Woodvil spring replacement question

[ltrainer]

I shorted my Woodvil and the spring did its job. I have no idea how its soldered in but If I can do this myself I would rather do it than have to send it out to the hospital. Any tips on replacing the spring myself. I have soldering gear here. Heres a pic of my spring. I see a dab of solder in the red square. Help me Mr. Wizard. I have extra springs.

 

[nerak]

I have two Woodvil's that are going to the spa for a new spring. Same deal, a short.

Looks like solder to the metal post thing that sticks up from the switch.

I wouldn't dare try it. But, I have never soldered.

These are my Woodvil's. I won't take a chance to mess, or melt something.

Hope you find your answer.

 

[redeyedancer]

IT is easy to replace the spring . Hold your solder iron on the joint as soon as it melts the solder .remove the spring with something I use tweezers but a knife will work . Place the new spring back in place apply a dab of flux and solder it back in place

 

[nerak]

IT is easy to replace the spring . Hold your solder iron on the joint as soon as it melts the solder .remove the spring with something I use tweezers but a knife will work . Place the new spring back in place apply a dab of flux and solder it back in place

I guess maybe I should just get a solder gun and some solder and tackle mine then.

How much trouble if I mess it up?

Oh hell, guess I can try.

 

[nerak]

Hey Loren, since you started this.........

Will this work? Is that enough watts? Is that solder wire good? New Pencil Type Soldering Iron Welding Gun Tool Solder Tube Wire 45W | eBay

This is YOUR fault! LOL

 

[Justice]

Hey Loren, since you started this.........

Will this work? Is that enough watts? Is that solder wire good? New Pencil Type Soldering Iron Welding Gun Tool Solder Tube Wire 45W | eBay

This is YOUR fault! LOL

that should work so long as you don't over do it with the heat on the wood let the iron warm up good first so the time on the solder is faster I prefer to solder with a micro torch but probably not recommended for this application

 

[nerak]

that should work so long as you don't over do it with the heat on the wood let the iron warm up good first so the time on the solder is faster I prefer to solder with a micro torch but probably not recommended for this application

I am totally sure you wouldn't direct me wrong on this Darrel. You don't want me to mess up my wood!

From what I can tell the iron should not have to come close to any wood. I am so scared to do this.

 

[Justice]

I am totally sure you wouldn't direct me wrong on this Darrel. You don't want me to mess up my wood!

From what I can tell the iron should not have to come close to any wood. I am so scared to do this.

I could try to describe it but maybe best to watch a couple youtube vids

this is a good one here very basic he keeps it simple

 

[ltrainer]

Thank you Darrel for rescuing me. I might have a soldering iron but that doesnt mean I know how to use it.

Well I got the new spring on and its back to vaping my Woodvil again. I didnt know the springs were different in Grand and Woodvils until I got the bad spring off. The Woodvil springs have an extra hole drilled in them. So I drilled a hole in the Grand spring and got it going.

I have no idea how I got a short. I was using the same coil for a little over 3 weeks. During that time I never took the RM2 off my Woodvil. I did build a new coil once I installed the new spring. All is well.

ETA: well, its not so well. It vaped great for 3 hours or so then popped another spring. Guess it will be taking a trip to Maine. It wanted to get out of town anyway.

 

[redeyedancer]

If you get a chance email or pm me a picture of the base of your reomizer

 

[JC Okie]

I guess maybe I should just get a solder gun and some solder and tackle mine then.

How much trouble if I mess it up?

Oh hell, guess I can try.

Karen, you are definitely my hero!!! (heroine????)

 

[nerak]

Karen, you are definitely my hero!!! (heroine????)

Well, I did purchase the soldering iron. El Cheapo, but it should do the job. Or, let's say it will help ME do it!

Worst thing I hope is that I will end up sending them back.

Guess I better check on some spare springs! Think I have one at least.

Please hold all accolades until I complete my attempt. LOL!

 

[MamaTried]

Well, I did purchase the soldering iron. El Cheapo, but it should do the job. Or, let's say it will help ME do it!

Worst thing I hope is that I will end up sending them back.

Guess I better check on some spare springs! Think I have one at least.

Please hold all accolades until I complete my attempt. LOL!

as a former professional unsolderer/solderer (i began my silicon valley career as what was often referred to back then as a 'rework girl' ) Darrel's advice was spot on.

you will do fine.

 

[nerak]

as a former professional unsolderer/solderer (i began my silicon valley career as what was often referred to back then as a 'rework girl' ) Darrel's advice was spot on.

you will do fine.

Thank you Dennis! I use to watch my dad solder. I remember the process. It all came back to me when I watched the video that Darrel so thoughtfully posted.

Wish it was as easy as using my hot glue gun! LOL!

I will let everyone know if I get it right!

 

[Un5tab1e]

Hey Karen! When u get done with that I got a few electronics laying around I'll send u to rework

Sent from my HTC6500LVW using Tapatalk

 

[Ian444]

Hi Karen, here's a few pointers, hope they are of some help.

When removing the old battery spring -

Wear glasses for eye protection.

Give the iron at least 6 minutes to heat up (and because its brand new, try to melt some solder onto the tip after a couple of minutes or so to protect the new tip from oxidisation.)

Before touching the iron to the solder joint to remove the battery spring, wipe the tip clean on an old wet rag and then tin it with solder, the tip should look like chrome with the fresh solder on it. If you have waited 20 seconds since you last tinned the tip, the solder on the tip will go gray, and you will need to re-tin it again. Having a clean tip with fresh solder is a necessity, don't worry about "wasting" solder during tinning, it is cheap enough, and it has to be done or the solder job will not be good.

It should only take around 5 seconds or maybe a few more of the soldering iron tip touching the solder on the old spring to fully melt the solder in order to remove the old spring.

To fit the new battery spring -

Place the new spring in position and tape it down with masking tape so it can't move.

Clean and tin the tip of the iron, hold it at an angle and place it so that you get maximum contact area between the soldering tip, the spring plate and the switch terminal and apply solder at the same time, use enough solder to see it bond the switch terminal to the spring plate; the instant you see that bonding thing happen remove the iron from the work and let it cool. If you leave the iron in there too long, the solder will go grey and the joint will be degraded. It should take around 5 seconds to do the actual soldering together part. If its good, it will look shiny.

If the solder is dull and grey, remove the spring base, tin the iron and drag the excess solder from it, and have another go at refitting it. The biggest danger is taking too long to get the solder to flow, which could overheat the switch terminal and destroy the switch. Then you will have to order a new switch and solder that in as well. But I'm sure you'll be fine. After soldering in one new battery spring, the second one will be much much easier (on the other Woodvil). You can use isopropyl alcohol and a Q-tip to remove the flux left from the soldering process, or nail polish remover.

 

[patrao_n]

Also to add it's a good idea to tin the tip after completing as well. Then turn off your iron. It will help preserve the tip for many spring replacements

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

 

[Ian444]

Yep, thanks patrao, I didn't mention that

 

[nerak]

Hi Karen, here's a few pointers, hope they are of some help.

When removing the old battery spring -

Wear glasses for eye protection.

Give the iron at least 6 minutes to heat up (and because its brand new, try to melt some solder onto the tip after a couple of minutes or so to protect the new tip from oxidisation.)

Before touching the iron to the solder joint to remove the battery spring, wipe the tip clean on an old wet rag and then tin it with solder, the tip should look like chrome with the fresh solder on it. If you have waited 20 seconds since you last tinned the tip, the solder on the tip will go gray, and you will need to re-tin it again. Having a clean tip with fresh solder is a necessity, don't worry about "wasting" solder during tinning, it is cheap enough, and it has to be done or the solder job will not be good.

It should only take around 5 seconds or maybe a few more of the soldering iron tip touching the solder on the old spring to fully melt the solder in order to remove the old spring.

To fit the new battery spring -

Place the new spring in position and tape it down with masking tape so it can't move.

Clean and tin the tip of the iron, hold it at an angle and place it so that you get maximum contact area between the soldering tip, the spring plate and the switch terminal and apply solder at the same time, use enough solder to see it bond the switch terminal to the spring plate; the instant you see that bonding thing happen remove the iron from the work and let it cool. If you leave the iron in there too long, the solder will go grey and the joint will be degraded. It should take around 5 seconds to do the actual soldering together part. If its good, it will look shiny.

If the solder is dull and grey, remove the spring base, tin the iron and drag the excess solder from it, and have another go at refitting it. The biggest danger is taking too long to get the solder to flow, which could overheat the switch terminal and destroy the switch. Then you will have to order a new switch and solder that in as well. But I'm sure you'll be fine. After soldering in one new battery spring, the second one will be much much easier (on the other Woodvil). You can use isopropyl alcohol and a Q-tip to remove the flux left from the soldering process, or nail polish remover.

Thank YOU! I will use this for reference when I am ready.

One question. I am getting a little tube of solder wire. It didn't say what kind of solder. I know there are different kinds. Is it imperative that I buy a special kind for electronics? If it isn't marked would it be o.k. to use?

Do I need to buy flux?

 

[Ian444]

It is more than likely that what comes in the tube is standard 60/40 flux-cored solder, which is exactly what you want, but I can't be sure that's what you'll get, since I live in a different country. 60/40 means 60% tin and 40% lead.

Don't use lead-free solder because it is difficult to work with and has poor reliability for hobby solderers like you and me. Lead-free soldering needs mass-production computer-controlled equipment to be done well.

I don't know how you can tell what type of solder you'll get, maybe you can email them and ask if its 60/40 flux-cored solder, or maybe a Reonaut around here will know.

I think the flux inside the flux-cored solder should be sufficient, but since Rob mentioned using some flux (as in liquid flux applied from a small bottle) this suggests to me that maybe the solder does not readily take to the spring base plate. If this is the case, you can scratch up the surface on the spring base plate preferably with scotchbrite, or a small screwdriver in a pinch, to help the solder to bond to it. Then clean it before soldering.

If you have any more questions, just keep asking.