Wick materials. Safe vs dangerous.

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BJ43

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Not sure how a SS wick/coil 'rope' would do in an actual CE2; even with the coil in the ceramic cup, there is still some degradation of the plastic tube over time from the heat. Now a ViVi CE2-style tank might be an option :D


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Curious if in a GSA and the base wick hole is the neg contact, would it only heat the portion above the base between the neg base and the positive post and the lower ss rope wick/coil under the base in the tank would not heat up.
 

Quigsworth

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I boiled both cotton yarn and candlewick. I didn't see the sizing from the wick the way I did with the yarn but, I smelled scent in the steam from the wick.

Here's the issue I have with candle wick (or yarns/strings)...and with the amount I've researched on the cotton production/milling process I almost feel like an armchair subject matter expert :laugh:...there's several assembly line "outputs" throughout the cotton milling process or different variants/form factors for a multitude of uses...almost right out of the gate when I found this thread I googled the process (from multiple sources), read up on sizing (what is it?), the gassing process (what is it?), bleaching (we know what that is), treated with fragrances etc...the reason I tend to stick with cheese cloth/rolled/gauze is because this cotton is taken out of the system before it's processed into "textile" cotton. You simply cannot make "medical/food grade" cotton after it's processed with the chemicals required to bleach, relax then starch (and a multitude of other processes) cotton required by the textile industry. Textile corporations requires that the bulk cotton they purchase be able to run smoothly through multi-million dollar equipment at a staggering rate of speed (perfectly) and that is not going to happen without a high degree of refinement and stabilization. These machines create products such as string (by extension candle wick), yarn, sewing/darning thread, cloth, etc...that where never meant for human consumption and are prepared with that in mind...while nothing I've read suggest that these processes/chemicals are toxic, it is what it is...

From the research I've done there's a huge difference between a spool of sewing thread and the thread I pull out of cheese cloth for my Quigsticks...the physical similarity is where it ends, the processes in making those two products are worlds apart.

but as usual...just my :2c:, take it or leave it...
 

MickeyRat

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Gauze and cheese cloth don't get sizing or scent but, they do get bleached and I'm not sure you can say for certain that some of the other processes you mentioned aren't applied as well. It's clearly not raw cotton. I'm sure that there is a difference between the thread in cheese cloth and that in sewing. Sewing thread is not intended to be absorbent. However that's not all processing. It's how tightly wound it is etc. So, I'm okay with getting most of the processing goodies out by boiling. It's unlikely that a lot is making it into the vape when it's heated by the resistance wire.
 

Quigsworth

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Gauze and cheese cloth don't get sizing or scent but, they do get bleached and I'm not sure you can say for certain that some of the other processes you mentioned aren't applied as well. It's clearly not raw cotton. I'm sure that there is a difference between the thread in cheese cloth and that in sewing. Sewing thread is not intended to be absorbent. However that's not all processing. It's how tightly wound it is etc. So, I'm okay with getting most of the processing goodies out by boiling. It's unlikely that a lot is making it into the vape when it's heated by the resistance wire.

I completely agree Mickey...the interweb is great for telling us how things are supposed to be done, all we can do is hope big manufacturing actually does it :D...I don't think any of us are so naive to think that "efficiencies" in production to maximize profit tends to over-ride process flow charts...but in concert with my reading I've also accumulated a crazy array of "cotton" products and have run some of my own albeit very unscientific tests...I call them my wick race tests, make similar size wicks of varying materials, run a long pin through the ends to suspend them over a beaker (ok, highball glass) and pour in coloured PG...one of the main reasons why I've focused so much on cheese cloth is because it doesn't just beat the competition, it crushes it...and in answer to the boiling to remove, yup, the boiled version of any material beats it's unboiled brother every time (even cheese cloth...I also boiled batton, don't, it's like dropping a pack of rice noodles into a hot wok)

On the bleached cheese cloth issue, apparently Bed, Bath and Beyond carries an all natural, unbleached cheese cloth...going to pick some up and give it a shot
 

Quigsworth

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You know, I haven't tried a bamboo product, I bought some from Micheals but do you think I can find it???...I have an industrious 18 yr old boy in my house...it's probably with 37 rolls of my electrical tape, my mini socket set and my fav surgical clamp (I don't want to know) ...

Volume is tricky, you would need a finite material amount (by weight?) to properly compare and graduated test tubes (don't think I haven't thought about it :facepalm: I need a Gummy session)...but just from looking (and cleaning up after) some of the big "holders" of the PG are the batton and boiled Peaches and cream yarn...the swell rate of those is crazy...making them ideal "dripper" materials I would think...also, I did try what Road suggested and took some of the boiled #1/0 wick and picked it apart a bit...big difference. but again, not a big "holder"...the conclusion I've drawn is that braided mats, by nature of their design, can't swell as much as a simply twisted mat...which may also inhibit it's capillary action
 

Quigsworth

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...One of my failures, as a father was to teach him to put things back where he found them. Bad enough that I forget where I put things.:D

Pfft, It's a right of passage BJ...my dad attempted to teach me the same thing, and I made a similar attempt with my boy...about the only good that come from that futile process is that I usually know where to look :facepalm:
 

roadrash

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On a good note, this mornings E-2 with unbraided candle wick is one of my best yet. For the first time I tried the Quig-count of the threads. 10 strands that got doubled to 20 on the pull through. It fit fairly snug in my usual set up of 2.2ohm w/36gauge Nichrome.

Now for the best part. I usually run the above on 1-18650 3000 mah bat and it's just right. Not this morning though. It was way to much power and I had to drop it down to 3 volts to tame the beast. After 5 mil or so I was able to use a old 14500 with a bunny ball on the cup. Which I'm still using now 4 hours later. The point is I need less power to achieve more V/T/TH. This is optimized vaping. :):)
 

Cool_Breeze

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You know, I haven't tried a bamboo product, I bought some from Micheals but do you think I can find it???...I have an industrious 18 yr old boy in my house...it's probably with 37 rolls of my electrical tape, my mini socket set and my fav surgical clamp (I don't want to know) ...

Volume is tricky, you would need a finite material amount (by weight?) to properly compare and graduated test tubes (don't think I haven't thought about it :facepalm: I need a Gummy session)...but just from looking (and cleaning up after) some of the big "holders" of the PG are the batton and boiled Peaches and cream yarn...the swell rate of those is crazy...making them ideal "dripper" materials I would think...also, I did try what Road suggested and took some of the boiled #1/0 wick and picked it apart a bit...big difference. but again, not a big "holder"...the conclusion I've drawn is that braided mats, by nature of their design, can't swell as much as a simply twisted mat...which may also inhibit it's capillary action

With a few more vairables and measurements, I could chart it. : )
 

Cool_Breeze

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I think I heard the mail truck several minutes ago...lemme go look...

Yep! ...got it. I also received a juice sample.

I'll set a kitchen timer this time on the boiling. The one Bamboo Yarn wick I have is doing even better than new after good rinse. My perception is that it clogs up little with light juices.

You're a kind man, supervape!
 

Quigsworth

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When I think of it I put a "as Road calls them" bunny ball in the cup, then rework an airhole with a tiny Philips head screw driver after, then lay my wick/coil on it (I used to do that with a small chunk of ceramic pre cotton days)...the reason why is because Ody's in long mode have this thing where they get floody at half tank and it acts as a buffer...this is also cured by closing the flow, vaping through the gurgle then setting a tighter flow till re-fill...don't ask why Ody's do this, Imeo doesn't even know and he designed it :blink:...it doesn't make it work any better, the Ody already rocks but ya, it does work as a buffer when it comes to the half tank gurgle.
 

BJ43

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6 days on a double batten wick on the vivi. This has been the best setup so far and so good I hated to rewick and coil. I decide to try washing. I washed the top wick and it came out almost white again. The coil and inner wick I used a water pick. In between hitting it with water I wet burned the wick and the steam loosened the gunk. When I could see the white cotton under the coil I reassembled and after a few hits to replace the remaining water with juice, it is good as new.
 

Quigsworth

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you know you could've just re-wicked/re-coiled it in half the time right :p

I'm in a bad way boys...I traded off my only SS Line on hand for a Penny (it was packed up from yesterday afternoon, and now it's gone)...It feels like the time I sold my mint '69 Cougar XR7 GT full load w/leather for a down payment on our house...as Joni Mitchel put it..."you don't know what you've got till it's gone..." I've got my hybrid which rocks but I feel...:(
 
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