YIHI SX550J G Class

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access0denied

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Ugggg, and I'm having issues with upgrading. Once I got the updated version of the SXi software (2.8.6.3) I got the upgrade to go. Got the famous 'please connect to computer and upgrade to new system' red box after the upgrade. Connect the cable, and the SXi software just sits there with 'SXi device detecting', and then an error from windows saying 'device upgrade and control GUI tool has stopped working'. Upgrade went fine once I got the updated SXi software. Anyone have any ideas? Thoughts?
 

access0denied

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Oct 9, 2015
350
931
46
Ugggg, and I'm having issues with upgrading. Once I got the updated version of the SXi software (2.8.6.3) I got the upgrade to go. Got the famous 'please connect to computer and upgrade to new system' red box after the upgrade. Connect the cable, and the SXi software just sits there with 'SXi device detecting', and then an error from windows saying 'device upgrade and control GUI tool has stopped working'. Upgrade went fine once I got the updated SXi software. Anyone have any ideas? Thoughts?

Nevermind, got it working. Such a great device, but can't say the same for the software.
 
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EyeCentric

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MadTemp

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Odd. Hold the joystick to the left and nothing. Any images out there of the new ui?
Added my mod pic with new interface it basically has WAY less details but you can see your wallpapers quite nicely and both are available in case you prefer the other also they fixed my pet peeve and con on the speedometer screen (2) using the "classic" interface the temperature is now dynamic but if you have the new interface active it still glitch freezes, if that happens just "switch" interface to classic and now it's real time dynamic.
Question, tcr for tungsten is not 0.0450 on Sx550j all I found in a week of search was a YouTube video with an ml class using that value (0.031(0)) but it doesn't feel completely right. Any help would be appreciated I don't feel like going back to the dna250.
 

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Nevermind, got it working. Such a great device, but can't say the same for the software.
New here, just picked up a g class urban camo. I get errors trying to upgrade via the app, errors on the pc. My mod shows version 7.600 via my app. Tried the hold left for 5 seconds and it worked, I must have that new UI even though I’m rocking 7.600??
 
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Read about 10-12 pages of this forums and love the activity and knowledge so I joined a few minutes ago.

Any tips for a new g class owner? I’ll play with the other threads if this is the wrong one. Having update issues via app, says “version not supported”. Tried the 8.x on a pc and it never worked. Outside of that it’s pretty cool. Learned about the left for 5 seconds trick and changing font colors, pretty neat.

I got the g class because from what I’ve read, yihi is one of the best for TC. Never really used TC but it sounds like you get some of the best flavor this way. This mod blows my mind as I am still a novice, built my first coils a month ago with the wire in my coil masters kit. Sounds like these are kanthal wires and learned it’s no good for TC. On page 52ish there was a post to by some SS316 for a really good price. My local shops want like $10 for 25’. Going to pick up some wire to try this TC stuff. On this mod, Jules, temp, tcr values, and all these other settings outside of watts, wow. is such think as a quick recap? Or is this in a different thread?

Do different juice have different sweet spots? If so is there an easy way to know outside of hitting at different temps?

I picked up a mason 30mm dump tank (most likely the last black dump tank ever built per vapergate :) ). Right now running dual kanthal, 4mm, 24 gage, 9 wrap coils around .25, hitting between 95 - 110 Watts. Still learning the wicking on this tank, some really good flavor but hoping to maximize that using TC. Any pointers upgrading to the ss316 wire on this setup for TC? Less wraps? Thinner gage? 3mm vs 4mm? Jules?
 

kiba

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Read about 10-12 pages of this forums and love the activity and knowledge so I joined a few minutes ago.

Any tips for a new g class owner? I’ll play with the other threads if this is the wrong one. Having update issues via app, says “version not supported”. Tried the 8.x on a pc and it never worked. Outside of that it’s pretty cool. Learned about the left for 5 seconds trick and changing font colors, pretty neat.

I got the g class because from what I’ve read, yihi is one of the best for TC. Never really used TC but it sounds like you get some of the best flavor this way. This mod blows my mind as I am still a novice, built my first coils a month ago with the wire in my coil masters kit. Sounds like these are kanthal wires and learned it’s no good for TC. On page 52ish there was a post to by some SS316 for a really good price. My local shops want like $10 for 25’. Going to pick up some wire to try this TC stuff. On this mod, Jules, temp, tcr values, and all these other settings outside of watts, wow. is such think as a quick recap? Or is this in a different thread?

Do different juice have different sweet spots? If so is there an easy way to know outside of hitting at different temps?

I picked up a mason 30mm dump tank (most likely the last black dump tank ever built per vapergate :) ). Right now running dual kanthal, 4mm, 24 gage, 9 wrap coils around .25, hitting between 95 - 110 Watts. Still learning the wicking on this tank, some really good flavor but hoping to maximize that using TC. Any pointers upgrading to the ss316 wire on this setup for TC? Less wraps? Thinner gage? 3mm vs 4mm? Jules?

idk if anyone in 2018 would say yihi has the "best" TC, it does however use an older, time tested method (I call it rattlesnake pwm) that they have proven works... you'll have to lock resistance, play around with tcr and do a dry cotton burn test @420F to get it dialed in. There should be many youtube videos detailing the process.

Also, (& this is somewhat important) you'll want to use 316L rather than 316. I know that the Chinese sell it & maybe some questionable vape shops but it has too much carbon for vaping. There are many different brands of 316L & they seem to all have different tcr's, I recommend steering clear of the Chinese brands though tbh I'm not a fan of it at all & I mainly use 430 SS or NiFe52. Both of those are going to be much better for a beginner bc they are dry-burnable, much more stable in TC & less prone to some slight little issue, wrap touching, center pin or post, or just looking at it wrong, throwing everything off.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 
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mjag

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idk if anyone in 2018 would say yihi has the "best" TC, it does however use an older, time tested method (I call it rattlesnake pwm) that they have proven works... you'll have to lock resistance, play around with tcr and do a dry cotton burn test @420F to get it dialed in. There should be many youtube videos detailing the process.

Also, (& this is somewhat important) you'll want to use 316L rather than 316. I know that the Chinese sell it & maybe some questionable vape shops but it has too much carbon for vaping. There are many different brands of 316L & they seem to all have different tcr's, I recommend steering clear of the Chinese brands though tbh I'm not a fan of it at all & I mainly use 430 SS or NiFe52. Both of those are going to be much better for a beginner bc they are dry-burnable, much more stable in TC & less prone to some slight little issue, wrap touching, center pin or post, or just looking at it wrong, throwing everything off.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

He said "One of the best" not the "best" for TC and rattlesnaking is only a problem if you have your joules set to high. Does anyone in 2018 still do dry cotton burn tests? I think everyone has abandoned that, who vapes dry cotton anyway? Please don't turn this into another DNA is superior post, let people enjoy what they have and used correctly Yihi does fine TC.

Good advice on using quality 316L but 430 and NiFe52 may be diving too far into the weeds for someone new.

To the person asking about TC if you know someone who vapes in TC it is best to get guidance from them. TC is great but takes patience and learning to get right, it is rare for someone to jump into it and get it right the first time.

With the G Class in TC just makes sure your joules are not too high to avoid rattlesnaking. I wish they used watts instead but that is another topic and not worth getting into. The easy way is to just think of it as watts, if you vape that tank at 75 watts in power then set your joules at 75 to start.

As far as setting you temp you will want it at 420 to 430F if you want to avoid burning your cotton when the tank goes dry. Despite what others tell you though the only right way to vape TC is what "You" like. I have a friend who loves to vape in TC at 500 watts, no cotton burning protection there but for him it is all about getting a consistent vape and he feels he gets the best flavor this way. That may not be right for me but that doesn't matter to him and it shouldn't.

For TC to be successful for you experiment and learn. It took me awhile until TC finally clicked but I don't use it exclusively. I find if I am vaping a tank that requires under 35 watts for TC to be less desirable. For me I love the consistency of the vape in TC and the added bonus of not burning my cotton when it goes dry. I also love TC with and RDA as I can vape my cotton dry as can be to easily switch flavors. I am generally in the 420 to 430F range and love it.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

kiba

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He said "One of the best" not the "best" for TC and rattlesnaking is only a problem if you have your joules set to high. Does anyone in 2018 still do dry cotton burn tests? I think everyone has abandoned that, who vapes dry cotton anyway? Please don't turn this into another DNA is superior post, let people enjoy what they have and used correctly Yihi does fine TC.

Good advice on using quality 316L but 430 and NiFe52 may be diving too far into the weeds for someone new.

To the person asking about TC if you know someone who vapes in TC it is best to get guidance from them. TC is great but takes patience and learning to get right, it is rare for someone to jump into it and get it right the first time.

With the G Class in TC just makes sure your joules are not too high to avoid rattlesnaking. I wish they used watts instead but that is another topic and not worth getting into. The easy way is to just think of it as watts, if you vape that tank at 75 watts in power then set your joules at 75 to start.

As far as setting you temp you will want it at 420 to 430F if you want to avoid burning your cotton when the tank goes dry. Despite what others tell you though the only right way to vape TC is what "You" like. I have a friend who loves to vape in TC at 500 watts, no cotton burning protection there but for him it is all about getting a consistent vape and he feels he gets the best flavor this way. That may not be right for me but that doesn't matter to him and it shouldn't.

For TC to be successful for you experiment and learn. It took me awhile until TC finally clicked but I don't use it exclusively. I find if I am vaping a tank that requires under 35 watts for TC to be less desirable. For me I love the consistency of the vape in TC and the added bonus of not burning my cotton when it goes dry. I also love TC with and RDA as I can vape my cotton dry as can be to easily switch flavors. I am generally in the 420 to 430F range and love it.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Typical... I didn't say anything untrue, bash or say anything bad about yihi, or even mention dna btw, I live with a yihi fan girl & have 2 550's (VA, not SX) that my gf uses all the time. I don't agree that anyone in 2018 would consider yihi's TC one of the best but it is a reliable, well known method that works... and yes, lots of people do the dry cotton burn test as it's the only for sure way to get a new wire dialed in right, as I said there's too many brands of the same wire types, all with different tcr's, in fact on UD 316L I have seen tcr differ between batches. That's bad advice, to the op, if you don't set it up properly & have an inconsistent vape, then you know what you need to do.

Also, 430 and nife's are the perfect wires for beginners bc, as I said they are dry-burnable and much more forgiving, you get higher accuracy, don't have to worry about a spot glowing if one leg is longer (that happens sometimes w/ yihi boards bc of the pwm) etc. and you can even get 430 that is 100% nickel-free. They are also both 100% usable in wattage mode as well, safer and imo superior to kanthal in every way.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 
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