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Sounds fairly normally to me, I rotate a Unity and 2 Kylin M RTA's + 2 Profiles and they tend to last 2-3 weeks and the sticky juice does cake a bit. I burn off the gunk and wash with a light brush and rewick, after 2-3 cleans I generally replace the mesh. I recently bought some cheap mesh coil strips from China ...branded BMTD 316SS mesh, they ohmed out at 0.09 ohms, in others words they are junk....be careful.
I have had my Unity for about a month so I will have to wait and see. I figure it would be about 3-4 months before I change out that mesh.
Didn't take any new pictures mate, like I said I built it exactly the same! Not exaggerating here, I literally measured it to the millimiter, and I still managed to get a completely different result!!!.....
So just look at the last pictures I uploaded and pretend they are new cause that's exactly what I did.
All those other factors(power, draw duration, etc.) I've already mentioned before, take a look and if I missed anything let me know and I'll gladly add it.
I'm using the Vaperesso Luxe mod, omni chip 4.0(I think).
I can lock and unlock the resistence, though I have no idea how to set it, it just detects it automatically first as 0.18 and second time(what second time?! well you guessed it, had to rebuild it again cause I had the freaking audacity to take a couple of puffs in wattage more while waiting for your response and it burned again!!
) as 0.20. The mesh is supposed to be 0.15.Then I can adjust the TCR, no idea what that is or what to set it at, goes from 50 all the way up to 250.
Then I can adjust the power(W), then it says "Long mode" under those 2, no idea what that means and it doesn't look like I can select it to change it.
And last but not least, once all the above is done, at the main screen I can adjust the degrees eighter in fahrenheit or celcius.
Think that's all but I'll double check to see if I missed anything.
LE: Oh yeah, I also have custom curves option for both VW and TC, but no way I'm touching that when I can't even get the basics right, just help me set TC mode properly please.
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Didn't take any new pictures mate, like I said I built it exactly the same! Not exaggerating here, I literally measured it to the millimiter, and I still managed to get a completely different result!!!.....
So just look at the last pictures I uploaded and pretend they are new cause that's exactly what I did.
All those other factors(power, draw duration, etc.) I've already mentioned before, take a look and if I missed anything let me know and I'll gladly add it.
I'm using the Vaperesso Luxe mod, omni chip 4.0(I think).
I can lock and unlock the resistence, though I have no idea how to set it, it just detects it automatically first as 0.18 and second time(what second time?! well you guessed it, had to rebuild it again cause I had the freaking audacity to take a couple of puffs in wattage more while waiting for your response and it burned again!!
Then I can adjust the TCR, no idea what that is or what to set it at, goes from 50 all the way up to 250.
Then I can adjust the power(W), then it says "Long mode" under those 2, no idea what that means and it doesn't look like I can select it to change it.
And last but not least, once all the above is done, at the main screen I can adjust the degrees eighter in fahrenheit or celcius.
Think that's all but I'll double check to see if I missed anything.
LE: Oh yeah, I also have custom curves option for both VW and TC, but no way I'm touching that when I can't even get the basics right, just help me set TC mode properly please.
What mesh are you using? OFRF Kanthal mesh is rated for 0.13 ohms and can’t be used in Temp Control. The newer OFRF SS316L mesh is rated for 0.15 ohms – has a different hole perforation than the Kanthal. Your earlier pictures are the Kanthal mesh.
Your earlier pictures shows the wicking before use. I would like to see pictures after use, when you claim the flavour drops an you experience dry burns.
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Like I said on my original order of ofrf I ordered 1 pack of kanthal and 1 pack of SS mesh. They messed up the order and sent me the kanthal mesh and 2 ss coils for some kinda tank.
So I've been using the kanthal ones while waiting for the SS mesh to arrive, and today it finally did. That's why I'm asking for TC help now as I finally have the right mesh.
Fine, I don't see how it will help, but if it's really that important to you I'll upload some more after use pics as soon as the new build burns out, shouldn't be too long, most don't last a full day.
So I've been using the kanthal ones while waiting for the SS mesh to arrive, and today it finally did. That's why I'm asking for TC help now as I finally have the right mesh.
Fine, I don't see how it will help, but if it's really that important to you I'll upload some more after use pics as soon as the new build burns out, shouldn't be too long, most don't last a full day.
Gotcha – I’ve never used the OFRF SS mesh so difficult to advise. So the 0.2 ohms is with the SS316 mesh?
I am going to assume you do not know how Temp Control works. Quick explanation is….as metal heats up, its resistance increases by a specified amount relative to that particular metal. This is called Temperature Coefficient of Resistance (TCR). Each metal has its own TCR rating and with that rating, your device can monitor the increase in resistance, and calculate a predicted coil temperature. If the coil is trying to increase in resistance by too much, such as when your wicks are drying out, the device will scale back the power to maintain your prescribed coil temperature.
Stainless Steel 316L has a TCR value of 0.00088 – or a simple 88 as per Vaporesso. This is the value you’ll want to use. The OFRF SS mesh claims 180°C to 300°C (300°C is ridiculously high, I would not go over 230°C max). I would start at around 180°C and increase by small increments until you receive a satisfying hit. OFRF also recommends 65 to 75 watts – I’d just use 60 to 65 watts.
Build the Unity as per normal, wet the wick and fill the tank. While the mesh is at room temperature, screw it onto the device allowing it to read its resistance. DO NOT FIRE THE DEVICE. Enter the SS setting of your Luxe. Adjust the TCR value to 88 and set the power to 60 to 65 watts. Then adjust the temperature to your liking. Vape till an empty tank, as your wicks begin to dry out, the device should scale back the power.
Cool, thanks. I'll take the tank of the device and allow it to reach room temp(as I've been using it in VW) while I charge the mod, then gonna try it with the settings you recommended.
Wish me luck.................................
Wish me luck.................................
Luck…LOL! I should elaborate – this is not guaranteed, there are variances and deficiencies that could hinder performance. If it is not working as per your liking, post your results.
YEEEEESSSS!!!!!!!!! FINALLLLLLLYYYYYY!!!!!!!
Now this may be a bit(or a lot to be honest) premature, I still have to go through a couple of wicks, couple of juices, maybe even a couple of mesh pieces before I can trully state things with any certainty, but....!!!
But what I can say is that the initial experience is very promising, because the same setup(wick, mesh strip), heck even the same tank of juice where just a couple of minutes ago I was getting a slight sensation of burning here and there, after I put it in TC with the settings your recommended @Punk In Drublic and now 50 puffs(or so) in and not a wiff of a dry hit!!! And the flavor seems on par(still playing around with the temp) with what I was getting in wattage mode.
Man I REALLY hope this lasts cause you can't even begin to imagine how maddening it was watching all of the videos and listening to all of you "Oh if you just build it this way and trim this and fluff that(and stick this up your...), etc. it will work perfectly." and then I go and do exactly what you tell/show me AND IT DOES NOT FREAKING WORK FOR ME!!!! WHY?!?!?!?!?!?!??!?!?
So I dunno, maybe it's something with the way I vape+kanthal+wattage mode that just doesn't mash.
Do I really vape that weirdly, am I a martian...?
Until(hopefully not for a while) I have to rebuild it I guess just one question remains, can I still clean the SS mesh to reuse it? Cause I read somewhere that you shouldn't heat up/glow SS, so how do I get the crusties off...?
Now this may be a bit(or a lot to be honest) premature, I still have to go through a couple of wicks, couple of juices, maybe even a couple of mesh pieces before I can trully state things with any certainty, but....!!!
But what I can say is that the initial experience is very promising, because the same setup(wick, mesh strip), heck even the same tank of juice where just a couple of minutes ago I was getting a slight sensation of burning here and there, after I put it in TC with the settings your recommended @Punk In Drublic and now 50 puffs(or so) in and not a wiff of a dry hit!!! And the flavor seems on par(still playing around with the temp) with what I was getting in wattage mode.
Man I REALLY hope this lasts cause you can't even begin to imagine how maddening it was watching all of the videos and listening to all of you "Oh if you just build it this way and trim this and fluff that(and stick this up your...), etc. it will work perfectly." and then I go and do exactly what you tell/show me AND IT DOES NOT FREAKING WORK FOR ME!!!! WHY?!?!?!?!?!?!??!?!?
So I dunno, maybe it's something with the way I vape+kanthal+wattage mode that just doesn't mash.
Do I really vape that weirdly, am I a martian...?
Until(hopefully not for a while) I have to rebuild it I guess just one question remains, can I still clean the SS mesh to reuse it? Cause I read somewhere that you shouldn't heat up/glow SS, so how do I get the crusties off...?
YEEEEESSSS!!!!!!!!! FINALLLLLLLYYYYYY!!!!!!!
Now this may be a bit(or a lot to be honest) premature, I still have to go through a couple of wicks, couple of juices, maybe even a couple of mesh pieces before I can trully state things with any certainty, but....!!!
But what I can say is that the initial experience is very promising, because the same setup(wick, mesh strip), heck even the same tank of juice where just a couple of minutes ago I was getting a slight sensation of burning here and there, after I put it in TC with the settings your recommended @Punk In Drublic and now 50 puffs(or so) in and not a wiff of a dry hit!!! And the flavor seems on par(still playing around with the temp) with what I was getting in wattage mode.
Man I REALLY hope this lasts cause you can't even begin to imagine how maddening it was watching all of the videos and listening to all of you "Oh if you just build it this way and trim this and fluff that(and stick this up your...), etc. it will work perfectly." and then I go and do exactly what you tell/show me AND IT DOES NOT FREAKING WORK FOR ME!!!! WHY?!?!?!?!?!?!??!?!?
So I dunno, maybe it's something with the way I vape+kanthal+wattage mode that just doesn't mash.
Do I really vape that weirdly, am I a martian...?
Until(hopefully not for a while) I have to rebuild it I guess just one question remains, can I still clean the SS mesh to reuse it? Cause I read somewhere that you shouldn't heat up/glow SS, so how do I get the crusties off...?
What hit setting did you use in wattage mode? (High, normal or soft). The Omni Board 4.0 was known to give a high wattage preheat – not saying that was your issue but a possibility.
Just threw my Unity onto my Vaporesso Polar (which use Omni 4.0) set at the same 60 watts I usually use with my DNA devices. 10+ consecutive chain vapes and so far no dry hits. BUT…. Inconsistencies with board performance could be a factor. Just saying. But you do have to consider the many users within this forum that are not experiencing the same problems as you. There has to be a reason for this.
You should not glow mesh to red hot, no matter the type of metal. It is very thin and could break. Low wattage with a light glow (dark red) is sufficient. And when doing so, take your time to remove all hot spots. You will see these as glowing longer then the rest of the mesh.
AND…. I would not consider you a Martian. They generally have a higher intelligence
Only joking dude…glad to hear you are making progress.Normal preheat in wattage mode. How do you know martians are smart?! Maybe we are dumb too and destroyed our planet just like you humanoids are doing atm and that's why it looks like it does now! Ha, take that!
P.S. This is probably a stupid question with a very obvious answer, but I assume when I heat the SS mesh to clean it I have to do that under wattage mode as TC would prevent me from firing it without any wick/juice, right?
P.S. This is probably a stupid question with a very obvious answer, but I assume when I heat the SS mesh to clean it I have to do that under wattage mode as TC would prevent me from firing it without any wick/juice, right?
Very good question. Despite my comment was in jest, it is entirely possible an alien race has depleted its own world’s resourses, thus destroying its environment, and therefore looking for a new planet to habitat as depicted in Hollywood films (cause Hollywood is always fact). BUT…. Despite this ignorance, the ability to traverse from one galactic system to another does display a higher level of intelligence in comparison to our human race which has yet to even explore physically beyond our terrestrial moon. So even if alien on earth under the disguise of a human, which also requires a form of intelligence beyond our human capabilities, cannot figure out how to work a vape device, the fact they were even able to get to this planet is well beyond human intelligence.
And yes, cleaning should be performed in wattage mode for TC would prevent the coil from heating beyond your prescribed temperature.
Cool, well, thanks for all the help, again. I guess now we wait...
I'll keep you posted with how things go.
I'll keep you posted with how things go.
I love it! Been following this (long) thread and feeling a bit zoned out and then read this and almost fell off my chair... thanks, I needed that.
I have tried getting the wicking right...settled on the Vic method using cotton and no matter what I've tried the tank will almost always drops a mil or so when filling, ports closed, and the air slot leaks for a short time then stops. I could live with this except the other day I put the mod with the Unity in my pocket, ugh it leaks badly when horizontal. I guess this will be my favorite vertical RTA while the Kyln M is my best all around RTA.
The Unity does increase internal pressure once filled and the cap screwed on. To mitigate this, fill, press down on the cap to create a seal then flip the RTA upside down and screw the cap on while keeping the airflow open. This relieves the pressure and no leaks.
As for wicking, I use 3/4 of a muji pad, harder outer layer removed, which is roughly 3x that of a single 3mm coil if using different cotton. Cut flush against the wick guard, no thinning but do fluff to remove any compression from the cut. I fill the juice chamber with cotton from the bottom layer of the wick, allowing enough room for your tweezers or small screwdriver to enter freely. The rest of the cotton is left as is, maybe a little trimming if my initial cut was messy (need new scissors). This allows for the wick ends to be gently compressed against the side of the inner chamber, where the second juice flow is. If the wicks are too thin in this area, the deck will flood…if too thick, and packed in, then there is the potential for dry hits if chain vaping.
I receive no dry hits with this method. And depending on juice, get a month+ worth of use. Current juice is a tobacco flavour with chocolate and coffee. Wouldn't call it sweet, with a coil setup I can get approx 100 to 120 ml before the need to rewick. I've gone through about 100 ml on the Unity and she's still going strong.
As for wicking, I use 3/4 of a muji pad, harder outer layer removed, which is roughly 3x that of a single 3mm coil if using different cotton. Cut flush against the wick guard, no thinning but do fluff to remove any compression from the cut. I fill the juice chamber with cotton from the bottom layer of the wick, allowing enough room for your tweezers or small screwdriver to enter freely. The rest of the cotton is left as is, maybe a little trimming if my initial cut was messy (need new scissors). This allows for the wick ends to be gently compressed against the side of the inner chamber, where the second juice flow is. If the wicks are too thin in this area, the deck will flood…if too thick, and packed in, then there is the potential for dry hits if chain vaping.
I receive no dry hits with this method. And depending on juice, get a month+ worth of use. Current juice is a tobacco flavour with chocolate and coffee. Wouldn't call it sweet, with a coil setup I can get approx 100 to 120 ml before the need to rewick. I've gone through about 100 ml on the Unity and she's still going strong.
Thanks for the help, but this is pretty much the same method Vaping Vic used and is probably the best method I've seen. Frustration for sure, thing is why fight what appears to be a design problem most likely a result of the added juice port, maybe blocking this would help?
Did you find a problem with laying the Unity horizontal?
Did you find a problem with laying the Unity horizontal?
Own 2 Unities, I do not travel with them, but they do get laid on their side from time to time. No leaking. Even if miss rambunctious kitty feels the need to knock them over and or off the table. As cats do!
Guess my method is similar to Vic’s – I adopted it out of laziness (didn’t want to cut on an angle as per the instructions) and before I saw Vic’s video on the Unity.
Pressure change in tanks is common, obviously top air prevents leaks given the design. But TBH, I do not find the Unity to be difficult. If I do not flip it when screwing on the cap I have received leaks – but do not find the flip practice to be that bothering.
I think any design can be improved upon, and the Unity is no exception. Haven’t tried the Kyln, but so far haven’t been a fan of top air RTA’s…grant it my exposure is limited. When the Unity is working for you, how does it compare to the Kyln? Air flow, flavour etc…
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