new one in. Hows she workin for ya?
Hi mate, first try was like these:
Im going to try tomorrow or the next day with just mesh but nothing in the channels, people say liquid is feed with no problem that way either with fiber wick or mesh; after that last test will be a sort of U ss wick.
Aslong the ss mesh have a good oxy. theres no reason it will short, in all my attys the mesh touches all sides and the bottom and never had issue so i dont see why it will be any different on the ody/penelope.
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That's cheating. I was able to do that. I meant all SS nothing else.
Its not cheating man lol i did it .... that because was the first test, i took the wick out leaving the SS only and still works the same but you need to do some work with liquid control in order to not flood it, putting mesh in the channels like in "U" style wouldnt cause any problem im sure, in fact when i come home after lunch im going to do it and let you know.
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Well, works with mesh only like i say but its a pain to screw the ring or the base to the point they stuck, if you try to use small portion of mesh it will brittle.
Either use mesh only with nothing in the channels and play with the liquid control or use fiber wick or something else to feed the mesh, it probably will work the best on a ggts with the airflow control.
Either use mesh only with nothing in the channels and play with the liquid control or use fiber wick or something else to feed the mesh, it probably will work the best on a ggts with the airflow control.
Great Pictures and info. Is any adapter (510/510) etc... needed for Penelope attached to a ProVari? I should have one on the way from COV this week.
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