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Looking good Bap, does the Eclipse tin have flex to it like an Altoids does? The switch assembly is just great.
I'm having modding withdrawels, got good progress on one at home and three days of being away from it, plus it is still too snowy to do outdoor grinding or sanding.
This cheers me up some.
I'm having modding withdrawels, got good progress on one at home and three days of being away from it, plus it is still too snowy to do outdoor grinding or sanding.
This cheers me up some.
I know you are packed in there for space, but it would be neat to harness that flex to actuate the micro switches.
I know you are packed in there for space, but it would be neat to harness that flex to actuate the micro switches.
I have a little different idea that I'm going to try, but I think that would work.
"touch screen" wattage adjustment buttons.
Here is the proof of concept and it seems to be working great!!!
Couple of low profile tact switches from RadioShack....no pivot is needed everything just needs to be held in place with enough movement to operate the switches.
It doesn't need to be done on the dna board, that's just works for my application. But your still limited by the gd short cable.
Here is the proof of concept and it seems to be working great!!!
Couple of low profile tact switches from RadioShack....no pivot is needed everything just needs to be held in place with enough movement to operate the switches.
It doesn't need to be done on the dna board, that's just works for my application. But your still limited by the gd short cable.
Ahhh, there you go, a touch screen rocker. Still it won't have that metal twang to it the tin could get. There isn't a function in the DNA needs both buttons pressed simultaneously is there?
I'm not sure off hand, but the above will allow you to push both at the same time.
The screen is glass and in general fairly strong, however I did break a screen when an unprotected screen met the edge of a steel tube from being knocked of a bench and falling 4'. The ribbon cable connection on the other hand is kinda delicate.
I plan on using a piece of tinted polycarbonate in front of the screen to protect it.
Dang where in the eff is my gyro tape!!!!
I think it will work perfectly....a piece in between the switches...wam-bam thin and done.
Gyro tape is basically just double sided squishy foam tape.
I think it will work perfectly....a piece in between the switches...wam-bam thin and done.
Gyro tape is basically just double sided squishy foam tape.
Hum...bag.... from my experienve the display glass is fragile also....I put a bit of pressure on one and poof....cracked.....I treat the display just like the ribbon....
Good to know....I haven't had any trouble with the ribbon or screen during normal handling.
Progress....I think I'm going to get a thin sheet of copper or brass and cut hole it and solder to the lid flange, trapping the polycarbonate in but lose. Easy way to make external wattage adjustment and keep the lid easy open.
Looking really cool bap. Is the polycarbonate angled in any way to aid in the rocking?
No the polycarbonate just sets on top of the screen...and the foam tape is all that is really needed for rocking, plus you can actuate both buttons at once if needed.
Here is ready to be wired in.
Haha....funny you should ask...I was going to use a 3S 1300mah 40-80c lipo reconfigured to a 1S2P 2600mah....but with doing the bottom screen thing I couldn't quite fit the charger
.....It was so close to fitting....I'm pretty sure I could have got it all to fit with a more traditional layout.So for the time being I'm going to run two 800mah for 1S2P 1600mah and probably switch to two 1200's when I can get them.
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