Just Thought that I would share a pic of a Mech Squonk Mod That I made a few years ago built on the MOSFET safety system. It rocks a Squonkalishious! It is pictured with a small atty. It's just a tiny frankenskull. BF Squonk and can run single or dual coil but obviously not super low in the ohm department. However that just means that the batteries last longer...

Perhaps y'all can help. I'm an old vaper, in every sense and you guys seem to be in the know. So many devices over the years I can't remember. Can't even remember the last time I bought juice, been in the kitchen making my own for years and years. So much has changed from back in the day, now things seem to be hitting the fan hard. Have bought from FT years ago, now gone! Crazy world.

A couple 3 or 4 years ago got myself a Lost Vape Centaurus DNA 250C and discovered what all the ruckus was about. After popping on an OFRF or a wotofo nexmesh pro (couldn't find coils for the OFRF or something so bought a tank closest to what I really enjoyed) coupled w/ss316 running TC@50/60W/350-400Degrees I was completely blown away by the taste, smoothness, satisfaction - by far, the bomb in every way. Did I mention what a great combo I had? TC is where it's at in my book (it's the dna).

After I went thru the 1/2 dozen or so pre-made coils IN A YEAR, they were nowhere to be found short of slo boat from chynah. Back to kenthal. YUCK! Then I noticed the top end of the mod loose. Popped it apart and found the plastic holding the 510 connector was crumbling apart, perhaps from me popping the lid of my tank to fill, can't be fixed, no support. Very careful now WITH A NEW Thelema dna2000 widget. I really miss the old battery door. First world problems, LOL.

Been buying much from mostly element vape for some time. What's with stuff OOS everywhere? OK, just like nic/nic river, the hammer is falling, time to bust out an old RTA or 5 and buy 500 feet of ss316 wire, take another stab at building. No wait, those things were a pain, why did I not like them? Can't remember, been too long.

Tanks and coils for the last year+ with nothing matching what I once had. Ni80, ss, mesh this that, more crazy, make it stop! I'm MTL, maybe I enjoyed RDL, DTL tank thingie or some 3 letter acronym I haven't been keeping up with and not even knowing what I had. The industry (or what's left of it) is clear as mud. Retailers no nothing any longer it seems.

I have a Brunhilde MTL in my cart, not a very conservative looking device and not really sure it's even what I'm hunting for (thanks all for the thread). Something tells me I need to buy a couple spare mods and stuff for the long haul. First world problems nothing a grand or two couldn't fix <sigh>.

What to do, what to do. Got any ideas?

Hi all,

I've been vaping since 2017 and i know there is still much to learn and share. I used some kayfuns (19 and 21 lite), sirens (2 and 4), bskrs (1,5 and 3), penodat, dwarv 16 and so on. Also used several dtl rta and rbas but i liked the mtl more. Atm im using penodat v2 and bishop rta with vapor storm eco mod. Planning to get a sbs mod and maybe kayfun x or fev 4.5 or sputnik or...

Anyway just wanted to say hello!

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I found my old vaping stuff and thought I'd see if there may be any value in it?

There's a couple Reos. Along with a bunch of tank related pieces, a pila charger, some batteries, old atomizers, cartomizers, a new rebuildable atty.

I stopped vaping quite a few years ago, so I'm sure there wouldn't be a lot interest in this stuff. But, I'd hate to just toss it when someone out there may be interested in it.

Looking to buy a Lost Vape Furyan squonk mod in great/ like new condition.
Ultem & Brass only please.

ConUs.
Payment via PayPal

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E-cigarettes-forum
Hi,

Long time on/off vaper here, and got recently hit by a bout of the shynitis. So many nice things, reduced prices, sometimes actually ‘cheap cheap' likes 10$ for a mod, and without really realizing, I had spent at least a couple of hundreds on new mods, a new atomizer and more stuff that I absolutely do not need. But maybe there’s stuff in there that I actually like, and if it makes me vague t rather je and every missed smoke is a win.

Possibly I won’t even unbox all of them…just kidding, I will wanna know if they work , at least.



But that’s not why I’m writing: some of my favorite mods for the last years have been the Teslacigs mods, particularly the plastic ones with the funny colors (like the WYE series. I was still not infected by shynitis back then, so I completely missed the WYE II /86 Watts. Sooner or later there will be used ones for a decent price, I hope ). I also really like their software, for my purposes (TC vaper) , it wor of as much as Arctic Fox, but they seem to have a flaw that always bugged me. So I said to myself that as a now retired coder, I should be able to maybe help make the Teslacigs models compatible with Arctic Fox, or otherwise maybe fix what I don’t like. I figured the reason that they aren’t yet, is certainly because they’re not (enough) popular. But maybe I’m wrong, and they’re just hard to work with.



Either way, I opened a GitHub account as well as an NFE team account, where I left an introductory message just like this one here. And my main (and for now only) question was, how do I get started? To which somebody told me to take the box apart and identify its MCU. So I answered that the board contained no number, names or any other ‘inscriptions’, just about a dozen of black ‘chips’, at least on the side where the chips are. Unfortunately i got no further answers, and a search didn’t help me either, so I’m giving it a try here. Does anybody know how I identify my MCU? If I remove the board complete, should there be any identifying letters and numbers? Or could it be that nobody has done anything about Teslacig mods because their MCU is unidentifiable??





And the dumbest question of them all…what exactly stands MCU for?



I know I’ll probably have to find these answers on the NFE team forum , but I can always try…



So, anyone, maybe?

Nice person and a Super deal. Thanks, ZoeBoy

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Ok so I am currently using the geekvape z series coils. I use a .4 coil but my issue is that the chart on geekvape's website has the listed recommended wattage at 50 to 60 watts. But the coils themselves say 60 to 70 watts. So now I am confused as to were I should set the wattage on my mod. Which range would yall go with the one on website or the one on the coils themselves?

Producer : USA

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Authentic timesvape heavy hitter - matte black in color just got today and opened don't really like it. $67 shipped