it uses the chassis as a ground(batt negative wire serves two purposes). no seperate ground wire for the 510.
xvostick clone any owners?
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it seems that the screen is slowly going stealth. i have a few old authentic dna20's, 30's and even the clone i took out of this thing. gonna try my hand at replacing the screen using one of those i mentioned...why not, right?? looks like some delicate solder work, but at this point i have nothing to lose.
i do love this mod 1000x more with the authentic board in it.
i do love this mod 1000x more with the authentic board in it.
Yes I have cracked one before and that's what they seem to do! The screen from the 30s and 20s are the same and I have successfully used a clone screen on a evolv board.
Yours is built now but I looked at one of your posted pictures, even the component layout is pretty similar to an evolv!
Is it me or is the evolv board slightly longer? I am not sure how much clearance there when the board is mounted into the chassis. I can see the Atty +/- and the switch pads are at the top (next to the 510) and the B+/- at the bottom where the bottom plate and screen mounts.
I am just wondering if you need to be careful of any pressure on the screen from the board when fitting the bottom plate.
Vape on!
I did the same thing during a transplant, it only gets worse. I also tried to take the old screen off of the old board, no luck. Turns out you need a hot iron with a broad tip. Good luck tho, post back with sum updates.
Here's the Waidea/Kangxin vapor flask clone DNA 40 board next to an authentic.
Here's the Waidea/Kangxin vapor flask clone DNA 40 board next to an authentic.
i think i just had the screen a little too close to the edge when i closed it up, catching on a raised portion as apposed to being in the proper recessed screen channel. the boards are nearly if not identical in size, maybe optical illusion that it looks longer (clone board is tilted up a slight tad). all pad placement is the same. components are def different as you can see...and an empty 4 pads where a possible onboard button should be on the clone board.
i should mention evolv took care of me when the creeping death took over the entirety of my screen. took about a day for the screen to die completely. sent the board out with the rma form on a monday got a whole new board back on saturday with the rails pre clipped so i didnt have to do it twice. i had to pay for postage thats it. just be honest in your ticket if your screen transplant doesnt work out. i ended up tearing the pads off of the ribbon.
you can see in the pic where I tore it from the pads
you can see in the pic where I tore it from the padsyeah, evolv has been WAY WAY WWWWAAAAY more than generous with the amount of rma's and customer service (appreciation) with me. from the dna12's all the way through dna40's, ive created so many mods and messed a bunch up on the journey and they've always hooked me up.
i feel like i actually need to give them a break. ill do my best to solder a screen otherwise just man up and buy a new board. i like the idea of having the atty lock feature/lastest firmware anyway. they deserve my money.
i feel like i actually need to give them a break. ill do my best to solder a screen otherwise just man up and buy a new board. i like the idea of having the atty lock feature/lastest firmware anyway. they deserve my money.
What are the differences with clone chip and authentic chip?
quality/smoothness and instant vape. the clone chips usually have a slight delay, aren't as efficient, don't regulate as smoothly, and an over-all sense of vape quality is missing. hard to explain unless you have an authentic to try. the clone chip, if you dont have an authentic to compare too, totally does the job. so don't feel like you NEED it, but if you get a chance, definitely try an authentic dna40 for comparison purposes. you'll see exactly what i mean.
Has anyone attempted to install an authentic Elvolv or Yihi chip in this sucker.
LOVE to see some tips when you install that Evolv board. I'm really thinkin' about doing it myself or maybe getting a good friend of mine to do it. Either way, any pitfalls you can identify would be appreciated muchly.Pretty much everything you posted (98%) is to do with the board after trying over 200 box mods all I can i conclude is the Chinese DNAs are crapola! All of them!
I personally had no intention of using the clone with the crap DNA
After the disastrous Uber mess of the evolv DNA40s a new board can be had for $50 so $90-100 all in and the time to do it.
To be fair this Crap DNA in the clone Xvo is not bad
Pretty much every clone I have ever seen needs work that is just a fact of life you pay $45 for a chinese clone Xvo and $225+shipping? for the original it is simply ridiculous to compare them or even expect you get something for nothing there is always a trade off.
One thing going for the clone is the self adjusting 510 I have a few adjustable 510s in mods and I rarely use them due to them being a PITA!
I actually bought a genuine Carlos Zero it was not good sold it bought a clone Zero and stuck an evolv in it job done saved $500
There is a little to much elitism in vaping I really couldn't give a crap about the brand only the quality if I can buy a clone and fix it up for 1/3 of price I am happy.
Someone offered me a genuine Xvo I had look and thought do I really want it for 4-5 times the price of my clone? See ya!
Vape on!
Wonder if the YiHi SX350J would fit if one were so inclined.
How does the 510 center pin come out on clone board?
got everything soldered and put together, tested with bottom plate off. worked perfect. hastily putting the bottom plate on to start using i crunched the screen. still works amazing, and can read most of the screen as it wasn't the worst screen crack ive seen, not ideal, but man the dna40 makes the difference.
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Just got the xvo clone from FC and it's become my favorite. Ordered three more, one black for me and two for a friend. Makes for a great carry around vaper since it's a good half of an atty shorter than the normal topper on a box.
well holy cow, i did it!!!! screen replaced, authentic dna40 back in all its glory. franken-chip. dna40 board with dna30 screen!!!!!!
theres a collar on the bottom of the 510 that unscrews and releases the 510 floating pin assembly (pin, oring, spring and collar). you can also unscrew the delrin isolator from the 510 shell. both ways work for separating pin from 510 shell
what did you use to take off the screen ribbon from the board and reinstalling it back on the dna. please elaborate with more than "a soldering iron" lol. i like details, makes it more interesting.well holy cow, i did it!!!! screen replaced, authentic dna40 back in all its glory. franken-chip. dna40 board with dna30 screen!!!!!!
well holy cow, i did it!!!! screen replaced, authentic dna40 back in all its glory. franken-chip. dna40 board with dna30 screen!!!!!!
Well done, Franken Modder! You certainly have talent AND patience!
great news my friend that you fix your screen, it was a pity not to be perfect with the original dna40.
i try also myself but i couldnt make it so i send it to evolv, now i wait also the xvostic from focalegic the dna board is waiting patiently.
i try also myself but i couldnt make it so i send it to evolv, now i wait also the xvostic from focalegic the dna board is waiting patiently.
used a large flat tip from my soldering kit like this:
1. heated up the iron to 350 c degrees
2. applied a good gob of rosin core solder to the tip
3. place solder tip in middle of ribbon cable where its soldered to board
4. lightly moving the tip around for 2-3 seconds while applying gentle pulling pressure on the screen ribbon it should come off easy. if not, apply a little more heat/solder.
i also found this before i tried (thanks @VapingBad!!). at first i tried to use the holes in the ribbon/board as alignment, but didnt have something stable enough to use as pins so i just eyeballed it and held in place while i did the first solder which then held it in place for me.
hope that helps @AtmizrOpin
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