Last I checked I didn't see any other holes in the cap, but I'll look again. Thanks for the tip!
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Last I checked I didn't see any other holes in the cap, but I'll look again. Thanks for the tip!
Sharp point....prob, I would lube the outside of the point also. Geez I'm actually starting to sound like I know what I'm talking about.
I just recently watched Scott's review on the Katana (if only because I was considering one I saw on the classys)...I imagine it was a V1 by the date of the review...one of the things he noted was the wicking issue, the Katana (it least the one on the review) had 2 holes in the teflon top, one for the wick and one fill hole with a screw cap (once the screw was thrown away and the hole just left open, ta da!)...when I built my own Frankengenesis, same issue...and this applies to mesh and cotton (I've currently got cotton in it).
Capillary action works best if it's not fighting against the vacuum that the very act of wicking is creating, unless the juice tank is open to the atmosphere so pressures can equalize you'll probably have wicking issues. Mesh "drinking straw" wicks can (and do) "breath" through the center hole but not as efficiently (air going down is fighting against the juice coming up). This isn't cast in concrete, some may never experience an issue but if you tend to vape hard this lack of efficiency is what's probably causing the slow recovery and dryish hits
For my Franengenesis I used a silicon carto cap for the base, I took a 16 gauge needle and cut a 1/4 piece out of it, on one end I cut on a 45 degree angle, the other straight then just pressed it through a clear area of the silicon cap, made sure it was clear of obstructions and left it there (if you're concerned you may press the top cap in you can "drill" it in slowly)...the performance is like day for night...again, this applies to both mesh and cotton...just my
Capillary action works best if it's not fighting against the vacuum that the very act of wicking is creating, unless the juice tank is open to the atmosphere so pressures can equalize you'll probably have wicking issues. Mesh "drinking straw" wicks can (and do) "breath" through the center hole but not as efficiently (air going down is fighting against the juice coming up). This isn't cast in concrete, some may never experience an issue but if you tend to vape hard this lack of efficiency is what's probably causing the slow recovery and dryish hits
For my Franengenesis I used a silicon carto cap for the base, I took a 16 gauge needle and cut a 1/4 piece out of it, on one end I cut on a 45 degree angle, the other straight then just pressed it through a clear area of the silicon cap, made sure it was clear of obstructions and left it there (if you're concerned you may press the top cap in you can "drill" it in slowly)...the performance is like day for night...again, this applies to both mesh and cotton...just my
I just recently watched Scott's review on the Katana (if only because I was considering one I saw on the classys)...I imagine it was a V1 by the date of the review...one of the things he noted was the wicking issue, the Katana (it least the one on the review) had 2 holes in the teflon top, one for the wick and one fill hole with a screw cap (once the screw was thrown away and the hole just left open, ta da!)...when I built my own Frankengenesis, same issue...and this applies to mesh and cotton (I've currently got cotton in it).
Capillary action works best if it's not fighting against the vacuum that the very act of wicking is creating, unless the juice tank is open to the atmosphere so pressures can equalize you'll probably have wicking issues. Mesh "drinking straw" wicks can (and do) "breath" through the center hole but not as efficiently (air going down is fighting against the juice coming up). This isn't cast in concrete, some may never experience an issue but if you tend to vape hard this lack of efficiency is what's probably causing the slow recovery and dryish hits
For my Franengenesis I used a silicon carto cap for the base, I took a 16 gauge needle and cut a 1/4 piece out of it, on one end I cut on a 45 degree angle, the other straight then just pressed it through a clear area of the silicon cap, made sure it was clear of obstructions and left it there (if you're concerned you may press the top cap in you can "drill" it in slowly)...the performance is like day for night...again, this applies to both mesh and cotton...just my
I see your 2 cents and I raise you a dollar. I agree 100%, its simple physics. Eventually the vacuum effect is going to interrupt the flow.
I just recently watched Scott's review on the Katana (if only because I was considering one I saw on the classys)...I imagine it was a V1 by the date of the review...one of the things he noted was the wicking issue, the Katana (it least the one on the review) had 2 holes in the teflon top, one for the wick and one fill hole with a screw cap (once the screw was thrown away and the hole just left open, ta da!)...when I built my own Frankengenesis, same issue...and this applies to mesh and cotton (I've currently got cotton in it).
Capillary action works best if it's not fighting against the vacuum that the very act of wicking is creating, unless the juice tank is open to the atmosphere so pressures can equalize you'll probably have wicking issues. Mesh "drinking straw" wicks can (and do) "breath" through the center hole but not as efficiently (air going down is fighting against the juice coming up). This isn't cast in concrete, some may never experience an issue but if you tend to vape hard this lack of efficiency is what's probably causing the slow recovery and dryish hits
For my Franengenesis I used a silicon carto cap for the base, I took a 16 gauge needle and cut a 1/4 piece out of it, on one end I cut on a 45 degree angle, the other straight then just pressed it through a clear area of the silicon cap, made sure it was clear of obstructions and left it there (if you're concerned you may press the top cap in you can "drill" it in slowly)...the performance is like day for night...again, this applies to both mesh and cotton...just my
I'm having a tough time visualizing this. Built a cheap line, and I'm giving up on SS mesh, I can't oxidize it for crap. I threw some cotton in there and it wasn't wicking at all.
Just so I'm clear, you actually built a cheap line and your giving up due to oxidizing the wick? Thats the easiest part of rolling and coiling, never mind actually making a line itself. Whats the issue? We can work this out.
no no, I mean i'm giving up on the stainless steel
I CAN NOT oxidize it, been struggling with this for weeks now
water, VG, heck I jsut tried sugar water, nada.
I CAN NOT oxidize it, been struggling with this for weeks now
water, VG, heck I jsut tried sugar water, nada.
Try oxidizing with baking soda and water... do the red hot 3 times and the quenching 3 times and you should be good to go. I have seen that baking soda helps and if that does not work.... another way is to wrap some tissue paper around the SS and then put your coil on and try it that way.... in time the tissue papper is gone but you will be safe from any shorts. Myself, I like the gauze wicks .... I only had 1 dry hit in about 4 weeks with it and the taste is so much better.
Let me start of first by saying. After 4 weeks of using gauze wicks in my E-2's. I still like em. I only use tobacco flavors and I love that earthy warm vape almost like a mild cigar. But every now and then I yearn for something a little lighter in the taste and vape dept. So as I was sitting down getting ready to make a new one, When I spied my SS wick over in the corner looking lonely.
Yup, I took my reg fat gauze wick and rolled it in the ss. Well I got that light tasting vape I was looking for and the vapor production is the same as plain gauze wick. Prolly nothing to write home about but it gives the gauze/cotton another nudge to the Holy Grail of wicks.
@Cyrus Vap, I used the same process I told you about to oxidize the wick. Quick easy 5 minutes of quenching while I was doing other stuff. I mean I rolled it, knocked it about and squeezed it to get it in the E-2. Still no continuity what so ever.
Hope you finally get it. Good luck.
Yup, I took my reg fat gauze wick and rolled it in the ss. Well I got that light tasting vape I was looking for and the vapor production is the same as plain gauze wick. Prolly nothing to write home about but it gives the gauze/cotton another nudge to the Holy Grail of wicks.
@Cyrus Vap, I used the same process I told you about to oxidize the wick. Quick easy 5 minutes of quenching while I was doing other stuff. I mean I rolled it, knocked it about and squeezed it to get it in the E-2. Still no continuity what so ever.
Hope you finally get it. Good luck.
Hey road rash, I've done so much complaining about SS I think I lost track of the process you told me about lol
Was it in this thread?
Was it in this thread?
@ Cyrus Vap
There's a good vid over in Raidy's Genisis thread, (But don't ask where that thread is soooooooo long)
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/132663-all-my-mods-part1.html#post2083801
There's a good vid over in Raidy's Genisis thread, (But don't ask where that thread is soooooooo long)
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/132663-all-my-mods-part1.html#post2083801
For the SS quenching. I used a long carto condom. Put any connector 510/808 without the grommet or center post in the end of the condom. It should fit fairly snug. Fill up the condom with juice, Henykind. stand up the ss roll in the hole in the connector. Put a couple drops of juice on the SS and light it like a candle. When it burns up half the juice in the condom, Take it out turn it around and stick it back in the condom, burn the other half. Till the juice runs out. You should be good to go.
If you need I will try and upload pics tomorrow
If you need I will try and upload pics tomorrow
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That device is The GrymLampOfAladdin it's a split-system - battaries and vaping part connected by quad core cable (2 for power and 2 for button signal). Construction of vaping part shown on video below.
Liquid feeds from tank like in genesis , but wick comes through 2 holes, and located parallel to a platform, so, we have something like genesis with normal liquid feeding.
Usually i use coils from 1,5 to 4 ohms ajusting volt to have about 8,5 watt. Amount of vapour depends on amount of VG and water. When cloud falls down it's bacause a lot of vg.
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