xvostick clone any owners?
- Thread starter SLvapor
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
The board I used in Xvo clone was in another mod, which originally had a YiHi SX300m these were exact clones of a evolv DNA30. So I had to remove the dna40 in that and reinstall the original YiHi board then install the dna40 in the Xvo clone!
It was a Lost Vape Tan V2
Vape on!
Last edited:
Quick remark about the older 3fvape clone vs the newer one:
They are about the same (except for display color), but the second has a much greater issue with the "new coil" messages.....it appears about every half hour out of nowhere...very annoying, the first one I got doesn't do that.
I notice no difference in finish etc., still problematic to lock the power setting (doesn't respond to it very often)...so the same issues still excist in the newer one, and they added one more....I will only use it when out of the country, so no biggie for me....but thank god the orginal doesn't show this behavior
They are about the same (except for display color), but the second has a much greater issue with the "new coil" messages.....it appears about every half hour out of nowhere...very annoying, the first one I got doesn't do that.
I notice no difference in finish etc., still problematic to lock the power setting (doesn't respond to it very often)...so the same issues still excist in the newer one, and they added one more....I will only use it when out of the country, so no biggie for me....but thank god the orginal doesn't show this behavior
The second one giving you the errors would be a good test of my theory that its a grounding issue. If you can... remove the set screw in 510 plate and screw the 510 plate up and down 20 times or so in effort to improve the ground there. Also check the ground screw under bottom plate. Since I messed around with ground I rarely ever get that error message. When I do get that message and just reset it comes back quick but if I remove the atty and wipe out the connection it is good till battery gets low.
Just some notes on the evolv upgraded 3fvape clone I did over the weekend.
The 3f clone is exactly the same as the Focalecig GB clone I received. Including the lousy clone board
I rewired the board using 18AWG for the battery and atty connections, added a small delrin washer in the positive connection to raise it up this fixed the issue with the battery cap sitting flush when tighten down. Fixed button rattle, replaced the USB charge board with a 1A board that has a blue LED when charging
I made sure the 2 chassis bolts were clean as one is used for the GND
The evolv board I used had the mounting rails removed so I wrapped the board with Kapton tape and used anti static foam to pack the board inside the chassis.
The chassis is fully anodised other than the slight colour and finish difference between the top and bottom I cannot fault it.
I have no issues with any of the buttons they work perfectly as per any other evolv 40 (version dependant)
The 510 looks to be a Varitube clone but it's lo lo profile but less height 2mm landing pad and works out at 8.5mm in height it's SS of some kind (304?) I had a problem with the metal ring which was cross threaded and ended up using a brass one from a Varitube the threading exactly matched. The spring tension for the 510 pin seems good, I did polish the 510 pin it appears to be made of brass.
I tested the resistance accuracy with about 10 atties compared with one of my reference DNA200 FDV Lo pro V4 510s nearly all were the same taking into account the static resistance on some of the atties.
I need to test the voltage drop but the vape feels spot on.
I really wanted a white screen in the evolv but these are getting hard to get hold these days.
All in all one of the best clones I have retrofitted!
Vape on!
The 3f clone is exactly the same as the Focalecig GB clone I received. Including the lousy clone board
I rewired the board using 18AWG for the battery and atty connections, added a small delrin washer in the positive connection to raise it up this fixed the issue with the battery cap sitting flush when tighten down. Fixed button rattle, replaced the USB charge board with a 1A board that has a blue LED when charging
I made sure the 2 chassis bolts were clean as one is used for the GND
The evolv board I used had the mounting rails removed so I wrapped the board with Kapton tape and used anti static foam to pack the board inside the chassis.
The chassis is fully anodised other than the slight colour and finish difference between the top and bottom I cannot fault it.
I have no issues with any of the buttons they work perfectly as per any other evolv 40 (version dependant)
The 510 looks to be a Varitube clone but it's lo lo profile but less height 2mm landing pad and works out at 8.5mm in height it's SS of some kind (304?) I had a problem with the metal ring which was cross threaded and ended up using a brass one from a Varitube the threading exactly matched. The spring tension for the 510 pin seems good, I did polish the 510 pin it appears to be made of brass.
I tested the resistance accuracy with about 10 atties compared with one of my reference DNA200 FDV Lo pro V4 510s nearly all were the same taking into account the static resistance on some of the atties.
I need to test the voltage drop but the vape feels spot on.
I really wanted a white screen in the evolv but these are getting hard to get hold these days.
All in all one of the best clones I have retrofitted!
Vape on!
Last edited:
Hi ZeroΏ, would be nice to describe your improvement with rattle buttons. Thanks man!Just some notes on the evolv upgraded 3fvape clone over the weekend..... Fixed button rattle
Vape on!
Wow, you have modding skills, ZeroOhm! The manufacturer should hire you to do final QC check. I ordered three from FC last week but they still are "collecting". Hope they all work without any adjustments.Just some notes on the evolv upgraded 3fvape clone I did over the weekend.
The 3f clone is exactly the same as the Focalecig GB clone I received. Including the lousy clone board
I rewired the board using 18AWG for the battery and atty connections, added a small delrin washer in the positive connection to raise it up this fixed the issue with the battery cap sitting flush when tighten down. Fixed button rattle, replaced the USB charge board with a 1A board that has a blue LED when charging
I made sure the 2 chassis bolts were clean as one is used for the GND
The evolv board I used had the mounting rails removed so I wrapped the board with Kapton tape and used anti static foam to pack the board inside the chassis.
The chassis is fully anodised other than the slight colour and finish difference between the top and bottom I cannot fault it.
I have no issues with any of the buttons they work perfectly as per any other evolv 40 (version dependant)
The 510 looks to be a Varitube clone but it's lo lo profile but less height 2mm landing pad and works out at 8.5mm in height it's SS of some kind (304?) I had a problem with the metal ring which was cross threaded and ended up using a brass one from a Varitube the threading exactly matched. The spring tension for the 510 pin seems good, I did polish the 510 pin it appears to be made of brass.
I tested the resistance accuracy with about 10 atties compared with one of my reference DNA200 FDV Lo pro V4 510s nearly all were the same taking into account the static resistance on some of the atties.
I need to test the voltage drop but the vape feels spot on.
I really wanted a white screen in the evolv but these are getting hard to get hold these days.
All in all one of the best clones I have retrofitted!
Vape on!
I used some neoprene sheet 0.8-1mm on each of the switches, I have used some double sided tape previously with some success it really is dependant on the gap between the steel plungers and the tactile switches.
I confess I have had a few mods in my time and seen and handled alot more! Vaping as a hobby modding & mod building are the part I enjoy the most
Out the box there a good clone the only real snags are the clone DNAs and there idiosyncrasies! I hope they are good for you!
Vape on!
I used a factory Ni200 coil in my Sub Tank Mini with no problems. Sorry can't help with SS.
Yes sadly the evolv DNA40 doesn't allow you to alter TCR I am sure they could include the feature but they won't as they want to sell DNA200s! The only DNA clone boards with the nickel purity option I have seen have been made SXK and as far as I know none of the Xvo clones have SXK DNA boards. Fasttech seem to selling a clone made by another manufacturer but early reports are they are not SXK boards.
I have 2 or 3 SXK boards but all of them read the resistance incorrectly there is lots and lots of info here on ECF on the tc-beyond-ni200-nickel-purity................ thread and in reality having to use a spreadsheet to calculate the offset is way to much hassle for me! All the SXK boards I have seen have been longer and as the Xvo clone board is exactly the same size as a genuine, I am not even sure one will fit into the clone?
I may look into this as I only vape TC but do not vape NI200 at all!
but there are a number of considerations I need a SXK board that works correctly (accurate resistance etc) the only way I know to get one is to buy a mod remove the board and fit it in the Xvo clone if it will fit!It would be great if other modders would explorer the possibilities as has been done with the Vaporflask clones, its all a little somewhat of a lucky dip and rolling the dice! .... you could end up buying multiple clones just to get a decent SXK board right now I am not sure if I can justify the hassle and expense!
just to add. as nice as adjustable tcr would be in a dna40, there are a couple of tc wires that work with some temp offset. ti works great, nife48(52) works great, and ss430 could work at 200f (around 460f in real temp in ni mode). so there are a few tc options outside of ni200.
i do hope evolv comes out with a dna40 size chip with the bells and whistles of the dna200. would be so nice to have that small for factor of a single 18650 mod for all of us who dont ever need anything close to 200watts.
i do hope evolv comes out with a dna40 size chip with the bells and whistles of the dna200. would be so nice to have that small for factor of a single 18650 mod for all of us who dont ever need anything close to 200watts.
This (slight color differences) was an issue with the authentic ones too, other than the black ones. Therefore it alone shouldn't be an influencing factor in anyone's authi/clone decision. Not that I expect it would be, but I thought it might be worth point out, just in case...
receive mine today, it works only for a few seconds actually i fired only two times then it writes too hod and smoke come out from the usb, it smells burn from the board, now it doesnt recognise any atomizer its say check atomizer, the board its a crap of ...., thank God i will install the real dna board. i bought it from ''focalecig'' so if you do not have skills to place the board do not buy from them.
Fantastic news I have some NiFe52 and SS 430 just delivered so that is all I need to hear! I have to many Squonkers that have 40s but using these TC wires will solve my TC problem all good! Thanks for the information!
The only authentic I have tried was in black and i and couldn't see any colour difference. I had a look at the focale clone today which is black and I can see no difference between the top and bottom. Thanks for pointing this out!
Vape on!
The only authentic I have tried was in black and i and couldn't see any colour difference. I had a look at the focale clone today which is black and I can see no difference between the top and bottom. Thanks for pointing this out!
Vape on!
I'm only familiar with is because initially they discontinued the colors, citing that as the reason.
Then (ironically enough) they came out with a bunch of new blues, followed by reds, possibly as a result of the clones hitting the market (in black & blue).
- Status
