xvostick clone any owners?

[rhelton]

got a clownstick from a generous member here. not sure if they want to be mentioned. i have the dna 40 ready go. i'm replacing board because OEM board fires, but no display. i will update THIS post with pics and some tips and tricks etc. of my process for a simple transplant. gotta go to a no heat furnace call first, then i'll start dismantling when i get home.

make sure you got decent work room
take yer time
take a break halfway, if needed. watch some tv go outside, whatever.
when you have all the switch, 510 connector, and batt wires soldered throw some power to the board and make sure all the work as intended.
install board, making sure wires aren't getting snagged or pulled, this is where the patience part comes in. don't force the board in. get a little flashlight and look inside to make sure you're not hitting anything.
once the board's in connect positive 510 wire (screw on), put screws back in for batt + and batt - throw a batt in and make sure it powers up.
remember to peel off the screen protector, the red plast tab, not the black one!
hold screen in place with tip of finger, turn on, make sure it's aligned. the screen on the dna 40 has a shorter ribbon than the OEM board so this is kinda tricky. then a couple small beads of the ole hot glue will hold it in place just fine.
throw the three screen plate screws in finger tight at first, make sure it doesn't take tightening the screws to suck the screen plate down flush. if it does not sit flush w/o the screws that means means something's in the way (board, hot glue, wires) and you could crack your screen torquing down those screws. remember patience, you'll get her. i added a ground from the board to the 510 (this is not a must). here's the pics. I think they're in order?View attachment 517966 View attachment 517968 View attachment 517970 View attachment 517969 View attachment 517972 View attachment 517973 View attachment 517974 View attachment 517975 View attachment 517976 the lines in the screen are because of my cell phone camera and not the actual screen.

THE BOARDS FROM SWEET-VAPES.COM DO NOT HAVE ATTY LOCK. I WAS TOLD IN AN EMAIL FROM THEM THE BOARD THEY'RE SELLING FOR $35 HAS THIS FEATURE, BUT UPON TRYING TO LOCK MY RES, I FOUND OUT IT DOES NOT.

LOL they told me they were the latest boards too. Its ok I am not going to ..... TC is not as good as using kanthal. I have some SS on the way maybe that will be even better.

You did a great job, thank you for the pics I will use them for reference when I do mine. I will probably start on it on Monday as I have to work a few hours tomorrow.

 

[rhelton]

@AtmizrOpin: well done and congratulation! Please, can you confirm other 510-plastic insulator like in below Fasttech clownstick?!

Are you sure that is not a Peek insulator? It is the right color to be it.

 

[Jerry88]

which wire? the single one from the board to the 510. that's a sufficient gauge. the two for the battery (battery pos, chassis ground) are also sufficient. it's so short of a distance between the board and batt connections, what they're using is fine. now i did ADD an additional wire. most china dna40 "style" mods don't use the GND solder point on the board. they rely on the batt neg solder point/wire for the 510's ground, which is fine, but if you have the wire and an extra 5 min, i'd say do it.

You've answered my query. I was wondering if the clones are using the compatible wire thickness (i think i read it somewhere stated evolv recommends certain gauge/thickness wire). If reusing the existing one would work, that will be great so i dont need to get a new one.

 

[buergermeester]

Are you sure that is not a Peek insulator? It is the right color to be it.

....it`s Peek insulator; thanks for your correction !

 

[AtmizrOpin]

@AtmizrOpin: well done and congratulation! Please, can you confirm other 510-plastic insulator like in below Fasttech clownstick?!

i'm sorry, i'm having trouble understanding your question. are you asking if mine was the same setup? yes it was. i did not remove the 510 positive insulator. i just unscrewed the round metal nut from it. i do not know if my clownstick was from fasttech, i bought it second hand, but i assume they are all similar. whether they are from 3fvape, fasttech etc.

 

[AtmizrOpin]

LOL they told me they were the latest boards too. Its ok I am not going to ..... TC is not as good as using kanthal. I have some SS on the way maybe that will be even better.

You did a great job, thank you for the pics I will use them for reference when I do mine. I will probably start on it on Monday as I have to work a few hours tomorrow.

thanks. you gotta work too huh? me too. i gotta go to a service call in ashtabula oh. furnace needs a new blower motor.

 

[rhelton]

thanks. you gotta work too huh? me too. i gotta go to a service call in ashtabula oh. furnace needs a new blower motor.

Yah I dont mind. I only work part time and have days off during the regular work week. Its really all the same to me

 

[woita]

You've answered my query. I was wondering if the clones are using the compatible wire thickness (i think i read it somewhere stated evolv recommends certain gauge/thickness wire). If reusing the existing one would work, that will be great so i dont need to get a new one.

I put an old, neglected DNA25 in my focal-clone and agree that the wires to the 510 and batteries are sufficient. The wires to the charging board however are too thin imo - I still went with them since I couldn't get the board with the buttons/charger out (which I superglued before because it wasn't sitting flush).
And hey, it's only .5 Amps coming from the charger - but still, for the record, they are too thin

I thought about adding a wire for the atomizer ground return as well.
However in my first power-on test the resistance reading was perfectly accurate so I was too lazy to add it.
Has been working great for over a week now and the actual process of switching the boards took me less than 2 hours. So I can recommend that to everyone with soldering skills (mine are not too good btw )

 

[AtmizrOpin]

I put an old, neglected DNA25 in my focal-clone and agree that the wires to the 510 and batteries are sufficient. The wires to the charging board however are too thin imo - I still went with them since I couldn't get the board with the buttons/charger out (which I superglued before because it wasn't sitting flush).
And hey, it's only .5 Amps coming from the charger - but still, for the record, they are too thin

I thought about adding a wire for the atomizer ground return as well.
However in my first power-on test the resistance reading was perfectly accurate so I was too lazy to add it.
Has been working great for over a week now and the actual process of switching the boards took me less than 2 hours. So I can recommend that to everyone with soldering skills (mine are not too good btw )

to comment about the charging board inside the clownstick, mine will only pull .39-.40 amps max. garbage. should of swapped it out for a 1 amp. oh well, i'll just use an external. waiting to see how swee-vapes handles my email to them about selling me the wrong board.

 

[woita]

to comment about the charging board inside the clownstick, mine will only pull .39-.40 amps max. garbage. should of swapped it out for a 1 amp. oh well, i'll just use an external. waiting to see how swee-vapes handles my email to them about selling me the wrong board.

ah, don't have an usb-amp-meter here but always felt like charging took forever.
bummer, external charging it is :/

 

[ToolmanTexas]

FT is requestinchamp t I make a video even though I had pics of the issue so now going to have to go thru that painful process!

Got my replacement (finally ) from FT today and is working like a champ so far!

Love this mods look.

 

[AtmizrOpin]

Got my replacement (finally ) from FT today and is working like a champ so far!

Love this mods look.

"If you're happy and you know it, post a pic!
If you're happy and you know it, then your face will surely show it. If you're happy and you know it, post a pic!"

 

[ToolmanTexas]

"If you're happy and you know it, post a pic!
If you're happy and you know it, then your face will surely show it. If you're happy and you know it, post a pic!"

Hex yeah!

 

[sofarsogood]

Favor, would someone please measure the distance from the deck for the 510 connector to the top of the mod and report it here. My plan has been to use this mod with an rda but they are short. Now I find FT has atomizer heatshinks for a couple of bucks that can probably be used to raise the height of the rda until the drip tip is above the top of the mod.

Am I reading that may be the xvo clone is now coming with a board that's reliable for TC?

 

[AtmizrOpin]

Favor, would someone please measure the distance from the deck for the 510 connector to the top of the mod and report it here. My plan has been to use this mod with an rda but they are short. Now I find FT has atomizer heatshinks for a couple of bucks that can probably be used to raise the height of the rda until the drip tip is above the top of the mod.

Am I reading that may be the xvo clone is now coming with a board that's reliable for TC?

i got an inch and 3/8 from the top of the deck to the top of the mod. where you reading that a different board is coming in these? FT forum?

 

[sofarsogood]

i got an inch and 3/8 from the top of the deck to the top of the mod. where you reading that a different board is coming in these? FT forum?

I'm not reading about a different board but the more recent comments about this device seem more favorable. Can I get a reliable TC vape from this device?

In the mean time thanks for the respons about the height. My rda is .9" not counting the drip tip. The heat sinks appear to be near 1/2" so the combination should work. I use a wide straigh bore drip tip and drip directly into them so no need to remove the drip tip or the top cap. It sounds promising.

This interests me because I work on a shop floor where I'm often sitting or laying on the floor. Rda's are prone to leak if they get turned the wrong way. A solution to that is a belt scabard but the device needs to be short and the top cap protected from being pulled off. A scabard can't grip the mod to tight or it will press against the fire button. This mod looks like the perfect candidate for carrying on a belt. Then if it leaks it doesn't matter because it's not in my pocket.

If I come up with a scabard design that works I'll post a picture.

 

[AtmizrOpin]

I'm not reading about a different board but the more recent comments about this device seem more favorable. Can I get a reliable TC vape from this device?

In the mean time thanks for the respons about the height. My rda is .9" not counting the drip tip. The heat sinks appear to be near 1/2" so the combination should work. I use a wide straigh bore drip tip and drip directly into them so no need to remove the drip tip or the top cap. It sounds promising.

This interests me because I work on a shop floor where I'm often sitting or laying on the floor. Rda's are prone to leak if they get turned the wrong way. A solution to that is a belt scabard but the device needs to be short and the top cap protected from being pulled off. A scabard can't grip the mod to tight or it will press against the fire button. This mod looks like the perfect candidate for carrying on a belt. Then if it leaks it doesn't matter because it's not in my pocket.

If I come up with a scabard design that works I'll post a picture.

i have no idea how the stock board works. i received my clownstick in non working condition. i replaced the broken board in mine with an evolv dna 40. make sure if you buy a heatsink it's 22 mm in diameter. i think 23 is the max on the mod.

 

[jordan85]

Can someone save me digging through this thread please?? I was planning on ordering the fasttech clone. I just want to know:
1) Are most people ordering from fasttech? If not, where from? If so, which one since there are two different options for each color on fasttech?
2) Will the atty well be large enough to fit my Nautilus? About how far out would a Nautilus stick from the well?
3) Are owners generally happy with their purchase? Any reliability issues?

Thank you for any help.

 

[Katdarling]

jordan, I can't answer #1, as we got our former klowns from 3F, not FT.

#2 and #3.... The Nautilus will fit just fine, and tho I didn't measure the stick out-ness, here's visual:

#4 I'll leave to the others in this thread who have vastly more experience with them than I.


Good luck!

 

[jordan85]

I think I switched the numbers on you, but thanks for the speedy reply Kat. I am debating b/w this and the Athena Envy 22. I have a feeling the Athena is better quality, but I feel like the Xvostick will be more conducive to my stealth vape thinking man pose I do in my cube and I like the idea of squeezing rather than using my thumb to fire.