Discussion in 'The GG' started by imeothanasis, Jul 10, 2016.
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a video from a user
and one more video, showing what Zr can do on your wick. Simply nothing!!
GG Zirconium wire is springy by mistake. I will sell it at half the price because of this. But you can make your coils very easy with a coil maker
The Zirconium springs that I received from the GG store and FMS ( I assume they are the same ones)
I have had a much better vaping experience with the Z coils than the SS ones. They vape more like Titanium than anything else I can describe.
Keep them coming imeo. no complaints here.....
I'm almost a month (in three days) with the same zirconium spring in my X1.
I change cotton every week and brush my spring every week with a toothbrush and only water ( I vape only VG)
It's still in excellent condition!!! Not the slightest rubbish is left over on it, tha taste is the same, only the colour is black.
Also I vape another one with flavour but I do only 1-2ml's per day so I'll tell you my results in a year
Now I have a lot of spools of different wires like nichrome, kanthal, ss, ti, and different sizes too but I dont know what to do with them since now I only want to use zirconium and of course Ti for Proteus.
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Has anyone tried the zirconium springs with temperature control? (TCR 0.0044)
Today I tried it, but I had to use a TCR of stainless steel 317 (0.00088), that value is far away of the TCR value for the zirconium.
Could it be that by mistake I reveived SS springs instead zirconium ones?
The resistance I am getting with those springs is of around 0.55 to 0.65 ohms, depending on how I install the spring.
Is there any other way to check whether they are of zirconium?
its Zr Ariel. But the springomizer needs other values to work that the real ones. For example, I use 0,0012 temp corfficient to make it work. But if you want to be sure that its Zr, just measure it. Zr is made with a 0,4mm wire and I think that I never made SS springs at that diameter
The springs have a diameter of 0.40 mm, so it confirms they are Zr springs.
By the way, I found and interesting PDF document, hosted by NIST (National Institute of Standards and Technology), it's titled:
"Electrical Resistivity of Vanadium and Zirconium"
P.D Desai, H.M. James, and C. Y. Ho
To be honest I do not understand much , but it looks very interesting (Zr information is at page 21).
www . nist . gov/data/PDFfiles/jpcrd259.pdf
(remove the spaces on the above link)
Owning and loving a Dani extreme V2 from Dicodes, the Rolls-Royce of the mods in my eyes, I also wanted to own the Rolls-Royce of tanks and bought the X1 Springomizer.
Set the Dani to 25W and 170° to start with and made a Temp Calibration. Out came the best taste I experienced in my six years of vaping from the first moment.
BUT then I looked at the display and this showed crazy values from -600° to several thousand degrees plus.
I played around with the settings, changed the coefficient between 105 (SS setting) up to 150, nothing changed.
Tried it with my Cuboid box set to Temp SS316 and it jumped to power mode immediately.
I asked the people of Dicodes what I did wrong, and they replied that I did nothing wrong.
The springomizer just would not be suitable for temperature controlled vaping due to unstable connection of the spring. (expanding and moving when heated)
I did not try it with a Zirconium spring yet, as neither I nor the Dicodes Guy knew the correct coefficient of it.
Do you have any ideas as to springomizer and TC vaping?
Thank you for your nice words Martin!
I have said a lot of times that springomizer is not always suitable to temp control devices. But there is a trick that you can apply to dicodes and to any other temp control device to have the right vaping and the right temps on screen. Set the temp to 280 Celsius degrees and try several temp coefficients until you see that you dont have a burned taste. Then keep this setting for springomizer.
Example that will work: Set the temp coefficient to 13 for Zirconium and for SS please give me some time to tell you
There is an easier way for most TC mods. Dicodes for example TC works way down to 100C. So to make sure everything is working as intended soak your wick with water. When you activate your device your onscreen temperature on the Dicodes should reach 100C and stop there, if it is working correctly.
As for the behaviour you are describing in the Dicodes it usually happens when there is a short. Make sure the turns in the coil are spaced and they aren't touching each other.
Martin, you have to know something else. Springomizer is the only atomizer that doesnt have resistance legs, so you will never have a burn taste, something that is common on other constructions even if they have bolts and they are stable on tc. With the right value of temp coefficient on a temp control device, springomizer will give you the best taste ever
I just ordered Zirconium wire from German GG seller - really looking forward to trying it out.
Does anybody now the resistivity (Ohms/m) of that .35mm Zirconium wire that's being sold now?
From the linked video I gather that 8 wraps around 2mm (which would expand to 2.5mm) would give around .7 Ohms?
If that's correct that would be my first build attempt once the wire gets here.
Got my Zirconium wire today (that was fast, thx Arne!) and had a fun afternoon playing around with it.
Man, that's one springy and stiff wire, stinged myself alot. But by the taste I already get on a fresh build it's probably worth it. We'll see
First things first, needed to learn to build that beasty stuff:
As I said before I was aiming for something like .7 Ohm and "tried" with 8 wraps@2mm: well, it was my first attempt, I stinged myself a lot and I wanted to get to vape it, so I miscounted, only 7 wraps and a hell of an ugly build:
Turned out to be .5 Ohm, but given the crappy build, it vaped really well; regulated at 25W that is.
Since I'm all mech now (who'd guessed that, thx Imeo ) it was a bit too hot for me. Plus, .5 Ohm is below my personal safety threshhold, so I rebuilt.
This time 8 wraps (counted twice) @2.5mm; the build got better, I "learnt" that if you pull real hard and wrap the other end around your finger while building the coil and keep pulling all the time (and ignore the pain), one can get a decent coil out of this wire.
However it's still springy, so it extended to something probably around >3mm, resistance was spot on @.75Ohm though.
So I gave it a try
Too large a diameter for me, faar too much wire to be heated. Took 1sec to ramp it up from cold and my Tile got real hot when chain vaped.
Still a good vape, but not for me as well.
So back to my initial plan, 8wraps@2mm - after I learnt to ignore the pain and build a proper coil, it looks like this:
and it vapes
perfectly so at .65Ohms
and it tastes exceptionally well right out of the box. No "breaking in" time.
A springy little beast, but worth the effort so far.
Built two of my Tiles like that now; one's on a GG4S, the other on a Cyb.
Chain-vapable, reponsive, not too hot...
I'll get back to you after my first rewick (which could take some time )
Happy vaper here for now.
Thanks for the report! maybe a coilmaker is worth a try?
Naw, prefer doing it the Chuck Norris way
But actually, you're right, never thought there's an actual need for this stuff
great news woita!!
This springy Zr has to be used with a coil master, thats why I was insisting on that here and on fb too. I am wondering how the hell you managed to make a so nice coil by hand! I am really, really impressed!!!
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