Rayon wick, better flow, flavor, saturation and Nic Hit!

[etherealink]

I'm glad you brought this up. I washed and rebuilt my dripper today, and figured I would give spaced coils a try. My issue is that, when I tighten the screws down on my RDA, or make any adjustments whatsoever, the coils want to lose that nice cylindrical shape; one end in particular wants to raise above the rest. I fear this will create a hotspot, since that last quarter wrap probably won't be tight against the rayon, once everything settles.

So, for anyone building spaced coils in an RBA/RDA: How do you keep the nice cylindrical shape, with no part of the coil too far from where the rayon will be? I spaced my wrap out on the screwdriver and tightened down with the screwdriver in as well. Is it possible or beneficial to install the tight microcoil, then space out the wraps once the leads are secured?

I only installed this coil a few minutes ago, and it's done fine so far. I'm just afraid that it's a little too wonky to continue working alright.

When you mount your coils the first time, mount them just slightly inside towards the posts and tighten them as much as possible.

Leave your tails on the coils outside the opposite ends of the posts.

Put your screwdriver/ mandrel back in the coil and pull the coil out and up in the same motion. If its wrapped under tension to begin with it will snap back to its original place. You may need to adjust slightly to center and adjust for airflow after mounting... that's the fun part.

Good luck and vape on

 

[bsoplinger]

... It's actually supposed to snow here tonight.

So a friendly reminder to those in areas with dropping temps..

Where are you that its snowing already? I always pray for fall to last a long time here while repeating my mantra "you don't have to shovel rain."

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2

 

[MacTechVpr]

I'm glad you brought this up. I washed and rebuilt my dripper today, and ...figured I would give spaced coils a try. My issue is that, when I tighten the screws down on my RDA, or make any adjustments whatsoever, the coils want to lose that nice cylindrical shape; one end in particular wants to raise above the rest. I fear this will create a hotspot, since that last quarter wrap probably won't be tight against the rayon, once everything settles.

So, for anyone building spaced coils in an RBA/RDA: How do you keep the nice cylindrical shape, with no part of the coil too far from where the rayon will be? I spaced my wrap out on the screwdriver and tightened down with the screwdriver in as well. Is it possible or beneficial to install the tight microcoil, then space out the wraps once the leads are secured?

I only installed this coil a few minutes ago, and it's done fine so far. I'm just afraid that it's a little too wonky to continue working alright.

When you mount your coils the first time, mount them just slightly inside towards the posts and tighten them as much as possible.

Leave your tails on the coils outside the opposite ends of the posts.

Put your screwdriver/mandrel back in the coil and pull the coil out and up in the same motion. If its wrapped under tension to begin with it will snap back to its original place. You may need to adjust slightly to center and adjust for airflow after mounting... that's the fun part.

Good luck and vape on

E you nailed it. What veterans here on ECF all know and understand. You have to use a mandrel of some kind to localize any kind of build. The heart of Metalhed's Protank Cotton localization thread which really captured the essence of rebuilding a clearomizer.

For a year I've been laboring to popularize the idea of a proper electrical vaporizing circuit. Why? Because I know that building one will result in greater efficiency. And efficiency means greater vapor production and therefore flavor. Essential to that was optimizing to the max super_X_drifter's incredible observations on contact coils and introducing the science of strain to induce adhesion. That's where we're at in the discussion. Such a coil benefits by the most uniform alumina oxide bonding between turns when it is pulsed. The most perfect cohesion of the wind that mother nature can provide.

Spaced winds physically can never produce the same efficiency as a tensioned microcoil. Technically impossible. It's mathematically inconsistent with reality. But further as readeuler points out, whether sloppily hand wound or precision screw or mandrel wound, it's extremely difficult if not impossible to maintain a spaced winds shape integrity (geometry). The winds skew, they torque, they unwind…they absorb unbalanced tension from one end or the other; and, there it is…hot spot, thermal short!

So we're at three strikes fella's. Why are we headed back where we started?

The clearest advantage of a tensioned contact coil is simply that it's geometry can be carefully but rather easily maintained. And you cannot do this with a spaced wind at all.

There are two ways to localize a coil…its space or separation and direction from the coil (usually perpendicular) and the orientation of the coil's axis (up, down, diagonal, not parallel to posts, etc.). Your method E is time old. You need a mandrel to support the coil's geometry (of the same size or you change it's i.d.) to pull away from the posts and tension the leads. This too by the way can spoil the wind and pull end turns as readeuler described, along with torquing of the screws. That's fine, but to adjust the latter, the coil axis, you can't do a thing but pull on it or push on the leads both of which can result in coil spaghetti. Wonderful. Great wind. /sarc on

With a contact tension wind you have an element that's practically a solid. You can put pressure on it without mangling it provided the force is not greater than used to wind or tension it. So carefully.

The simple answer what simply can't be done with a spaced coil (unless you wan't to go dental specialist for a half hour or more) is to PUSH ON IT!

Yes ladies and gentlemen the space age technology of a plain ol' instrument screwdriver allows one to buttress and apply pressure to one end of the coil. Against which we do what? We PULL! We tension and position, or bend curve, etc. the lead at that end to our hearts content. Yikes, nothing could be simpler Holmes. That means we can pretty much set the coil orientation in spacing from posts and in the axis orientation all using the same instrument.

For reals, buttress that end of the coil and if it's been tensioned you can work your creative magic on the leads and on its position.

And here's the third strike. If you end up overpowering a tension wind and thrash it, you have a new one that's perfect in 30 seconds.

That's why we need a real electrical circuit, not spaghetti. We want to end up with something that just works.

Great point E. Thank you.

Good luck all. Have at it.

 

[atroph]

E you nailed it. What veterans here on ECF all know and understand. You have to use a mandrel of some kind to localize any kind of build. The heart of Metalhed's Protank Cotton localization thread which really captured the essence of rebuilding a clearomizer.

For a year I've been laboring to popularize the idea of a proper electrical vaporizing circuit. Why? Because I know that building one will result in greater efficiency. And efficiency means greater vapor production and therefore flavor. Essential to that was optimizing to the max super_X_drifter's incredible observations on contact coils and introducing the science of strain to induce adhesion. That's where we're at in the discussion. Such a coil benefits by the most uniform alumina oxide bonding between turns when it is pulsed. The most perfect cohesion of the wind that mother nature can provide.

Spaced winds physically can never produce the same efficiency as a tensioned microcoil. Technically impossible. It's mathematically inconsistent with reality. But further as readeuler points out, whether sloppily hand wound or precision screw or mandrel wound, it's extremely difficult if not impossible to maintain a spaced winds shape integrity (geometry). The winds skew, they torque, they unwind…they absorb unbalanced tension from one end or the other; and, there it is…hot spot, thermal short!

So we're at three strikes fella's. Why are we headed back where we started?

The clearest advantage of a tensioned contact coil is simply that it's geometry can be carefully but rather easily maintained. And you cannot do this with a space wind at all.

There are two ways to localize a coil…its space or separation and direction from the coil (usually perpendicular) and the orientation of the coil's axis (up, down, diagonal, not parallel to posts, etc.). Your method E is time old. You need a mandrel to support the coil's geometry (of the same size or you change it's i.d.) to pull away from the posts and tension the leads. This too by the way can spoil the wind and pull end turns as readeuler described, along with torquing of the screws. That's fine, but to adjust the latter, the coil axis, you can't do a thing but pull on it or push on the leads both of which can result in coil spaghetti. Wonderful. Great wind. /sarc on

With a contact tension wind you have an element that's practically a solid. You can put pressure on it without mangling it provided the force is not greater than used to wind or tension it. So carefully.

The simple answer what simply can't be done with a spaced coil (unless you wan't to go dental specialist for a half hour or more) is to PUSH ON IT!

Yes ladies and gentlemen the space age technology of a plain ol' instrument screwdriver allows one to buttress and apply pressure to one end of the coil. Against which we do what? We PULL! We tension and position, or bend curve, etc. the lead at that end to our hearts content. Yikes, nothing could be simpler Holmes. That means we can pretty much set the coil orientation in spacing from posts and in the axis orientation all using the same instrument.

For reals, buttress that end of the coil and if it's been tensioned you can work your creative magic on the leads and on its position.

And here's the third strike. If you end up overpowering a tension wind and thrash it, you have a new one that's perfect in 30 seconds.

That's why we need a real electrical circuit, not spaghetti. We want to end up with something that just works.

Great point E. Thank you.

Good luck all. Have at it.

You missed the point as to why we are spacing coils. Sure they are more efficient. The heat is concentrated in the center of the wrapped tube. This is fine if you are vaping unflavored VG. Throw in some PG or flavorings like chocolate or cola and it becomes a problem. For most standard builds there just isn't proper cooling to the coil with juice and air. The resultant negative effect is coil fouling at an accelerated rate. Spaced coils are less efficient and this is known, but they are easier to cool as the heat isn't concentrated at the center. You can get a longer lasting build with a spaced coil with equal amount of vapor production if you up the power or use thinner wire.

 

[crg31953]

This may be slightly OT, but since I have been following this thread it seems an excellent place to ask!

I would like your recommendations on a small easily cleaned dripper. The only reason I say relatively easily cleaned is based on somewhat frequent flavor changes.

This will be my first dripper and I know a lot of people here run them.

Your advice would be appreciated!

Vape On My Friends!

 

[PaulBHC]

This may be slightly OT, but since I have been following this thread it seems an excellent place to ask!

I would like your recommendations on a small easily cleaned dripper. The only reason I say relatively easily cleaned is based on somewhat frequent flavor changes.

This will be my first dripper and I know a lot of people here run them.

Your advice would be appreciated!

Vape On My Friends!

I'm old and all that goes with that. I have a small A6 dripper with thumbscrews. I wind a coil, stick the legs through the post holes, tighten the screws, install a wick, done. To clean, I either vape some plain vg until the old taste is gone or pop the cap, toss the wick, rinse in water and allow to dry.

More important to you is size, posts, screws, number of coils, depth of well, and so on.

My little dripper doesn't hold many drops but the small size is like a reduced chamber in a larger dripper. Good vapor and flavor but I tire of redripping.

Magma and clones seem real popular right now because of well size and air flow design.

 

[Rossum]

A counter-point to MacTechVpr's theory: Where should vapor form? In the wick or on the coil? I believe it should primarily on the coil, not in the wick, and the wick's primary job is to flow juice to the coil and keep the entire coil wet. However, if adjacent coils are adhering to each other, there's no way for juice to flow between them and get to the outside surface of the coil. Wetted wire surface area and a coil that heats evenly is what we're after. My preferred method of achieving that lately has coils made of simple two-strand twisted wire. I can wind them using some tension, I can squeeze these together as much as I like when I pulse them to get a nice geometry, but they intrinsically have more surface area than a single strand does, and twists give small gaps through which juice can flow from the wet wick in contact with inside of the coil to the outside, thus keeping outside of the the coil wetter than it could possibly stay with single strands that are adhering to each other.

What we need is a high-speed infra-red camera inside an atty to see what's really going on there. Although what we see when we pulse a dry coil is interesting, it doesn't show us how the juice, the heat, and the airflow all interact in an actual atty.

 

[FloridaSam]

THANK YOU!!!
I bought a copper Nemisis clone and a V2 Orchid clone on Monday. I'm new to vaping and had the shop do the build for me the first time. The did a .25 dual coil with cotton. Unvapable. Burnt hits immediately. Terrible.

Being somewhat handy with small thing (I work on watches and small electronics) I was confident in my ability to fix this before I tossed it in the garbage.

Second build .45 with cotton. Better. But after 3-4 toots terrible burned taste. I opened up the Orchid and the cotton on one coil was burnt. There's a Sally's down the street so I bought a 3 lb box of Cellu Cotton. First attempt I used too much. Second attempt perfection. I've been chain vaping the tank and nothing but perfect flavor and vapor. (Durasmoke Green Apple 6%)

I'm by no means skilled at this. Heck this was my first wick attempt ever. I'm very sold on this. Couldn't be easier and no leaks.

Thanks for saving my mod.

 

[AMDTrucking]

Spaced coils. Yes!

 

[awsum140]

I, personally, can't see how a micro coil is intrinsically better. The surface area of a coil is the same for any given coil. If the turns are actually touching some of that surface area is reduced. Heat becomes concentrated at the center of the coil due to the lack of cooling effect there. Just my two cents based on observation.

On another note, I am in a co-op and while waiting for the items a discussion started about older vaping equipment. I've only been vaping for about 2.5 years and seem to have missed some of the "more fun" stuff. Like blue poly foam for cartos and wicks, using coffee stirrers for air tubes or using poly tubing for air tubes in tanks of one sort or another.

It struck me that all this was done without a lot of thought for leaching chemicals or what happened if things started getting a little hot. Burned polycarbonate doesn't sound like a good thing to inhale. All this was done by many folks, apparently, and some of them are objecting to rayon, cellulose. Go figure.

 

[PaulBHC]

@crg31953 I forgot to add

I have a couple of RSST and AGA T-2 genesis atomizers. Gennies are basically drippers with a tank on the bottom. Originally they are supposed to use rolled mesh screen as a wick. After having a dripper for a while, I looked for something that didn't have to be dripped into all the time. Gennies with rayon are it.

 

[JeremyR]

Sally's rayon or any rayon is not lyocell. That is tencel. I don't see rayon filtering any flavoring out into its fibers. When it's vaped dry it turns back to white. The flavor difference is because the coil is locally flooded. I always put some tension on the wrap it's just common sense. It's not a step back it's a step forward. I don't care to have big blobs of gunk on my coil faster. I don't care for a hot spot in the middle. A spaced coil provides a more even heat and more efficient quality in its term of use.

I used 'micro coils' for a long time since I started rebuilding almost 2 years ago. And now I'm saying I get a better vaping experience overall using a spaced coil. A micro coil is really easier than using a spaced coil. It's the same thing found in an old cartomizer..

You have a mass of metal that retains heat longer resulting in gunking up. Where does it glow easiest, right in the middle. That is no good to me..

Where do you see contact coils used in heating equipment. It it were so efficient you think big manufactures would use it. Heating coils, Car bulbs, and diesel glow plugs, ect. don't use touching coils.

Sure you can wind some tension on a spaced coil. Sure tension causes the wire to slightly stretch and hold its form, but its a small effect. 1.4 ohms is 1.4 ohms. How are you gaining efficiency.

I don't seem to get a benefit from 'micro coils' anymore. The only benefit is it's easier to work with. But harder in the long run when it constantly gunks up and you have to dry burn.

No one has ever said anything about vape longevity with touching coils. No one has ever said they get less gunking with touching coils. The coil itself is sturdier because it's pressed together becoming a tube instead of a coil.

I'm pretty sure most of us would rather vape on - than be plagued with gunked coils in a fraction of the time. If you read around most of them are dry burning and rewicking every other day. Because the flavor is gunked.

 

[readeuler]

Thank you, etherealink, MacTechVpr, Rossum, and everyone with input.

I will try tensioning by pulling away from the posts, ethereal, that's clearly a good idea. We'll see if I'm skilled enough to reduce some of the sloppiness.

MacTech, while I may not understand the physics and terminology terribly well, you're speaking my language (I appreciate that you've given this a lot of thought). Contact coils are a doll to work with, I just wanted to try something new. I'm not an experienced builder, but I've got a few dozen microcoils under my belt at this point. Variety is the spice of life, right?

So, Rossum, you've inspired me to give twisted wire a try for the first time. I have a good amount of 32 gauge laying around from evod/protank heads that's been gathering dust. Twisted 32 may even be light enough to support dual coils at 15 watts, which is another plus.

Lots of food for thought, thanks again everyone!

 

[etherealink]

A counter-point to MacTechVpr's theory: Where should vapor form? In the wick or on the coil? I believe it should primarily on the coil, not in the wick, and the wick's primary job is to flow juice to the coil and keep the entire coil wet. However, if adjacent coils are adhering to each other, there's no way for juice to flow between them and get to the outside surface of the coil. Wetted wire surface area and a coil that heats evenly is what we're after. My preferred method of achieving that lately has coils made of simple two-strand twisted wire. I can wind them using some tension, I can squeeze these together as much as I like when I pulse them to get a nice geometry, but they intrinsically have more surface area than a single strand does, and twists give small gaps through which juice can flow from the wet wick in contact with inside of the coil to the outside, thus keeping outside of the the coil wetter than it could possibly stay with single strands that are adhering to each other.

What we need is a high-speed infra-red camera inside an atty to see what's really going on there. Although what we see when we pulse a dry coil is interesting, it doesn't show us how the juice, the heat, and the airflow all interact in an actual atty.

Rossum, this a fire pic of a recent build with a very highly tensioned coil.

For obvious reasons (its pushing into the pulse range of the battery) I won't describe how its built, short of the method to tension it.

When you wrap your coil, keep as much tension on the wire as you can, and slightly over-rotate past where the legs should end up. Leave the coil on whatever you wrapped it on while you mount it and keep it slightly inside (closer to the posts) than you want it to be.

Once you install all the coils and tighten them down, reinsert the screwdriver and pull the coil away from the posts and slightly up to get it where you want it. If some just right, nothing will move when you pull the screwdriver back out.

If you still want spaced coils, gently space them at this time and adapt those spaces after you wick as well.

As far as what vapor does when its produced, here's a quick video:

http://instagram.com/p/tvJfk4IBt9/

 

[MacTechVpr]

You missed the point as to why we are spacing coils. Sure they are more efficient. The heat is concentrated in the center of the wrapped tube. This is fine if you are vaping unflavored VG. Throw in some PG or flavorings like chocolate or cola and it becomes a problem. For most standard builds there just isn't proper cooling to the coil with juice and air. The resultant negative effect is coil fouling at an accelerated rate. Spaced coils are less efficient and this is known, but they are easier to cool as the heat isn't concentrated at the center. You can get a longer lasting build with a spaced coil with equal amount of vapor production if you up the power or use thinner wire.

Atroph I haven't missed the point. Trust me. I ask the question why?

If you acknowledge that a spaced wind operates at a lesser efficiency and assuming the same characteristics of a fouling eliquid you are stating a logical fact. Yes, the wind will foul at a decelerated rate; as it is also vaporizing at a decelerated rate.

Consequently, not getting the same output less eliquid processing (less throughput) less gunking.

Let's apply that to an auto. We drive at 45mph vs. 60mph the gas filter traps less. At saturation load, you have inefficient fuel delivery. Same principle.

Or is it that you're saying that because you are vaporizing less, you are therefore getting more? That you're somehow getting more of the eliquid that you like but less somehow of the eliquid that you don't. You've omitted the gunk.

If so please explain how, why? I would like to know the mechanism.

Serious question. It's an issue I've been examining studiously for a year?

Good luck.

 

[Jerms]

As someone who vapes dirty NETs that gunk up coils fairly quickly, I can notice within just a couple mL if a specific set-up gets gunked up quicker or slower. I can say from what I've experienced in the last week that I can push a lot more juice through a spaced micro coil than a contact micro. A very dirty NET that will turn a contact coil unvapeable in under 2 mL can go 4+ mL in a spaced coil.

I don't know the specifics of why, others can figure that out, just that the difference in gunking is very noticeable. I may be giving up some efficiency, I don't know and don't see how that matters. What's important to me is the quality of vape, and whether spaced or contact the vape is almost the same. I do notice a subtle difference in the vape, but nothing to the experience that I can say one is better or worse than the other.

I think most would be unable to tell the difference between spaced and contact micros if vaped blindly. The subtle difference that is there may be enough for some people to have a preference, so it's worth for someone to experiment to see if they do. When it comes to speed of gunking though, I believe most will discover they can push a lot more juice through a spaced coil before the vape quality suffers.

 

[Chris Cox]

I just wanted to post in this thread to thank the OP. I've been using rayon for a few weeks, and honestly it's sorta revolutionized my whole experience of vaping I've tried a bunch of other wick materials and nothing comes close. I'm not wasting any more $ on wicking materials - got a 3lb box of rayon from Sally, and I'm set for life.

 

[SlickWilly]

I just wanted to post in this thread to thank the OP. I've been using rayon for a few weeks, and honestly it's sorta revolutionized my whole experience of vaping I've tried a bunch of other wick materials and nothing comes close. I'm not wasting any more $ on wicking materials - got a 3lb box of rayon from Sally, and I'm set for life.

Welcome to the world of rayon vaping Chris, now enjoy the ride!

Jeremy is the man!

I'd have to say rayon has been the biggest and best improvement to my vaping since I started three years ago.

 

[MacTechVpr]

A counter-point to MacTechVpr's theory: Where should vapor form? In the wick or on the coil? I believe it should primarily on the coil, not in the wick, and the wick's primary job is to flow juice to the coil and keep the entire coil wet. However, if adjacent coils are adhering to each other, there's no way for juice to flow between them and get to the outside surface of the coil. Wetted wire surface area and a coil that heats evenly is what we're after. My preferred method of achieving that lately has coils made of simple two-strand twisted wire. I can wind them using some tension, I can squeeze these together as much as I like when I pulse them to get a nice geometry, but they intrinsically have more surface area than a single strand does, and twists give small gaps through which juice can flow from the wet wick in contact with inside of the coil to the outside, thus keeping outside of the the coil wetter than it could possibly stay with single strands that are adhering to each other.

What we need is a high-speed infra-red camera inside an atty to see what's really going on there. Although what we see when we pulse a dry coil is interesting, it doesn't show us how the juice, the heat, and the airflow all interact in an actual atty.

Yes Ros and thanks for this opportunity. The straightforward answer is that vaporization is happening inside the coil, inside the wick (at just the wicks surface) and within the vaporization zone (adequate temp for escape velocity Ros, reduced evap point) of the eliquid in the compressed space of a micro and properly compressed wick install. The wire surface is not where the vaporization zone begins.

You bring up many points to consider. Do microcoils gunk more? I've posed an observation above. I'm interested to see the answer. I think the evaluation of it has very little to do with the configuration but with the energy output. The question I think can be answered logically — you cannot gunk any more (or any less) than relative to the energy applied. If there is less residue accumulating at the zone of vaporization then some mechanism must be deterring the eliquid composite that comprises that accumulation. That disposes of the first issue. We have that answer if we agree that there can't be any more or less gunk if the same eliquid is exposed to the same power level. If we get the composite of all molecule types and sizes, if they are all likewise subject to equivalent vaporization heat levels, then that which gunks must gunk. If not, what is the mechanism suppressing it? That's implied by the contra-micro argument, that the parts that should don't somehow (at all or less).

Ros, twisted-pair has been about the most common wind I've done for my own use over the past 16 months. So what? Somewhat less efficiency as you can't bond them in a true state of adhesion; yet, still overcome by t/p's performance in density and taste advantage. I've been a fan of t/p because of the flavor inherent in the greater contact surface. But there is quite a bit of diffusion as a percentage with so much of the wire also heating air due to its increased overall diameter. Six months testing tension winds for consumer builds in the background, six months exploring them publicly but the past two months I've found other config's that outproduce twisted with notably more durability (less gunk).

To answer one of your points, there's been an urban legend floated that microcoils are a Kanthal pipe, a solid piece of metal. This has already been debunked on super_X's thread but it needs to be repeated. Who said that microcoils are totally fused? I've never claimed it. I don't think Russ has. In fact I've argued as others who've looked at my assertions that t.m.c.'s (tensioned micro coils) have numerous imperfections. And if it didn't it wouldn't matter. What happens to a liquid under vacuum pressure? It's evaporation point drops precipitously when exposed to heat and particularly the high levels that can be concentrated in an efficient coil. Far greater pressure/energy levels than can be refrained by the tenuous bonding of an alumina oxide layer with a thickness of micrometers. So there is substantial vaporization exiting a t.m.c. along its length at high pressure a feature which in fact deters the stationary accumulation we're discussing here.

The more efficient the adhesion of the wind at pulsing I reason the more likelihood of those micro fissures being large and visible (smaller imperfections in the wire are better bonded by wire thinning closing gaps). And I have observed that really good winds have exploding geysers of vapor. As well powerful vapor bursts which I've posted here on ECF. All indications of extreme high pressure levels indicating high vaporization efficiency. They don't tend to form if you use a loose wick not optimized by compression. So yeah, increasing vacuum pressure drops the vaporization temp, increases a t.m.c.'s efficiency substantially. More than just the physical attributes associated with it's compact shape, joules/cm.

And there I've said it with vapor pressure reduction we have vapor being produced in the wick exploding out through the coil…as vented vapor typically does. I''d be surprised if there weren't numerous ridiculously obvious examples right here on ECF.

So I would ask if we're going to be persuaded to set aside an observable and calculable efficiency…what is it exactly we're gaining, and why?

I keep askin' the question.

Good luck.

 

[atroph]

Atroph I haven't missed the point. Trust me. I ask the question why?

If you acknowledge that a spaced wind operates at a lesser efficiency and assuming the same characteristics of a fouling eliquid you are stating a logical fact. Yes, the wind will foul at a decelerated rate; as it is also vaporizing at a decelerated rate.

Consequently, not getting the same output less eliquid processing (less throughput) less gunking.

Let's apply that to an auto. We drive at 45mph vs. 60mph the gas filter traps less. At saturation load, you have inefficient fuel delivery. Same principle.

Or is it that you're saying that because you are vaporizing less, you are therefore getting more? That you're somehow getting more of the eliquid that you like but less somehow of the eliquid that you don't. You've omitted the gunk.

If so please explain how, why? I would like to know the mechanism.

Serious question. It's an issue I've been examining studiously for a year?

Good luck.

No the issue is that you are funneling juice into a tube with a hot center. If the juice can't flow to that hot center (think cnc machine type of dripping) then the juice will reach its point of burning. It is this burnt crap that fouls the coils. The reason it does this is because the wick, juice, and airflow cannot cool the coil fast enough to prevent it. Wrap some 30 ga about 10 wraps. Do a loose coil and then do a tight one. Once the coils are built dry burn them on your rig. While dry burning them blow on them. Which one will entirely stop glowing. The loose one will. This is because the heat is more spread out across the wick allowing air and juice to cool it within the range of not burning the juice.

I think it is more about heat concentration. Imagine placing a piece of tin foil in a 500 deg oven. Does the tin reach 500 deg? Of course it does. Can you reach in the oven blow on the tin and pull it out with your bare hands within a fraction of a second? Yes.

Now take that same piece of tin. Roll it into a tight ball. Does it reach 500 deg? Yes. Can you blow on it and pull it out with your bare hands? No.

I am sure there is some fancy thermodynamics term for this (Fourier's Law or Newton's Law of Cooling), but I am an electrical type and will not speak out of my scope other than my direct observations.

Physics says that the heat should be the same no matter tight or spaced, but concentrating it at the center of a tight coil chokes off the ability of the juice and airflow to effectively maintain the temperature and the juice burns as a result.

Not instigating a sword fight here. Just simple observations.

I think we are beyond heating at this point and are more concerned about cooling and longevity of the builds. Not all of us are 100% VG cloud chasers so different things will work better for different people. IMO a spaced coil lasts longer and vapes just as good without the side effects of harsh hits due to PG or flavoring getting overheated. The only time I have had a tight coil work for me is when I vaped pure 100% USP vg with nothing else. I could turn the power up to max have have no ill effects with the exception of fogging a room quite quickly.