Z-Atty Universal Rebuild with #500 mesh

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Tanks

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This morning, I saw my Z-Atty Universal sitting in the corner with a popped coil and crusty wick (been like that for a month) and decided to clean it upo and rebuild it with some #500 mesh that I have a bunch of and have never tried. I threw the little tiny pre-rolled wicks aside and began oxidizing a piece of mesh approximately 1"x2.5" (I purposefully make my wicks too long then trim after making the coil).

For my coil I chose 32 gauge kanthal wire and went with a 4/3 wrap (I was shooting for as close to 1.5ohms as possible) and first try it came out to 1.5ohms. I'm really excited - last time I built a genesis rba it was my ihy with 400 mesh and 28 gauge kanthal with a 3/2 wrap and something just clicked; I figured it out. I can't wait for my Z2 DX-650 and Zenesis 2 CT to get here (I know, the CT has nothing to do with RBAs but I got the DX-650 for use with my Z-Atty Universal until I can order a Z2 Atty)!


The coil was almost perfect first try but there was one hot spot (you can see it in a couple pictures below - it's on the middle coil) but that was fixed with a couple pokes with a syringe lol

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Specifications: Z-Atty Universal (w/#500 SS mesh wick and 1.5ohm 32ga. Kanthal coil) on top of a Sigelei Telescopic ZMax v3 Flat-top (w/ AW IMR 18650 @ 10.0 watts)

EDIT: I forgot to mention; Since the Z-attys have such a small wick hole (because of the insulation) I rolled the wick somewhat cone-shaped. Two-thirds of the wick is rolled the same diameter to go thru the wick hole but the part that the coil wraps around has a slightly larger diameter (my theory is that if I provide more surface area for the coil to vaporize e-juice, it should produce more vapor/flavor. I haven't had the time to compare side-by-side and really test the theory but I know for sure that this wick works better than the pre-rolled wicks provided with the Z-Attys)
 
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Tanks

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Nice. I have a zau sitting here myself. Waiting for replacement glass...

Oh man, that sucks! I have only take my glass off one time so far and of course that one time I take it off I dropped it (on the carpet, luckily). I try not to take apart my ZAU cause I know the more I take it apart the greater chance I will break the glass lol
 

maf2k8

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I got my first Z-Atty pro about 2 weeks ago and it has since just sat there and i have been using me cheap AGA-T and RSST. I am not sure if it is because of the design or what but i just cant seem to get it to taste and produce as much vapor like i do my RSST and AGA-T.

I have used 28, 30 and 32 wire.. I have tried as low as 1.5 up to 3.0.. i have tried a micro coil build and a standard build like above and still i cannot seem to get it right? I have read on the forum that the Z-Atty and Provari can be really picky when it comes to wire and mesh and what works good on other RBA may not work so well on the ZAP.

I think i am going to dedicate a few hours or a day to just building this thing a few different ways and try and see what works best.

My guess ( and i am sure i am wrong ) is that due to the positive post being so tall, Thats what making it so difficult to work with? or? and i am sure its just me ( because people always complain how airy the ZAP is ) but i swear it seems like the hole needs to be drilled out larger? (I have the newest version)

The MAIN issue i really seem to be having is that when i fire my provari with the ZAP, It doesnt instantly heat up like my other RBAs do. I have to hold the button down for the max amount of time the provari allows, take 2-3 complete drags before the coil with heat up to its full power ( which i have tried anywhere from 3.8 volt on low ohm builds to almost 6 volts on 2.8 builds )

With my other 2 RBAs, the minute i hit the button that coil is at its full temperature and is either bright red ( if there is no juice in tank ) or pouring off clouds of vapor ( if tanked is filled ) and i am not sure why its doing this?
 
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NayrTrawe

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I got my first Z-Atty pro about 2 weeks ago and it has since just sat there and i have been using me cheap AGA-T and RSST. I am not sure if it is because of the design or what but i just cant seem to get it to taste and produce as much vapor like i do my RSST and AGA-T.

I have used 28, 30 and 32 wire.. I have tried as low as 1.5 up to 3.0.. i have tried a micro coil build and a standard build like above and still i cannot seem to get it right? I have read on the forum that the Z-Atty and Provari can be really picky when it comes to wire and mesh and what works good on other RBA may not work so well on the ZAP.

I think i am going to dedicate a few hours or a day to just building this thing a few different ways and try and see what works best.

My guess ( and i am sure i am wrong ) is that due to the positive post being so tall, Thats what making it so difficult to work with? or? and i am sure its just me ( because people always complain how airy the ZAP is ) but i swear it seems like the hole needs to be drilled out larger? (I have the newest version)

The MAIN issue i really seem to be having is that when i fire my provari with the ZAP, It doesnt instantly heat up like my other RBAs do. I have to hold the button down for the max amount of time the provari allows, take 2-3 complete drags before the coil with heat up to its full power ( which i have tried anywhere from 3.8 volt on low ohm builds to almost 6 volts on 2.8 builds )

With my other 2 RBAs, the minute i hit the button that coil is at its full temperature and is either bright red ( if there is no juice in tank ) or pouring off clouds of vapor ( if tanked is filled ) and i am not sure why its doing this?

I'm sorry to hear that you are having trouble with your ZAU. It is hard to figure because I have mine setup right now with a solid 500 mesh wick (insulator removed) and a 3/4 wrap of 28 gauge kanthal (.9 ohms) and it is working quite well on my Nemesis - the coil lights up immediately and pumps out a lot of vapor. That said, I do notice that when I put it on my Provari it doesn't hit as hard but that is just because it won't let me raise the voltage very high (3.4v, I think) given the resistance of my coil. Do you have a mech mod you can try it on, by chance?

When it comes to the draw I find mine to be just about as open as I would want. I don't have a way to measure it but when I compare it visually to my other Zen stuff (ZAP and Sidewinder) it is the biggest of the bunch.

I noticed you are in Chicago, which is where I live (Portage Park). If you aren't too far away I could take a look at it for you, although I am by no means an expert.
 

newq

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I have found with my zap the Only way to go is with stainless cable topped with a small piece of mesh around the cable and then finished off with some ribbon kanthal. My experiences with the zap were (ok) prior but with ribbon and cable, it is like a a whole different animal. I am usually not on the bleeding edge of things. I am usually lolly gagging slowly behind the crowd. I am the guy a few steps behind the crowd craning to see whats going on..... Anywho, if you are interested stormys vapor cellar has all the supplies.... here are a few more links to support what i am talking about. Trust me if you have been struggling or have just been somewhat disappointed in the genesis experience look here.....

JC West on the method -
Stainless Steel Cable and Ribbon Wire - YouTube

Tutorial on how to set it up -
Stainless Steel Rope Wick Tutorial - YouTube

One thing I do not believe the author notes in the video if that the diameter of stainless cable is dependant on the size of your wick hole. You want a cable that fits fairly close to your wick hole (the fit should be the same as if you were rolling a wick, just barely brushing the sides of the wick hole) Because of the number of atomizers and their varying wick holes it will vary from device to device.
 
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Zak Rabbit

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The zap was my first rba, followed closely by a cobra. Maybe I've been lucky, but I've had great results with almost everything I've tried. Currently I'm using the ceramic wick as provided in the latest build with a take on a dual coil setup (two lengths of kanthal wrapped side by side in parallel touching micro coil style). I've gone through so many glass tanks, a couple haven't even lasted 24hrs, that I finally went to the stainless tank. I'm on a provari mini and have no problems with heating "lag." I've been accused many times by my girlfriend of "cracking out" for hours at a time so maybe it's just the playing that has helped me. I hope you find your "sweet spot," just have fun with it!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2
 
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