Wre Glue Review - No More Soldering??

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Mark Linehan

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Just about anyone who solders frequently these days has heard a bit about this new product called Wire Glue. It is purported to be an inexpensive version of silvered epoxy or other conductive adhesives that utilize epoxy resin type technologies combined with various types and amounts of precious metals and other conductive materials.

Wire Glue sounds fantastic. It is very inexpensive at a few dollars for a small .3oz jar. It is advertised as being a replacement for soldering, and to those of us who do not know how to solder properly or (like me) are very rusty at it and just dislike the whole process, this sounded terrific. Well.. The best way I can describe how well Wire Glue works is to say, keep practicing your soldering. Get really good at it. It actually is not that difficult. The problem most people have (like me currently) is not having the right equipment.

Wire Glue definitely has its advantages to be sure. I think everyone should have some on hand because I will list a few uses where this stuff would indeed be great. Generally speaking though, this product is never going to replace soldering in its current form.

I tried using it on one of my attempts at making a homemade atomizer/cartomizer crossover mutant. This is a design I have been working on for a couple of months now, and so far I have nothing good to report, but that is because of my soldering skills being sooooo rusty and I have had crap irons, crap tips and no flux. Ever try working with nichrome wire without flux, it is not fun. If ever you wanted clean flat solder connections, this is the time.

I thought wire glue would be excellent because it does not require heat, and you do not have to worry about melting anything or globbing up your solder. Well, I would be better off with solder by far on this project. So let me tell you the truth about Wire Glue. Too many people are either tooting the horns of Wire Glue (salesmen and manufacturers) or completely vilifying it as evil incarnate. It actually lies somewhere in the middle of all that.

What is good about Wire Glue

* You do not need any heat to apply wire glue, so no melted insulation, components, pcb, etc
* It can be used to repair broken tracings on a PCB easily
* It can be used to add VERY TINY amounts of resistance to a connection
* It can be used on heat sensitive surface mount components
* It uses microcarbon (bucky balls) technology which is really cool stuff
* It is easy to clean off
* It is lead free
* It is safer than soldering

What is bad about Wire Glue

* It has NO stickiness and goes on as THIN as water wanting to run everywhere
* It takes several long minutes of holding parts/wires together before drying enough to let go
* It takes 8-12 hours before being completely dry and bonded
* It adds resistance to a connection (albeit in VERY TINY amounts)
* I can not find the precise resistance spec's for this stuff
* I can not find current tolerances for thi stuff
* It dries to a consistency of charcoal and needs to be coated with superglue or epoxy to make it a truly strong bond

So it has pluses and minuses. It is not a complete failure like some claim though. It definitely has uses and I will be using it, but I will not be putting away my soldering iron by any stretch of the imagination. I do suggest buying some. Go to Amazon or Think Geek and you will find it.

If you want something that does what Wire Glue is supposed to do, which is act like solder, be sticky like glue and dry to a solid bond, then look around for conductive epoxy. These will basically be actual resin type glues that contain particles of silver, gold or even platinum. They are very expensive, but if you have lots of money to throw around and hate soldering, go for it.

I would give a review of these Conductive epoxy types, but I can not afford to buy them to try them, so you are on your own with those.

Feel free to use this thread to show us any uses you have found for Wire Glue. I am very interested in successes using this product, because so many people who are not profiting from it just outright decry this stuff as a completely useless waste of money. I disagree and think it is not what thay make it sound like, but it has its uses and is not as bad as all that.

The worst part is that it is like water and difficult to apply properly. It doesn't take THAT long to dry but it seems like a long time when you are holding parts together, and because it is not sticky at all, the pieces are really easy to move if you are using your hands like me. I still have not gotten myself some helping hands/mini-vices. Once you have some applied and dry enough to let go, then I would recommend applying a second coat to assure good conductive connection, before putting on superglue or epoxy.

So you know.. The manufacturer actually recommends coating with superglue to strengthen the bond, so that should tell you something right there.

Hope this helps someone!
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Mark Linehan:toast:
 

Mark Linehan

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Well, don't be too disheartened. If you are using one of those small pcb's to build your mod, you could attach wires and components into the holes using this stuff and then reinforce with superglue or preferably epoxy for fumes sake. If you twist your wires together and are very careful painting this stuff on, it will indeed hold the wires, then reinforce with glue. You see, this stuff does what it says it does. The problem is the viscosity of water. Plus, you would still need to solder the wire onto the center post of the atty connector because I can't even imagine trying to use this stuff for that. Although even that, with a small vice to hold the wire in place against the atty post, and again, then reinforce.

I think it would take a hundred times longer using this wire glue, but technically, you could in fact make a mod with it. The question is, do you take all that time to build the mod, or do you invest some time in learning to solder. I promise you, that soldering is not as difficult as you might think. There are plenty of tutorials on it here and all over the internet. If you have a good iron with a REAL GOOD TIP, as was pointed out to me today by WillyB and you have the accessories like flux, braided wire, some clip on heat sinks, good rosin core solder preferably non-lead 60/40 and a nice thin gauge. It is not that difficult.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modders-forum/22152-share-your-soldering-tips-here.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modders-forum/22122-how-solder-video.html

Mark Linehan
 

Drozd

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I've used a bit of it to repair something else...
I had better luck painting it on both parts and waiting half the cure time to stick the parts together..
or twisting the wires together and then using it...long enough to hold
and then applying heat shrink tubing (applied to the wire beforehand) ...

but then again I use a totally different product afterward (a 2 part clear acrylic epoxy resin) and essentially seal connector, button, wires, and led in a solid block of acrylic... lol... so there's absolutely no movement of any of the parts possible once dried...

I'm playing around with casting the resin product and soon should have pictures of a mod built entirely with it (outside of the regular electrical parts)...that then gets flooded with the same stuff after all the electricals are connected...so we'll see how that goes....the next step would then be to see if it'd be possible to connect all the electronics in the mold and cast the entire damn thing around the wires and everything (except the void for the battery)
 
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Brad524

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Drozd

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Unfortunately solder paste's temp range maxes out at 85F, hence using it for an atty connector might not last too long. Here's a link to the major retailer of it Solder Paste, Lead Free Solder Paste, Water Soluble Solder Paste, No Clean Solder Paste

that was my thinking with this other product...something like solder paste or wire glue would hold it temporarily... then when the connection is flooded and surrounded by this stuff that's non conductive and extremely heat and alcohol resistant...it'd work like wire insulation and hold the connection tight whether or not the solder paste degrades or not...
 

nofalls

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Say folks what about solder paste?Will it be easier to hold parts,wires in place till dryed?Any one ever use this paste?Is it thicker ie easier to control than runny glue?

The only place I hace seen solder paste used is in SMT - surface mount tech parts in a reflow oven.
 
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grantemsley

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Soldering is not hard. The reason most people I've seen have trouble soldering is they have a crappy radio shack soldering iron.

On ebay you can get a decent soldering iron for about $40-70. Look for "936 esd" without the quotes on ebay. These soldering stations are Hakko 936 or knockoffs of them. The knockoffs work just fine.

The reason these work so much better is that the tip actually heats evenly and stays the same temperature. Cheap soldering irons usually have just one spot that really gets hot. And they keep getting hotter when you aren't using them (until they get too hot) and lose all their heat as soon as you start using them (because the metal of whatever you are soldering act like a heatsink). These ones are regulated to keep the same temperature all the time. The other problem is using too small of a tip. I like the chisel shaped tips because it allows you to heat a slightly larger area. These irons have a large selection of tips. Don't use the tiny ones unless you are doing surface mount stuff.

The difference between this and my crappy iron was like night and day. I thought I couldn't solder worth a damn, then I got this and it got easy. Proper tools really do make all the difference.
 

Mark Linehan

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The difference between this and my crappy iron was like night and day. I thought I couldn't solder worth a damn, then I got this and it got easy. Proper tools really do make all the difference.

I could not agree more with you there. I was out of soldering practice for several decades and I thought I was just beyond rusty and having a hell of a time. I invested in an iron with a nice tip, and now soldering is just as easy as I remember it being once I learned how. For a while I thought I was just too out of practice. The tip on the iron from MadVapes I paid only $10 for is pretty nice. Not the BEST tip in the world, but it is even, heats fast, holds the temp and you are correct. The right tip is the key to everything for soldering.
 

cskalash

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Seriously soldering it's not hard. And onde you get into it you'll love it. I've learn how to solder in youtube watching this guys videos: YouTube - SolderingGeek's Channel
Once i watched them all i just grab a pcb and start making some connections. The truly secret is warm the piece you want to solder to, not really the solder. You can touch the solder with the iron too, but mainly you want to eat up the pieces where you want to solder attach. Just watch the videos, you'll learn i lot, i did. Off course a good soldering iron and a thin solder makes all the difference
 

grantemsley

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Here's how I learnt to solder:

Don't try to make anything for your first try. Get a PCB and a bunch of random parts, and just randomly solder stuff in. That way it doesn't matter if you mess up, and you won't worry about damaging anything. Or try to make something simple, like a resistor and LED together. Don't use any fancy or expensive parts, just stuff you could throw away. That eliminates the fear of breaking stuff, because you don't care if it works or not. For me, I was afraid to heat things up for as long as you have to, and never could get anything to solder properly.

Put the part in the hole, and touch the iron to it so it is touching both the leg of the part and the board at the same time. You need to heat both of them. Make sure your soldering iron has a thin coating of solder on it. This makes sure it has a good connection to the parts you are heating, like thermal paste on a computer heatsink.

Touch the solder up to the connection on the opposite side of where the iron is. You don't want the iron to melt the solder. You want the leg and copper on the PCB to be hot enough to melt it. Once the solder fills in the hole, remove the solder, then the iron.

Give it a second to cool off, and it should be nice and shiny. If it is a dull looking color, you didn't heat the parts up enough, or there is some dirt on them that needs to be scrubbed off first.
 
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