Let's keep the Smok RPM 25w Alive! ✌

Just for clarification, these are drop-in prebuilt coils. Rebuilding a coil entails winding a coil from wire, screwing it onto an atomizer deck, and manually feeding cotton through it for wicking.
Hi Smacuser, thanks for your response.
I'd say deck rebuild involves a bit more creativity & expertise, but rebuilding a commercialized coil is not very far off from it I feel. It involves opening and cleaning the coil body, choosing the wire (mesh or coiled wire), and installing it with wicking (choosing the cotton type, density, etc).
I guess at the end of the day it mostly boils down to semantics & common/standardized definitions, isn't it?
For myself, having done both, I'd say rebuilding a commercial coil is a bit more simplified, but it's still a rebuild nonetheless.
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Let's keep the Smok RPM 25w Alive! ✌

China is without a doubt the world's dominant brand and sales leader, it is and will always be.
That said, there are Chinese brands that try to step outside their comfort zone, it's just a bit of a rarity these days.

A hobby vapor is someone who has vaping as a hobby, pods & disposables don't bring anything new in terms of experience to the user.
Mixing your own juice and building your own coils makes you a hobby vapor, so technically you are a hobby vapor with what you say.
Thanks Tor. And what do you think those companies could do to better cater to the hobby vapors (that they are not doing enough)?

So is olivenation any good?

I just bought stuff forgetting I now lack a band saw to cut the roll into strips. Argh. I am SO tired of add… while decent lengths of scientific filter paper are crazy expensive (I usually hang em on my wall) there is apparently a BUNN industrial coffee maker for which whole rolls are sold. Still pricey, but the best deal on Amazon. I was intending to cut it into six. (You need length but not width) Maybe I can borrow the use of a band saw…
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Let's keep the Smok RPM 25w Alive! ✌

China is without a doubt the world's dominant brand and sales leader, it is and will always be.
That said, there are Chinese brands that try to step outside their comfort zone, it's just a bit of a rarity these days.

A hobby vapor is someone who has vaping as a hobby, pods & disposables don't bring anything new in terms of experience to the user.
Mixing your own juice and building your own coils makes you a hobby vapor, so technically you are a hobby vapor with what you say.

Let's keep the Smok RPM 25w Alive! ✌

Thanks for your comment Tor R.
Isn't China still the biggest in terms of world brands though?
And what other brands are you recommending that are not China-based? (Genuine curiosity)
And what do you mean by "Hobby vapors"?
I make my own e-liquids and rebuild my own coils (LP1, GTX and PnP). So am I a 'hobby vapor' according to your definition?

So is olivenation any good?

The flavoring used in e liquids must be artificial, not natural. If they are natural flavorings, you should not use them for e liquids as heating and inhaling natural flavoring can create toxic byproduct. I recommend staying on the safe side and not using any flavoring unproven safety for inhalation.
There is almost no actual difference between natural and artificial flavorings. It should really say “naturally sourced”. “natural flavoring” is not what people often think it is. It exists because of a loophole in US FDA regulations. It doesn’t really matter if a given chemical is from the bark of an endangered rainforest tree or coal (going with blue cheese natural flavoring here).

Actual fruit is not really possible with flavorings. An Apple flavoring is a few of the chemicals in an Apple that make an Apple taste most like an Apple. If you were to use all few thousand, you’d have, well, an Apple.

Some of them will be oils (which are bad) and some of them are volatile Esther’s which cannot be contained. There are often things *like* those volatile esthers though that CAN be contained, and those are sometimes used instead. Oils do not dissolve in water but they can form emulsions. Which why I say water soluble and no emulsions.

The last requirement is FDA baking safe. That means it has been tested to 450f and PG and VG gasify at less than 250f so as long as you don’t dry hit the wick will never get that hot. It will boil the liquid instead. Maintaining that temp till the liquid is gone. This is why aluminum pots on the stove don’t melt until all the water is boiled away. Then they do. Cotton wicks flashburn below that anyway.

Sounds to me like a “buy” water extracts generally leave oils alone. Needs to be tested though. I’ll need to buy more filter paper. Thick but not so heavy weigh cast ( so with a deckle which is the fuzzy edge of cast paper) Watercolor paper is basically filter paper. The “lb.” Of paper is how many pounds a ream (144 sheets) of that paper weigh. Then the construction method is next. So “80lb bond” is bonded paper 144 sheets of which weighs 80lb. I forget how big a standard sheet is, but it’s a lot bigger than a4. Iirc a4 is octo, which means you get 8 sheets of a4 from a standard sheet. It’s been a long time though. Heavyweight watercolor paper is usually around 100lb.

For like the 80th Time I wish I could get non bond toilet paper without perforations. Bond doesn’t work for paper chromatography.

There is a standard filter paper for paper chromatography. I don’t need it though because I’m just looking for “presence of” percentages don’t matter. Toilet paper would work fine. Except for the perforations.
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