I use rayon, rayon and... ...one other one. Oh yeah, rayon.
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Doing a bit of math the stuff is $1.37/ft. Wholesale. Assuming a fairly standard to low 50% markup and a conservative 2 in. Per wick you get around ¢35 per wick.
It's actually a commercial trademark product Ko Gen Do that's being referred to. A very consistent sandwich of combed and long fiber non-bleached high quality cotton, facial pads. About the most consistent organic wicking you may find imo. Introduced by ECF microcoil veteran super_X_drifter.
It can be used in five different ways…
• Cut directionally (along fiber grain) with both combed panels;
• Peeling away one panel to reduce linear density;
• Using the non-combed long fiber only;
• Using just the exterior fine combed cotton panels (outstanding); and,
• Cut against fiber grain and when stretched simulating Scottish Roll.
This allows a wide variety of media density and flow variations.
Good luck.
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So how is that different from muji or other Japanese organic cotton pad? It sounds identical.It's actually a commercial trademark product Ko Gen Do that's being referred to. A very consistent sandwich of combed and long fiber non-bleached high quality cotton, facial pads. About the most consistent organic wicking you may find imo. Introduced by ECF microcoil veteran super_X_drifter.
It can be used in four different ways…
• Cut directionally with both combed panels;
• Peeling away one panel to reduce linear density;
• Using the non-combed long fiber only; and,
• Using just the exterior fine combed cotton panels (outstanding).
The allows a wide variety of media density and flow variations.
Good luck.
The interior non-combed long grain is comparable to muji. I think KGD's combed cotton is unique. It flows exceedingly well. There are similar pads but 4 or 5 1/4-3/8 panels inside of 7/64" makes for a very rewarding predictable vape on a tank.
The combed cotton panels are highly directional. Standard long fiber is more readily permeable. Combined they offer very consistent flow. For smaller coils using one panel side will suffice. You can build something with a very fluffy permeable and vapor diffusive exterior and very directional interior fiber to keep it wet if you roll it right with not too much compression, for example. Lots of room for creative experimentation to fine tune performance for your fav juice.
Good luck.
I’m currently translating that one as “not much”, and if you do Scottish roll, nothing at all. Is this correct?The interior non-combed long grain is comparable to muji.
The combed cotton panels are highly directional. Standard long fiber is more readily permeable. Combined they offer very consistent flow. For smaller coils using one panel side will suffice. You can build something with a very fluffy permeable and vapor diffusive exterior and very directional interior fiber to keep it wet if you roll it right with not too much compression, for example. Lots of room for creative experimentation to fine tune performance for your fav juice.
Good luck.
The Scottish stretch of KGD cut against the grain will give you a more diffuse vape. I don't think it flows quite as well or cleanly as inserting it along it's length. You have to play around too with just how much to stretch KGD. I find it difficult to do at times but have used it on some tanks for a change up.
Dunno if this answers your question. It's useful. But most of the juices I enjoy are too complex to work well. I think rolls are more prone to gunking. The flow not as consistent as linear fibers. Perhaps because it's just harder to predict the density you might end up with. Some of us just have a knack for getting it. I've met a lot of peep's who just can't get cotton no how. Shrug. Is what is.
Good luck.
Never heard of the Scottish stretch before. My info has always been “never cut against the grain” with cotton” I always thought the Scottish roll was “ cut the piece a bit wider and remove both combed side bits”The Scottish stretch of KGD cut against the grain will give you a more diffuse vape. I don't think it flows quite as well or cleanly as inserting it along it's length. You have to play around too with just how much to stretch KGD. I find it difficult to do at times but have used it on some tanks for a change up.
Dunno if this answers your question. It's useful. But most of the juices I enjoy are too complex to work well. I think rolls are more prone to gunking. The flow not as consistent as linear fibers. Perhaps because it's just harder to predict the density you might end up with. Some of us just have a knack for getting it. I've met a lot of peep's who just can't get cotton no how. Shrug. Is what is.
Good luck.
I don't cut KGD against the grain but do Scottish roll the pad without the exterior skins. YT won't let me link from the phone but if just enter Scottish roll wick a couple videos will pop up.
Rayon is like the perfect boyfriend it never lets me down. It also shrinks when wet, lasts longer than cotton and almost never leaks.
Oh, I could go on. I got me like 3 inches of Ready wick to try but I never did because I have rayon, and rayon has never given me a reason to pack up my stuff and go home.;
Anna
Oh, I could go on. I got me like 3 inches of Ready wick to try but I never did because I have rayon, and rayon has never given me a reason to pack up my stuff and go home.;
Anna
Mine will. Interesting. I’d never seen the stretching and the leaving one side on. You can see the interior thing @MacTechVpr was talking about in the video. I think crazy beard works better than the current crazy teeth option for riptripper myself. This does look possibly more useful the version I was given to use. The KJD does seem thinner, and the “burnished” bit a little more distinct than the muji I’ve got. Gonna have to give this a shot. It could actually possibly solve a problem with a coil I was messing with
UPDATE: tried what is apparently the more official version with the muji. It does seem to be more trouble to stretch than the KJD. Mostly because it’s a good deal thicker I think. The final wick is a good deal fluffier than what I was doing for a similar compressed thickness. The back not removed side basically completely disappears on the muji but apparently not on the KJD. I’d never found the Scottish roll to be really worth the trouble before.
It really is only useful for higher vg blends imo.
Ready X Wick, 3mm & 4mm in any application I could use it in during my wire/ribbon coil building days. Pulled and rolled CottonBacon V2 otherwise. Backup would probably still be the Koh Gen Doh that I still have left over from years ago. Rayon and many others didn't get it done for me. Since I have only been running mesh RDA's for quite some time now the P&R CBV2 gets the nod.
None that I've noticed. But then most of my DIY liquids are mixed to be pretty intense to intense.
Nextel 3M (RxW) weave is incomparable in flow and flavor neutrality. To the naysayers and skeptics I'd have to insist…as it's about the most neutral food surface we use for cooking next to stainless. The downside is that due to it's very consistent dimensions and rigidity you are limited to diameters that best fit it or about 2.5 to 2.85mm. Installed loose in 7/64" (2.778mm) you need to prime it really well and insert a needle that really fills it's hollow core to ensure good uniform contact with the coil. As you wash and/or dry-burn too every few days to maintain a flavor and output consistency that is at least as good as when you first cooked it.
Probably have written about as much on this one subject as anything else if you care to search for my handle and the above terms. Ready to help if any of you hit a snag on…
Tensioned Micro Coils. The next step.
Spy what Ø's you run the 4mm on, coil type/s, pwr level. I'm low to high (95W t.m.c. parallels) and can handle a lot of density. DIY accordingly. Cool enough I can still enjoy the nuances <25W.
Good luck.
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