Zenesis Informational/Help thread. Please Post questions and answers here.
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A word of warning here. According to Mike, if your SideWinder has the the aluminum bridge, do not put brass screws in the bridge as contact points. The brass screw immediately interacts with the aluminum in the bridge in a type of electrolysis that results in decreased voltage being passed through. You will see decreased performance.
This happened to mine and the gold screws w/gold bridge fixed my loss of voltage.
I know Zen recomends only AW IMR batteries, i have a AW ICR 3400 mah (flat top, protected), im just wondering if this battery could work with a cinis.
Thanks you.
Thanks you.
I bought the Altus as my first Zen. Actually the Gun Metal Altus. I planned on a Cinis, but it was out of stock in gun metal when I wanted to buy, and I had already waited long enough, so I got a GM Altus. I dont regret it at all, its a wonderful device. But, to be honest, Its not my IDEAL size. BUT, its not too big either. But Ill definitely be getting another zen with the small atty.. Ive just been putting it off. I could just get another atty, but, why not a whole hybrid, that way i can still use the Altus. Idk.. and there is my dillema lol.
ID say get the Cinis unless you know you want a big Atty tank. There is also no reason you cant underfill the Altus, though with any of my Hybrids, I pretty much never do that. You could though.
Thank you guys, i got the cinis from the classified im waiting for it to arrive
I been vaping with my zenesis mini for good time and actually im using 7X7 3/32 ss rope with 1 wrap of oxydized mesh at .8 with 28 kanthal, again i know is not recomended by zen and they are designed for 32 kanthal and that skinny roll mesh, honestly i didnt like the vapor production with the insulator 32g kanthal and skinny mesh, how many of you are vaping at sub ohm with the Zen mods ? my favorite atm is a think rolled mesh with 28 kanthal at .7 or .8 ohm.
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oh yeah i like it at .8 the vapor is thicker and is super fast, almost instantly after pressing the button
1.3 on a fatty or thin wick ? on a thin is like 3/2 wraps with 30ga ?
how long your battery last ?
Thank you guys, i got the cinis from the classified im waiting for it to arrive
I been vaping with my zenesis mini for good time and actually im using 7X7 3/32 ss rope with 1 wrap of oxydized mesh at .8 with 28 kanthal, again i know is not recomended by zen and they are designed for 32 kanthal and that skinny roll mesh, honestly i didnt like the vapor production with the insulator 32g kanthal and skinny mesh, how many of you are vaping at sub ohm with the Zen mods ? my favorite atm is a think rolled mesh with 28 kanthal at .7 or .8 ohm.
The original design was battery life = tank size.
The aim was to have that particular battery last just as long as the liquid in that particular size tank.
And in my experience, he got it pretty close. Fill the tank, change the battery.
Individual's choice in how often they change a battery, as a 18650 will generally last longer than a 18350.
It depends on a person's vaping style.
The material of the all the tanks are the same, so none should break any easier than another.
Most tank breakage will occur most often if the PV hits a surface on either end, causing the metal part of the PV to hit an end of the glass.
Also with the original design, the intention was that "anyone" could get a satisfying vape out of a Zen.
Hence, the insulator, thinner wick, battery = tank, etc. So that one could just wrap and vape without a lot of tinkering or thinking about it, regardless of a person's level of experience with rebuildables.
Add a wrap for cooler, drop a wrap for warmer. (If I recall correctly on the wraps.)
They are designed to be used a certain way, with certain materials/batteries for safety and warranty reasons.
Any warranty will most likely be void if it's not used with the recommendations.
That said.... I myself prefer no insulator and a fatter wick with usually 3 wraps, but I still only use 32g.
But... I have more experience now with rebuildables and am able to wrap a coil without an insulator and still avoid shorts.
(Part of the original reason behind the insulator)
I won't tell you not to vape sub ohm.
But I will tell you I believe it can be dangerous. Please know your PV. Know your battery. Use your multimeter. Be safe.
I have read where sub ohm drains the battery faster, and read where the battery lasts longer, so that question I can't answer.
Be safe.
Very nice info, thank you very much, ill give it a try to a 32 ga again, i know at .8 ohm im almost at 5.25amp at 4.2v so i think im not pushing it so much.
My 18350 is lasting 1 full tank i replace it at 3.6 - 3.7 v
I do know that 18350 and sub ohm is not good. if you are running sub ohm, at least use a higher battery.
For me, I do stick with the 32g. It's 3 wraps on a fatty or 4 wraps on a skinny for me my, that sounds dirty
For me, I do stick with the 32g. It's 3 wraps on a fatty or 4 wraps on a skinny for me
my, that sounds dirty
Count me in the group of people who:
-absolutely adore the Zenesis devices, and fully respect the amount of effort Mike puts forth making them as pristine and elegant as they are
-does not follow his suggested use of the device
Yes, he suggest 32 gauge, insulated wick hole with the pre rolled wicks, NO SUB OHM. And for the marketing purpose of "everyone can vape it", that is exactly what is needed. If you use 32 gauge wire, use 4 wraps as the base coil, and then use 3 for warm and 5 for cool, on the insulated small wick, you're never going to even approach anything dangerous. I wouldnt even bother with a meter at that point, and I think thats HIS point, is that genesis devices dont NEED to be complicated. Props to him for making a Genesis hybrid anyone could use one day 1.
However, setting up the device in that fashion simply does not provide a satisfying vape for me. Also, my Altus didn't come with an insulated wick hole. I had no idea it was supposed to be insulated until after I owned it for a while. I did get some insulation, but I dont use it.
So yeah, I use a fat wick, with 28gauge. 400mesh, non insulated wick hole, and I taper the wick for the end which will sit in the juice. Oxidize it a bit before putting it into the atty. Then I do a 4 wrap with 28g. I do also sometimes use 30g, but my most common setup is a fat/solid 400 mesh wick with 4 wraps of 28g.
Depending on how I wrap the coils, how much angle I put on them, it'll end up anywhere from .6 to .8ohms. Not surprisingly, its usually a .7ohm coil.
Is that how Mike suggests his PVs be used? No. But, thats how I get a satisfying vape from his device, and I will add, my Altus IS my favorite device.
Oh and for subohm on the 18350.. be careful. If its an AW IMR 18350, you've got a 6amp limit, which means .8ohms is the lowest you can go while still being within the limit of the battery. If its not an Aw IMR, idk the amp rating(and I wouldnt use it for subohm if its not an AW IMR).
-absolutely adore the Zenesis devices, and fully respect the amount of effort Mike puts forth making them as pristine and elegant as they are
-does not follow his suggested use of the device
Yes, he suggest 32 gauge, insulated wick hole with the pre rolled wicks, NO SUB OHM. And for the marketing purpose of "everyone can vape it", that is exactly what is needed. If you use 32 gauge wire, use 4 wraps as the base coil, and then use 3 for warm and 5 for cool, on the insulated small wick, you're never going to even approach anything dangerous. I wouldnt even bother with a meter at that point, and I think thats HIS point, is that genesis devices dont NEED to be complicated. Props to him for making a Genesis hybrid anyone could use one day 1.
However, setting up the device in that fashion simply does not provide a satisfying vape for me. Also, my Altus didn't come with an insulated wick hole. I had no idea it was supposed to be insulated until after I owned it for a while. I did get some insulation, but I dont use it.
So yeah, I use a fat wick, with 28gauge. 400mesh, non insulated wick hole, and I taper the wick for the end which will sit in the juice. Oxidize it a bit before putting it into the atty. Then I do a 4 wrap with 28g. I do also sometimes use 30g, but my most common setup is a fat/solid 400 mesh wick with 4 wraps of 28g.
Depending on how I wrap the coils, how much angle I put on them, it'll end up anywhere from .6 to .8ohms. Not surprisingly, its usually a .7ohm coil.
Is that how Mike suggests his PVs be used? No. But, thats how I get a satisfying vape from his device, and I will add, my Altus IS my favorite device.
Oh and for subohm on the 18350.. be careful. If its an AW IMR 18350, you've got a 6amp limit, which means .8ohms is the lowest you can go while still being within the limit of the battery. If its not an Aw IMR, idk the amp rating(and I wouldnt use it for subohm if its not an AW IMR).
So the new Zen switch...I got a saphire Brevis at VaperCon and tossed in a battery and noticed it would fire by just barely touching the button or even looking at it hard enough. So I got home, took the switch apart and noticed an extra spring, 4 instead of 2 washers and the little black cup was loose. Compared to my other Zen, things were different.
So I took out the extra spring, still need the 4 washers and now it fires like normal.
What is the purpose of the new switch? Since the Zen doesn't have a locking ring, it seems that the new switch firing so easily is kinda dangerous and not the intened design.
So I took out the extra spring, still need the 4 washers and now it fires like normal.
What is the purpose of the new switch? Since the Zen doesn't have a locking ring, it seems that the new switch firing so easily is kinda dangerous and not the intened design.
oh yeah i allways try to stay at .8 sometimes is .7 at .7 is 6amp and allways using ae imr 18350, my cinis will arrive in 2 days so ill be using a 18650, i dont see the point using a mech with higher omhs, a vv/vw works better with a 1.8+ ohm at higher volts
The way the new switch design was described, it sounds just like the current iHybrid switch, which is a bit of a hair trigger. Its one of the best things about the switch. Both of my IHys are like that, and it was one of the initial things I noticed.
However, while the Ihys dont have locking rings either, they also dont sit down directly on the switch like a Zen. Search for a picture of any of the newer LEs, the F3cta or the Pures, and you'll see how its done. Im having a hard time putting it into words for some reason, but it doesnt sit directly on the switch.
Yeah I see what you mean and if the Zen didn't sit directly on the firing button it'd be pretty sweet.
However the Zen does sit on the firing button and doesn't lock so this seems like a bad design or maybe I just got a faulty switch.
As I said, it works fine if I take out the extra spring and basically convert it back to the original switch, just wondering what the change was for and if I'm missing out on something. The old switch takes some pressure to fire so while it's not the most comfortable thing to press it doesn't go off accidentally.
However the Zen does sit on the firing button and doesn't lock so this seems like a bad design or maybe I just got a faulty switch.
As I said, it works fine if I take out the extra spring and basically convert it back to the original switch, just wondering what the change was for and if I'm missing out on something. The old switch takes some pressure to fire so while it's not the most comfortable thing to press it doesn't go off accidentally.
hello. I think the changes were instigated by folks not liking the "slide" (what some folks call the rattle). I read that one of the link system developers decided to go that way. I assume Mike decided to give it a try to in order to please customers. I do know that Jason said the link2 manufacturer's system would soon be carried at ENS.
that's my guess.
that's my guess.
I just sat down and put the switch back to OEM with both springs and the 4 washers. The contact screw was sticking up just a bit over the delrin cup so sure enough it fired as soon as it was set down.
Took 1 washer out and so far it's not firing when set down now, there's still a bit of battery rattle but i'm fine with that. It looks like maybe there was just one too many washers to begin with.
I'm still trying to see if I like the button push better or worse than the old style. It's weird, it doesn't seem to need as much pressure but it's...eh I can't explain it right now. I'm not in love with the feeling, I don't hate it but I'm not sure I like it better than the old style yet either.
Took 1 washer out and so far it's not firing when set down now, there's still a bit of battery rattle but i'm fine with that. It looks like maybe there was just one too many washers to begin with.
I'm still trying to see if I like the button push better or worse than the old style. It's weird, it doesn't seem to need as much pressure but it's...eh I can't explain it right now. I'm not in love with the feeling, I don't hate it but I'm not sure I like it better than the old style yet either.
kinda cool that you can use it both ways. I have two with the new switch. one is being a PITA so I may try what you suggested and revert it to the old way. I suspect the delrin is a tad too long. The other new switch works great
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